Happy to answer this question. What is so beautiful about a man wearing a fishnet veil and what appears to be an overcoat woven of shredded garbage bags? 🧵
My interest in men's dress is mostly about culture, visual language, and craft. Where people see identical black or grey suits, I see differences in fit and silhouette. There's a lot of skill that goes into making something look beautiful, such as pattern drafting & pad stitching
If you are seriously interested in craft, you can't help but be impressed by the craftsmanship that goes into these garments. These are all the Thom Browne pieces worn at the last Met Gala. For this thread, I will only talk about the man in the middle, Alton Mason.
What's so beautiful about a man wearing a fishnet veil and what appears to be an overcoat woven of shredded garbage bags?
First, the pattern drafting. It's hard to get slim trousers to hang so beautifully. Notice that both men here are wearing high-heeled shoes and slim trousers, but only Mason's trousers don't ripple down the back of his legs. That's because the trousers have a proper back rise.
There are tons of photos of Mason at this event. Not once will you catch him with a collar gap, even when he raises his arms to hug people or wave to the crowd. Again, we know this is from quality tailoring—proper cut for chest and shoulders, high armhole, etc.
There's also the unique material. This oversized tailcoat is made from black deconstructed denim tweed and plaid ribbon tweed. Both had to be specially woven. These uniquely textured tweeds are typically used for womenswear (e.g., Chanel tweeds) but they look beautiful here.
It can be hard to tell in the photos, but this floral appliqué was hand-beaded. From afar, the leaves and bullion roses almost look like a patch—like what kids stick onto backpacks. But this is only because the detailing is so fine.
A small-minded person might think that such details don't belong on a man's garment. However, one only needs to see a similar technique in something socially considered more "traditional"—the King's coronation—and suddenly you hear the oohs and aahs. Ask what influences your view
Most of all, I love the off-the-shoulder fit and oversized sleeves. It has such an awesome silhouette in the way it plays with proportions.
To me, the outfit is a play on traditional men's formalwear in that it exaggerates the white tie's tailcoat and incorporates things like a silk satin cummerbund. The grosgrain tipping along the jacket's lapels also accentuates the formality. It's perfect for a gala.
I assume these platform shoes were also bespoke. I don't know how they were made, but just as I admire traditional bespoke shoes, I admire non-traditional designs (so long as they go with the outfit—there are lots of unusual designs nowadays worn in bad ways).
It does not bother me that a man is wearing elements traditionally worn in womenswear, just as I'm not bothered by how Marlene Dietrich wore a tuxedo, Katharine Hepburn wore pants, or Yves Saint Laurent made Le Smoking. These outfits are beautiful.
I'm principally interested in aesthetics—clothes worn beautifully in ways that make sense, even if the language is used creatively. And clothing built with craftsmanship. This Thom Browne outfit satisfies all those things.
Many people don't understand that liking traditional tailoring doesn't mean you have to hate things that are not traditional. You can listen to rap and classical music, eat pasta and pho, and speak English and Japanese.
This doesn't mean you abandon standards; you are just not narrow-minded. If this outfit is not for you, that's fine! Not everything has to be for everyone. But many people will like ugly, crappy suits worn in bad ways before they like this, and that's confusing to me.
• • •
Missing some Tweet in this thread? You can try to
force a refresh
Let's first establish good vs bad ways to think about style. The first pic is correct — style is a kind of social language and you have to figure out what type of person you are. The second pic is stupid bc it takes style as disconnected objects ("this is in" vs "this is out").
I should also note here that I'm only talking about style. I'm not here to argue with you about ergonomics, water bottle holders, or whether something accommodates your Dell laptop. I'm am talking about aesthetics.
Watch these two videos. Then answer these two questions:
— Which of the two men is better dressed?
— How does each come off?
I think Carney is better dressed, partly because his clothes fit better. Notice that his jacket collar always hugs his neck, while Pierre Poilievre's jacket collar never touches him.
The level of craftsmanship that goes into a lot of Japanese menswear simply doesn't exist in the United States. You can do this for many categories — suits, jeans, hats, etc.
In this thread, I will show you just one category: men's shoes 🧵
For this comparison, I will focus on Japanese bespoke shoemaking vs. US ready-to-wear. The level of bespoke craftsmanship shown here simply doesn't exist in the US, so a Japanese bespoke vs. US bespoke comparison would be unfair. US bespoke is mostly about orthopedic work.
So instead, I will focus on the best that the US has to offer: ready-to-wear Alden.
On a basic level, top-end Japanese shoes are better because they are handwelted, whereas Alden shoes are Goodyear welted. The first involves more handwork and can be resoled more often.
In 1999, a group of Haitians were tired of political disorder and dreamed of a better life in the United States. So they built a small, 23-foot boat by hand using pine trees, scrap wood, and used nails. They called the boat "Believe in God." 🧵
In a boat powered by nothing but a sail, they somehow made it from Tortuga Island to the Bahamas (about a 90 mile distance). Then from the Bahamas, they set sail again. But a few days and some hundred miles later, their makeshift boat began to sink.
The men on the boat were so dehydrated this point, one slipped in and out of consciousness, unable to stand. They were all resigned to their death.
Luckily, they were rescued at the last minute by the US Coast Guard.
After this post went viral, I called Caroline Groves, a world-class bespoke shoemaker, to discuss how women's shoes are made. I normally don't talk about womenswear, but I found the information interesting, so I thought I would share what I learned here. 🧵
Footwear is broadly broken into two categories: bespoke and ready-to-wear. In London, bespoke makers, including those for women, are largely focused on traditional styles, such as wingtip derbies and loafers. Emiko Matsuda is great for this.
In Paris, there's Massaro, a historic firm that has been operating since 1894, now owned by Chanel. Their designs are less about creating the women's equivalent of traditional men's footwear and more about things such as heels or creative styles. Aesthetic is still "traditional."
Earlier today, Roger Stone announced his partnership with a menswear company, where together they've released a collection of tailored clothing items.
Here is my review of those pieces. 🧵
The line is mostly comprised of suits and sport coats, supplemented with dress shirts and one pair of odd trousers (tailor-speak for a pair of pants made without a matching jacket). Suits start at $1,540; sport coats are $1,150. One suit is $5,400 bc it's made from Scabal fabric
Let's start with the good points. These are fully canvassed jackets, meaning a free floating canvas has been tacked onto the face fabric to give it some weight and structure. This is better than a half-canvas and fully fused construction, but requires more time and labor.