derek guy Profile picture
Dec 3, 2024 17 tweets 9 min read Read on X
My argument is simple: people who say they want to see a return of American manufacturing don't actually vote with their dollar. Let me show you. 🧵
Kash Patel runs an "America First" clothing line with t-shirts that say "Protect our People" and "American Pride." But the t-shirts are printed on Next Level blanks ... which are made in Central America and Haiti. Image
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Turning Point USA makes things easy by simply labeling things for us. In the corner of their product page, they say these are made on Next Level blanks. Thanks! Image
In one segment, Jesse Watters laments how we've shipped our manufacturing jobs overseas. But in another segment, he promotes Otta Brothers ties. I went out and bought one of the ties. Where was it made?

China. (It's also pure polyester)

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Isabella DeLuca started a clothing line called "Common Sense Club," through which she sells an "America First" trucker cap. On the product page, she removed the county of origin.

But the rest of the text is copied. Turns out, the hat is from China or Myanmar. Image
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Trump's $100k watch is made by the Swiss company BCP Tourbillons. The gold "Never Surrender? sneakers? Made in Vietnam.
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Jack Posobiec says he's willing to pay more for US-made goods, but also promotes MyPillow's apparel and bedsheets. Where are those made? Bangladesh, Pakistan, and India. Image
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Why won't these people buy US-made goods? The answer is simple: US labor costs more.

As the US has switched from an industrial to high-end services economy, manufacturing things here costs a lot of money. US wages have to be a certain amount to pay for rent, food, etc.
When Bikers for Trump sought a manufacturer for their t-shirts, they went to Haiti. Why? Because they know their consumers won't pay over a certain price.

"If I get a t-shirt made in the USA, it's going to cost about $8 more," said the organization's founder. Image
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In 2022, Lions Not Sheep was fined $211,335 for ripping out "made in China" labels and replacing them with "made in USA."

Their site included phrases like: “Are your products USA Made?” “100% AMERICAN MADE,” and “BEST DAMN AMERICAN MADE GEAR ON THE PLANET.” Image
In a video he posted online, which is what spurred the FTC's investigation, the company's owner admitted the t-shirts are from China and he just rips out the label. He was very blunt about why he did this: consumers are cheap. They don't want to pay more for stuff.
You can find US-made equivalents for everything above. Velva Sheen and 3sixteen t-shirts are fully made in the US. American Watch Company makes watches stateside. New Balance has a MiUSA line. Red Cotton has US-made bedsheets. Chipp Neckwear makes neckties in NYC.
But people don't buy the stuff because it's expensive. And prices will only go up with protectionist policies. That's because the things we use to make these goods are often imported. Chipp imports its grenadine, raw silk, and ancient madder silks bc we don't make that in the US Image
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By increasing the cost of doing business, you make US companies less competitive abroad (as they also have to compete on the global market).

You can buy US-made goods nows. They are available and the prices are as low as they'll ever be. The question is, why don't you?
More importantly, why don't people who own companies partner with US factories? And influencers promote brands that use US factories? Tell customers that, yes, stuff costs more, but that's the nature of US manufacturing. Image
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I asked a friend in the clothing industry how much it would cost to make a graphic t-shirt from start to finish in the US. Meaning, the material is made in the US, t-shirt is assembled in the US, and printing is done in the US.

He said $15 for a small brand; $6 on a large scale Image
Kash Patel sells $35 t-shirts that say "American Pride" and "Love It or Leave It."

Can he manage to take a smaller profit for his country? Or raise the price $8 to support US manufacturing?

Talk is cheap. Would like ppl to prove their values with their spending. Image
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More from @dieworkwear

May 11
I think "fun socks" should be used judiciously, as a lot of what's worn today feels more childish than whimsical. IMO, most men should avoid them entirely.

But if you insist on wearing them, here are some suggestions on how to make them look less bad. 🧵
Any time this topic comes up, people invariably bring up George HW Bush, who was known to wear fun socks later in life. While I wasn't a fan of those socks, I agree that Bush was well-dressed. I also think when you reach a certain age, you have license to wear whatever you want Image
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There are a few reasons why most outfits look bad with these sorts of socks. First, most men are not at that senior age where these socks become charming.

Second, most of these socks look like something you acquire by sending in a proof-of-purchase from a cereal box. Image
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Read 17 tweets
May 1
I respectfully disagree. This sort of outfit can be beautiful, but it has to be done well.

IMO, the problem with Vance's outfit — along with many others — is that the work has been influenced by fashion designers, rather than tailors.

Let me show you. 🧵
Most people think of black tie as the most formal kind of menswear, but technically speaking, it's semi-formal evening attire. Historically, men wore this kind of outfit to dinner or evening shows, such as going to the opera or ballet. Or celebrations such as NYE parties. Image
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White tie is true formalwear. It differs from black tie primarily in how it requires a long tailcoat (black tie originated when men cut the tails off their coats to create a more casual garment for dinner). Also requires a white waistcoat, white tie, and wing collar. Image
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Read 17 tweets
Apr 30
If you're interested in bespoke tailoring and based in the United States, I have some trunk show announcements to share with you. Since Twitter recently changed their formatting options, I will be doing this as a thread. 🧵
Matthew Gonzalez

There's a long history of cross-border influence and immigration in tailoring, but as far as I know, Matthew Gonzalez is the first American to operate under his own banner on Savile Row. Born and raised in Southern California, he moved to London about twenty years ago to pursue a degree in bespoke tailoring from the London College of Fashion. Thereafter, he climbed the ranks — moving from undercutter at Thom Sweeney to cutter at Dunhill and eventually Huntsman, where he achieved his longtime goal of cutting on Savile Row.

