Anthony O'Shaughnessy Profile picture
Dec 29, 2024 9 tweets 6 min read Read on X
Let’s nail this down. A proper bowl of oatmeal/porridge. Let me show you how I make it, with tricks to make it the best oatmeal/porridge you’ve ever had. You might be shocked - shaken, even - but stick around until the end. Let’s go! 🥣 Image
First, get decent oats. The best oats you’ll find are Irish or Scottish, where the soil is rich and wet. I recommend a brand called Flahavan’s which is widely available. Then there’s the kind of ‘chop’: you’ll often see ‘steel-cut’/‘pinhead’ oatmeal or ‘rolled’ oats. ‘Steel-cut’ and ‘pinhead’ oats are the same thing - the whole oat piece (the groat) is chopped into roughly thirds. They’re quite hard and require a long cook time - about half an hour - but arguably the best-tasting oat. Next is rolled oats; it’s the fast-cooking option. The oat groat is simply steamrolled flat so it cooks faster. The nutritional differences are virtually negligible. So the real difference to make up for is the flavour - that’s where I come in.Image
This will serve one. I measured 1/3 cup of rolled oats into a saucepan. That’s roughly about an egg-cup-full. The volume-measure you use doesn’t matter, it’s all about the ratio of oats to liquid. We’ll get to that later. First, let’s bolster the oats. Place the pan of oats onto a medium-high heat. We’re going to toast the oats in a dry pan. This will enormously enhance their nuttiness and mouthfeel, bridging the gap between steel-cut and rolled oats. They need a couple of minutes until fragrant. You can also do this in the oven as a large batch, spreading the oats across a tray then transfer them to a container. Then you can skip this step each time.Image
Now for liquid. The ratio of oats to liquid is 1:3. So that’s 3 egg cups of liquid straight into the pan of oats. And the liquid: it’s WATER. That’s right. No milk. I became a convert to water porridge when I first trained as a chef. The chef I apprenticed under taught me that having water porridge before my shift will make me quicker on my feet; ‘bollocks’ I thought, but he was right. You’ll be amazed at the creaminess you can unlock in oatmeal porridge - I’m about to show you how - and you don’t get that gubby, dozy feeling like you do with a milk porridge. Bring it to a boil and let it simmer for a minute or two to activate the oats’ starch.Image
Before we finish up with a special technique: we now season it. A generous pinch of sugar and salt. Salt makes you salivate, helping you access the nuanced flavour of the oats and makes them taste more like themselves. Sugar has the same effect, but you’d be surprised how little you need in water porridge. Just a generous pinch. And you know how much of a sweet tooth I am! You’re welcome to add more. I always add the salt and sugar at the end as the seasoning is usually weft into the starch and cloaked if added too early - and it’s no longer readily detected by your palate. You end up ingesting more salt than you can really taste. This also applies to all other starchy dishes: mashed potato, beans; polenta and risotto.Image
Speaking of risotto, now for this special technique. Turn off the heat. Throw in a knob of butter. I added Kerry Irish butter. We’re going to cream (or ‘emulsify’) this butter into the oatmeal porridge. This technique is also used in risotto to enhance the mouthfeel of the dish. The Italians usually call this step ‘mantecare’, which roughly means ‘to caress with butter’. Stir the oats and butter briskly and keep the butter skating through porridge. Butter is the perfect emulsion of water and fat, and we want to keep that emulsion stable in the porridge. Emulsions always feel creamy on your tongue and safeguard aromas extremely well. Brisk mixing will whip air into it, which is actually also a brilliant emulsifier. It only takes 20 seconds to do this, but the result is mind-blowing. Pillowy, creamy and aromatic.Image
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And serve. Sure, any toppings are more than welcome! My favourite way to eat it is as Copenhagener ‘grød’, with diced apple, caramel sauce and toasted almonds. But honestly, it needs nothing more. And I promise you that you’ll still feel very nimble and fast on your feet after. Enjoy! 🇮🇪Image
If you want to graduate to some other versions, I have an two alternative oatmeal recipes on Cook’s Instinct -🇨🇭 Birchersmüesli, a Swiss overnight oatmeal that is packed with fibre, creamy and delicious all year round (FREE RECIPE: ). cooksinstinct.com/p/swiss-birche…Image
