derek guy Profile picture
Jun 28, 2024 19 tweets 11 min read Read on X
Good morning!

Who dresses better? Alpha males or little dogs? Let's explore. 🧵
Image
Image
Tate's leather trenchcoat has crumpled lapels and is not very practical for the rain.

Pepsi's plastic coat is both functional and stylish. The baby blue trim and little snap button keep this from looking like a tarp. The sneakers are also a nice touch!
Image
Image
Pool fastened the bottommost button on his suit, thus causing the jacket's front edge to drag. Also, he's missing a tie, and most notably, wearing a beanie.

Blitz knows that beanies are for casualwear, so he wears a charcoal flannel. Black tonal coloring is very death metal. A+
Image
Image
White dinner jackets can be nice, but Jack's black satin lapels and matching pocket square make his outfit look like a cheap rental. He's also wearing the wrong shirt.

Rinka knows that dinner suits require formal shirts, often those with dress studs. His outfit looks bespoke.
Image
Image
Almost everyone looks good in a turtleneck. However, Tate's overall appearance is disturbingly smooth.

Koda adds texture, not just with his hair, but also with his chunkier, ribbed turtleneck. He knows that sweaters on their own often look better when they have texture.
Image
Image
Gunther's glasses are very uncool.

Benny's glasses are very cool.
Image
Image
Justin says his cowboy boots are more expensive than Jordans. This is incorrect, as many collectible Jordans cost thousands. Not only does this demonstrate ignorance, but gratuitous displays of wealth are gauche, and thus Bad Taste.
When it comes to dressing well, it's skill, not money, that counts. Within the context of traditional dress, both of these outfits have a feminine silhouette. However, Pepper's white cowboy boots fully lean into the look. It's always better to commit to a look.
Image
Image
Similar problem here. Robes can be great, but Tate's Versace-decorated robe is such a gratuitous display of wealth that it crosses the line into Bad Taste.

Chedder gets ready for bed in PJs and ducky slippers. Much more charming.
Image
Image
Here we see Tate cooking in a Versace robe. However, here we see a curious detail: the pattern does not match across the pockets. On an authentic Versace robe, the lines should flow across all panels (compare to Floyd). This suggests Tate's robe may be counterfeit.
Image
Image
Here we see Willow cooking in a cupcake-decorated apron. The pattern on Willow's apron also doesn't match (see how the cupcake cuts off at the edge). However, this apron does not pretend to be something it's not. Points for cuteness and authenticity. Image
Tommy's outfit is confusing: a white jacket with a built-in liner and fake mouton collar, combined with pre-distressed jeans made with a tab at the crotch.

London's outfit similar, but chic. Quilted jacket with grey hoodie, raw denim jeans, and a nice harness. Much better.
Image
Image
All-black outfits can look chic, but Jake's outfit involves a generic coat with black jeans and blue sneakers. It lacks aesthetic direction.

London is back with a similar outfit, but again, much better. Padded, minimalist coat with grey trim and black beanie. Chic and modern.
Image
Image
Contrary to what many think, hoodies are great. They're warm, cozy, and have working-class charm. However, Tate's hoodie is too thin and tight.

By contrast, Wilson's hoodie is thicker and looser. Looks closer to the mid-century Champion originals that gave this style meaning. A+
Image
Image
Pre-distressing isn't necessarily bad, but the detailing on Rogan's cap isn't convincingly done. Combined with the modern military-inspired design, it's a clumsy expression of ruggedness.

Echo's cap isn't special, but it lacks pretense. Looks very 1990s J. Crew. Again 10/10
Image
Image
The act of smoking a cigar looks bad when it's too obviously performative. Tate's expensive lighter, flashy gold jacket, fat cigar, and seat at a gambling table is all too cliche.

Teddy shows how it's done. He looks relaxed, natural, and not posed. Cap & sunglasses look great
Image
Image
Justin's sunglasses, like his clothes, are too small for his face.

Diesel knows that, if you're going to err one way or the other, bigger sunglasses are the way to go. Not only are they more protective, but they make you look and feel like a movie star.
Image
Image
Finally, members of the Proud Boys have been wearing these skull masks to protect their identity. Unfortunately, they have a tendency to slip across the face over the course of a day, ruining the placement of the nose and scary grin.


Image
Image
Image
Image
Kilo's bread mask isn't as scary, but it has holes for his eyes and nose. This way, he knows that his facial proportions are always correct from the vantage of the viewer. 10/10
Image
Image

• • •

Missing some Tweet in this thread? You can try to force a refresh
 

Keep Current with derek guy

derek guy Profile picture

Stay in touch and get notified when new unrolls are available from this author!

Read all threads

This Thread may be Removed Anytime!

PDF

Twitter may remove this content at anytime! Save it as PDF for later use!

