derek guy Profile picture
Oct 6 26 tweets 9 min read Read on X
I want to show you how to get some deals on eBay. Since I write about menswear, this thread will be focused on men's clothing and accessories. But my guess is that you can apply these tricks to other categories. 🧵 Image
Most people use eBay in a very straightforward manner. They go to the website and type something into the search bar. Sometimes that's description of an item, such as vintage Aran sweaters. Or it's the name of a brand, such as Hermes or Louis Vuitton.
eBay is full of deals, so even if you use these techniques, you will likely pay less than retail. But if you use the site like everyone else, you reduce your chances of scoring bigger deals. That's because you're competing with a larger group of people. Image
So my first tip is that you should learn how to use eBay's full search capabilities. There are two parts to this.

First, learn how to do Boolean searches. I've typed up a little cheatsheet. If you bookmark this tweet, you can save it for later. Image
OK, now you know how to do a Boolean search on eBay. Once you've searched for something, I want you to click the box for "include description." This allows your search to cover auction titles AND descriptions. Why is this important? Because auction descriptions have a lot of info Image
It's no longer the case that country-of-origin labels are a reliable indicator of quality. There are plenty of things made in the US that are shoddy (e.g., Fashion Nova) and things made abroad that are great (e.g., RRL items from China) Image
However, it *used to be* the case that things made in Western Europe and the United States were pretty good. So if you know something about the history of men's clothing, you can use this info to your advantage.
For instance, for better or worse, the Scottish cashmere industry has mostly failed to modernize its ways, which has largely led to a collapse. Scottish knitwear is not as fashionable as Italian knits or as cheap as Chinese ones. Image
So if you're looking for that old quality, traditional style cashmere in grandpa's closet, do a Boolean search for (Scotland, Scottish) cashmere. This will bring up everything with Scottish cashmere OR Scotland cashmere in the title.

Look! 1,100+ results for $50+ luxury knits Image
*Billy Mays voice* But wait! There's more.

Now I want you to click the box for "include description." This gives us everything that says Scottish cashmere or Scotland cashmere in the title OR description. This increases the number of our results. Image
Here's a cashmere Barrie sweater for $83. In 2012, Chanel bought Barrie when the mill was on the brink of bankruptcy because the luxury giant considered them to be critical to their production. This $83 knit will be much better than what you can find for a similar price new Image
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This system of drilling down to reputable names and country-of-origin labels can be applied to giant brands such as Ralph Lauren and Brooks Brothers. The problem with searching for Ralph Lauren is that you will get a ton of dreck—crappy polos and lower-end labels like Chaps. Image
But if I do a Boolean search for ("Ralph Lauren") England and click "include descriptions," I will get all the Ralph Lauren items that were made in England. This is important because Ralph will not produce a low quality item in England, as labor costs there are higher.
This pulls up much higher quality items, such as $100 made-in-England boots and cashmere slippers. The boots are Goodyear welted and made from full grain leather. Fewer people will stumble upon these because it's a pain to wade through a gazillion Ralph Lauren auctions. Image
I can do the same for other big brands, such as Brooks Brothers (who historically relied on American and British manufacturers for their higher-end products). Attending a black tie event? Here are some made-in-England patent leather shoes for $65. Image
The third trick is to not rely on eBay's US site, which is distinguished by the "dot com" domain. Instead, visit eBay UK or eBay France. Or do a Google search for eBay in other countries.
There are two advantages to this. First, eBay UK and France (or any other country) often gets less traffic than eBay US. Less traffic means less competition, which means lower prices. Second, you can drill down on those countries specialities.
For instance, Cordings is an old-school country outfitter based in London's famous Piccadilly arcade. Given their location, it's easier to find stuff from this shop on eBay UK than eBay US. So we find this $91 covert topcoat (needs a pressing and some repair, but good price) Image
France is famous for its leather goods, so over at eBay France, we can find leather watch straps from one of the finest makers in the world, Camille Fournet. Price is $72 (much less than the $250 or so this would cost in a store). Image
I should note, this method requires you to know a little about men's stye. It helps to know the names of less famous, but reputable brands, particular dead labels once renowned. It also helps to know how to read manufacturing labels.
I can tell you those $100 Ralph Lauren boots were made at Crockett & Jones' Northampton factory because this is how they label the inside of their shoes. (Crockett & Jones boots are like $700 new.) Image
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I can't possibly give you complete guide to everything because doing so will require writing about the history of menswear, dead labels, and factories. But if you stick with the subject, you will eventually pick up bits of info, which you can combine with these eBay tricks
Of course, you can always do simple searches for things such as Carhartt, Dickies, and lesser-known workwear labels such as Big Mac. If you're open to workwear, it will be pretty easy to cobble together an affordable, stylish wardrobe on a budget. Image
I also do regular roundups for cool menswear stuff I find on eBay and post them at Put This On. The aesthetic tends to revolve around classic tailoring, workwear, and slightly off-beat Japanese labels.

putthison.com/tag/ebay-round…
When shopping on eBay, always compare measurements to stuff you already own. If the seller doesn't post measurements, ask for them. Try to shop from sellers who allow for free and easy returns. And be comfortable with getting stuff that doesn't work out—that's part of the process Image
This should say "quotation marks," not "apostrophes." Sorry for the typo. Hopefully it's obvious from the text.

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More from @dieworkwear

Oct 17
Ironically, Mike Crispi is the one wearing a foreign tie. 🧵
Most of our "rules" around traditional men's dress derive from England, partly because London used to be the center of men's tailoring and partly because the suit is a British invention. In the UK, ties are not always purely decorative. The designs can be coded with meaning. Image
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You may have heard the term regimental or rep tie (this is different from repp silk tie, which refers to a type of silk twill). A regimental or rep tie signals belonging to some organization. In the UK, it's considered gauche to wear one without any association or membership.
Read 14 tweets
Oct 16
Fabric comes in different weights. In the menswear industry, this is measured in ounces or grams per square meter. American tailors tend to use ounces; Europeans and Asian tailors tend to use grams. Here we see swatches from Draper's Ascot book ranging from 8oz to 12oz. Image
In men's tailoring, 12-14oz is considered midweight. Anything less than 12 oz is lightweight; anything above 14oz is heavyweight. Once you get above 18oz, this is considered "coating" weight, which is to say it's typically used for overcoats. Image
Read 15 tweets
Oct 16
Pretty remarkable how everyone in these photos is well dressed. Let's run through some of the outfits and what makes them great. 🧵
Please note that this thread is not meant to be a comment on politics, the Troubles, or Irish history. Only about why everyday people in the past seemed to have dressed better.
We'll start with Detective Inspector George Johnston, who appears to be wearing a suit, dress shirt, and tie, along with a striking raglan sleeved, knee-length overcoat. Image
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Read 26 tweets
Oct 15
Men look better with some kind of neckwear. Let's run through some examples. 🧵 Image
Neckwear doesn't have to mean a tie, although it includes ties. See how Jason Jules incorporates everything from neckerchiefs to scarves to floppy silk knit ties (the most casual kind of necktie). Image
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Yasuto Kamoshita employs the same things. In the third slide, you can see how a neckerchief peeks out from beneath his sweater. Image
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Read 12 tweets
Oct 13
Let's talk about minimalism as an aesthetic in menswear. 🧵 Image
First, the coat in question. Samuel is referring to the coat on the left, which is just a slimmed up, truncated version of a single-breasted mac. This blue coat is made with a zip front and technical fabric. The originals had buttons and fit more like the ones on the right. Image
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IMO, it's wrong to describe that coat as being part of the minimalist tradition. Instead, it flows from a different history. In the early 2000s, designers such as Hedi Slimane and Thom Browne shrank men's silhouettes as a counter reaction to the voluminous clothes of the 1990s. Image
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Read 19 tweets
Oct 12
Here's a thread on where to buy high-waisted trousers for men. 🧵
Caveat: this thread covers a wide range of styles and prices. It's written for a general audience, not any specific person. So please don't get mad if some style or price doesn't fit your specific needs. Take what's useful; leave what's not.
The first and most obvious is any store that specializes in traditional men's clothes, particularly with a clientele that skews towards older men. In the US, such stores include O'Connell's, J. Press, The Andover Shop, and H. Stockton. Image
Read 22 tweets

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