And a super tasty one: 🇮🇸 Icelandic ‘Karamellu Hafragrautur’, a porridge from Iceland enriched with tangy skyr and Nordic-style caramel sauce. (PAYWALL RECIPE: ) cooksinstinct.com/p/icelandic-ca…Image

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More from @anthonyshock

Mar 26
Apologies for being quiet lately, I've been busy expanding my produce garden. Now let me give you a nice potato recipe to usher in the Spring. These are called 'papas arrugadas', or 'wrinkled potatoes', and they come from the Canary Islands. Traditionally, these baby potatoes would have been boiled in Atlantic seawater to produce fudge-like, creamy potatoes with a ruffled, sparkly salt crust on the outside. Utterly delicious; here's how to make them, and without the need for the seawater! [Free recipe at the end]Image
First, scrub the baby potatoes - about 500g of them - and place them into your pot. Now we're going to add...60g of flaky sea salt. That's an enormous amount of salt. When people say pasta water should be salty as the sea, they can never be serious. Rest-assured the potatoes won't absorb all of this salt - most will be drained away - but this amount of salt will quickly draw liquid from the potato to produce a buttery, intensely flavourful, truffle-like result. Add 350ml of water - it won't seem like a lot, but it'll be enough to steam any potatoes that poke out. Place it onto boil.Image
Simmer them until they're knife-tender. You should notice quite a bit of salt crust on the edges of pan, that's a good sign! I highly recommend using a flaky sea salt, like Maldon or Kosher, it guarantees a better crystalline jacket on the potatoes once they're drained. Image
Read 7 tweets
Feb 17
You know I’m always shopping at Lidl. It’s German week this week, allow me to demystify some of the interesting German products on offer this week. As always, this isn’t an advert, I’m just an eagle-eyed shopper! 🇩🇪 Image
The regional cheeses return. You may remember I did a feature on these least year. Let me break them down for you. Tilsit originally comes from Prussia and is made with an emmental method, but the local bacteria gives a different flavour. Steely and cool. Like winter frost on your tongue. The küstenkäse is a coastal cheese, a Nordic style that’s matured on spruce wood. Very creamy and nice with fruit (apples, pears, quince). I’d be delicious with a fruit cheese. In a sandwich with a spiced apple chutney - to die for. Or with apple strudel. The Wilstermarschkäse is a fun cheese. Full of little holes and very mild - a ‘snacking cheese’. Perfect for breakfast or sandwiches. Not so great for trypophobia. These are very similar to butterkäse cheeses, also extremely popular in Wisconsin through German immigrants. Great, melty cheeses perfect for cheeseburgers and mac & cheese. I mean they’re all perfect for rye bread too. 🇩🇪Image
Speaking of rye bread, they’re stocking Westphalian rye bread. This is a niche style of rye bread from Western Germany. It’s incredibly dense, and should be sliced quite thinly, almost like a cured meat. It has a very robust, burly texture and deeply savoury taste. It’s
Delicious on a German snack platter, or ‘Abendbrot’ as it’s called in Germany. Thinly-sliced rye bread, cheeses, pickles and a handful of salty pretzels. Washed down with cloudy apple juice. Schmackhaft!Image
Read 12 tweets
Jan 3
Another Chinese comfort dish. You won't find this in any restaurants outside of China, but it's probably the number 1 home dish with younger generation Chinese today. Before Christmas I was teaching some Chinese students and when I asked them what their favourite dish was in the whole world, they *unanimously* chose this one: Tomato Egg Fry (番茄炒蛋). This dish is a Chinese cultural phenomenon and one of the very few dishes that's enjoyed in almost every province. It was popularised by older generation Chinese who exercised great thrift in their home-cooking: this dish only requires a handful of fresh ingredients, and for that reason any Chinese that roam abroad can make this dish virtually anywhere - and so can you. Lets go!Image
You need one tomato for every egg. I have two eggs and two tomatoes. The eggs are beaten with a pinch of salt, and often the Chinese will add a teaspoon or two of Shaoxing wine for aroma. Set these aside.
I've sliced the tomato into segments, chopped a clove of garlic and sliced a couple of spring onions for garnish - separating the whites and the green-tops.Image
Pop a wok or frying pan onto medium heat. Add a skiff of oil and pour in your eggs.
