derek guy Profile picture
Nov 19 21 tweets 11 min read Read on X
I often get asked if there's a "womenswear version" of me. Here's a thread addressing that, which includes a caveat and some resources. 🧵 Image
First, I think it's a bad idea to go into this looking for a "womenswear version" of me. You'll never find this, just as you won't find a menswear version of a womenswear content creator. Everyone has their unique voice and perspective, which is what makes this space interesting. Image
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Instead, I think you should judge each person on their own terms. Do you find their output useful? By listening and following a bunch of people, you will get a richer, more interesting experience.

In this thread, I'll list some womenswear voices I follow. But there's a caveat! Image
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I'm not a woman and I don't wear womenswear. Your average woman will know more about womenswear than me bc they actually buy and wear the stuff. The following list is purely about the voices I follow as someone interested in menswear. Image
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For instance, I follow womenswear to the degree that it helps me think and learn about concepts such as the use of texture or color, or how a black leather jacket can be styled in cool ways. For me, the barrier btw men's and women's style is not strict. Image
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But this list is still very much filtered through the perspective of a menswear writer. I follow people if they help enrich my view of menswear, but I have no idea whether people who wear womenswear will enjoy the perspectives listed here.

Let's get into the list. Image
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First, there are four major writers I follow: @theprophetpizza and @RobinGivhan at The Washington Post, @VVFriedman at The New York Times, and @cathyhoryn at The Cut. IMO, their fashion criticism is always smart and worth reading. (Givhan even won a Pulitzer for her work). Image
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Next, there are the blogs. @the_rosenrot has taught me a lot about avant-garde fashion. She covers designers such as Issey Miyake, Rei Kawakubo, Yohji Yamamoto, etc. Also lots of smart writing on feminism and capitalism in fashion

the-rosenrot.comImage
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Although it's no longer updated, The Cutting Class is a great resource on the technical work that goes into creating beautiful clothes. IMO, once you learn the technical craft that goes into this stuff, it's hard not to be wow'd by such creations.

thecuttingclass.comImage
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Next, there are some YouTube channels. My guess is that most people asking for recommendations just want basic, general advice on how to judge quality and fit. For that, I really like @JustineLeconteo channel, which is smart and accessible.

youtube.com/c/justinelecon…Image
I've also been into @perciaverlin. You can see how the videos here aren't strictly gendered. Ideas such as "Tokyo fashion" and "city boy aesthetic" (which is basically Japanese Americana) can be worn by anyone.

youtube.com/@percishImage
They even have a video on "menswear for women." And guess what? That video has more recommendations to other content creators, such as the YouTube account madeyoulooks. I obvs find this sort of content interesting, as I write about masc clothing.

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There are too many Instagram accounts to name. Some I like include: lisaingmarinelli, sommyyah, ponytailjournal, lilyyfarr, a_fushimi, emiliecsz, _nthea, jennalyonsnyc, librarians.wardrobe, shungacowgirl, and kiyanaknits. I find their outfits interesting/ inspiring Image
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There are also certain makers, who, while not limited to womenswear, do occasionally make women's clothing. I follow them for their insights into women's tailoring. Such makers on IG include ninapenlington, carolineandrewlondon, and be_spokenbyjihae.
Andrea Cheong is also a great IG account that covers sustainability and quality in fashion. She often goes to stores and shows you what details to look for. You can find her on Instagram under the handle andreacheong_ Image
Speaking of sustainability, I follow @CoraCHarrington, @elizabethlcline, @LizziePaton, and @DanaThomasParis on here. They are often talking about issues related to sustainability, labor rights, and ethics in fashion. Cline and Thomas have also written some great books Image
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Finally, @trufelman produces my fav piece of online media covering fashion. Her podcast Articles of Interest is a brilliant look on everything from pockets to plaid, the industry of wedding dresses and perfumes, and history of Ivy style. A must-listen

