Someone from @piersmorgan's staff asked if I would like to come onto Pier's show, Piers Morgan Uncensored, to talk about the state of his attire. Since he invited feedback, I thought I'd do a thread comparing his style to menswear icon Kermit the Frog. 🧵
Let's again start with the basics.
The core of any outfit is fit and silhouette. Pier's suit jackets often have lapels that buckle away from his chest and a collar that floats from his neck. This suggests his jackets may be too small.
No such issues for Kermit the Frog. His clothes hang beautifully and smoothly while still giving a distinctive, flattering silhouette.
Piers knows that he looks best in a tailored jacket, so he wears them to social functions. However, he relies too much on formal tailoring, such as dark worsted suits in sober colors.
This puts him in a somewhat awkward position of trying to find ways to dress them down. He knows that people at the event may not be wearing suits, but he also doesn't know what else to wear. So he ditches the tie or wears a suit jacket with jeans to look "kinda casual."
A dark worsted suit without a tie is like the night sky without stars. Kermit the Frog understands this, so he always makes sure he has something—sheen, color, or pattern—between his jacket's front edges. This adds a bit of visual interest to what's a very sober ensemble.
Kermit also knows that if he doesn't want to wear a tie, he should opt for a more casual top. He often reaches for a charcoal turtleneck. Since turtlenecks aren't meant to be worn with ties, he doesn't look like he's missing something.
Since Piers seemingly only has dark worsted suits in colors such as black, navy, or grey, he often looks like he's just come out of a business meeting, even when he's at social functions.
No such issue for Kermit the Frog. He has a wider variety of options, such as tweeds, checked sport coats, and casual suits made from materials like linen and available in colors like cream. This allows him to look put together without seeming corporate.
For a more casual look, Piers often wears these plain, smooth Merino sweaters in solid colors. These sweaters can sometimes be fine under a tailored jacket, but on their own, they lack something.
No such issue for Kermit the Frog. He knows that if you're going to wear a sweater on its own, the knit needs something like a pattern or texture to make it interesting. Good options include spongey Shetlands, chunky Arans, Fair Isles, and ribbed Shaker knits.
The biggest issue with Piers' casualwear is that it has no direction. It's sort of a mishmash of generic clothes: polos and button-up shirts with pre-washed blue jeans or flat-front beige chinos, sometimes layered with a plain Merino sweater.
When he layers, the outfits lack cultural meaning or coherency (e.g., topcoat with polo and sweatpants). When he tries to look a bit cooler, he thinks only in terms of single items (e.g., the black dress shirts popular with divorced men hitting the club).
Kermit doesn't think of outfits in parts or as a pseudo-science (e.g., black goes with blue), but as cultural language. He thinks of the *total* outfit and what it conveys. The rebel look with a biker jacket and jeans. Or the time he wore white suits with gold chains in the '70s
Here, we see him taking chances with a beautifully patterned serape and a safari jacket worn with a neckerchief and beret.
Men often struggle with this because their identity may be rooted in just being a "normal dude," so they see any outfit that deviates from some middle-class uniform as "cosplay."
But do you think a frog actually herds cattle?
By thinking of clothes as cultural language, Kermit is able to put together cooler outfits. Here, he's channeling 1980s Miami Vice energy with a lightweight jacket, pink mock neck, striped pants, white horsebit loafers, and giant sunglasses.
Compare these two outfits. Piers' black polo with checked knee-length shorts and bad sneakers says nothing. But Kermit's cargo shorts with an Aloha shirt, fishing bag, and straw hat says: "I'm a mid-century sportsman on vacation."
To develop your visual vocabulary, you have to pay attention to culture. Think about how clothes were worn in the past by various cultural groups. Here we see all the references for Kermit's outfit above.
You can see how the same language is channeled in Aime Leon Dore's spring/ summer lookbook. The outfit on the right is a little better because the man is wearing a jacket (outfits often need a finishing layer). But perhaps Kermit was hot that day.
We see the same issues here. Piers is wearing a slim, shapeless topcoat with a stretched-out V-neck, a white dress shirt, a scarf, bad jeans, and suede loafers (confusing, no cultural message, aesthetically unappealing).
