derek guy Profile picture
Jun 18, 2024 16 tweets 9 min read Read on X
My post was sort of tongue-in-cheek, but I do feel that if you're a jeans and hoodie guy, you can just find versions of what you love. Identify the qualities you like and find better versions of that thing. Will give an example. 🧵
In 2019, I interviewed @andrew3sixteen, who co-founded @3sixteen (one of my favorite denim brands). He's a busy dude, a family man, and a father to two young boys. I remember him telling me that, except for outerwear, he only buys clothes that can be thrown into the wash. Image
He doesn't even engage in the kind of meticulous shoe-care techniques that are often talked about online (leather conditioning, polishing, etc). These are his Viberg work boots (new vs old). He prefers things that are easy to care for and get better with age.


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3sixteen has been around for over 20 years now. It started as a streetwear brand and then moved to cut-and-sew at some point. I asked Andrew how his style has changed over the years, and he said, "Not much." He still wears hoodies, t-shirts, jeans, and flannels.
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"Things just fit better," he told me. He also identified what he likes and found better versions of those things. For example, he realized that he likes heavier flannel shirts, especially ones with coarser, visible weaves. And t-shirts that don't sag after a few washes. Image
He gave some tips on how to build a wardrobe: focus, learn, try stuff out, ask for help, and have fun. It's not ground-breaking stuff, but it's reasonable and actually how good wardrobes are built. Image
Some of the stuff I like about his wardrobe:

1. The clothes are made from materials that only get better with age. So the flannel shirts, jeans, and boots actually look *better* when they're beat-up. This way, he never feels he has to replace things. He cherishes what he owns.
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2. On top of what are stylistically really basic pieces—jeans, flannels, sweats—he also splurges on cool outerwear. A good jacket can really make an outfit. In the winter, he wears things like deck jackets and a Schott B-3; in the warmer months, he switches to trucker jackets.


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3. I also like the way he accessorizes. He wears a lot of jewelry, such as chunky rings, bracelets, and necklaces. The size, styling, and materials suit his aesthetic and add visual interest to what are somewhat simple (but quality) outfits.


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Your wardrobe is a pretty personal thing. There's no singular "right" way to build one, and everyone has different goals. Some guys just want to avoid looking "wrong" at the office or at social functions; others want to dress to attract a mate. These are all legitimate goals!
My perspective is very much from the viewpoint of a hobbyist/ enthusiast. I think many solutions approach the process of building a wardrobe as a "minimize time/ maximize output" problem. Like ticking a checkbox from your to-do list. This is from that article about $500 stylists: Image
Those sorts of approaches feel cold to me. I'm not convinced that guys end up loving what they wear and thus keeping what they buy. But perhaps they do! My feeling is that you should explore what's available and find joy in clothes, but I realize this is not everyone's bag.
Many people have commented on how both of these outfits look boring. But if they express what the guy wants to express, it may be better for him to go down that route and figure out what is a better version of something that *works for him.* Image
Many of the suggestions I've seen seem to impose someone's vision of style onto that person. But that's like shoving words in someone's mouth. What do they want to express? What language do they like? What makes them happy? IMO, it would be better for him to explore. Image
So I would reframe it: price is not that important outside of giving you more options. I would not encourage him to replace everything he owns with "more expensive" versions. I would encourage him to explore, like the process of finding your favorite album or restaurant. Image
If people can't believe that you paid a bunch of money to wear hoodies, but those make you feel good, who cares? Your style does not have to please everyone. Links:

My post on @andrew3sixteen:

Another interview with Andrew 🔗: dieworkwear.com/2019/03/07/a-r…
outfitdissecting.com/dissections/an…
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More from @dieworkwear

Dec 1
After this post went viral, I called Caroline Groves, a world-class bespoke shoemaker, to discuss how women's shoes are made. I normally don't talk about womenswear, but I found the information interesting, so I thought I would share what I learned here. 🧵
First, who is Caroline Groves?

