OK, let's do a thread on chic resort wear for a wedding in Mexico. Will make this advice somewhat more generalizable so other people may find it useful. 🧵
If a wedding invite has no dress code, you can never go wrong with a navy suit, white shirt, dark tie, and black or dark brown leather shoes. If the weather will be warm, get a suit made from topical wool, which is an open weave fabric that allows body heat to escape.
If you know the dress code is a little more casual—perhaps it's taking place on the beach or at a resort—then you can try more casual colors or fibers. Linen is a great option (cotton is often tightly woven and will be too warm in hot or humid climates).
Colors are an easy way to make a suit look more festive and joyful. Remember: grey and navy are the traditional business colors, especially in wool. But you can do brown, olive, stone, or a warm shade of tan.
When I hear the wedding calls for a lot of pastels, I think of pink suits. But I'm also careful of recommending you plunk down serious money on a garment that you may not wear often. Personally do tan, as it will fit in but still be something you can wear later.
You can also try specialty fabrics, such as Solaro (woven with two diff colored threads, so it has a shimmer) or seersucker (although I would do a navy tonal seersucker, as the traditional white-and-blue coloring may feel too American Southern at a wedding in Mexico).
IMO, formal suits like a navy worsted cry out for a tie. But casual suits look natural with an open collar. If you don't wear a tie, consider striped shirts to add visual interest. And a collar that can stand up on its own, like a button-down or one-piece collar.
For shoes, consider black or dark brown oxfords when wearing a navy suit with a tie. For something more casual, try derbies or loafers. If your hosts don't give a dress code, the idea is to dress in a way that shows you wish to honor your friends on their special day.
Let's say you want something for rehearsal dinner. You could try a navy sport coat. Or, for something more festive, a cream colored sport coat in linen or an open weave wool. Pair with trousers in mid-grey, olive, or brown.
For going around the resort, try loose cut linen trousers paired with a retro-styled knit and some espadrilles. Or shorts with a camp collared shirt or guayabera. Check companies like Scott Fraser Simpson, Harago, and No Man Walks Alone for these things.
When it comes to cultural items like guayaberas, I think it's better, when possible, to buy from the communities that made these styles cool. So I would check Ramon Puig and Fayad & Co in Florida. Or pick one up when you're in Mexico.
Speaking of stuff to buy in Mexico, I would also shop for a pair of huaraches. These are often handmade leather shoes that involve a lot of craft. I think they're great with summer casualwear—including some of the outfits described above. I like mid-brown closed toe designs
OK, back to this wedding. For just walking around the resort, you can try textured Johnny collar polos (sometimes called a skipper collar), which I think look better than basic tennis polos. Todd Snyder has some nice ones; J Crew is more affordable. Add thin gold chain
Outfits often benefit from having a finishing layer, but when the weather is very warm, sometimes this can be just an open shirt. Try textured fabrics and camp collars. Proper Cloth is an online MTM shirtmaker with endless options. Play with proportions (e.g. high rise pants)
The pre-war menswear publication Apparel Arts is full of info on how to dress at resorts or while on vacation. Their advice sometimes has to be updated a little if you don't want to look too retro. But IMO, the illustrations are still very inspiring.
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I should note this thread is going to run into a problem because I don't criticize non-famous people. There are lots of TikToks showing Harvey's advice in practice. But I won't post people's pics as examples of bad outfits. So you have to work with me on this limitation.
If you haven't seen, this is the famous clip of Harvey suggesting you can turn 5 suits into 75 outfits. The idea is that you can mix and match the jacket and pants, resulting in almost limitless combinations. Please watch it in full before going on with the rest of this thread.
To understand why black tie requires you to cover your waist, it helps to know a little about the history of men's dress. 🧵
Contrary to popular belief, black tie is not formalwear; it's semi-formalwear. True formalwear is full evening dress, also known as "white tie." That involves a long black tailcoat, a white dress shirt with a starched or pique bib, a white pique waistcoat, and a white bow tie.
In the late 1800s, American elites who gathered around NYC's Tuxedo Park wanted a more comfortable alternative to white tie. So they ordered a shorter jacket from Henry Poole called the dinner jacket (because it was worn to dinner). Also known as the tuxedo bc of its origins.
I was recently served this ad on Instagram, which shows a clip of Jesse Watters saying that Otaa Brothers makes the best ties in the world.
Wow, the best ties in the world! So, I looked into it.
On their Instagram page, Otaa has ads like this one below. Their marketing follows a familiar pitch: luxury brands are ripping you off and we sell the same quality for less because we're good blokes. Their ad is reminiscent of "Dollar Shave Club."
Intrigued, I bought one.
So what actually makes a tie high-quality? Lets compare
First is the fabric. A high-quality tie will be made from natural fibers, such as pure silk, wool, cashmere, linen, or cotton. These are from Shibumi Firenze (they're great). Natural materials will feel better in your hand.
An NYT article today about the Claremont Institute, which wants a return to traditional Christian value and aesthetics to match. Larger families, fewer immigrants, classical architecture, a revived conservative art movement, and men in traditional suits.
However, in the same article, the organization's president doesn't seem to even know the language he wishes to speak. A charcoal wool suit with a white shirt is a formal outfit, so it demands a tie. It also requires black shoes, ideally oxfords, not brown derbies.
For some reason, modern photography often makes it so that suits look like the jacket and pants don't match (when they do in real life). I assume that's a charcoal suit. If it's a charcoal jacket with navy trousers, then it's a truly atrocious combination.
hope this chart demonstrates that you can't approach style in this pseudo-scientific way. you have to think of it as cultural language. if you wear 90% of these combos, you will look bad not bc of color theory but because of social norms
why do white dress shirts look good with grey wool trousers? and light blue chambray shirts look good with blue denim jeans? has nothing to do with color theory but rather cultural history.
"What about X color with Y color?"
You can't talk about color combinations without talking about aesthetics, which is in turn rooted in culture. Are you into a classic tailored aesthetic? Workwear? Prep? Avant-garde? Etc. Have to start with culture -> aesthetic -> color.
look at a photo where someone looks good in a t-shirt. what do you notice?
to me, there's often a certain ratio between their torso and legs. 🧵
sometimes this is achieved by the person tucking in their t-shirt. sometimes the person in the photo is sitting down, so you can't really tell what's going on. but there's always a specific ratio between torso and legs: slightly cropped torso, long legs.
sometimes a long t-shirt can look great, as long as its part of an intentional aesthetic. see rick owens, evan kinori, 90s hip hop aesthetics, skater style, etc.