I want to show you how to get some deals on eBay. Since I write about menswear, this thread will be focused on men's clothing and accessories. But my guess is that you can apply these tricks to other categories. 🧵
Most people use eBay in a very straightforward manner. They go to the website and type something into the search bar. Sometimes that's description of an item, such as vintage Aran sweaters. Or it's the name of a brand, such as Hermes or Louis Vuitton.
eBay is full of deals, so even if you use these techniques, you will likely pay less than retail. But if you use the site like everyone else, you reduce your chances of scoring bigger deals. That's because you're competing with a larger group of people.
So my first tip is that you should learn how to use eBay's full search capabilities. There are two parts to this.
First, learn how to do Boolean searches. I've typed up a little cheatsheet. If you bookmark this tweet, you can save it for later.
OK, now you know how to do a Boolean search on eBay. Once you've searched for something, I want you to click the box for "include description." This allows your search to cover auction titles AND descriptions. Why is this important? Because auction descriptions have a lot of info
It's no longer the case that country-of-origin labels are a reliable indicator of quality. There are plenty of things made in the US that are shoddy (e.g., Fashion Nova) and things made abroad that are great (e.g., RRL items from China)
However, it *used to be* the case that things made in Western Europe and the United States were pretty good. So if you know something about the history of men's clothing, you can use this info to your advantage.
For instance, for better or worse, the Scottish cashmere industry has mostly failed to modernize its ways, which has largely led to a collapse. Scottish knitwear is not as fashionable as Italian knits or as cheap as Chinese ones.
So if you're looking for that old quality, traditional style cashmere in grandpa's closet, do a Boolean search for (Scotland, Scottish) cashmere. This will bring up everything with Scottish cashmere OR Scotland cashmere in the title.
Look! 1,100+ results for $50+ luxury knits
*Billy Mays voice* But wait! There's more.
Now I want you to click the box for "include description." This gives us everything that says Scottish cashmere or Scotland cashmere in the title OR description. This increases the number of our results.
Here's a cashmere Barrie sweater for $83. In 2012, Chanel bought Barrie when the mill was on the brink of bankruptcy because the luxury giant considered them to be critical to their production. This $83 knit will be much better than what you can find for a similar price new
This system of drilling down to reputable names and country-of-origin labels can be applied to giant brands such as Ralph Lauren and Brooks Brothers. The problem with searching for Ralph Lauren is that you will get a ton of dreck—crappy polos and lower-end labels like Chaps.
But if I do a Boolean search for ("Ralph Lauren") England and click "include descriptions," I will get all the Ralph Lauren items that were made in England. This is important because Ralph will not produce a low quality item in England, as labor costs there are higher.
This pulls up much higher quality items, such as $100 made-in-England boots and cashmere slippers. The boots are Goodyear welted and made from full grain leather. Fewer people will stumble upon these because it's a pain to wade through a gazillion Ralph Lauren auctions.
I can do the same for other big brands, such as Brooks Brothers (who historically relied on American and British manufacturers for their higher-end products). Attending a black tie event? Here are some made-in-England patent leather shoes for $65.
The third trick is to not rely on eBay's US site, which is distinguished by the "dot com" domain. Instead, visit eBay UK or eBay France. Or do a Google search for eBay in other countries.
There are two advantages to this. First, eBay UK and France (or any other country) often gets less traffic than eBay US. Less traffic means less competition, which means lower prices. Second, you can drill down on those countries specialities.
For instance, Cordings is an old-school country outfitter based in London's famous Piccadilly arcade. Given their location, it's easier to find stuff from this shop on eBay UK than eBay US. So we find this $91 covert topcoat (needs a pressing and some repair, but good price)
France is famous for its leather goods, so over at eBay France, we can find leather watch straps from one of the finest makers in the world, Camille Fournet. Price is $72 (much less than the $250 or so this would cost in a store).
I should note, this method requires you to know a little about men's stye. It helps to know the names of less famous, but reputable brands, particular dead labels once renowned. It also helps to know how to read manufacturing labels.
I can tell you those $100 Ralph Lauren boots were made at Crockett & Jones' Northampton factory because this is how they label the inside of their shoes. (Crockett & Jones boots are like $700 new.)
