derek guy Profile picture
Apr 10, 2024 8 tweets 4 min read Read on X
I will tell you what I notice. 🧵 Image
Most people would not describe Trump as someone who wears slim-fit clothes. But here, we can see his trousers are quite slim in relationship to his body. You can tell because the hem barely covers the opening of his shoes.
Image
Image
If you're a heavier man who wears a suit with slim-fit trousers, you end up breaking the top and bottom halves into distinct blocks. Notice how much the jacket hangs over the trousers. There's a lot of empty space between the jacket's front edge and his pants.
Image
Image
It's a mistake to think that wearing slim-fit clothes makes you look slimmer. Or that everyone has to conform to some trend. A better approach is to dress for your body type. Look at the relationship between Jackie Gleason's jacket and pants.
Image
Image
The wider trousers here are not the most fashionable, but they are the most flattering (for him). By minimizing the jacket's overhang and reducing the empty space between its front edge and the trousers, you get a streamlined silhouette from top to bottom.
Image
Image
We see the same effect here on France’s President Hollande and Japan’s Emperor Akihito. Hollande's trousers are too slim for his jacket. As a result, he looks like an egg on sticks. Compare his silhouette to Akihito, where the jacket and pants flow and form a harmonious whole. Image
Such advice is not limited to men with heavier figures. Daniel Craig often wears suits that also don't flow. The top and bottom halves often form distinct blocks. This is partly because his trousers are too slim and his jackets are too short.
Image
Image
When you see beautifully dressed men, consider how the top and bottom halves form a silhouette. They don't always need to flow (in some casual styles, breaking up these parts can be intentional and part of an aesthetic). But in tailoring, it's often best when there is flow.
Image
Image

• • •

Missing some Tweet in this thread? You can try to force a refresh
 

Keep Current with derek guy

derek guy Profile picture

Stay in touch and get notified when new unrolls are available from this author!

Read all threads

This Thread may be Removed Anytime!

PDF

Twitter may remove this content at anytime! Save it as PDF for later use!

Try unrolling a thread yourself!

how to unroll video
  1. Follow @ThreadReaderApp to mention us!

  2. From a Twitter thread mention us with a keyword "unroll"
@threadreaderapp unroll

Practice here first or read more on our help page!

More from @dieworkwear

Jul 26
Don't know anything about Andy Burnham, but I recognize the room in the middle photo. That's Private White VC.

Let me tell you about them. 🧵
When British economist Alfred Marshall looked out of his window in the late-19th century, he saw a country full of clothing and textile production. In the Scottish Border towns up north, weavers and knitters were making tweeds and cashmere out of local and native wools. Image
Image
In the London district known as Spitalfields, the descendants of French refugees toiled over looms to make some of the world’s finest silks. Once woven, these materials were often sent to Macclesfield, where they were printed by hand. Image
Image
Read 20 tweets
Jul 26
Style becomes a lot more interesting when you stop thinking of clothes as a way to look younger, hotter, or richer. Or as a way to gain status and advance your career.

Let me show you. 🧵
The internet is full of people who post photos like these and tell you where you can buy the clothes shown. Often, this requires subscribing to their Substack or clicking their affiliate link, so they earn some money on the backend. Image
Image
This can be fine, but sometimes there's a not-so-subtle suggestion that you can transform your life by purchasing something. You can be happier, younger, richer, and more handsome by wearing a polo. In reality, you will continue being who you are and living your regular life. Image
Image
Read 20 tweets
Jul 12
I will tell you how to find a tailor. 🧵
For the purposes of this thread, I will assume you mean an alterations tailor, which is someone who alters clothes you bought from a store. I will not cover bespoke tailors, who are people that make clothes from scratch. That kind of discussion goes beyond what I can cover here. Image
Like any trade, the clothing business can involve a bit of insider baseball. To find a good tailor, call a few stores that sell high-end clothes. For men, these will be suits that retail for $3,000 and up. For women, it will be things like suits, eveningwear, and bridal gowns. Image
Read 16 tweets
Jul 2
Stephen Miller's suit here shows one of the biggest problems with men's tailoring today. 🧵
I should first emphasize this thread is not meant to body shame. I mean that sincerely. Few men are built like Adonis, so when shopping for clothes, most will have their own fit challenges, including muscular figures. This thread is only meant to highlight a tailoring issue.
Let's first do an experiment. Which suit do you think looks better?

Left or right? Image
Image
Read 18 tweets
Jul 1
Here's an explanation of when you can wear a suit jacket on its own. 🧵
But first, let's play a game. Here are two men wearing gray tailored jackets with blue pants. Which outfit looks better to you? Ignore physical attributes of the people underneath and focus on the outfits. Then reply with your answer. Image
Image
If you said the right looks better, then we have the same taste. In this case, we can again go back to history to understand our views.

As I've said before, our notions in traditional men's tailoring largely derive from Britain, where suits and sport coats were invented.
Read 16 tweets
Jun 28
If you're looking for fabrics that you can wear in the summer, it's useful to consider three things: weight, weave, and fiber. If you only pay attention to one of these dimensions (say, linen), you will miss the bigger picture.

Let me show you. 🧵
If you're shopping for shirts, then some of the better summer materials include linen, seersucker, madras, and very lightweight, open weave cottons. In the photo below, you can see a swatch of voile, which is a featherweight 2/3oz cotton that's so open, it's almost sheer. Image
You can see here why most men don't wear it. Without a jacket, the material can almost be indecent (although it's more forgiving in non-white colors like light blue). For this reason, some tailors double up the front, like you see on the right, but this limits the breathability. Image
Image
Image
Read 18 tweets

Did Thread Reader help you today?

Support us! We are indie developers!


This site is made by just two indie developers on a laptop doing marketing, support and development! Read more about the story.

Become a Premium Member ($3/month or $30/year) and get exclusive features!

Become Premium

Don't want to be a Premium member but still want to support us?

Make a small donation by buying us coffee ($5) or help with server cost ($10)

Donate via Paypal

Or Donate anonymously using crypto!

Ethereum

0xfe58350B80634f60Fa6Dc149a72b4DFbc17D341E copy

Bitcoin

3ATGMxNzCUFzxpMCHL5sWSt4DVtS8UqXpi copy

Thank you for your support!

Follow Us!

:(