Happy to answer this question. What is so beautiful about a man wearing a fishnet veil and what appears to be an overcoat woven of shredded garbage bags? 🧵
My interest in men's dress is mostly about culture, visual language, and craft. Where people see identical black or grey suits, I see differences in fit and silhouette. There's a lot of skill that goes into making something look beautiful, such as pattern drafting & pad stitching
If you are seriously interested in craft, you can't help but be impressed by the craftsmanship that goes into these garments. These are all the Thom Browne pieces worn at the last Met Gala. For this thread, I will only talk about the man in the middle, Alton Mason.
What's so beautiful about a man wearing a fishnet veil and what appears to be an overcoat woven of shredded garbage bags?
First, the pattern drafting. It's hard to get slim trousers to hang so beautifully. Notice that both men here are wearing high-heeled shoes and slim trousers, but only Mason's trousers don't ripple down the back of his legs. That's because the trousers have a proper back rise.
There are tons of photos of Mason at this event. Not once will you catch him with a collar gap, even when he raises his arms to hug people or wave to the crowd. Again, we know this is from quality tailoring—proper cut for chest and shoulders, high armhole, etc.
There's also the unique material. This oversized tailcoat is made from black deconstructed denim tweed and plaid ribbon tweed. Both had to be specially woven. These uniquely textured tweeds are typically used for womenswear (e.g., Chanel tweeds) but they look beautiful here.
It can be hard to tell in the photos, but this floral appliqué was hand-beaded. From afar, the leaves and bullion roses almost look like a patch—like what kids stick onto backpacks. But this is only because the detailing is so fine.
A small-minded person might think that such details don't belong on a man's garment. However, one only needs to see a similar technique in something socially considered more "traditional"—the King's coronation—and suddenly you hear the oohs and aahs. Ask what influences your view
Most of all, I love the off-the-shoulder fit and oversized sleeves. It has such an awesome silhouette in the way it plays with proportions.
To me, the outfit is a play on traditional men's formalwear in that it exaggerates the white tie's tailcoat and incorporates things like a silk satin cummerbund. The grosgrain tipping along the jacket's lapels also accentuates the formality. It's perfect for a gala.
I assume these platform shoes were also bespoke. I don't know how they were made, but just as I admire traditional bespoke shoes, I admire non-traditional designs (so long as they go with the outfit—there are lots of unusual designs nowadays worn in bad ways).
It does not bother me that a man is wearing elements traditionally worn in womenswear, just as I'm not bothered by how Marlene Dietrich wore a tuxedo, Katharine Hepburn wore pants, or Yves Saint Laurent made Le Smoking. These outfits are beautiful.
I'm principally interested in aesthetics—clothes worn beautifully in ways that make sense, even if the language is used creatively. And clothing built with craftsmanship. This Thom Browne outfit satisfies all those things.
Many people don't understand that liking traditional tailoring doesn't mean you have to hate things that are not traditional. You can listen to rap and classical music, eat pasta and pho, and speak English and Japanese.
This doesn't mean you abandon standards; you are just not narrow-minded. If this outfit is not for you, that's fine! Not everything has to be for everyone. But many people will like ugly, crappy suits worn in bad ways before they like this, and that's confusing to me.
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This is the suit in question. It's a bespoke suit by Anderson & Sheppard in London. The cloth is a 60/40 mohair-wool blend from Standeven's "Carnival" book. The stylist was George Cortina.
To understand why this suit is interesting, you have to know a bit about tailoring history
In the early 20th century, Dutch-English tailor Frederick Scholte noticed that a man could be made to look more athletic if he belted up his guard's coat, puffing out the chest and nipping the waist. So he built this idea into his patterns. Thus the "drape cut" war born.
In 1881, Hans Wilsdorf was born in Bavaria, then part of Germany, to parents who died not long after he was born. At a young age, Wilsdorf set off into the world. He landed in England in 1903, which at the time had virtually no formal immigration controls.
Lucky for him. Two years later, fear of poor Eastern European Jews flooding the UK led to 1905 Aliens Act, which moved the country from an open-door policy to one of stricter control. This was the first British law that labeled certain migrants as "undesirable."
I can tell you who goes to cobblers. And a bit about the trade. 🧵
In the 18th century, men got shoes from two types of people. The upper classes went to cordwainers, who measured feet and made shoes from scratch. The lower working-classes went to cobblers, who cobbled together shoes using scraps from salvaged pre-owned footwear.
A cobbler was also someone who repaired footwear. Hence the Middle English term cobeler ("mender of shoes") deriving from an early form of cobble ("to mend roughly, patch"). In shoemaking, cordwainers and cobblers were considered distinct trades. Cobbler was lower on the ladder.
An offhand comment about how Prince Harry doesn't dress very well seems to have stirred up his fans. So here's a thread on how both Harry and William don't dress well when compared to the older men in their family — and how this represents a broader decline in taste. 🧵
I should say at the outset that I don't care about the drama surrounding the Royal family. I don't care if you're Team Markle or Team Middleton or Team whatever. I am simply talking about clothes. The following is also not meant to be personal jabs; just an honest review.
The first thing to understand is that select members of royal family were incredible dressers. Most notable is Edward VIII, the Duke of Windsor. For a time, whatever he wore, others followed. He popularized cuffed trousers, belts, and a tailoring style known as the "drape cut."
When we zoom in on the wallet, we see the label "Saint Laurent Paris," a French luxury fashion house that became popular about ten years ago when Kanye started wearing the label. This was also when Hedi Slimane was at the company's creative helm.
For many young men at the time, Saint Laurent was their entry into designer fashion, partly because the designs were conceptually approachable (LA rocker, Hot Topic), while the Kanye co-sign made them cool and the prices signaled status (and for the uninformed, suggested quality)
When I was on a menswear forum, navy trousers were of great controversy. Discussions about them lasted many years, resulting in long-lasting rivalries. Sometimes people refrained from speaking about them out of fear of dredging up old debates.
First, I should state at the outset that there's no way to have this conversation without, in some way, speaking crudely about certain classes of people. I make no judgements about their worth or dignity. I am only describing the semiotics of men's dress.
Second, everything depends on your goals. Dress is not a science, so there are no overriding laws. Everything is contextual to culture. More on this later
Before we start, here are two outfits involving green sport coats. Which do you like better? Please choose before moving on.