Kermit wears a similar outfit but employs a field parka, a Fair Isle knit, and a scarf. The coat gives him a distinctive silhouette. The sweater is visually more interesting. All the elements in the outfit make sense in terms of weather and cultural language.
Again, the same issue here. Piers is wearing generic clothes (no cultural message, lack of a finishing layer, visually uninteresting). Kermit improves on this by aligning the materials (chambray with denim) and using an open shirt as a lightweight layer. Has a workwear vibe.
Finally, Kermit knows that dinner suits (aka tuxedos) should be worn with black bow ties made from the same material as the jacket's facings, not long black ties, which should be reserved for business meetings, court appearances, and funerals.
Piers looks best on his TV show, where he employs a visual language he knows (dark suit, light shirt, dark tie). He just needs to learn a few more languages for when he's off the show and perhaps pay attention to Kermit the Frog.
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A few years ago, I interviewed my friend @andrew3sixteen, who runs one of my favorite denim brands, 3sixteen. I really like how he combines workwear in a way that feels relatable. For the feature, he wore this tremendous Schott B-3 sheepskin jacket. 🧵
The B-3 is a thick and heavy sheepskin jacket originally designed to protect US pilots. I think it looks great, but it can be very much of a statement piece in civilian life. Alternatively, there's the B-6, which saw service from 1939 to 1943.
Left: B-3 Right: B-6
The B-6 was designed to fill the space between the lighter A-2 and the heavier B-3. Made with a smaller wool pile and shorter body length, it was primarily worn by ground crew members and bomber crewmen who were less exposed to the elements.
I sad that, despite belabouring the point over and over again, it still does not come through. So I will make another attempt at explaining why I think respectability in dress is stupid. 🧵
When it comes to respectability in dress, there are two sides of the equation: you as a person getting dressed and you as an observer.
If you're going somewhere, you can make a decision to dress "respectably," if you wish.
For instance, if I were to attend a wedding, I would wear a suit to communicate that I wish to honor my hosts on their special day. My clothes are an outward representation of what's in my heart. I'm using the clothes to communicate to people.
My intention is never to tell you to purchase a garment from a certain brand, and certainly not luxury brands like Tom Ford. Instead, it's to hopefully pull back the curtains and show you why some things look the way they do. I will give some examples. 🧵
I don't encourage you to buy garments just because of how they look on other people. Instead, it's to develop an eye for why something works or doesn't work. For instance, the Winklevoss twins have very broad, square shoulders.
To my eye, they do not look good in these suits because the jackets have too much shoulder padding. If you place a shoulder pad—even something as thin as 1.5 ply—on a person with very square shoulders, they will look like a linebacker.
Dislike the term "fatass" here. IMO, it's unnecessary to body shame anyone, regardless of how you feel about them. But I can explain why you have this impression. 🧵
Aside from the fact that Musk is one of the most photographed men in the world and anyone can be made to look in any way if you take enough photos of them, what you're seeing is partly the effect of clothes. Some years ago, the WSJ reported that Musk shops at Nordstrom.
If you zoom in on photos of Musk, you will see a curious detail: his suit jackets have five buttons at the cuff, rather than the more standard four, and one buttonhole is longer than the others. This is a signature of Tom Ford suits.
Many people go about this the wrong way: they throw some wacky item into an outfit, thinking this makes things more interesting. This is like inserting random letters into a sentence. When you do so, you spoil the meaning. The tchotchkes here ruin the business suit.
To make an outfit more interesting, you have to know what you want to say. This requires knowledge: knowledge of self (who are you), knowledge of cultural hitsory, knowledge aesthetic language, and knowledge of what do you want to say.
I think very slim trousers in a tailored outfit can work on certain men, but the percentage is much smaller than many believe. It often doesn't work in real life for a variety of reasons. Here are some. 🧵
When you slim the trousers beyond a certain point, you end up breaking the silhouette into two distinctive blocks: upper and lower. This ruins the harmony of a tailored aesthetic. To me, the coat and trouser should have some relationship so they form a coherent whole.
The second reason has to do with the rise. The cut of the legs typically moves in concert with the rise. Full legged trousers have a high rise; slim trousers typically have a low rise. It would be weird to switch these bc you'd mess with the proportions of pants.