derek guy Profile picture
Nov 3, 2024 22 tweets 12 min read Read on X
Here's my suggestion for a "Steve Harvey wardrobe." That is, a minimal number of purchases but with the highest impact and most versatility. Like Harvey, I'm only talking about tailored clothing. 🧵
First, most men could use a dark worsted suit because this is still the expected uniform for weddings, funerals, court appearances, and some religious services. Get a single breasted, notch lapel suit in dark grey or navy. And the things you need to wear with it (shirt, tie, etc) Image
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Next, get a notch lapel, single breasted navy sport coat. Remember: a sport coat is not the same as a suit jacket, which means you can't just wear the suit jacket in the previous tweet without the matching pants. Get the sport coat in a fabric that makes sense for your climate. Image
For instance, if you live in a very hot, humid climate, you will want a softly constructed jacket (minimal padding) made from an open weave wool like Mock Leno (pic 1). If you live in a cooler climate, consider a heavier serge or hopsack. Second pic below shows a lambswool twill. Image
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Next, get four or five pairs of wool trousers in a material that makes sense for your climate. If warm weather, then tropical wool; if cool weather, then flannel or whipcord. Stick to basic colors such as light gray, mid-gray, and tan. Image
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Now, get a white dress shirt for when you really need to dress up and wear a tie. This will be useful for weddings and funerals. Then get a bunch of light blue dress shirts. I like button-down collars when not wearing a tie bc the collar points don't slip under your lapels. Image
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The reason why you want more blue shirts than white is bc blue is a more casual color. Blue shirts can be worn with the most formal of suits and ties. In the right material, such as oxford, they can also work with jeans, chinos, and casualwear. Get blue-white stripes for variety Image
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Next, get a brown sport coat in a material that makes sense for your climate. Once again, if that's warm weather, maybe that's wool-silk-linen blend. If that's a cooler climate, maybe it's tweed. Image
Thus far, we've purchased: one suit, two sport coats, five pairs of trousers, and a handful of button-up shirts in staple colors such as white and light blue. This is less than Harvey's recommended six suits (which is six jackets + six pants).
Yet, look at all the variety. For situations that call for a suit, you have that one dark suit you can wear with a white shirt and dark tie. If you want to make it look fun and cool for a night out, pair it with a long-sleeve polo or turtleneck (you don't need six of them). Image
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The navy sport coat can be worn with the grey or tan trousers. It goes with the white or light blue shirts, and with or without a tie. If you add a long sleeve polo into the mix, you can dress it down further. This works for business meetings and dinner parties. Image
The same is true for that brown sport coat. You can wear it with grey or tan trousers. It can also be worn with those white or light blue shirts, with or without a tie. Once again, you can also dress it down with that long-sleeve polo or turtleneck. The formula is simple. Image
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People assume that variety comes from switching colors, but actually, you can achieve a lot by varying shade and texture. Here are four grey trousers. From top to bottom here, we see cavalry twill, tropical wool, fine worsted, and linen. Image
By keeping to these staple colors—brown, navy, grey, and tan—you can get a lot of variation through just material, weave, texture, and fiber. Outfits can also be made to look very different depending on your shirt + tie combination (or no tie at all). Image
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I will assume here you already have some casualwear, including things such as jeans and chinos. Depending on their cut and silhouette, you can also use them to dress down your tailored jackets. Suddenly, you have even more range. Image
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This sort of wardrobe makes much more sense to me. Most people don't need to wear a suit to work. If they do, they will want five or six dark worsted suits in colors like grey or navy. Not Steve Harvey's recommend tan and brown suits, which are too casual for such offices. Image
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If you don't need to wear a suit to work, then you'll be much better served in sport coats, which are more casual than suits and won't leave you looking like you're wearing orphaned suit jackets. This is bad: Image
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Instead, you'll have: two sport coats (navy, brown); five pairs of trousers in varying materials (grey, tan), a stack of button-up shirts (white, light blue; white-blue stripes); a long-sleeve polo or turtleneck; and a tie. This gives you 70 different outfit combinations. Image
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That's basically the same number of combos as Harvey's wardrobe, but I've saved you the cost of three tailored jackets (which are the most expensive items in this wardrobe). I've also saved you from spending a lot of money, only to look like this: Image
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For guys who don't have to wear a suit to the office, this will carry you through the most formal of occasions (short of black tie) to business casual to date nights. You can wear this for a while until you figure out if tailored clothing is right for you. Image
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If you find that you love tailored clothing down the road, there's a whole world of fun suits, casual suits, sport coats, tailored overcoats, and all sorts of stuff you can explore. Give yourself five years to figure out if tailoring is right for you. Image
If you find it's not right for you, then you still have a suit for weddings and funerals, and a navy sport coat for Mother's Day.

