derek guy Profile picture
Oct 23, 2024 16 tweets 5 min read Read on X
There are two sensible ways to choose a fragrance and one bad way. 🧵
The first sensible way is to go to a store that sells fragrances. Spritz some on some test strips and sniff. Of the ones you like, choose two so spray on the inside of your wrist. Walk out and go about your day and see how the fragrance changes over time. Image
I personally don't buy the idea that fragrances interact with your "skin chemistry." IMO, this is a marketing gimmick masquerading as pseudo-science that sales associates use to make you feel unique and special. But it is true that a scent changes over time.
This change is broken into three stages: top, heart, and base. Top notes are often very "fresh" (citrusy, aquatic, etc). Basenotes are often things like musk and woods. Heart is your journey between these. As the scent evolves, you'll get to smell these "layers." Image
Depending on the concentration of aromatic oils, a fragrance can go through this journey quickly. Cologne has the lowest concentration, so it disappears quickly. I try to only buy eau de toilette (EdT) and eau de perfum (EdP) because they last longer (more sniffs per dollar)
Smelling something at a counter immediately after spritzing it doesn't give you the full picture, as you're often only gettin the fresh top notes. You want to see what's left on your skin as the scent evolves. So choose two and wear them for a day. If you like, buy. Done! Image
The other approach is more "hobbyist." Maybe you have a nerdy personality, like me, and want to learn about the subject—smelling different scents, getting a sense of what notes you like, exploring the idea of seasonal fragrances, etc.
If you suspect you're a nerd, then buy Perfumes: The A-Z Guide by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez. It has some great introductory chapters and tons of perfume reviews, so you can see what they think before sampling something. This can lead you down rabbit holes. Image
Claire Vukcevic’s “top ten” guides at Basenotes are also helpful and she has a great fragrance blog called Take One Thing Off. When you sample something, look up the notes at Fragrantica. Try to identify what you like or dislike. Maybe you like the note of rose but hate oud.
As you identify these themes, you'll be more able to home-in on what you like. I've found that I love gourmands, so I'm always interested if there's a vanilla or tonka note somewhere. Speciality shops such as Scent Bar are also be much better than your basic mall stand. Image
These shops tend to carry more indie and niche fragrances, where I think perfumers can express a bit more creativity. Some stuff can be pretty weird, but this area can also be very fun!!

I also like Twisted Lily, Ministry of Scent, and ZGO Perfumery.
You can join online fragrance communities and forums. There's a pretty vibrant YouTube community where people review perfumes. Luca Turin has a Substack. All of these resources can help you delve into what I think is a very fun hobby adjacent to menswear.
As stated in my original tweet, I think the worse way to choose a fragrance is to choose something that you think will get you laid. Sometimes men use the term "panty droppers" to describe a scent they think will be irresistible to women. This is super corny. Image
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It also doesn't work. Women pick up on the scents that douchebags wear, and if they detect that on you, they will associate you with that type of unpleasant character. It only makes sense to choose a fragrance that *you* like. Wear what makes you happy. Image
Lastly, I strongly suggest trying to get samples before committing a bottle. Scent is very personal. If you're shopping online, Lucky Scent, The Perfumed Court, and Surrender to Chance sell samples. You can also sometimes get samples from a perfumer's website.
I will leave you with this excerpt by Tania Sanchez, which outlines the journey many people take when they find their taste in fragrances. I think it's also true of clothes, fountain pens, and almost any other hobby. Image

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More from @dieworkwear

Oct 8
Have you ever noticed that old clothes online sometimes look better than old clothes in your closet?

Why is that? 🧵 Image
It's often said that clothes were better made in the past. This is true to some degree, although the discussion is often narrowly focused on durability.

In this thread, I'll focus on something else: how clothes age, which affects how long you enjoy wearing them. Image
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I'll give you some examples.

A hundred years ago, denim was mostly woven on slow shuttle looms, which produced a narrow-width fabric that was finished with a self-edge (selvedge). This fabric was taken straight off the loom and given to factories.

YouTube bluelabamsterdam8250
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Read 17 tweets
Oct 4
This is a great question.

How much does a handmade necktie cost? And why does it cost as much as it does? 🧵
A couple of years ago, I saw Jesse Watters on Fox News say that Otaa ties are "the best ties in the world."

So I bought one.
Otaa is an Australian neckwear company that has been showing up a lot in American politics. Along with Jesse Watters, they appear to be favored by RFK Jr. and his top deputy, Jim O’Neill. Image
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Read 25 tweets
Sep 26
Let me tell you a beautiful story about this couch. 🧵

IG msviciousdesign
Some will recognize these motifs as Mughal paintings, which flourished on the Indian subcontinent sometime between the 16th and 18th century. But menswear nerds will recognize them as something else: Drake's of London.

Left: thrifted couch
Right: Drake's of London scarf Image
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Drake's of London is a menswear label that started in the 1970s, initially with men's accessories, but having since grown to a full line of apparel. They are known for many things, but this print is perhaps their most famous. It appears on scarves, pocket squares, and even ties. Image
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Read 24 tweets
Sep 16
Style lessons from Robert Redford, one of the most stylish men in the last century. 🧵 Image
A tailored jacket continues to be one of the most flattering things you can wear. However, for it to look good, it has to fit right. That means a jacket that bisects you halfway from your collar to the floor when you're in heeled shoes. Also trouser + suit jacket silhouette flows Image
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It also helps to know how to use this visual language, especially with regard to ideas about formality. For instance, a dark business suit cries out for a tie. If you don't want to wear a tie, try a more casual garment, like a sport coat. Image
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Read 19 tweets
Sep 15
Someone yesterday asked me why someone would ask a tailor to make a polo coat in such a way to imitate the look of a machine-made garment.

The answer holds a beautifully little story about the difference between European and American style. 🧵
Let's start with a test. Here are two tan polo coats. One is machine-made. The other is handmade. Can you guess which is which?

Please answer before moving on. Then you can scroll through the answers to see whether most people got it right. Image
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The first coat is machine-made. It's from an American ready-to-wear company called J. Press. The second is handmade. It's from a London bespoke tailoring house called Anderson & Sheppard.

You can spot the difference by how the edges are finished. Image
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Read 19 tweets
Sep 15
I disagree that Obama wore "slick suits."

Let me tell you about Obama's tailoring. 🧵
I've seen people here suggest Obama was a stylish president. I couldn't disagree more. Outfits like these read better in 2025, but during the slim-fit, Euro style craze of his presidency, Obama was routinely panned for his "frumpy dad style." See Vanity Fair. Image
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His style transformation really came post-presidency. I suspect, but don't have proof, that this is partly the influence of his wife, who is quite stylish. Even his suits look better now. See clean shoulder line + shirt collar points reaching lapels + nice four-in-hand dimple. Image
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Read 16 tweets

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