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derek guy

@dieworkwear

Oct 23, 2024 • 16 tweets • 5 min read • Read on X

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https://twitter.com/chriswb71/status/1849212879171379403

There are two sensible ways to choose a fragrance and one bad way. 🧵

https://twitter.com/chriswb71/status/1849212879171379403

The first sensible way is to go to a store that sells fragrances. Spritz some on some test strips and sniff. Of the ones you like, choose two so spray on the inside of your wrist. Walk out and go about your day and see how the fragrance changes over time.

I personally don't buy the idea that fragrances interact with your "skin chemistry." IMO, this is a marketing gimmick masquerading as pseudo-science that sales associates use to make you feel unique and special. But it is true that a scent changes over time.

This change is broken into three stages: top, heart, and base. Top notes are often very "fresh" (citrusy, aquatic, etc). Basenotes are often things like musk and woods. Heart is your journey between these. As the scent evolves, you'll get to smell these "layers."

Depending on the concentration of aromatic oils, a fragrance can go through this journey quickly. Cologne has the lowest concentration, so it disappears quickly. I try to only buy eau de toilette (EdT) and eau de perfum (EdP) because they last longer (more sniffs per dollar)

Smelling something at a counter immediately after spritzing it doesn't give you the full picture, as you're often only gettin the fresh top notes. You want to see what's left on your skin as the scent evolves. So choose two and wear them for a day. If you like, buy. Done!

The other approach is more "hobbyist." Maybe you have a nerdy personality, like me, and want to learn about the subject—smelling different scents, getting a sense of what notes you like, exploring the idea of seasonal fragrances, etc.

If you suspect you're a nerd, then buy Perfumes: The A-Z Guide by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez. It has some great introductory chapters and tons of perfume reviews, so you can see what they think before sampling something. This can lead you down rabbit holes.

Claire Vukcevic’s “top ten” guides at Basenotes are also helpful and she has a great fragrance blog called Take One Thing Off. When you sample something, look up the notes at Fragrantica. Try to identify what you like or dislike. Maybe you like the note of rose but hate oud.

As you identify these themes, you'll be more able to home-in on what you like. I've found that I love gourmands, so I'm always interested if there's a vanilla or tonka note somewhere. Speciality shops such as Scent Bar are also be much better than your basic mall stand.

These shops tend to carry more indie and niche fragrances, where I think perfumers can express a bit more creativity. Some stuff can be pretty weird, but this area can also be very fun!!

I also like Twisted Lily, Ministry of Scent, and ZGO Perfumery.

You can join online fragrance communities and forums. There's a pretty vibrant YouTube community where people review perfumes. Luca Turin has a Substack. All of these resources can help you delve into what I think is a very fun hobby adjacent to menswear.

As stated in my original tweet, I think the worse way to choose a fragrance is to choose something that you think will get you laid. Sometimes men use the term "panty droppers" to describe a scent they think will be irresistible to women. This is super corny.

It also doesn't work. Women pick up on the scents that douchebags wear, and if they detect that on you, they will associate you with that type of unpleasant character. It only makes sense to choose a fragrance that *you* like. Wear what makes you happy.

Lastly, I strongly suggest trying to get samples before committing a bottle. Scent is very personal. If you're shopping online, Lucky Scent, The Perfumed Court, and Surrender to Chance sell samples. You can also sometimes get samples from a perfumer's website.

I will leave you with this excerpt by Tania Sanchez, which outlines the journey many people take when they find their taste in fragrances. I think it's also true of clothes, fountain pens, and almost any other hobby.

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More from @dieworkwear

derek guy

@dieworkwear

Jul 11

https://twitter.com/peddiepascal/status/1943401511377342543

I will tell you why on earth. 🧵

https://twitter.com/peddiepascal/status/1943401511377342543

As I've stated many times, suit jackets and sport coats are made from many layers of material, including haircloth, canvas, and padding. These layers give the garment its structure so it doesn't fall on you like a t-shirt or dress shirt.

For the chest and lapels, these layers can be attached to each other using a single-needle roll-padding machine, such as you see here. This is what you'll typically see on factory-made suits (this is a Strobel KA-ED machine). Happens both on the low- and high-end.

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derek guy

@dieworkwear

Jul 8

I found this reply interesting ("Can those foreign companies open shop in the US?")

I don't think Japanese or South Korean menswear can be made in the US. At least, not without losing something. Let's explore why. 🧵

I should state at the outset that no thread will do Japanese or South Korean fashion justice because these countries are fashion powerhouses. Japan alone covers everything from Yohji Yamamoto to And Wander to WTAPS.

