— Tie and square should never look like they came in a matching set. This looks contrived.
— Except for white, solid silks are almost always bad. They make you look like a magician. Or in this case, like you've nicked a pair of women's underwear
Instead, it should look like you've plucked something from a dresser drawer and thrown it into your pocket (but not your wife's underwear drawer). It should look pleasing, but not overly coordinated. This gives the impression of effortlessness, even if you've put in effort.
How does one do this? There are a few ways.
The first is to choose a square with a background color that echos a secondary color in your tie. Here, the patterned burgundy square picks up the burgundy squares on the tie. Coordinates, but doesn't exactly match.
Another way is to choose a square with a main color that complements your tie. Easy way to think of this is the color wheel—colors directly opposite or adjacent typically complement. Here's a brown tie with a green pocket square.
The point is to look put together, but not overly coordinated. This gives the impression of naturalness and effortlessness, even if you happened to have put a lot of thought into this.
When in doubt, you will never go wrong with a solid white linen pocket square. Get one with hand rolled edges so it doesn't look like you've stuffed napkin in your pocket.
Most people don't wear ties nowadays. If you don't, then the choice is even easier: choose a patterned square that simply looks good in your pocket.
Finally, always stuff your square into your pocket, don't do one of these origami folds like Pres. Johnson. The exception is white linen squares neatly folded into what's sometimes called a TV fold (you can look it up).
illustration by IG ryancecil
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This is nothing personal to Ryan Reynolds. but he consistently wears his pants too tight, so his photos are illustrative.
Here's something easy you can check for when buying pants. 🧵
Broadly speaking, there are two types of pant pockets: ones where you put your hands in from the top (as you'd find on jeans) and ones where you'd put your hands in from the side (such as you'd find on wool trousers and most chinos). This discussion is only for the second type
If you're buying pants with side entry pockets, try them on, stand naturally, and look to see if your pockets flare out like this.
Mongolia's Olympic uniforms are lovely. But what's up with the wording on this tweet? Is the insinuation that we don't do the same? Let's talk about how the USA Olympics uniform connects to our heritage, culture, and history. 🧵
Note, while there are women on the US Olympics team, I will be talking about this from the perspective of menswear because that's what I know.
First, let's review the main elements of the uniform: an unusually trimmed navy jacket, some blue jeans, and a pair of white shoes.
To understand the language of classic American dress (again, from a menswear perspective), you have to go back to 1818 when Henry Sands Brooks opened a clothing store on the corner of Catherine and Cherry streets in Manhattan. This store would revolutionize American dress.
First, what makes something feel cool? There are three factors: fiber, weight, and weave. Most shirt fabrics fall within a narrow range in terms of weight, so we can eliminate that dimension. This leaves us to discuss fiber and weave.
Linen is a great material for summer shirts because it wicks moisture from your skin, transferring it to the other side and allowing it to quickly dissipate. You can test this by washing two shirts—one linen, one cotton—and letting them air dry. See which dries faster.
Should luxury clothes be handmade? Let's talk about it. 🧵
First, is there any material benefit to doing things by hand? Much depends on the item and process. It also depends on who's making it. For serious nerds, here is an article from a 1932 issue of Apparel Arts, a menswear trade publication at the time.
I realize most people are not going to read all that, so here's the relevant excerpt. Even 92 years ago, tailors wrestled with this question. The issue is less about handmade vs machine-made, but the SKILL of the person involved.
When it comes to brimmed hats, large hats are actually easier to wear. By large, I mean something with a larger brim. A larger brim is often more flattering and doesn't carry the social baggage of "actually it's a trilby"
IG dick.carroll
If you wear tailored clothing in the summertime, a straw hat is an easy choice. Personally think a darker sisal is easier to wear than a bright white Panama, but both are nice. You can find these from Lock & Co., Optimo, and Brent Black. Yellow 108 is rougher and more casual
OK, let's do a thread on chic resort wear for a wedding in Mexico. Will make this advice somewhat more generalizable so other people may find it useful. 🧵
If a wedding invite has no dress code, you can never go wrong with a navy suit, white shirt, dark tie, and black or dark brown leather shoes. If the weather will be warm, get a suit made from topical wool, which is an open weave fabric that allows body heat to escape.
If you know the dress code is a little more casual—perhaps it's taking place on the beach or at a resort—then you can try more casual colors or fibers. Linen is a great option (cotton is often tightly woven and will be too warm in hot or humid climates).