I often get asked if there's a "womenswear version" of me. Here's a thread addressing that, which includes a caveat and some resources. 🧵
First, I think it's a bad idea to go into this looking for a "womenswear version" of me. You'll never find this, just as you won't find a menswear version of a womenswear content creator. Everyone has their unique voice and perspective, which is what makes this space interesting.
Instead, I think you should judge each person on their own terms. Do you find their output useful? By listening and following a bunch of people, you will get a richer, more interesting experience.
In this thread, I'll list some womenswear voices I follow. But there's a caveat!
I'm not a woman and I don't wear womenswear. Your average woman will know more about womenswear than me bc they actually buy and wear the stuff. The following list is purely about the voices I follow as someone interested in menswear.
For instance, I follow womenswear to the degree that it helps me think and learn about concepts such as the use of texture or color, or how a black leather jacket can be styled in cool ways. For me, the barrier btw men's and women's style is not strict.
But this list is still very much filtered through the perspective of a menswear writer. I follow people if they help enrich my view of menswear, but I have no idea whether people who wear womenswear will enjoy the perspectives listed here.
Let's get into the list.
First, there are four major writers I follow: @theprophetpizza and @RobinGivhan at The Washington Post, @VVFriedman at The New York Times, and @cathyhoryn at The Cut. IMO, their fashion criticism is always smart and worth reading. (Givhan even won a Pulitzer for her work).
Next, there are the blogs. @the_rosenrot has taught me a lot about avant-garde fashion. She covers designers such as Issey Miyake, Rei Kawakubo, Yohji Yamamoto, etc. Also lots of smart writing on feminism and capitalism in fashion
Although it's no longer updated, The Cutting Class is a great resource on the technical work that goes into creating beautiful clothes. IMO, once you learn the technical craft that goes into this stuff, it's hard not to be wow'd by such creations.
Next, there are some YouTube channels. My guess is that most people asking for recommendations just want basic, general advice on how to judge quality and fit. For that, I really like @JustineLeconteo channel, which is smart and accessible.
I've also been into @perciaverlin. You can see how the videos here aren't strictly gendered. Ideas such as "Tokyo fashion" and "city boy aesthetic" (which is basically Japanese Americana) can be worn by anyone.
They even have a video on "menswear for women." And guess what? That video has more recommendations to other content creators, such as the YouTube account madeyoulooks. I obvs find this sort of content interesting, as I write about masc clothing.
There are too many Instagram accounts to name. Some I like include: lisaingmarinelli, sommyyah, ponytailjournal, lilyyfarr, a_fushimi, emiliecsz, _nthea, jennalyonsnyc, librarians.wardrobe, shungacowgirl, and kiyanaknits. I find their outfits interesting/ inspiring
There are also certain makers, who, while not limited to womenswear, do occasionally make women's clothing. I follow them for their insights into women's tailoring. Such makers on IG include ninapenlington, carolineandrewlondon, and be_spokenbyjihae.
Andrea Cheong is also a great IG account that covers sustainability and quality in fashion. She often goes to stores and shows you what details to look for. You can find her on Instagram under the handle andreacheong_
Speaking of sustainability, I follow @CoraCHarrington, @elizabethlcline, @LizziePaton, and @DanaThomasParis on here. They are often talking about issues related to sustainability, labor rights, and ethics in fashion. Cline and Thomas have also written some great books
Finally, @trufelman produces my fav piece of online media covering fashion. Her podcast Articles of Interest is a brilliant look on everything from pockets to plaid, the industry of wedding dresses and perfumes, and history of Ivy style. A must-listen
There are also some newsletters I follow, such as @halemur's Maybe Baby, who used to write for Man Repeller. Although it's not really on fashion, but more culture stuff. I mostly follow it because I like her taste in things.
I'm sure I've forgotten some important people. Rachel Syme, for instance, doesn't exclusively cover fashion and aesthetics at The New Yorker, but I think she has great taste (esp in perfumes) and always read when she posts about those topics (such as recently).