It's Impossible to generalize, but we can discuss aspects.

Let's set the stage: Trump announced that he wants to tax Japanese and South Korean goods 25% starting August 1st. That means if you're a menswear shop in the US importing $1,000 worth of clothes made in Japan or South Korea, you owe the US government $250.

Read 24 tweets

derek guy

@dieworkwear

Jul 4

https://twitter.com/dieworkwear/status/1938326895692812532

This ended up raising $5,000 for @feederofcats, so here's a thread on whether President Zelenskyy wore a suit. 🧵

https://twitter.com/dieworkwear/status/1938326895692812532

Ahead of the NATO summit last month, President Zelenskyy arrived at the Paleis Huis ten Bosch wearing this outfit: a black jacket with matching black pants and a black shirt. Many debated whether this qualifies as a suit, as there's a $50M bet on it at Polymarket.

To understand the suit, we must place it in history.

During the Regency period (early 1800s), British men in high positions wore a long fitted garment known as the frock coat, which had a waist seam and full skirt. These garments were often quite colorful and expressive!

Read 19 tweets

derek guy

@dieworkwear

Jul 1

Any time I talk about a wealthy person's outfit, someone in the comments is quick to reply: "They're rich, you think they care?" No one has to care about my opinions or clothes, regardless of net worth.

But let's talk about the connection between wealth and aesthetics 🧵

About a year ago, Tucker Carlson told Chris Cuomo that "postmodern architecture" is intentionally designed to deaden the spirit. The clip was widely circulated online by people such as Benny Johnson, who seemingly agreed.

Postmodern architecture was actually a very brief movement that emerged in the 1960s as a counter-reaction to modernism's austerity and uniformity. Examples of postmodernism include Michael Graves's Portland Building and Guild House. Also Phillip Johnson's PPG Place.

Read 17 tweets

derek guy

@dieworkwear

Jul 1

Trump released a $250 fragrance (one for women, one for men).

Sometimes a fragrance can be expensive because it contains certain ingredients or involve artisanal, small-batch production. But with no note breakdown or even a description of the scent, what justifies this price?

I'm reminded of this 2016 blog post by Luca Turin, one of the best writers on fragrances. Even for niche perfumery he warns: "Niche perfumery stands a good chance of disappearing up its own rear end if it merely becomes yet another golden opportunity to rip off the customer."

If you're into fragrances, as I am, I encourage you to not support celebrity bullshit like this. Go to real perfumers. Some of my favorites include:

— AbdesSalaam Attar: He's a self-taught Sicilian Sufi perfumer who only uses natural ingredients. Many of his perfumes feel like you're walking through a Middle Eastern bazaar or spice market. Milano Caffe, Cuoio dei Dolci, and Tabac are worth a sniff. He can also do bespoke perfumes using your favorite notes.

— DS & Durga: David Moltz describes himself as doing "scent travel." He has an uncanny ability to transport you to far off places. I like Cowboy Grass, Debaser, Amber Kiso, and Burning Barbershop. If you can get a sample of his Pale Grey Mountain, Small Black Lake Sample (made part of his Hylands collection), it's really good with tailored tweeds.

— Anything by Jean Claude Ellena: One of the most famous perfumers in the world. His scents have been likened to watercolor paintings and chamber music because they're light, airy, and have a transparent quality. This makes them particularly good for spring/ summer. Check his scents from Hermes, such as Terre d'Hermes and Un Jardin sur le Nil, which are easy to find on discount. L'Eau d'Hiver for Frederic Malle is also great, but a bit more expensive.

— Tauer Perfumes: Andy Tauer is a chemist and self-taught perfumer who specializes in dry, spicy, woody scents. L'Air du Desert Marocain makes you feel like you're in the middle of the desert at night. Lonestar Memories is like being next to a crackling campfire while picking up on the scent of tobacco and leather. IMO, a must try if you're exploring niche perfumery.

Always try to get samples before buying a bottle. Check shops such as Luckyscent, Surrender to Chance, and The Perfumed Court. Also pick up a copy of Perfumes by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez.

Read 4 tweets

derek guy

@dieworkwear

Jun 29

People think I'm biased against Jeff Bezos, but here's F. Caraceni Sartoria, widely considered one of the best bespoke tailoring houses in the world, commenting on Bezos's wedding suit.

"The most terrible, frightening, horrible tuxedo ever seen in my life. I'm really suffering"

Nothing to do with politics, only quality tailoring. F. Caraceni made suits for Silvio Berlusconi, who was hardly beloved by progressives. Many people don't know much about tailoring, which is fine, but this doesn't mean that rich or expensive = good.

Caraceni's work: