Harris Tweed is the only fabric that's legally protected. Just as Bordeaux wine has to be from the Bordeaux region of France, any fabric bearing this stamp has to be woven in the Outer Hebrides, finished in the Outer Hebrides, and made from wool dyed & spun in the Outer Hebrides.
The Outer Hebrides is Scotland's Wild West. In his 1973 book, WH Murray wrote that the region's most important climatic feature are the gale force winds. If you ask an islander for tomorrow's forecast, he won't say dry, wet, or sunny, but quote a figure from the Beaufort Scale.
For that reason, the local blackface sheep have a thicker, coarser, stronger fleece. They used to be the only wool source for Harris Tweed, although nowadays, the fabric can be woven from wool sourced from Cheviots. They have a softer fleece.
The production of Harris Tweed used to be done by crofters (such as tenant farmers), who used the material for living and trading. It was not uncommon for someone to pay rent with blankets or lengths of clò-mòr. Which is to say there were hundreds or thousands of producers.
Today, this production is consolidated into three mills. They do the work of grading and sorting the fleece, washing it, dyeing and carding the fibers, and then spinning them into yarn. This material is then arranged in the form of beams or bobbins. From National Geographic:
In the video above, you can see how the wool is dyed into brilliant colors. This material is then mixed together. When spun into yarn and woven into cloth, you get this interesting depth that's not just flat brown or yellow, but a color that reflects the richly colored landscape.
The main thing to know about Harris Tweed is that it's the most widely used hand-loomed fabric for men's tailoring. By hand-loomed, I mean the mills send bobbins or beams to independent weavers who work with just their hands and feet (no automation or electricity).
This weaving typically takes place in a shed located steps from the weaver's home. In the olden days, weavers used Hattersley single-width looms. Today, some operate Bonas-Griffith double-width looms to produce softer, lighter fabrics (ones made from that Cheviot woo)l.
In the past, men primarily did the weaving, while women did the waulking (the soaking of tweed in urine, then stretching and thumping it to shrink and soften it; material would later be hand washed). Women sang songs in chorus to lighten the work and keep rhythm.
Today, that finishing process is done industrially and without urine, although the weaving is done in the same was it has for generations: by foot and hand on an old loom stored in a drafty shed. From an old Esquire series:
The thing about Harris Tweed is that it's ... rough. It's pricklier than other types of tweeds partly because it's typically made from that locally sourced blackface sheep wool (stronger, coarser wool). IMO, it's best for outerwear such as sport coats and overcoats.
If you get trousers, you will need to get them fully lined. Or you need to have your own fleece, which is to say hairy legs.
If you want something lighter, softer, and more comfortable, you can try Breanish tweed.
Breanish doesn't qualify as Harris Tweed bc it's not purely made from locally sourced wool, but it's still handloomed on the island using an old single-width loom that was purchased with a bottle of whisky. Since they use a mix of materials, like cashmere, the cloth is softer.
So that's what happens on that island. If you're buying custom clothes, then Harris Tweed can be sourced from Harrisons Fine Worsted. If you're buying ready-to-wear, many clothiers will stock Harris Tweed sport coat: Drake's, Ben Silver, J. Press, Ralph Lauren, among the many.
Harris Tweed is certainly not the only type of tweed. The garments below are made in other regions and from other types of wool. But it's the only one that's legally protected. If you see something with the Harris Tweed logo (the orb), you now know the backstory.
Forgot to add: if you want something relatively affordable, lots of Etsy sellers make notebooks, eyewear sleeves, and pen cases from Harris Tweed.
And while not made from Harris Tweed or even tweed at all, I also like Waverley Scotland notebooks, which have nice tartan covers.
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I politely disagree. The modern standard for business attire is not black or navy suits with ties. It's worse; it's business casual. This gives you none of the flattering effects of tailoring or the creativity possible in genuine casualwear. 🧵
This change happened in the postwar period. After the Second World War, American civil conflict could be read off people's backs. The establishment was represented by Gregory Peck in The Man in the Gray Flannel Suit; the antiestablishment was Marlon Brando in The Wild One.
Against the backdrop of the Civil Rights movement, feminist movement, and anti-war protests, many people no longer wanted to be associated with the suit. This is especially true after Watergate. Even though libs wore it, the suit increasingly became coded as "conservative."
Had this saved in my bookmarks because I wanted to answer it. Funny enough, I think Senator Sheldon Whitehouse is one of the better dressed US politicians, but only in a very specific way that will appeal to a very small group of people. 🧵
First, let's look at some photos of Senator Whitehouse. Do you think he's well-dressed? What do you think of his style? Please make your judgements before reading on, as I don't want my commentary to color your views.
Personally, I think he dresses well. I like his use of gabardine and tweed in addition to typical dark worsteds. I like that he wears colors such as olive, rather than only navy and grey. He has good taste in ties and layers with Shetland knits. His clothes have good proportions.
The first sensible way is to go to a store that sells fragrances. Spritz some on some test strips and sniff. Of the ones you like, choose two so spray on the inside of your wrist. Walk out and go about your day and see how the fragrance changes over time.
I personally don't buy the idea that fragrances interact with your "skin chemistry." IMO, this is a marketing gimmick masquerading as pseudo-science that sales associates use to make you feel unique and special. But it is true that a scent changes over time.
The Harris Tweed Act of 1993 doesn't stop other people from producing tweed. It only regulates who gets to use the Harris Tweed Orb logo, which is a trademarked symbol. Let me give you some examples. 🧵
Below is Donegal tweed, which is called so because it's produced in the Donegal county of Ireland. Donegal tweed is most known for its signature flecks, which are created by spinning yarn with bits of felted wool, which glob onto the yarn like gum on a piano string.
My favorite Donegal tweed producer is Molloy & Sons, a father-and-son team that produces for some of the best English, American, and Japanese brands, as well as bespoke tailors around the world. I love the fabric for its story as much as its physical qualities.
As men's tailoring has slowly died, many people, including Will, see things in overly broad strokes. He thinks that these outfits are the same when they couldn't be more different. He also alludes to this idea of "noblesse oblige," which refers to a specific social class.
To understand the difference, we have to go back to the founding of Brooks Brothers in 1818. Brooks was the most important American men's clothier, as they invented the ready-made suit and introduced American men to things such as sack suits, Shetland tweeds, polo coats, etc.
Will share something about this suit. This pattern is what's known as a gun club, which is a family of checked fabrics historically connected to hunting estates. You most commonly see it in tweeds, such as the photo on the right.
Gun club tweeds are typically worn as sport coats, not suits. To understand why, you have to know something about how yarn is spun.