My point is that, instead of looking for someone who does a "womenswear version" of what I do, I think you should explore the wide world of fashion critics and commentators. Lots of people are approaching things from their unique POV. And since womenswear as a market is huge ...
... that means there are A LOT of people covering it. Thus, it shouldn't be hard to curate a small list of people who speak to your interest. The list is purely about some of the people who inspire me as a menswear writer. Maybe you will find some of them useful.
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After this post went viral, I called Caroline Groves, a world-class bespoke shoemaker, to discuss how women's shoes are made. I normally don't talk about womenswear, but I found the information interesting, so I thought I would share what I learned here. 🧵
Footwear is broadly broken into two categories: bespoke and ready-to-wear. In London, bespoke makers, including those for women, are largely focused on traditional styles, such as wingtip derbies and loafers. Emiko Matsuda is great for this.
In Paris, there's Massaro, a historic firm that has been operating since 1894, now owned by Chanel. Their designs are less about creating the women's equivalent of traditional men's footwear and more about things such as heels or creative styles. Aesthetic is still "traditional."
Earlier today, Roger Stone announced his partnership with a menswear company, where together they've released a collection of tailored clothing items.
Here is my review of those pieces. 🧵
The line is mostly comprised of suits and sport coats, supplemented with dress shirts and one pair of odd trousers (tailor-speak for a pair of pants made without a matching jacket). Suits start at $1,540; sport coats are $1,150. One suit is $5,400 bc it's made from Scabal fabric
Let's start with the good points. These are fully canvassed jackets, meaning a free floating canvas has been tacked onto the face fabric to give it some weight and structure. This is better than a half-canvas and fully fused construction, but requires more time and labor.
Here is a guide breaking down what goes into quality men's footwear. This is focused on men's shoes, as women's shoes, depending on the style, will have different construction techniques and thus standards. 🧵
First, let's set a standard. What does it mean for a pair of shoes to be "good quality?" In this thread, I define that standard to be two things:
— Do the shoes age well?
— Can they be easily repaired?
In short, you should want and be able to wear the shoes for a long time.
We'll start with the part most people see: the uppers.
Quality uppers are made from full grain leather, which shows the natural grain of the hide (pic 1). Low quality uppers will be made from corrected grain, where bad leather has been sanded and given a chemical coating (pic 2)
When I was on a menswear forum, one of my most controversial opinions was that certain coats look better when they're worn open, while others look better when they're closed.
For instance, which of these two outfits look better to you? 🧵
If you shop for an overcoat today, there's a good chance you'll land on a single breasted. As suits and sport coats have receded from daily life, the types of outerwear that men historically wore with them have also slowly disappeared.
If you look at the past, men had all sorts of designs to wear over their tailored clothing: polos, Ulsters, Balmacaans, Chesterfields, paletots, wrap coats, etc. They were offered in a wider range of materials: gabardine, camelhair, covert, heavy tweeds, etc.
The reason why this looks off is bc the coat is built from many layers of material — haircloth, canvas, and padding — which sits on top of another jacket with similar structure. This can make you look a bit like a linebacker. If you find this to be the case, switch to a raglan 🧵
A raglan is defined by its sleeve construction. Most coats have a set-in sleeve, which is to say the sleeve attached to a vertical armhole, much like a shirt. A raglan, by contrast, has a diagonal seam running from the neck to armpit. Historically, this was put on raincoats.
A raglan construction is a bit more waterproof that its set-in sleeve counterpart because there's not vertical seam in which water can sit and eventually penetrate. But most importantly, it's completely devoid of padding. This results in a softer, rounder shoulder line. Compare:
If you mainly wear suits and sport coats, then you will want a simple dress watch on a leather strap. Remember that the spirit here is elegance, so the watch should also be elegant. Certain dress chronos can also work, such as the Vacheron Constantin 4072 in pic 4
If your wardrobe leans a bit more rugged — bombers, boots, raw denim — then you'll want a similarly rugged tool watch. Something like a dive watch or G-Shock. These larger watches will look more at home with your visually heavy clothes. Although small military watches also work