derek guy Profile picture
May 25 • 16 tweets • 8 min read • Read on X
Happy to answer this question. What is so beautiful about a man wearing a fishnet veil and what appears to be an overcoat woven of shredded garbage bags? đź§µ Image
My interest in men's dress is mostly about culture, visual language, and craft. Where people see identical black or grey suits, I see differences in fit and silhouette. There's a lot of skill that goes into making something look beautiful, such as pattern drafting & pad stitching

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If you are seriously interested in craft, you can't help but be impressed by the craftsmanship that goes into these garments. These are all the Thom Browne pieces worn at the last Met Gala. For this thread, I will only talk about the man in the middle, Alton Mason. Image
What's so beautiful about a man wearing a fishnet veil and what appears to be an overcoat woven of shredded garbage bags? Image
First, the pattern drafting. It's hard to get slim trousers to hang so beautifully. Notice that both men here are wearing high-heeled shoes and slim trousers, but only Mason's trousers don't ripple down the back of his legs. That's because the trousers have a proper back rise.
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There are tons of photos of Mason at this event. Not once will you catch him with a collar gap, even when he raises his arms to hug people or wave to the crowd. Again, we know this is from quality tailoring—proper cut for chest and shoulders, high armhole, etc.
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There's also the unique material. This oversized tailcoat is made from black deconstructed denim tweed and plaid ribbon tweed. Both had to be specially woven. These uniquely textured tweeds are typically used for womenswear (e.g., Chanel tweeds) but they look beautiful here.
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It can be hard to tell in the photos, but this floral appliqué was hand-beaded. From afar, the leaves and bullion roses almost look like a patch—like what kids stick onto backpacks. But this is only because the detailing is so fine.

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A small-minded person might think that such details don't belong on a man's garment. However, one only needs to see a similar technique in something socially considered more "traditional"—the King's coronation—and suddenly you hear the oohs and aahs. Ask what influences your view
Most of all, I love the off-the-shoulder fit and oversized sleeves. It has such an awesome silhouette in the way it plays with proportions.
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To me, the outfit is a play on traditional men's formalwear in that it exaggerates the white tie's tailcoat and incorporates things like a silk satin cummerbund. The grosgrain tipping along the jacket's lapels also accentuates the formality. It's perfect for a gala.
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I assume these platform shoes were also bespoke. I don't know how they were made, but just as I admire traditional bespoke shoes, I admire non-traditional designs (so long as they go with the outfit—there are lots of unusual designs nowadays worn in bad ways).
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It does not bother me that a man is wearing elements traditionally worn in womenswear, just as I'm not bothered by how Marlene Dietrich wore a tuxedo, Katharine Hepburn wore pants, or Yves Saint Laurent made Le Smoking. These outfits are beautiful.

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I'm principally interested in aesthetics—clothes worn beautifully in ways that make sense, even if the language is used creatively. And clothing built with craftsmanship. This Thom Browne outfit satisfies all those things. Image
Many people don't understand that liking traditional tailoring doesn't mean you have to hate things that are not traditional. You can listen to rap and classical music, eat pasta and pho, and speak English and Japanese.
This doesn't mean you abandon standards; you are just not narrow-minded. If this outfit is not for you, that's fine! Not everything has to be for everyone. But many people will like ugly, crappy suits worn in bad ways before they like this, and that's confusing to me.
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More from @dieworkwear

May 25
IMO, this is a very bad way to build a wardrobe. If you build a wardrobe like this, you will be constantly cycling in and out of clothes. Nothing will ever feel like "you." And nothing will look like "you" because you won't wear things for long enough. đź§µ
Trends certainly matter. John Malone, the head trouser cutter at Anderson & Sheppard, tells me he makes slimmer trousers now than he did in the 1990s. Even Prince Phillip once sent a 51-year-old pair of pants to his tailor, John Kent, to be slimmed up. Image
But caring about "where the puck is going" will always leave you chasing trends. There are much better and more sustainable ways to build a wardrobe. Here are three tips:
Read 13 tweets
May 25
Few men nowadays have to wear suits. If they do, it's more often because they choose to. However, this also puts a lot of pressure on men to try to find ways to dress things down. Often, people approach this from the wrong angle: pairing the jacket with some unusual thing.
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It would be better to focus first on fit and silhouette. If a garment fits and flatters, it will look beautiful. Then, play with fabrics. Instead of the dark worsted wools in sober colors like grey and navy, as you'd wear for business, try a linen suit (esp good for summer).
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Read 14 tweets
May 23
This is a very bad and inaccurate reading of my views. Not only do I frequently link aesthetics to politics and culture, but I think things are improving in all these areas. I will explain in this thread. đź§µ Image
What you think is the symbol of respectability was not always seen as such. At the turn of the 20th century, men in high positions—such as finance, law, and government—wore the frock coat. Working-class administrators and clerks wore the suit.
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Frock-coat men and those who wanted to appear more upper class looked down on the rough attire of laborers. Polemical writers said the fustian lounge suit—a precursor of the business suit—was evidence of fecklessness, laziness, and the wasted lives of immoral people.
Read 20 tweets
May 21
This is what a tailored jacket looks like when the fusing has become delaminated. Will explain in this thread why this happens, whether you can fix it, and what to look for when shopping to avoid stuff like this. đź§µ
Fabric is floppy, so on a tailored jacket, the fronts have to be built with some structure so the jacket doesn't end up behaving like a dress shirt. See how the jacket below has its own silhouette. This is the result of the structure underneath the surface.


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A jacket has three main layers. The first is the chest piece, which is made from haircloth or wrapped haircloth (basically a wirey horsehair material). Look at how Tom Ford's chest puffs out. This is because of the material inside. See how the fabric doesn't fall flat on a table
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Read 17 tweets
May 21
IMO, it's misguided to separate traditional men's dress from more daring looks. The reason why some of the more daring looks work is because the person understands classic men's dress. I will show some examples. đź§µ
This is Kamau at The Armoury. He knows everything there is to know about classic tailoring, which is why he's able to put together these looks so successfully. Single-breasted, peak lapel, black velvet jacket is classically formal (like cocktail attire)

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But he's made it into his own thing by pairing it with a turtleneck, puppytooth trousers, black velvet Belgian loafers, and chunky 70s eyewear. The result is this super sexy version of classic tailoring. It's classic, but tweaked correctly.
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Read 10 tweets
May 19
No one will see the label inside your clothes or know who made the fabric. So, it's more important to develop an eye for what looks good than to rely on brand names. In this thread, I will show some good spring/ summer fabric for tailoring. đź§µ
Since woolen yarns hold heat, spring/summer clothes are typically made with worsted fabrics. That means that they don't have a fuzzy nap (i.e., they're not hairy, like tweed). Without a nap, a strong pattern can have very vivid lines, which often look ugly.
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For this reason, a full suit in a patterned spring/summer fabric can be difficult to wear. One solution is to go for a very subtle pattern in low contrast, such as puppytooth, five-point star, or a hairline weave. These are always unimpeachable.
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Read 8 tweets

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