My post was sort of tongue-in-cheek, but I do feel that if you're a jeans and hoodie guy, you can just find versions of what you love. Identify the qualities you like and find better versions of that thing. Will give an example. 🧵
In 2019, I interviewed @andrew3sixteen, who co-founded @3sixteen (one of my favorite denim brands). He's a busy dude, a family man, and a father to two young boys. I remember him telling me that, except for outerwear, he only buys clothes that can be thrown into the wash.
He doesn't even engage in the kind of meticulous shoe-care techniques that are often talked about online (leather conditioning, polishing, etc). These are his Viberg work boots (new vs old). He prefers things that are easy to care for and get better with age.
3sixteen has been around for over 20 years now. It started as a streetwear brand and then moved to cut-and-sew at some point. I asked Andrew how his style has changed over the years, and he said, "Not much." He still wears hoodies, t-shirts, jeans, and flannels.
"Things just fit better," he told me. He also identified what he likes and found better versions of those things. For example, he realized that he likes heavier flannel shirts, especially ones with coarser, visible weaves. And t-shirts that don't sag after a few washes.
He gave some tips on how to build a wardrobe: focus, learn, try stuff out, ask for help, and have fun. It's not ground-breaking stuff, but it's reasonable and actually how good wardrobes are built.
Some of the stuff I like about his wardrobe:
1. The clothes are made from materials that only get better with age. So the flannel shirts, jeans, and boots actually look *better* when they're beat-up. This way, he never feels he has to replace things. He cherishes what he owns.
2. On top of what are stylistically really basic pieces—jeans, flannels, sweats—he also splurges on cool outerwear. A good jacket can really make an outfit. In the winter, he wears things like deck jackets and a Schott B-3; in the warmer months, he switches to trucker jackets.
3. I also like the way he accessorizes. He wears a lot of jewelry, such as chunky rings, bracelets, and necklaces. The size, styling, and materials suit his aesthetic and add visual interest to what are somewhat simple (but quality) outfits.
Your wardrobe is a pretty personal thing. There's no singular "right" way to build one, and everyone has different goals. Some guys just want to avoid looking "wrong" at the office or at social functions; others want to dress to attract a mate. These are all legitimate goals!
My perspective is very much from the viewpoint of a hobbyist/ enthusiast. I think many solutions approach the process of building a wardrobe as a "minimize time/ maximize output" problem. Like ticking a checkbox from your to-do list. This is from that article about $500 stylists:
Those sorts of approaches feel cold to me. I'm not convinced that guys end up loving what they wear and thus keeping what they buy. But perhaps they do! My feeling is that you should explore what's available and find joy in clothes, but I realize this is not everyone's bag.
Many people have commented on how both of these outfits look boring. But if they express what the guy wants to express, it may be better for him to go down that route and figure out what is a better version of something that *works for him.*
Many of the suggestions I've seen seem to impose someone's vision of style onto that person. But that's like shoving words in someone's mouth. What do they want to express? What language do they like? What makes them happy? IMO, it would be better for him to explore.
So I would reframe it: price is not that important outside of giving you more options. I would not encourage him to replace everything he owns with "more expensive" versions. I would encourage him to explore, like the process of finding your favorite album or restaurant.
If people can't believe that you paid a bunch of money to wear hoodies, but those make you feel good, who cares? Your style does not have to please everyone. Links:
Let's first establish good vs bad ways to think about style. The first pic is correct — style is a kind of social language and you have to figure out what type of person you are. The second pic is stupid bc it takes style as disconnected objects ("this is in" vs "this is out").
I should also note here that I'm only talking about style. I'm not here to argue with you about ergonomics, water bottle holders, or whether something accommodates your Dell laptop. I'm am talking about aesthetics.
Watch these two videos. Then answer these two questions:
— Which of the two men is better dressed?
— How does each come off?
I think Carney is better dressed, partly because his clothes fit better. Notice that his jacket collar always hugs his neck, while Pierre Poilievre's jacket collar never touches him.
The level of craftsmanship that goes into a lot of Japanese menswear simply doesn't exist in the United States. You can do this for many categories — suits, jeans, hats, etc.
In this thread, I will show you just one category: men's shoes 🧵
For this comparison, I will focus on Japanese bespoke shoemaking vs. US ready-to-wear. The level of bespoke craftsmanship shown here simply doesn't exist in the US, so a Japanese bespoke vs. US bespoke comparison would be unfair. US bespoke is mostly about orthopedic work.
So instead, I will focus on the best that the US has to offer: ready-to-wear Alden.
On a basic level, top-end Japanese shoes are better because they are handwelted, whereas Alden shoes are Goodyear welted. The first involves more handwork and can be resoled more often.
In 1999, a group of Haitians were tired of political disorder and dreamed of a better life in the United States. So they built a small, 23-foot boat by hand using pine trees, scrap wood, and used nails. They called the boat "Believe in God." 🧵
In a boat powered by nothing but a sail, they somehow made it from Tortuga Island to the Bahamas (about a 90 mile distance). Then from the Bahamas, they set sail again. But a few days and some hundred miles later, their makeshift boat began to sink.
The men on the boat were so dehydrated this point, one slipped in and out of consciousness, unable to stand. They were all resigned to their death.
Luckily, they were rescued at the last minute by the US Coast Guard.
After this post went viral, I called Caroline Groves, a world-class bespoke shoemaker, to discuss how women's shoes are made. I normally don't talk about womenswear, but I found the information interesting, so I thought I would share what I learned here. 🧵
Footwear is broadly broken into two categories: bespoke and ready-to-wear. In London, bespoke makers, including those for women, are largely focused on traditional styles, such as wingtip derbies and loafers. Emiko Matsuda is great for this.
In Paris, there's Massaro, a historic firm that has been operating since 1894, now owned by Chanel. Their designs are less about creating the women's equivalent of traditional men's footwear and more about things such as heels or creative styles. Aesthetic is still "traditional."
Earlier today, Roger Stone announced his partnership with a menswear company, where together they've released a collection of tailored clothing items.
Here is my review of those pieces. 🧵
The line is mostly comprised of suits and sport coats, supplemented with dress shirts and one pair of odd trousers (tailor-speak for a pair of pants made without a matching jacket). Suits start at $1,540; sport coats are $1,150. One suit is $5,400 bc it's made from Scabal fabric
Let's start with the good points. These are fully canvassed jackets, meaning a free floating canvas has been tacked onto the face fabric to give it some weight and structure. This is better than a half-canvas and fully fused construction, but requires more time and labor.