I don't know who Milo is talking about here, but since he has expressed pride in British culture, here are the ways in which his outfit violates British traditions. 🧵
The first and most obvious is that Milo has fastened the bottom-most button on his jacket, something that British men have known not to do since King Edward VI supposedly left his undone (and his courtiers followed). This button is a vestigial detail—not meant to be used.
The second is that the jacket is entirely too small. Look at this suit by Anthony Sinclair, a legendary British tailor who created a pared-down style known as the "Conduit Cut" (called so bc Sinclair was located on Conduit Street when he tailored for Connery). Note clean lines.
A distinguishing mark of quality British tailoring—and, indeed, tailoring all over the world—is that the jacket doesn't pull, particularly around the buttons. Caine can comfortably fit his hand into his coat, but Milo's coat barely contains him.
Milo's outfit violates another basic principle of British dress. Here, he's wearing a brown tweed with navy chinos.
As I've noted many times in the past, our understanding of traditional tailoring largely derives from British culture, particularly that period in which men had wardrobes divided between city and country. Every detail conveyed something. Navy was city; brown country.
Anyone familiar with British culture knows that brown tweeds should be worn with things such as taupe trousers cut from rustic materials such as cavalry twill or whipcord. Not blue chinos.
Similarly, button-down collars are an Americanism. The more British choice here would be a semi-spread collar shirt. Milo's shirt collar is especially bad because the collar points are small and dinky. The buttonholes are also made with contrast thread—a mark of bad taste.
His jacket also demonstrates a lack of familiarity with British culture in that it has peak lapels and three patch pockets—two at the hips and one at the breast.
In traditional British tailoring, every detail has meaning. Peak lapels are a formal detail primarily reserved for dinner suits, business suits, and "city attire." Patch pockets are a casual detail typically reserved for country and leisure clothes.
English actor Edward Fox understood this. See how his grey worsted suit with cloth-covered buttons has peak lapels (all formal details) while his rustic tweed has notch lapels. Certainly, he wouldn't be ignorant enough to put peak lapels on a triple-patch pocket jacket.
There's also the tie. In British culture, regimental striped ties typically denote membership in some organization, often a school or part of the military. For example, The tie below signals that the wearer is part of The Rifles, an infantry regiment of the British Army.
In the early 1900s, Brooks Brothers introduced their version of regimental stripes, which are purely decorative. Not wanting to copy the British, they flipped the direction of the stripes. See how they run in the opposite direction.
Milo here is wearing a faux regimental stripe that runs in the American direction. It is an odd choice for a British patriot, but it may also be the only option if no British organization will have you.
In any case, I write this as a non-white immigrant living in an English-speaking country. However, I love British tailoring and American culture. I hope this shows that immigrants can offer something to native-born citizens.
Here are some photos of British men who know about traditional British dress practices. I hope Milo can absorb the information presented in these photos.
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look at a photo where someone looks good in a t-shirt. what do you notice?
to me, there's often a certain ratio between their torso and legs. 🧵
sometimes this is achieved by the person tucking in their t-shirt. sometimes the person in the photo is sitting down, so you can't really tell what's going on. but there's always a specific ratio between torso and legs: slightly cropped torso, long legs.
sometimes a long t-shirt can look great, as long as its part of an intentional aesthetic. see rick owens, evan kinori, 90s hip hop aesthetics, skater style, etc.
Affordable stylish stuff you can find on eBay and elsewhere 🧵
Note that not everything on this list is going to fit your criteria for affordability because I didn't write this list specifically for you (as I don't know you). It's for a general audience. Take what's helpful; leave what's not.
Carhartt Double Knees (~$60)
Tough, durable, and handsome. Also a little fuller through the leg, which looks better than skinny chinos. Wear with denim trucker jackets, chore coats, and bombers. Black and brown are good colors.
Who dresses better? Alpha males or little dogs? Let's explore. 🧵
Tate's leather trenchcoat has crumpled lapels and is not very practical for the rain.
Pepsi's plastic coat is both functional and stylish. The baby blue trim and little snap button keep this from looking like a tarp. The sneakers are also a nice touch!
Pool fastened the bottommost button on his suit, thus causing the jacket's front edge to drag. Also, he's missing a tie, and most notably, wearing a beanie.
Blitz knows that beanies are for casualwear, so he wears a charcoal flannel. Black tonal coloring is very death metal. A+
there's a theory that when you wear something bold, you have to tone everything down so that you don't look like a clown. in fact, depending on the item, you should lean into the look. 🧵
if you're going to style metallic gold sneakers, think about who would have worn such things in history. i think of guys like rick james and elton john. thus, grey suit is totally wrong—you have to go tiger striped jacket and leather pants, or short shorts with gold bomber
reasonably, rep. nehls is not going to show up for work in such an outfit. not because it would be inappropriate, but because he doesn't have the personality to pull it off. the outfit would overpower him. he needs to keep it somewhere in the realm of tailoring.
— Jacket is shorter than halfway from collar to the floor (most evident in the third pic)
— A bit too tight through the waist
— No structure inside, so the garment wears like a cardigan. There is no shape like the jackets in the first tweet
The most egregious is this jacket. Sometimes, these short jackets can work in very casual outfits (see the Engineered Garments Bedford in the second pic). But Poilievre's jacket is still too small. Plus, the unique cut and fabric require that it be styled in very specific ways
I will explain why you shouldn't wear a shoulder bag with a tailored jacket. By shoulder bag, I mean bags suspended by your shoulders—messenger bags, backpacks, totes, and such. 🧵
A tailored jacket is made up of many layers of material, including haircloth, canvas, felt, and padding. Some of these layers stretch across the shoulder line. This is what makes a tailored jacket look good—it builds up a certain silhouette.
If you take your hand and run it across your shoulder, going from the back to the front of your body, you will find that your body is not perfectly symmetrical. There is a hollow as your shoulder curves forward, away from your shoulder blade.