derek guy Profile picture
Jun 28, 2024 19 tweets 11 min read Read on X
Good morning!

Who dresses better? Alpha males or little dogs? Let's explore. 🧵
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Tate's leather trenchcoat has crumpled lapels and is not very practical for the rain.

Pepsi's plastic coat is both functional and stylish. The baby blue trim and little snap button keep this from looking like a tarp. The sneakers are also a nice touch!
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Pool fastened the bottommost button on his suit, thus causing the jacket's front edge to drag. Also, he's missing a tie, and most notably, wearing a beanie.

Blitz knows that beanies are for casualwear, so he wears a charcoal flannel. Black tonal coloring is very death metal. A+
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White dinner jackets can be nice, but Jack's black satin lapels and matching pocket square make his outfit look like a cheap rental. He's also wearing the wrong shirt.

Rinka knows that dinner suits require formal shirts, often those with dress studs. His outfit looks bespoke.
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Almost everyone looks good in a turtleneck. However, Tate's overall appearance is disturbingly smooth.

Koda adds texture, not just with his hair, but also with his chunkier, ribbed turtleneck. He knows that sweaters on their own often look better when they have texture.
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Gunther's glasses are very uncool.

Benny's glasses are very cool.
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Justin says his cowboy boots are more expensive than Jordans. This is incorrect, as many collectible Jordans cost thousands. Not only does this demonstrate ignorance, but gratuitous displays of wealth are gauche, and thus Bad Taste.
When it comes to dressing well, it's skill, not money, that counts. Within the context of traditional dress, both of these outfits have a feminine silhouette. However, Pepper's white cowboy boots fully lean into the look. It's always better to commit to a look.
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Similar problem here. Robes can be great, but Tate's Versace-decorated robe is such a gratuitous display of wealth that it crosses the line into Bad Taste.

Chedder gets ready for bed in PJs and ducky slippers. Much more charming.
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Here we see Tate cooking in a Versace robe. However, here we see a curious detail: the pattern does not match across the pockets. On an authentic Versace robe, the lines should flow across all panels (compare to Floyd). This suggests Tate's robe may be counterfeit.
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Here we see Willow cooking in a cupcake-decorated apron. The pattern on Willow's apron also doesn't match (see how the cupcake cuts off at the edge). However, this apron does not pretend to be something it's not. Points for cuteness and authenticity. Image
Tommy's outfit is confusing: a white jacket with a built-in liner and fake mouton collar, combined with pre-distressed jeans made with a tab at the crotch.

London's outfit similar, but chic. Quilted jacket with grey hoodie, raw denim jeans, and a nice harness. Much better.
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All-black outfits can look chic, but Jake's outfit involves a generic coat with black jeans and blue sneakers. It lacks aesthetic direction.

London is back with a similar outfit, but again, much better. Padded, minimalist coat with grey trim and black beanie. Chic and modern.
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Contrary to what many think, hoodies are great. They're warm, cozy, and have working-class charm. However, Tate's hoodie is too thin and tight.

By contrast, Wilson's hoodie is thicker and looser. Looks closer to the mid-century Champion originals that gave this style meaning. A+
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Pre-distressing isn't necessarily bad, but the detailing on Rogan's cap isn't convincingly done. Combined with the modern military-inspired design, it's a clumsy expression of ruggedness.

Echo's cap isn't special, but it lacks pretense. Looks very 1990s J. Crew. Again 10/10
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The act of smoking a cigar looks bad when it's too obviously performative. Tate's expensive lighter, flashy gold jacket, fat cigar, and seat at a gambling table is all too cliche.

Teddy shows how it's done. He looks relaxed, natural, and not posed. Cap & sunglasses look great
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Justin's sunglasses, like his clothes, are too small for his face.