Dressing up is not the same as dressing well, and there are plenty of other aesthetics to explore. Don't dive in with six suits like Harvey suggests. Image
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More from @dieworkwear

Aug 5
I disagree. I will tell you what's wrong with his jeans. 🧵
Let's start with an experiment. Here are two men wearing tailored jackets with jeans.

Which do you think looks better? Image
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If you choose the outfit on the right, then we have the same taste. But why does he look better?

The answer stems fro a basic rule of classic tailoring: the jacket needs to have a certain relationship with the trousers so as to form a harmonious whole. Image
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Read 10 tweets
Aug 3
On April 30th, Josh Smith of Montana Knife Company said you won't have to worry about tariffs if you buy American.

Last week, he realized his costs are going up bc he imports equipment and steel. And so do his suppliers.

IMO many people aren't aware of how much they import.
Genuinely not posting this to gloat, but hoping that people reevaluate how much of their life is connected to an international supply chain. Many small businesses, including artisans, will see their businesses shutter because of these tariffs, regardless of how they voted
Extremely long, but if you want to hear it, Josh breaks down the challenges he's facing. I hear similar stories in menswear (e.g., 3sixteen needing to import the best denim, which comes from Japan). All this now faces tariffs.

Glad I bought a Sebenza in MagnaCut before all this.
Read 5 tweets
Aug 2
I've had enough.

In this thread, I will tell you, definitively, whether Sydney Sweeney has great jeans.

This way, you will be more informed when shopping for your wardrobe . 🧵 Image
I should state two things at the outset.

First, I never comment on womenswear because I don't know anything about it. This thread isn't actually about Sweeney's jeans (sorry, I lied). But in the last few days, I've seen grown men buying American Eagle jeans and I can't abide. Image
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Second, while clothing quality matters, it's more important to develop a sense of taste. Buying clothes isn't like shopping for electronics — you don't "max out" specs. It's more like buying coffee — you sample around and identify what notes you like. Develop taste. Image
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Read 23 tweets
Jul 31
Sometimes I think about the closure of G. Lorenzi, a Milanese gentleman's shop that had been around for almost 100 years until their closure in 2014. The shop was special because it carried so many one-of-a-kind items from artisans — total handmade craft production, not factory. Image
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At the time of their closure, they still carried over 20,000 items of 3,000 models, including speciality knives, picnic sets, and nutcrackers. They had over 100 styles of nail clippers and 300 different hairbrushes alone. Proprietor Aldo Lorenzi scoured the world for artisans. Image
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There's nothing wrong with factory production. But as more of our lives get taken over by machines — including art and writing — this sort of production feels special.

Trailer for "A Knife Life," a documentary about the store by my friend Gianluca Migliarotti, available on Vimeo
Read 4 tweets
Jul 30
I spent 15 yrs on a menswear forum. The longest argument I had was over a tiny detail that can be seen in this photo. For 6 months, I argued with the same five guys non-stop every day. The argument got so heated the forum owner banned one guy for life.

Here is the detail. 🧵
As I've mentioned before, there's a lot of coded language in menswear. Navy suits can be worn with black oxfords because this was the uniform of London businessmen. Brown tweeds go with brogues because these clothes were worn in the country. In this way, we get formal vs. casual. Image
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The same is true for shoes. Tiny details come together to communicate something, much like how words form a sentence. Black is more formal than brown; calfskin more formal than suede or pebble grain; plain design is more formal than broguing. All of this stems from history. Image
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Read 20 tweets
Jul 27
How are Trump's economic policies impacting you?

Let me give you a hard example. 🧵 Image
The year is 2024 and you're browsing for a new shirt online. You come across a store selling shirts from Portuguese Flannel. You do your research and find they make quality garments: clean single-needle stitching, flat felled seams, quality fabrics, MOP buttons, classic designs Image
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So you go ahead and purchase one. The shop charges 139 Euros and throws in free shipping. Given the exchange rate in 2024, that means you paid $163.19.

It arrives and fits well. You are happy. Image
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Read 13 tweets

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