My post was sort of tongue-in-cheek, but I do feel that if you're a jeans and hoodie guy, you can just find versions of what you love. Identify the qualities you like and find better versions of that thing. Will give an example. 🧵
In 2019, I interviewed @andrew3sixteen, who co-founded @3sixteen (one of my favorite denim brands). He's a busy dude, a family man, and a father to two young boys. I remember him telling me that, except for outerwear, he only buys clothes that can be thrown into the wash.
He doesn't even engage in the kind of meticulous shoe-care techniques that are often talked about online (leather conditioning, polishing, etc). These are his Viberg work boots (new vs old). He prefers things that are easy to care for and get better with age.
3sixteen has been around for over 20 years now. It started as a streetwear brand and then moved to cut-and-sew at some point. I asked Andrew how his style has changed over the years, and he said, "Not much." He still wears hoodies, t-shirts, jeans, and flannels.
"Things just fit better," he told me. He also identified what he likes and found better versions of those things. For example, he realized that he likes heavier flannel shirts, especially ones with coarser, visible weaves. And t-shirts that don't sag after a few washes.
He gave some tips on how to build a wardrobe: focus, learn, try stuff out, ask for help, and have fun. It's not ground-breaking stuff, but it's reasonable and actually how good wardrobes are built.
Some of the stuff I like about his wardrobe:
1. The clothes are made from materials that only get better with age. So the flannel shirts, jeans, and boots actually look *better* when they're beat-up. This way, he never feels he has to replace things. He cherishes what he owns.
2. On top of what are stylistically really basic pieces—jeans, flannels, sweats—he also splurges on cool outerwear. A good jacket can really make an outfit. In the winter, he wears things like deck jackets and a Schott B-3; in the warmer months, he switches to trucker jackets.
3. I also like the way he accessorizes. He wears a lot of jewelry, such as chunky rings, bracelets, and necklaces. The size, styling, and materials suit his aesthetic and add visual interest to what are somewhat simple (but quality) outfits.
Your wardrobe is a pretty personal thing. There's no singular "right" way to build one, and everyone has different goals. Some guys just want to avoid looking "wrong" at the office or at social functions; others want to dress to attract a mate. These are all legitimate goals!
My perspective is very much from the viewpoint of a hobbyist/ enthusiast. I think many solutions approach the process of building a wardrobe as a "minimize time/ maximize output" problem. Like ticking a checkbox from your to-do list. This is from that article about $500 stylists:
Those sorts of approaches feel cold to me. I'm not convinced that guys end up loving what they wear and thus keeping what they buy. But perhaps they do! My feeling is that you should explore what's available and find joy in clothes, but I realize this is not everyone's bag.
Many people have commented on how both of these outfits look boring. But if they express what the guy wants to express, it may be better for him to go down that route and figure out what is a better version of something that *works for him.*
Many of the suggestions I've seen seem to impose someone's vision of style onto that person. But that's like shoving words in someone's mouth. What do they want to express? What language do they like? What makes them happy? IMO, it would be better for him to explore.
So I would reframe it: price is not that important outside of giving you more options. I would not encourage him to replace everything he owns with "more expensive" versions. I would encourage him to explore, like the process of finding your favorite album or restaurant.
If people can't believe that you paid a bunch of money to wear hoodies, but those make you feel good, who cares? Your style does not have to please everyone. Links:
One day, "It" will happen, by which I mean sudden and unexpected news that you want to celebrate. In such cases, you will want the right outfit. 🧵
What do I mean by "It?" I mean that joyous moments are not always something you can plan for. Perhaps you received a pay raise or got accepted at a waitlisted school. Perhaps a loved one is now cancer-free. Such moments can be sudden and unexpected — and you want to be prepared.
Of course, you can always celebrate in the same clothes you wear to bed. But IMO, this diminishes the moment. Thus, it's nice to special outfits for "It," even if you don't wear them all the time. It's similar to toasting a special glass of champagne and drinking water.
In the 1950s, Irving Penn traveled across London, Paris, and NYC to take portraits of workers in their work clothes. These clothes at the time were not considered glamorous — they would not have shown up on fashion runways — but they demonstrate a simple aesthetic principle 🧵
Consider these outfits. How do you feel about them? Are they charming? Repulsive? Stylish?
If you consider them charming and stylish, as I do, then ask yourself: what makes them charming and stylish? Why are you drawn to the outfits?
As I've mentioned before, I think outfits look better when they have "shape and drape." By shape, I mean the outfit confers a distinctive silhouette. If these men took off their clothes, we can reliably guess their bodies would not be shaped like this:
If you're just dipping your toes into tailored clothing, start with a navy sport coat. This is something you can wear with a button-up shirt and pair of trousers, or something as casual as a t-shirt and some jeans. It's easily the most versatile jacket.
Key is to get something with texture so it doesn't look like an orphaned suit jacket. Spier & Mackay has great semi-affordable tailoring. Their navy hopsack Moro is made from pure wool and a half-canvas to give it shape. Classic proportions and soft natural shoulder
There's a pervasive belief that we no longer produce clothes in the United States. This is not true. In this thread, I will tell you about some great made-in-USA brands — some that run their own factories, while others are US brands contracting with US factories. 🧵
I should first note this thread focuses on well-made, stylish clothes produced in ethical conditions. For me, producing in the US is not enough. It means nothing if the clothes are ugly, crappy, or produced in sweatshop conditions. My article for The Nation below.
JEANS
Gustin produces MiUSA jeans using raw Japanese denim. "Raw" means the fabric hasn't been pre-distressed, allowing it to naturally fade with use, reflecting your actual body and lifestyle. I like their fuller 1968 Vintage Straight fit. They also do lots of other stuff.
Let's first establish good vs bad ways to think about style. The first pic is correct — style is a kind of social language and you have to figure out what type of person you are. The second pic is stupid bc it takes style as disconnected objects ("this is in" vs "this is out").
I should also note here that I'm only talking about style. I'm not here to argue with you about ergonomics, water bottle holders, or whether something accommodates your Dell laptop. I'm am talking about aesthetics.
Watch these two videos. Then answer these two questions:
— Which of the two men is better dressed?
— How does each come off?
I think Carney is better dressed, partly because his clothes fit better. Notice that his jacket collar always hugs his neck, while Pierre Poilievre's jacket collar never touches him.