Try unrolling a thread yourself!

how to unroll video
  1. Follow @ThreadReaderApp to mention us!

  2. From a Twitter thread mention us with a keyword "unroll"
@threadreaderapp unroll

Practice here first or read more on our help page!

More from @dieworkwear

Sep 16
Style lessons from Robert Redford, one of the most stylish men in the last century. 🧵 Image
A tailored jacket continues to be one of the most flattering things you can wear. However, for it to look good, it has to fit right. That means a jacket that bisects you halfway from your collar to the floor when you're in heeled shoes. Also trouser + suit jacket silhouette flows Image
Image
It also helps to know how to use this visual language, especially with regard to ideas about formality. For instance, a dark business suit cries out for a tie. If you don't want to wear a tie, try a more casual garment, like a sport coat. Image
Image
Read 19 tweets
Sep 15
Someone yesterday asked me why someone would ask a tailor to make a polo coat in such a way to imitate the look of a machine-made garment.

The answer holds a beautifully little story about the difference between European and American style. 🧵
Let's start with a test. Here are two tan polo coats. One is machine-made. The other is handmade. Can you guess which is which?

Please answer before moving on. Then you can scroll through the answers to see whether most people got it right. Image
Image
Image
Image
The first coat is machine-made. It's from an American ready-to-wear company called J. Press. The second is handmade. It's from a London bespoke tailoring house called Anderson & Sheppard.

You can spot the difference by how the edges are finished. Image
Image
Read 19 tweets
Sep 15
I disagree that Obama wore "slick suits."

Let me tell you about Obama's tailoring. 🧵
I've seen people here suggest Obama was a stylish president. I couldn't disagree more. Outfits like these read better in 2025, but during the slim-fit, Euro style craze of his presidency, Obama was routinely panned for his "frumpy dad style." See Vanity Fair. Image
Image
Image
Image
His style transformation really came post-presidency. I suspect, but don't have proof, that this is partly the influence of his wife, who is quite stylish. Even his suits look better now. See clean shoulder line + shirt collar points reaching lapels + nice four-in-hand dimple. Image
Image
Image
Read 16 tweets
Sep 9
Although it's rarely expressed in outright terms, people often use a very simple heuristic when solving fashion problems: they wish to look rich, which is often disguised as "respectable."

I will show you why this rarely leads to good outfits. 🧵 Image
In 1902, German sociologist Georg Simmel neatly summed up fashion in an essay titled "On Fashion." Fashion, he asserted was simply a game of imitation in which people copy their "social betters." This causes the upper classes to move on, so as to distinguish themselves. Image
He was right. And his theory explains why Edward VIII, the Duke of Windsor, was the most influential menswear figure in the early 20th century. By virtue of his position and taste, he popularized soft collars, belted trousers, cuffs, Fair Isle sweaters, and all sorts of things. Image
Image
Image
Read 25 tweets
Sep 6
It's funny to see people imbue traditional men's tailoring with their own prejudices. They assume every man who wore a suit in the far past must be a staunch conservative like them. The truth is much more complicated. 🧵
This bias, of course, stems out of the 1960s and 70s, from which many of our contemporary politics also spring. I don't need to belabor this point because you already know it. The framing is neatly summed up in this Mad Men scene — the rag tag hippie vs man in a suit.
Thus, people assume that men in suits must always be part of the conservative establishment. But this was not always so. The suit was once a working man's garment. When Keir Hardie, founder of the Labour Party, arrived for his first day in Parliament, he wore a suit. Image
Read 17 tweets
Sep 6
Which of these two jackets do you prefer?

There's no "right" or "wrong" answer here, so feel free to go with your gut. I will then give you my views below. 🧵 Image
Image
In men's tailoring, the area below the jacket's buttoning point is colloquially known as the "quarters" among menswear enthusiasts. Or the "front edge" by actual tailors. These terms refer to the edge of the coat, connecting to lapels. Image
Some suit jackets have very closed quarters, such as you see on the left. In this way, the jacket forms a Y-shaped silhouette.

Other suits have open quarters, such that the front edge sweeps back on the hips, as you see on the right. This forms an X-shaped silhouette. Image
Image
Read 6 tweets

Did Thread Reader help you today?

Support us! We are indie developers!


This site is made by just two indie developers on a laptop doing marketing, support and development! Read more about the story.

Become a Premium Member ($3/month or $30/year) and get exclusive features!

Become Premium

Don't want to be a Premium member but still want to support us?

Make a small donation by buying us coffee ($5) or help with server cost ($10)

Donate via Paypal

Or Donate anonymously using crypto!

Ethereum

0xfe58350B80634f60Fa6Dc149a72b4DFbc17D341E copy

Bitcoin

3ATGMxNzCUFzxpMCHL5sWSt4DVtS8UqXpi copy

Thank you for your support!

Follow Us!

:(