These need a very lazy scrambling, then they go back into their original bowl to add at the end. The eggs should still be quite loose and wet. Image
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Read 7 tweets
Jan 2
Jumping into the new year with a spotlight on Chinese comfort dishes: old and new. Inexpensive, easy and light, just right for the bleak January. Let's start with something familiar. Chicken & Sweetcorn Soup (雞肉玉米湯). This is the proper deal though, made with chicken legs, aromatics and corn complete with the traditional egg drop at the end. It's light, fast and incredibly inexpensive to make. Let's go!Image
Most Chinese takeaway restaurants will use a cheap chicken stock powder thickened with cornflour, and a poached, shredded chicken breast. Nothing wrong with that, but this is the proper way: a light, nutritious stock made with chicken legs. Add 2x chicken legs, with the skin removed. I highly recommend first giving them a 5 minute boil in a separate pan of boiling water. This is an old-fashioned trick that I've seen in lots of cultures. You may think it's faff, but this initial 'blanch' removes most of the chicken's soft fat, along with any flimsy protein or 'impurities'. It also means you won't have to skim the stock *once*, and helps to keep it clear. It's worth it. Once blanched, transfer them to the main pot with 1.5L of simmering water.Image
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Throw in a few coins of fresh ginger, half an onion, a clove of garlic and a teaspoon or two of salt. A splash of Shaoxing wine is a pretty traditional Chinese knack for toning down the 'gamey' flavours of meats. This stock need to simmer for 45 minutes, that's all. Your house will smell wonderful and rich too. Remove the chicken legs and let them cool, then shred their meat from the bones - all the other hardware (onion, ginger) can be discarded.Image
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Read 7 tweets
Sep 27, 2024
It’s already a chilly 5°c here tonight. Time for the hot drinks. Here’s a very easy recipe for a French hot chocolate - bol de chocolat chaud - which is literally served in a bowl, not in a cup. Often enjoyer for breakfast in France with brioche, croissants or pastries to dip. It does pretty well for bedtime too! 🇫🇷Image
Most people who’ve had bol de chocolat have suffered a weak, watery powder mix. Not here. The proper version comes down to just two ingredients: milk and chocolate. The milk should ideally be full-fat (or ‘full-cream’ in the US), which will help the chocolate emulsify better. Even better, ‘gold-top’ milk (5% fat) is a real delight. Place it onto a medium-low heat and heat until steaming hot, but not boiling.Image
Meanwhile, let’s prepare the second ingredient: chocolate. You need 75g of it. I recommend bar chocolate here, anywhere from plain (50% cocoa) to dark chocolate (75% cocoa). A plain chocolate will give you an overall milk chocolate flavour-drink, with the 60-70% cocoa chocolate giving you a richer, darker result. Play with different single-origin chocolate bars here too - you’ll notice their nuances and aromas even more as a hot drink. Whichever chocolate you like, it should be chopped to help it melt quickly.Image
Read 6 tweets
Sep 5, 2024
Let me show you a Punjabi magic trick. A delicious vegetable curry that uses no onions or garlic. It all comes down to just vegetable, spices and water. It’s called ‘sabji’ or ‘sabzi’, which simply means ‘vegetable’. And you can plug absolutely any vegetable into its formula. 🇮🇳 Image
There’s a reason why onions and garlic are often omitted from some Indian/South Asian dishes. Some desis follow Ayurvedic practice, which is a traditional medicine/philosophy that connects food to health. I won’t go into too much detail, but it’s believed that onions and garlic create heat and passion in the body, which in some circumstances isn’t appropriate, such as menstruation, seasonal changes or…being a widow. To get around this, many people use this spice: asafoetida (also called ‘hing’). It has a very strong, pungent alium taste, and is used in very small amounts.Image
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It starts with making a ‘tadka’ or a tempered spice oil. Most seed spices in Indian cooking have oil-soluble flavours which we want to bind to the cooking oil. The exact seed spices that are used can vary by region, by family and depending on the desired Ayurvedic health benefits they carry (such as aiding digestion). This can include any of cumin seeds, coriander seeds, mustard seeds, black onion seeds, fenugreek seeds. Either way, a few tablespoons of cooking oil or ghee makes the base fat, and the whole spices go first: 1 tsp cumin seeds, 1 tsp fennel seeds and curry leaves (these are optional). These can fry for a minute or so on low heat until popping and fragrant. If you’ve never done this before, add the oil and spices to a cold pan, place on low heat and slowly bring them up to sizzle. Then the ground spices go in: 1 tsp ground coriander, 1/2 tsp ground ginger and 1/2 tsp turmeric. These will bloom in just 10 seconds, so we add them separate to the whole spices. Always keep your follow-up ingredient to hand to add in and cool the pan.Image
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Read 7 tweets

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