derek guy Profile picture
Aug 27 14 tweets 8 min read Read on X
Kids never get it wrong. And even when they style clothes in a slightly off way, it only looks more awesome. But here is a guide on how adults can match patterns. 🧵
Edward VIII, later known as the Duke of Windsor, was one of the most stylish men of the 20th century. He popularized belts, zippered flies, cuffed trousers, and a style of tailoring known as the drape cut. He was also a master at matching patterns.
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Of course, he had to be. In September 1997, Sotheby's auctioned off a portion of the Duke and Duchess of Windsor's wardrobes. And inside the catalog, we got to see photos of the Duke of Windsor's actual closet. Look at all those patterns!


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Despite wearing a lot of patterns, the Duke always looked good because he (mostly) stuck to a simple rule: when combining patterns, vary the scale, intensity, and sometimes design. Here we see him in 1967 wearing a Sutherland check suit with a windowpane shirt and paisley tie.
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I say "mostly" because sometimes he wore things in exact matching patterns. Like this necktie seemingly made from the same material as his shirt. Frankly, this is not recommended unless you are the Duke of Windsor or Muppets creator Jim Henson.
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The problem with wearing patterns that are too close in scale is that you can easily end up with a moiré effect. Think of what happens when you lay two identical mesh screens over each other. The repetitiveness of the patterns can look dizzying.
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Compare that to these outfits, which mix three patterns, but all different stripes that vary in scale and intensity. Your eyes comfortably rest on the boldness of the tie, while the shirt and suit play supporting roles.
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Such ideas need not be limited to tailored clothing. Here's Kurt Cobain wearing a jacket with a bold leopard pattern, which he's paired with a subtle South Asian patterned shirt and graphic tee. Vogue employed a similar idea for their 1992 issue on grunge style.
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The more patterns you throw in, the harder it is to juggle. Here's the most difficult of all: four patterns. But it works bc the suit is a fine herringbone, tie is widely spaced squares, and the shirt and pocket square are somewhere between in terms of scale. Image
Personally, I think tailored outfits look better when there's some texture or pattern somewhere to help break up what could be a lot of monotony. Pete Buttigieg's outfit at the DNC was a little *too* plain, I thought. Obama's use of a jacquard tie was better.
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If you're putting together a coat-and-tie outfit, consider throwing in two patterns. This is enough to add visual interest without requiring you to pay too much attention to whether any of the patterns are too close in scale. Pattern can be in tie and square, or tie and jacket.


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When going tie-less, even a patterned shirt can help add some useful visual interest. Image
But again, there's no wrong way for kids to dress. The more experimentation and creativity, the better. Childhood is a time for expression, so they should wear whatever makes them happy.
But for adults looking for guidance, there are some simple ideas to increase your chance of success: vary the scale and intensity of the pattern. Beware of the moiré effect. And when in doubt, limit yourself to just two patterns, which is an easy way to look better.
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More from @dieworkwear

Aug 25
i dont think the ideas around dressing for an athletic figure are that much different from dressing other types of figures. the central prob is that many athletic men have bad taste and think clothes have to fit skin tight to look good, as they want to show off their body 🧵
my friend @urban_comp has a pretty athletic figure. and here you can see three things

— voluminous overcoat
— rounded bomber
— classic tailoring

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the proportions btw these two outfits are not that different: jacket ends halfway from collar to the floor, shoulders have enough breadth to not pull on the sleevehead, trousers are not overly tight and thus flow into jacket's silhouette
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Read 14 tweets
Aug 24
But RFK doesn't look good? He's the worst dressed major politician in this election cycle. Here are some ways he could look better. 🧵
RFK has a very athletic build, which may account for why his jacket's collar often lifts from his neck. It's fine for a jacket's collar to sometimes lift off your neck — be realistic — but RFK's collar gap is so bad that you know it's an issue of fit.
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It's possible to get tailoring that fits an athletic figure well. But depending on the extremeness of your "drop" (difference between chest and waist measurement), you may need custom. Key is to get something that doesn't fit like saran wrap. This is good:
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Read 10 tweets
Aug 24
I occasionally get asked what type of tie someone should wear to a wedding. If it's your wedding, then wear what you please. But if you want a suggestion, silk ties — solid or patterned — that resolve to a silver at a distance work well. I will explain why 🧵 Image
Things such as rep stripes and foulards are lovely, but when paired with a dark worsted suit, sometimes you can look like you're headed to a board meeting. Which doesn't convey the kind of celebratory spirit that should be at a wedding. Image
Yet, you also want something tasteful (this will help photos age well). So one solution is to get what are colloquially known as "wedding ties." These are ties with black, white, and grey patterns that resolve to a silver at a distance.

Some examples from Kent Wang:


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Read 6 tweets
Aug 22
One reason is because it looks better. 🧵
Over the last 100 years, men's tailoring has become more austere. Just look at how the Duke of Windsor dressed in the 1930s and how Ronald Reagan dressed by the close of the century. (Pic 1 shows a section of the Duke's personal wardrobe)
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Or pick up a copy of Apparel Arts, the leading men's style publication in the 1930s. Inside each issue, they included fabric swatches, which showed the variation in texture, pattern, and sheen
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Read 12 tweets
Aug 18
People who don't know much about clothes always reduce the topic to trends and status signaling. But clothing can illuminate almost any topic about society. 🧵 Image
How did French leaders go from the lavish garb of Louis XIV to the monochromatic sobriety of Macron? You can't tell this story without talking about the rise of the Second British Empire.
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Similarly, how did the suit, once the uniform of lowly clerks and shopkeepers, eclipse the more formal frock coat (preferred by the ruling class)? Again, you can't tell this story without talking about the emergence of modern bourgeois life.
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Read 14 tweets
Aug 18
Alain Delon passed away tonight and I'm again reminded that we're losing a generation of men who possessed an incredible sense of style. But what made Delon's style so extraordinary? Let's explore. 🧵 Image
To be sure, one can't discount the fact that Delon was extremely handsome, talented, and famous. All of these qualities added to his magnetism. However, many men today have these qualities, but not Delon's style. Why is this?

It's partly because Delon always looked comfortable. Image
He looked comfortable because his clothes weren't suction fit. Check out this blue silk suit in the film Purple Noon. Notice:

— No straining
— Buttoning point at waist
— Jacket ends halfway from collar to floor
— Trousers are not overly slim
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Read 19 tweets

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