Today, he runs his own firm, where he merges his California sensibility with his training in British bespoke craftsmanship. He recently told me he admires a photo of JFK staring out of a window. The President dressed in a dark worsted suit, white button-up shirt, and dark silk necktie, but everything about the photo looks very casual and relaxed. This, he told me, is what American style means to him.

Gonzalez cuts suits and sport coats inspired by that mid-century American tailoring, although he's adamant about not wanting the clothes to look like historical costumes. Thus, while the jackets have a soft, natural shoulder line, he sticks with front darts and prefers side vents (rather than the dartless front and hook vent characteristic of Ivy Style). The lapels have a moderate width and minimal belly (the curve sometimes distinguishing an older style of British tailoring). The garments are designed so they can be teamed with a dress shirt and tie, or something more casual such as a chambray button-up.

Given Gonzalez's penchant for slightly more relaxed, casual attire, it's no surprise that he also offers made-to-measure suede jackets, wool-cashmere shawl collar cardigans, and denim Western shirts (made without the contrast stitching, so they look more at home with tailoring). He's also one of the few bespoke tailors I've met who "gets it" when it comes to the polo coat, arguably the most iconic of American overcoat styles. Gonzalez tells me he thinks a polo coat should have letter box patch pockets, a half belt, gauntlet cuffs, an inverted back pleat, and a center button vent. But crucially, he also thinks the split-sleeves should be made with a lapped seam. To my eye, this makes the garment more casual and sporty—truer to its original roots—and allows the tailor to shape the sleevehead.

Consider Gonzalez if you share the same sensibilities: a love for classic American tailoring, but a suspicion of styles that are too anachronistic, and a bias towards clothes that feel more relaxed and casual. The point about Gonzalez using a split-sleeve with a lapped seam demonstrates that he takes care of details that may not occur to a client, but will be appreciated years down the road.Image
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Taillour

In bespoke tailoring, there's a generally accepted rule that most clients would do well to observe: choose a company based on their house style and stay close to it. The term "house style" refers to the tailor's established methods, which combine to create clothes with a distinguishable fit and feel. Just as you wouldn't order burritos from a ramen chef, you shouldn't ask an English tailor for an Italian jacket (or vice versa).

Taillour is one of the few exceptions. Co-founder and head cutter Fred Nieddu has worked in the bespoke tailoring industry for decades, cutting for firms such as Thom Sweeney and even teaching pattern drafting courses at the London College of Fashion. A good percentage of his current workload involves making clothes for films and TV shows. In fact, you may have seen his creations. He made all the menswear for the Netflix series The Crown, the suits in the film The Phoenician Scheme, and one of the colorful costumes for Wonka. Given this experience, he's more flexible than most tailors regarding what he's willing and able to make.

Still, I think it's always a good idea to stay close to the house style. I think of Taillour's house style as very soft but architectural in its lines. Nieddu uses a full body canvas and only a bit of laptair near the wearer's collar bone to prevent the jacket from sinking. The shoulders are minimally padded, giving the garments a very light feel. While Neapolitan tailors are known for a similar construction, Taillour's jackets have a bit more room and shape. The shoulder line is very straight, and the chest is slightly full. When combined with those characteristically straight lapels and larger jacket collar, I find Taillour's jackets have an angular appearance reminiscent of Apparel Arts drawings.

Consider Nieddu if you want a tailor who's a bit more flexible in terms of what they're willing to make (although, again, I recommend tweaking at the margins, not bringing in a photo of something and asking for it to be copied). He has also made clothes for women, which will be useful if you're looking for someone who can make a women's suit, sport coat, or overcoat.Image
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Read 4 tweets
Apr 25
Summer is around the corner and soon you'll read a bunch of tweets about how every man should have a pair of loafers.

I don't think anyone needs anything, but if you're shopping for a pair, let me show you how to think about loafers. This applies to any wardrobe item. 🧵 Image
When it comes to choosing loafers, a simple answer will go something like this: "Such-and-such brand makes the best pairs." Or "Here's a hierarchy of loafers." IMO, such approaches are reductive and often devolve into trend or status pursuits.

Let me show you another approach. Image
As always, it's helpful to start at the beginning.

There are a few origin stories for loafers, but most lead back to Norway. If menswear lore is to be believed, then the penny loafer comes from a simple slip-on shoe known as the teser, which was once worn by Norwegian peasants. Image
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Read 25 tweets
Apr 15
Someone asked if I could tell them where to buy a pair of good chinos. In this thread, I will tell you, but my answer is not simple. On the upside, I think this is a better approach when shopping for clothes and you can apply it to any kind of item. 🧵 Image
A simple answer will go something like this: "Such-and-such makes the highest quality chinos." Or "this brand provides the best value." While potentially useful in some respects, I don't think this gives you the fullest picture.

Instead, let's start at the beginning.
During the 1898 Spanish-American War, US troops stationed in the Philippines wore sand-colored pants made from a heavy cotton twill woven in China. Since the Philippines had been under Spanish colonial rule at this time, the locals call these "pantalones chinos" (Chinese pants). Image
Read 23 tweets
Apr 4
One day, "It" will happen, by which I mean sudden and unexpected news that you want to celebrate. In such cases, you will want the right outfit. 🧵
What do I mean by "It?" I mean that joyous moments are not always something you can plan for. Perhaps you received a pay raise or got accepted at a waitlisted school. Perhaps a loved one is now cancer-free. Such moments can be sudden and unexpected — and you want to be prepared. Image
Of course, you can always celebrate in the same clothes you wear to bed. But IMO, this diminishes the moment. Thus, it's nice to special outfits for "It," even if you don't wear them all the time. It's similar to toasting a special glass of champagne and drinking water. Image
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Read 14 tweets

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