Footwear is broadly broken into two categories: bespoke and ready-to-wear. In London, bespoke makers, including those for women, are largely focused on traditional styles, such as wingtip derbies and loafers. Emiko Matsuda is great for this. Image
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In Paris, there's Massaro, a historic firm that has been operating since 1894, now owned by Chanel. Their designs are less about creating the women's equivalent of traditional men's footwear and more about things such as heels or creative styles. Aesthetic is still "traditional." Image
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Read 18 tweets
Nov 29
Earlier today, Roger Stone announced his partnership with a menswear company, where together they've released a collection of tailored clothing items.

Here is my review of those pieces. 🧵 Image
The line is mostly comprised of suits and sport coats, supplemented with dress shirts and one pair of odd trousers (tailor-speak for a pair of pants made without a matching jacket). Suits start at $1,540; sport coats are $1,150. One suit is $5,400 bc it's made from Scabal fabric Image
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Let's start with the good points. These are fully canvassed jackets, meaning a free floating canvas has been tacked onto the face fabric to give it some weight and structure. This is better than a half-canvas and fully fused construction, but requires more time and labor. Image
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Read 24 tweets
Nov 24
Here is a guide breaking down what goes into quality men's footwear. This is focused on men's shoes, as women's shoes, depending on the style, will have different construction techniques and thus standards. 🧵
First, let's set a standard. What does it mean for a pair of shoes to be "good quality?" In this thread, I define that standard to be two things:

— Do the shoes age well?
— Can they be easily repaired?

In short, you should want and be able to wear the shoes for a long time. Image
We'll start with the part most people see: the uppers.

Quality uppers are made from full grain leather, which shows the natural grain of the hide (pic 1). Low quality uppers will be made from corrected grain, where bad leather has been sanded and given a chemical coating (pic 2) Image
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Read 20 tweets
Nov 23
When I was on a menswear forum, one of my most controversial opinions was that certain coats look better when they're worn open, while others look better when they're closed.

For instance, which of these two outfits look better to you? 🧵 Image
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If you shop for an overcoat today, there's a good chance you'll land on a single breasted. As suits and sport coats have receded from daily life, the types of outerwear that men historically wore with them have also slowly disappeared. Image
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If you look at the past, men had all sorts of designs to wear over their tailored clothing: polos, Ulsters, Balmacaans, Chesterfields, paletots, wrap coats, etc. They were offered in a wider range of materials: gabardine, camelhair, covert, heavy tweeds, etc. Image
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Read 8 tweets
Nov 22
The reason why this looks off is bc the coat is built from many layers of material — haircloth, canvas, and padding — which sits on top of another jacket with similar structure. This can make you look a bit like a linebacker. If you find this to be the case, switch to a raglan 🧵
A raglan is defined by its sleeve construction. Most coats have a set-in sleeve, which is to say the sleeve attached to a vertical armhole, much like a shirt. A raglan, by contrast, has a diagonal seam running from the neck to armpit. Historically, this was put on raincoats. Image
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A raglan construction is a bit more waterproof that its set-in sleeve counterpart because there's not vertical seam in which water can sit and eventually penetrate. But most importantly, it's completely devoid of padding. This results in a softer, rounder shoulder line. Compare: Image
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Read 4 tweets
Nov 22
I disagree.

Instead of thinking there's "the best watch," I recommend thinking about your wardrobe and lifestyle. 🧵
If you mainly wear suits and sport coats, then you will want a simple dress watch on a leather strap. Remember that the spirit here is elegance, so the watch should also be elegant. Certain dress chronos can also work, such as the Vacheron Constantin 4072 in pic 4 Image
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If your wardrobe leans a bit more rugged — bombers, boots, raw denim — then you'll want a similarly rugged tool watch. Something like a dive watch or G-Shock. These larger watches will look more at home with your visually heavy clothes. Although small military watches also work Image
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Read 9 tweets

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