derek guy Profile picture
Nov 3, 2024 22 tweets 12 min read Read on X
Here's my suggestion for a "Steve Harvey wardrobe." That is, a minimal number of purchases but with the highest impact and most versatility. Like Harvey, I'm only talking about tailored clothing. 🧵
First, most men could use a dark worsted suit because this is still the expected uniform for weddings, funerals, court appearances, and some religious services. Get a single breasted, notch lapel suit in dark grey or navy. And the things you need to wear with it (shirt, tie, etc) Image
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Next, get a notch lapel, single breasted navy sport coat. Remember: a sport coat is not the same as a suit jacket, which means you can't just wear the suit jacket in the previous tweet without the matching pants. Get the sport coat in a fabric that makes sense for your climate. Image
For instance, if you live in a very hot, humid climate, you will want a softly constructed jacket (minimal padding) made from an open weave wool like Mock Leno (pic 1). If you live in a cooler climate, consider a heavier serge or hopsack. Second pic below shows a lambswool twill. Image
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Next, get four or five pairs of wool trousers in a material that makes sense for your climate. If warm weather, then tropical wool; if cool weather, then flannel or whipcord. Stick to basic colors such as light gray, mid-gray, and tan. Image
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Now, get a white dress shirt for when you really need to dress up and wear a tie. This will be useful for weddings and funerals. Then get a bunch of light blue dress shirts. I like button-down collars when not wearing a tie bc the collar points don't slip under your lapels. Image
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The reason why you want more blue shirts than white is bc blue is a more casual color. Blue shirts can be worn with the most formal of suits and ties. In the right material, such as oxford, they can also work with jeans, chinos, and casualwear. Get blue-white stripes for variety Image
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Next, get a brown sport coat in a material that makes sense for your climate. Once again, if that's warm weather, maybe that's wool-silk-linen blend. If that's a cooler climate, maybe it's tweed. Image
Thus far, we've purchased: one suit, two sport coats, five pairs of trousers, and a handful of button-up shirts in staple colors such as white and light blue. This is less than Harvey's recommended six suits (which is six jackets + six pants).
Yet, look at all the variety. For situations that call for a suit, you have that one dark suit you can wear with a white shirt and dark tie. If you want to make it look fun and cool for a night out, pair it with a long-sleeve polo or turtleneck (you don't need six of them). Image
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The navy sport coat can be worn with the grey or tan trousers. It goes with the white or light blue shirts, and with or without a tie. If you add a long sleeve polo into the mix, you can dress it down further. This works for business meetings and dinner parties. Image
The same is true for that brown sport coat. You can wear it with grey or tan trousers. It can also be worn with those white or light blue shirts, with or without a tie. Once again, you can also dress it down with that long-sleeve polo or turtleneck. The formula is simple. Image
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People assume that variety comes from switching colors, but actually, you can achieve a lot by varying shade and texture. Here are four grey trousers. From top to bottom here, we see cavalry twill, tropical wool, fine worsted, and linen. Image
By keeping to these staple colors—brown, navy, grey, and tan—you can get a lot of variation through just material, weave, texture, and fiber. Outfits can also be made to look very different depending on your shirt + tie combination (or no tie at all). Image
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I will assume here you already have some casualwear, including things such as jeans and chinos. Depending on their cut and silhouette, you can also use them to dress down your tailored jackets. Suddenly, you have even more range. Image
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This sort of wardrobe makes much more sense to me. Most people don't need to wear a suit to work. If they do, they will want five or six dark worsted suits in colors like grey or navy. Not Steve Harvey's recommend tan and brown suits, which are too casual for such offices. Image
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If you don't need to wear a suit to work, then you'll be much better served in sport coats, which are more casual than suits and won't leave you looking like you're wearing orphaned suit jackets. This is bad: Image
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Instead, you'll have: two sport coats (navy, brown); five pairs of trousers in varying materials (grey, tan), a stack of button-up shirts (white, light blue; white-blue stripes); a long-sleeve polo or turtleneck; and a tie. This gives you 70 different outfit combinations. Image
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That's basically the same number of combos as Harvey's wardrobe, but I've saved you the cost of three tailored jackets (which are the most expensive items in this wardrobe). I've also saved you from spending a lot of money, only to look like this: Image
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For guys who don't have to wear a suit to the office, this will carry you through the most formal of occasions (short of black tie) to business casual to date nights. You can wear this for a while until you figure out if tailored clothing is right for you. Image
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If you find that you love tailored clothing down the road, there's a whole world of fun suits, casual suits, sport coats, tailored overcoats, and all sorts of stuff you can explore. Give yourself five years to figure out if tailoring is right for you. Image
If you find it's not right for you, then you still have a suit for weddings and funerals, and a navy sport coat for Mother's Day.