I can't possibly give you complete guide to everything because doing so will require writing about the history of menswear, dead labels, and factories. But if you stick with the subject, you will eventually pick up bits of info, which you can combine with these eBay tricks
Of course, you can always do simple searches for things such as Carhartt, Dickies, and lesser-known workwear labels such as Big Mac. If you're open to workwear, it will be pretty easy to cobble together an affordable, stylish wardrobe on a budget.
I also do regular roundups for cool menswear stuff I find on eBay and post them at Put This On. The aesthetic tends to revolve around classic tailoring, workwear, and slightly off-beat Japanese labels.
When shopping on eBay, always compare measurements to stuff you already own. If the seller doesn't post measurements, ask for them. Try to shop from sellers who allow for free and easy returns. And be comfortable with getting stuff that doesn't work out—that's part of the process
This should say "quotation marks," not "apostrophes." Sorry for the typo. Hopefully it's obvious from the text.
Not true. I'll give you some examples of when styles crossed over from womenswear to menswear, and how men have worn straight-up womenswear or just feminine styles in cool ways. 🧵
We should first recognize that gender codes are socially constructed. Clothing is not inherently masculine or feminine—codes are contextual and can change over time. Aristocratic men once wore bright red heels. Then they became womenswear until that notion was challenged again.
Plenty of things started on the womenswear side of the aisle before crossing over into men's. Prior to the 20th century, men carried pocket watches and only women wore wristwatches. The humble t-shirt began as the top of union suits, which was once considered women's underwear.
During the early 20th century, when labor was more divided by gender, the US Dept. of Agriculture organized youth clubs orientated around developing certain skills. Chief among them were clothing clubs, which taught young girls how to cut, mend, and sew clothing.
In her book The Lost Art of Dress, historian Linda Przybyszewski estimates that more than 324,000 girls participated in clothing clubs (cooking clubs were a distant second with half as many members). The US gov also funded home economics education, which taught similar skills.
I don't know anything about womenswear, but I've noticed that women's tailoring is typically free of the problems I commonly see on men. I had dinner with a bespoke tailor last night who explained why this may be so. A thread for those interested. 🧵
Disclosure: I don't know how the patterns were drafted for the clothes featured in this thread. That would make a big difference in how they should be judged. But for the purpose of this thread, I'll assume they're ready-to-wear or designer (i.e., adjusted off a block pattern).
One thing I notice is that women's tailoring typically features a high armhole. For instance, at last year's DNC, every politician who made a speech raised their hand at some point. On men, this typically resulted in their jacket lifting. But not so on women.
First, some basics. It's easier to dress like this if you involve some kind of activity. I suggest going out to a nice restaurant or bar. Or going to a party or an evening show. You can also dress like this just to have fun in the city (e.g., going to the museum).
Another thing: there are elements in this outfit that may be harder to pull off, such as the hair-on-hide coat. Can you try? Yes, of course, but it's more of a statement piece. Needs the right haircut/ personal vibe.
It's interesting to see how gender in aesthetics is constantly a moving target. Will explain how four outfits from today's Todd Snyder FW25 show were once considered very masculine, but now may not because men perform disinterest in clothes. 🧵
The first is straightforward: single-breasted, notch lapel suit made from grey herringbone tweed. My guess is that this model is wearing a size up for styling purposes (gives him some swagger). The cut you'll try in-store will probably be a little slimmer.
Of course, tweed is that prickly woolen that British men once wore while playing sport in the countryside. It used to be that men's wardrobes were strictly divided between town (London) and country, but such rules broke down over time. Hence the phrase "tweed in the city."
Before Europeans landed in North America, the Pacific Northwest was populated by the Coast Salish people, who had been here for thousands of years. During the 19th century, many made a living by selling woven blankets to traders. The blankets typically featured geometric designs.
Business dried up in the late 19th century as the market was flooded with Hudson Bay Point blankets, so Coast Salish people picked up knitting needles. This was the birth of the Cowichan sweater, which combined old Coast Salish weaving practices with European knitting techniques.