99percentinvisible.org/aoi/Image
There are also some newsletters I follow, such as @halemur's Maybe Baby, who used to write for Man Repeller. Although it's not really on fashion, but more culture stuff. I mostly follow it because I like her taste in things. Image
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I'm sure I've forgotten some important people. Rachel Syme, for instance, doesn't exclusively cover fashion and aesthetics at The New Yorker, but I think she has great taste (esp in perfumes) and always read when she posts about those topics (such as recently). Image
My point is that, instead of looking for someone who does a "womenswear version" of what I do, I think you should explore the wide world of fashion critics and commentators. Lots of people are approaching things from their unique POV. And since womenswear as a market is huge ...
... that means there are A LOT of people covering it. Thus, it shouldn't be hard to curate a small list of people who speak to your interest. The list is purely about some of the people who inspire me as a menswear writer. Maybe you will find some of them useful. Image

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More from @dieworkwear

Nov 17
I don't know anything about womenswear and have no opinion on how women dress. But for menswear, it's true that connecting time and color can be a useful way for thinking about how to dress. 🧵
To understand why, we should first go back to the early 20th century when men's dress was more heavily governed by TPO (time, place, and occasion). This is where we get the terms morning dress, dinner suit, and smoking jacket.

Pics below: morning dress vs dinner suit Image
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It's important to note this wasn't for all of society. In the early 20th century, our notions of dress were more heavily dictated by the ruling class. As the century marched forward, dress influence switched from just those with financial capital to those with cultural capital.
Read 17 tweets
Nov 16
First, which do you like better? Jake Paul's suit above or Stephen A Smith's lilac suit below?
Aside from the fact that one is double-breasted and the other is single-breasted, the biggest difference is length. IMO, Jake Paul's jacket is way too short for him.

Many people have heard the rule that a jacket should be long enough for your fingers to just curl the hem.
Read 19 tweets
Nov 15
Fashion—or style, if you prefer—is not always about looking attractive. It's about expression. The single most powerful thing you can do to improve your style is giving up on the idea that dressing well is just about looking attractive, rich, or successful. 🧵
Once you give up on the idea that style is just about looking attractive, you'll feel freer to explore other aesthetics. For instance, the Japanese brand Kapital riffs on workwear, militaria, and folk clothing. Image
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Their flagship product is a jacket that combines the US Army field jacket with the Japanese kimono. The thing looks totally ridiculous—and awesome. You're not really supposed to wear it with the hood up like you see in the second pic, but you could!! Image
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Read 8 tweets
Nov 14
At the moment, we don't know how much prices will go up as a result of tariffs. There are a lot of conditionals. But if the goal is raise the cost of imports so that people are encouraged to buy American-made goods, I want to tell you a story. 🧵
Some of you may remember American Apparel. They were huge with young, urban consumers (often called hipsters) in the early 2000s. The company was popular for their US-made basics, such as t-shirts and sweats, which they marketed through sexualized advertisements. Image
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The company's fonder, Dov Charney, turned out to be a real creep. But during those early 2000s years, when US manufacturing was still a selling point in fashion, he promised a new way forward. You could make clothes in the US if you just made cool clothes, he argued. Image
Read 19 tweets
Nov 14
I get this sort of comment a lot and it seems to stem from the presupposition that fashion images should be dominated by white men, and any deviation from this is some sort of woke DEI project. 🧵
With rare exceptions, I've never considered someone's ethnicity when posting a photo of a good or bad outfit. One exception that comes to mind is when I was critiquing Steve Harvey's suggestion that you can wear suit jackets as sport coats.
Some suggested that this is Black culture. IMO, it's more of a generational divide, so I took the opportunity to highlight two Black men I think are exceptionally stylish and know the difference between suit jackets and sport coats.

Read 20 tweets
Nov 13
This is incorrect and shows how little the average person knows about garment manufacturing. 🧵 Image
First, some context. This person imagines that Bad Clothing is made in low-cost countries like China and Mexico; Good Clothing is made in the US. So by putting up tariffs, we simply eliminate "cheap treats and slop."

Cheap t-shirts are already available in the US, they say. Image
My guess is that this person Googled "made in USA t-shirt" and screenshot the result. "Look how easy!"

But behind these country-of-origin tags, common mislabeling, and internet environment full of misinformation, there's a much more complex story. Image
Read 18 tweets

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