Dressing up is not the same as dressing well, and there are plenty of other aesthetics to explore. Don't dive in with six suits like Harvey suggests. Image
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More from @dieworkwear

Feb 7
Your suggestions are shit ass.

Let me tell you about backpacks. 🧵 Image
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Let's first establish good vs bad ways to think about style. The first pic is correct — style is a kind of social language and you have to figure out what type of person you are. The second pic is stupid bc it takes style as disconnected objects ("this is in" vs "this is out"). Image
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I should also note here that I'm only talking about style. I'm not here to argue with you about ergonomics, water bottle holders, or whether something accommodates your Dell laptop. I'm am talking about aesthetics.
Read 18 tweets
Feb 5
It's true that Canadian Prime Minister Mark Carney has a rounded back and forward pitched shoulders. But let me show you something. 🧵
Watch these two videos. Then answer these two questions:

— Which of the two men is better dressed?
— How does each come off?
I think Carney is better dressed, partly because his clothes fit better. Notice that his jacket collar always hugs his neck, while Pierre Poilievre's jacket collar never touches him.

Why do Poilievre's jackets fit like this? Image
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Read 11 tweets
Jan 18
The level of craftsmanship that goes into a lot of Japanese menswear simply doesn't exist in the United States. You can do this for many categories — suits, jeans, hats, etc.

In this thread, I will show you just one category: men's shoes 🧵
For this comparison, I will focus on Japanese bespoke shoemaking vs. US ready-to-wear. The level of bespoke craftsmanship shown here simply doesn't exist in the US, so a Japanese bespoke vs. US bespoke comparison would be unfair. US bespoke is mostly about orthopedic work.
So instead, I will focus on the best that the US has to offer: ready-to-wear Alden.

On a basic level, top-end Japanese shoes are better because they are handwelted, whereas Alden shoes are Goodyear welted. The first involves more handwork and can be resoled more often. Image
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Read 24 tweets
Dec 18, 2025
A story I found about Haiti:

In 1999, a group of Haitians were tired of political disorder and dreamed of a better life in the United States. So they built a small, 23-foot boat by hand using pine trees, scrap wood, and used nails. They called the boat "Believe in God." 🧵 Image
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In a boat powered by nothing but a sail, they somehow made it from Tortuga Island to the Bahamas (about a 90 mile distance). Then from the Bahamas, they set sail again. But a few days and some hundred miles later, their makeshift boat began to sink. Image
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The men on the boat were so dehydrated this point, one slipped in and out of consciousness, unable to stand. They were all resigned to their death.

Luckily, they were rescued at the last minute by the US Coast Guard. Image
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Read 5 tweets
Dec 1, 2025
After this post went viral, I called Caroline Groves, a world-class bespoke shoemaker, to discuss how women's shoes are made. I normally don't talk about womenswear, but I found the information interesting, so I thought I would share what I learned here. 🧵
First, who is Caroline Groves?

Footwear is broadly broken into two categories: bespoke and ready-to-wear. In London, bespoke makers, including those for women, are largely focused on traditional styles, such as wingtip derbies and loafers. Emiko Matsuda is great for this. Image
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In Paris, there's Massaro, a historic firm that has been operating since 1894, now owned by Chanel. Their designs are less about creating the women's equivalent of traditional men's footwear and more about things such as heels or creative styles. Aesthetic is still "traditional." Image
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Read 18 tweets
Nov 29, 2025
Earlier today, Roger Stone announced his partnership with a menswear company, where together they've released a collection of tailored clothing items.

Here is my review of those pieces. 🧵 Image
The line is mostly comprised of suits and sport coats, supplemented with dress shirts and one pair of odd trousers (tailor-speak for a pair of pants made without a matching jacket). Suits start at $1,540; sport coats are $1,150. One suit is $5,400 bc it's made from Scabal fabric Image
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Let's start with the good points. These are fully canvassed jackets, meaning a free floating canvas has been tacked onto the face fabric to give it some weight and structure. This is better than a half-canvas and fully fused construction, but requires more time and labor. Image
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Read 24 tweets

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