I don't know anything about womenswear, but I've never understood the handwringing over Aran sweaters in menswear. They are everywhere. Here are some. 🧵
O'Connell's is a super trady shop in Buffalo, New York. They sell sack suits, madras shirts, Shetland knits, and the type of stuff you associate with 1950s Brooks Brotehers. They have Aran knits, including new old stock from the 80s and 90s (give em a call).
2. Inverallan
This family-run company based in Scotland is big in Japan. They were also a favorite among menswear forum nerds for a while. They have Aran pullovers and cardigans. Search for a retailer near you, as they're globally distributed.
3. Inis Meain
One of the few companies that produces on the Aran Islands (Inishmaan specifically). Most others are just imports with an Ireland label). Even in pure merino, these are super lux and soft. Very much a lux version of the traditional fisherman sweater.
4. Aran Sweater Market
I haven't tried them, but they got a few good reviews on the menswear forums I used to be on. The "Clan sweaters" look better to me than the mainline. Prices are relatively affordable and they have discount codes all the time.
5. Kesennuma Knitting
A knitting co-op in the north-east region of Japan. They do made-to-order Aran sweaters, among other things. Might be a good option for people who can't find their size in ready-to-wear.
6. eBay
Of course, you can also go to eBay or Etsy, where there are thousands of vintage Aran knits for like $50 to $75. I would try to find something made from pure wool and carries a "made in Ireland" label, just because I think it makes the knit more interesting.
Some other places you can check out: The Andover Shop, J. Press, LL Bean, Orvis, and No Man Walks Alone.
And while it's not technically an Aran knit, Flamborough Marine's handknitted bespoke ganseys are very charming, albeit itchy (wear over a collared shirt).
If you want to get nerdy about it, I think it's nice to get something with a lot of texture. Below is a modern Inis Meain knit (machine-made, hand-linked) and a vintage Glenshee Woollens bought from O'Connell's. The Glenshee has a lot more texture, which I think is nice.
IMO, when people see this comparison, what they really want is a thick sweater with a lot of shape and drape (fullness). But realize that a thick sweater will feel very warm. There are trade-offs.
Sometimes volume can be achieved by just sizing up. But when you do, pay attention to the length. It's easier to wear a baggy sweater when it's not super long.
When shopping for an Aran knit, consider exactly what qualities you're looking for: soft vs rugged, baggy vs slim, thin vs thick, fiber content, location of production, etc. I assure you, whatever you want is still available on the market.
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Let's first establish good vs bad ways to think about style. The first pic is correct — style is a kind of social language and you have to figure out what type of person you are. The second pic is stupid bc it takes style as disconnected objects ("this is in" vs "this is out").
I should also note here that I'm only talking about style. I'm not here to argue with you about ergonomics, water bottle holders, or whether something accommodates your Dell laptop. I'm am talking about aesthetics.
Watch these two videos. Then answer these two questions:
— Which of the two men is better dressed?
— How does each come off?
I think Carney is better dressed, partly because his clothes fit better. Notice that his jacket collar always hugs his neck, while Pierre Poilievre's jacket collar never touches him.
The level of craftsmanship that goes into a lot of Japanese menswear simply doesn't exist in the United States. You can do this for many categories — suits, jeans, hats, etc.
In this thread, I will show you just one category: men's shoes 🧵
For this comparison, I will focus on Japanese bespoke shoemaking vs. US ready-to-wear. The level of bespoke craftsmanship shown here simply doesn't exist in the US, so a Japanese bespoke vs. US bespoke comparison would be unfair. US bespoke is mostly about orthopedic work.
So instead, I will focus on the best that the US has to offer: ready-to-wear Alden.
On a basic level, top-end Japanese shoes are better because they are handwelted, whereas Alden shoes are Goodyear welted. The first involves more handwork and can be resoled more often.
In 1999, a group of Haitians were tired of political disorder and dreamed of a better life in the United States. So they built a small, 23-foot boat by hand using pine trees, scrap wood, and used nails. They called the boat "Believe in God." 🧵
In a boat powered by nothing but a sail, they somehow made it from Tortuga Island to the Bahamas (about a 90 mile distance). Then from the Bahamas, they set sail again. But a few days and some hundred miles later, their makeshift boat began to sink.
The men on the boat were so dehydrated this point, one slipped in and out of consciousness, unable to stand. They were all resigned to their death.
Luckily, they were rescued at the last minute by the US Coast Guard.
After this post went viral, I called Caroline Groves, a world-class bespoke shoemaker, to discuss how women's shoes are made. I normally don't talk about womenswear, but I found the information interesting, so I thought I would share what I learned here. 🧵
Footwear is broadly broken into two categories: bespoke and ready-to-wear. In London, bespoke makers, including those for women, are largely focused on traditional styles, such as wingtip derbies and loafers. Emiko Matsuda is great for this.
In Paris, there's Massaro, a historic firm that has been operating since 1894, now owned by Chanel. Their designs are less about creating the women's equivalent of traditional men's footwear and more about things such as heels or creative styles. Aesthetic is still "traditional."
Earlier today, Roger Stone announced his partnership with a menswear company, where together they've released a collection of tailored clothing items.
Here is my review of those pieces. 🧵
The line is mostly comprised of suits and sport coats, supplemented with dress shirts and one pair of odd trousers (tailor-speak for a pair of pants made without a matching jacket). Suits start at $1,540; sport coats are $1,150. One suit is $5,400 bc it's made from Scabal fabric
Let's start with the good points. These are fully canvassed jackets, meaning a free floating canvas has been tacked onto the face fabric to give it some weight and structure. This is better than a half-canvas and fully fused construction, but requires more time and labor.