Thread by @dieworkwear

OK, I'll comment. 🧵

https://twitter.com/THR/status/1779320315098906931

The jacket is pretty good in that there's minimal waist pulling, and the collar hugs his neck even as he moves his arms. The main issue is that the sleeves are too slim, causing them to catch on his arms. Compare this to the second pic, where sleeves drape cleanly.

If I were in charge of his fitting, I would also shorten both the shirt and jacket sleeves so they don't look like they're enveloping his hand. The slimness of his jacket sleeve is also causing the French cuff to push out against the jacket. Not ideal

Compare that to these sleeves, which are

1. Fuller
2. Drape cleaner
3. At the correct length, such that they only show a sliver of shirt cuff and end around the person's wrist bone.

Tailor the shirt first, then adjust the jacket according to the shirt.

The main issue I see with a lot of Elon's tailored outfits is that he likes to wear cowboy boots, which is fine as a concept. But his trousers are often too slim for the boots. This results in the tops (the boot's shaft) pushing out against the trouser legs.

We see this happening here. The tops of the cowboy boots are pushing against the trouser legs, which is then causing the trousers to crumple. This is not very elegant.

Compare the above to Bush's black tie + cowboy boot combination. The fuller trousers drape more cleanly across the tops of the boots. This looks more elegant.

Cowboy boots have a very high vamp (the part of the shoe that covers the top of your foot). In other words, the boots slope up very high. If your trousers are too slim or have not been properly tailored, they will catch and crumple. See the fullness of GWB's trousers here:

If Elon wants to wear slim trousers with boots, he should get side-zips. Cowboy boots need to have wide tops. Otherwise, you would not be able to slip your foot in. However, side zips can be opened and then closed via the zipper, making the shaft slimmer. These are from Tecovas:

In fact, in the 1970s, Frank Sinatra had dozens of side-zips made for him by various bespoke shoemakers based in California and London. He wore these on stage with dinner suits (aka tuxedos) and dark worsted suits while singing. They also had a higher heel.

In this video, you can see a young Bill Bird at Peens, a tree-making operation once owned by John Lobb (the bespoke firm in London, not the ready-made firm in Paris). Bird is failing to be discreet about their famous customer as he shows off Sinatra’s lasts.

However, Elon should wear fuller trousers. Doing so will create a more streamlined silhouette, going from his jacket to his trousers. This will give the impression of a more harmonious whole rather than breaking the top and bottom halves into distinct blocks.

Black tie is fundamentally party clothes, so they can be fun. You can wear tartan velvet dinner jackets with Prince Albert slippers or Belgian loafers if you want. But a governing principle should be elegance. Widening sleeves and pants here will help in this regard.