Diesel knows that, if you're going to err one way or the other, bigger sunglasses are the way to go. Not only are they more protective, but they make you look and feel like a movie star.
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Finally, members of the Proud Boys have been wearing these skull masks to protect their identity. Unfortunately, they have a tendency to slip across the face over the course of a day, ruining the placement of the nose and scary grin.


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Kilo's bread mask isn't as scary, but it has holes for his eyes and nose. This way, he knows that his facial proportions are always correct from the vantage of the viewer. 10/10
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More from @dieworkwear

Jul 15
I disagree that this is an aesthetically pleasing photo. Tristan's outfit ruins it and I'll tell you why. 🧵 Image
I'll assume Tristan is telling the truth when he says he used Photoshop and not AI. If so, this is a very impressive Photoshop job. By removing the scaffold tarp, you reveal more of the building. By removing the other cars, you also achieve more aesthetic coherence. Image
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What is aesthetic coherence? It's the idea that things based on shared history or spirit go together. For instance, I've long said that the Cybertruck could look very cool if you wore certain outfits (futuristic techwear) and lived in a Brutalist home. Image
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Read 15 tweets
Jul 14
Some people are incredulous that you can wear certain shoes without socks, such as leather loafers. Much depends on your body and climate. But I'll tell you one reason why you find this difficult to believe: you buy low quality footwear. 🧵 Image
It's absolutely possible to wear certain shoes without socks. As mentioned in an earlier thread, men have been doing this for over a hundred years. Going sockless makes sense if the outfit is semi-casual (not business clothes). Image
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In fact, if you wear socks with certain footwear styles, such as espadrilles, you will look like you don't know what you're doing. Image
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Read 16 tweets
Jul 13
Tim is right and wrong here. I'll tell you where he's right and where he's wrong. 🧵 Image
It's perfectly fine to wear slip-on shoes without socks. Those who suggest otherwise are simply ignorant and unaware about the history of men's dress.

You don't have to take my word for it. We can go back to Apparel Arts. Image
Apparel Arts was an early 20th century trade publication that taught men how to dress well. It was sent to clothiers and tailors so they could smartly advise their clients, but it later became a public-facing publication under the title "Esquire." Image
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Read 24 tweets
Jul 11
I get this sort of comment all the time, often about bespoke suits or mechanical watches. "These things are boring," "This is only for rich people," or "Who cares?"

Let me tell you a story. 🧵 Image
Before the age of ready-to-wear, men had clothes made for them, either in the home or, if they could afford one, by a tailor. Ready-made clothing was limited to simple workwear, such as what was worn by sailors or miners.

Tailoring shop, 1780: Image
In this older method, a tailor would measure you, sometimes using a string (before the invention of tailor's tape). Then they'd use those measurements to draft a pattern, cut the cloth, and produce a garment. This process is called bespoke. Image
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Read 20 tweets
Jul 11
As I've stated many times, suit jackets and sport coats are made from many layers of material, including haircloth, canvas, and padding. These layers give the garment its structure so it doesn't fall on you like a t-shirt or dress shirt. Image
For the chest and lapels, these layers can be attached to each other using a single-needle roll-padding machine, such as you see here. This is what you'll typically see on factory-made suits (this is a Strobel KA-ED machine). Happens both on the low- and high-end.
Read 7 tweets
Jul 8
I found this reply interesting ("Can those foreign companies open shop in the US?")

I don't think Japanese or South Korean menswear can be made in the US. At least, not without losing something. Let's explore why. 🧵 Image
I should state at the outset that no thread will do Japanese or South Korean fashion justice because these countries are fashion powerhouses. Japan alone covers everything from Yohji Yamamoto to And Wander to WTAPS.

It's Impossible to generalize, but we can discuss aspects. Image
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Let's set the stage: Trump announced that he wants to tax Japanese and South Korean goods 25% starting August 1st. That means if you're a menswear shop in the US importing $1,000 worth of clothes made in Japan or South Korea, you owe the US government $250. Image
Read 24 tweets

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