derek guy Profile picture
Dec 3, 2024 7 tweets 4 min read Read on X
here are two athletically built men. which trousers look better? Image
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the problem with very slim tapered, low rise trousers, particularly on certain men, is that they can emphasize your hips. see matt gaetz below. tristan tate suffers from a similar problem, although to a lesser degree. Image
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there are no universal rules in fashion. everything is contingent on aesthetics, which is contingent on culture. skinny jeans make sense in a rock and roll aesthetic bc the look is rooted in cultural history. but they look terrible with a tailored jacket bc that makes no sense Image
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most men don't have enough aesthetic direction one way or another. they're likely in very basic clothing, often business casual. so they should go for more middle of the road cuts. the overton window on trouser silhouette is so shifted, anything not suction-fit looks "baggy."
but if you look through men's fashion history, a high rise, straight legged cut is the middle of the road path.

often, when i talk about this, someone will post some ridiculous photo and say "that looks like this." no, it does not. if you can't tell the diff, you need help. Image
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look through photos of style icons: cary grant, gary cooper, gianni agnelli, steve mcqueen, robert redford, harrison ford, and such. the trousers are often high rise and neither baggy nor slim. they simply are middle of the road. Image
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this same cut can look great today. the best bespoke tailors have made pants like this for generations because it flatters almost everyone. Image
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More from @dieworkwear

Jun 17
People keep asking me to do a thread breaking down why these suits don't look great. I gather that these are famous, very well accomplished F1 drivers (I don't know these people). Since I only talk about famous people, I will do a thread. 🧵 Image
Please note nothing in this thread is meant to diminish the men in these clothes. If anything, it's the people who dressed them that failed them. I am only talking about the clothes. Hopefully, by pointing out these issues, you will learn something for when you're shopping.
A pinstripe suit with a white business shirt cries out for tie. If you don't want to wear a tie, then you need a more casual shirt or a more casual suit. Additionally, the shoes are too chunky for this outfit. Image
Read 19 tweets
Jun 14
The US Army celebrated its 250th year today with a massive parade in Washington, DC. It appears @ComfortablySmug believes that this is an appropriate tie for the occasion.

I disagree and I'll tell you why. 🧵
It's once again worth reminding that men's dress used to be governed by time, place, and occasion (TPO). If you were of a certain social station and had to do a certain thing, you were expected to wear a certain outfit.

This tradition can be seen in men's neckwear.
In Britain, where we derive most of our traditions for classic men's dress, the term "regimental stripe" refers to neckwear with diagonal lines, like you see below. These were not purely about decoration. Each design symbolized belonging to some organization. Image
Read 11 tweets
Jun 14
I think Brad Pitt's suit is interesting. And I'll tell you why. 🧵
This is the suit in question. It's a bespoke suit by Anderson & Sheppard in London. The cloth is a 60/40 mohair-wool blend from Standeven's "Carnival" book. The stylist was George Cortina.

To understand why this suit is interesting, you have to know a bit about tailoring history
In the early 20th century, Dutch-English tailor Frederick Scholte noticed that a man could be made to look more athletic if he belted up his guard's coat, puffing out the chest and nipping the waist. So he built this idea into his patterns. Thus the "drape cut" war born. Image
Read 19 tweets
Jun 10
This is untrue.

I see you're a luxury watch dealer. I'm also interested in watches. Let me show you how free and easy migration has allowed you to earn a living. 🧵
In 1881, Hans Wilsdorf was born in Bavaria, then part of Germany, to parents who died not long after he was born. At a young age, Wilsdorf set off into the world. He landed in England in 1903, which at the time had virtually no formal immigration controls. Image
Image
Lucky for him. Two years later, fear of poor Eastern European Jews flooding the UK led to 1905 Aliens Act, which moved the country from an open-door policy to one of stricter control. This was the first British law that labeled certain migrants as "undesirable." Image
Read 19 tweets
Jun 7
I can tell you who goes to cobblers. And a bit about the trade. 🧵 Image
In the 18th century, men got shoes from two types of people. The upper classes went to cordwainers, who measured feet and made shoes from scratch. The lower working-classes went to cobblers, who cobbled together shoes using scraps from salvaged pre-owned footwear. Image
A cobbler was also someone who repaired footwear. Hence the Middle English term cobeler ("mender of shoes") deriving from an early form of cobble ("to mend roughly, patch"). In shoemaking, cordwainers and cobblers were considered distinct trades. Cobbler was lower on the ladder. Image
Image
Read 14 tweets
Jun 5
An offhand comment about how Prince Harry doesn't dress very well seems to have stirred up his fans. So here's a thread on how both Harry and William don't dress well when compared to the older men in their family — and how this represents a broader decline in taste. 🧵 Image
I should say at the outset that I don't care about the drama surrounding the Royal family. I don't care if you're Team Markle or Team Middleton or Team whatever. I am simply talking about clothes. The following is also not meant to be personal jabs; just an honest review.
The first thing to understand is that select members of royal family were incredible dressers. Most notable is Edward VIII, the Duke of Windsor. For a time, whatever he wore, others followed. He popularized cuffed trousers, belts, and a tailoring style known as the "drape cut." Image
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Read 24 tweets

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