derek guy Profile picture
Jan 17 16 tweets 9 min read Read on X
I disagree. This outfit is terrible and I will show you better ways to wear a polo. 🧵 Image
It's hard to look good in a polo for all of the same reasons it's hard to look good in just a button-up dress shirt or a t-shirt. The garment typically has no silhouette. Polos are relatively simple garments with straight seams and a short placket. Image
Like the fedora, it's also saddled with bad social connotations: rich pricks who run on family ties, golfing uncles, and business casual guys at networking conferences where there's plated cantaloupe. Image
Some people will point to stylish mid-century outfits worn by golf legends such as Arnold Palmer. But immediately, what do you see? The addition of layers, a distinctive silhouette (shape and drape), and the rule of thirds. Image
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What is the rule of thirds? The rule of thirds is not actually a rule, but just a gentle suggestion. It's the idea that an outfit can be made better if you break up the silhouette into thirds—top half is 1/3rd; bottom half is 2/3rds.

For example, which looks better? Image
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Bezo's outfit suffers from the same problem. It wouldn't matter if he tucked in his polo (this would look dumb with jeans, anyway). The pants are too low rise, so the outfit is broken into halves, not thirds. Image
I say this is a gentle suggestion because there are many good outfits that don't follow this "rule." But you can read more about the idea in this thread about t-shirts.

So how does one wear a better polo? The first is to get away from the business casual connotations. Instead of a simple button placket, as you'd find on a Lacoste polo, consider something like a skipper collar. Instead of pique cotton, consider another material. Image
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Here are these two ideas in action. Compare the build on Bezos vs Picasso. Bezos has a larger drop between his chest size and waist size. Picasso has less differentiation between shoulders, waist, and hips (he's kind of shaped like a tube). Image
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But which of these two outfits is more stylish? I think Picasso's. He's wearing a polo shirt made from a textured terrycloth and built with a unique collar. The outfit has aura. Image
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Another possibility is to get a polo built with a collar band. Most polos are built in such a way that the collar flops over. We see this in other photos of Bezos from the same day. Notice how the collar simply folds over. Image
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Some polos, however, are built with a collar band, like you'd find on a button-up shirt. The collar band connects to the shirt's body and fold-down collar, allowing the collar points to stand up and behave like a dress shirt. This can be useful for layering. Image
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This is important because polos are one of the easiest ways to dress down a tailored jacket, so long as you don't get the ones Bezos is wearing. And a tailored jacket is important bc it adds a finishing layer and creates a distinctive silhouette. Image
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If you can't wear a tailored jacket, or if you don't want to look overly traditional, you can always go back to the original points above: distinct collar, unique fabric (not pique cotton), rule of thirds. These outfits look good bc polo is not suction fit. Image
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IMO, many people who purport to be interested in style are actually interested in other things—body types, position in society (power, wealth), and ideas about prestige. But to me, this outfit is vanilla bland. Does not matter if it's on a buff body. Outfit is still boring. Image
I only write about style, not about how to look "hot" (assuming your intent is to attract a partner). But I will throw it to others. Do these people (or outfits, if you wish) look "hot?"

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More from @dieworkwear

Apr 8
How much do you think it costs to make a pair of Nike shoes in Asia?

I'll show you. 🧵 Image
In 2014, Steve Bence served as Nike's Program Director in Footwear Sourcing and Manufacturing. He pulled back the curtain on manufacturing in an interview with Portland Business Journal. He said that, if a sneaker retails for $100, it generally costs them about $25 to manufacture Image
This is the FOB cost. In the industry, "free on board" is the shoe's cost at the point when it's loaded onto a vessel at the port of origin. "Free" refers to how the factory will pay to deliver a finished product up to the point when it boards a ship—the rest is your problem. Image
Read 19 tweets
Apr 8
"China makes crappy clothes anyway, so who cares?"

This is a very outdated view. Let me show you just one shop in Beijing, which I think makes clothes that surpasses Loro Piana, The Row, or whatever luxury ready-to-wear brand you can name. 🧵 Image
Atelier BRIO Pechino started as a multi-brand store that held trunk shows with bespoke tailors and shoemakers from around the world. Over time, they've developed as their own tailoring house, which I think excels bc of the proprietor's high taste and their craftspeople's skills. Image
Image
For example, on the right is your typical hand padded lapel, where a tailor has picked up multiple layers of material with needle and thread, and shaped them through stitches. This is sort of workmanship is pretty standard, even on Savile Row. Image
Image
Read 21 tweets
Apr 6
I support the US garment industry. I don't believe in making life harder for immigrants or erecting crazy high tariffs. So how can we reshore some of our US garment manufacturing without xenophobia or protectionism? Here's my view. 🧵 Image
This thread starts with three ideas:

First, garment manufacturing has always been done by immigrants—first Germans in the late 19th century, then Jewish immigrants from East Europe, then Italian and Polish, and now East Asian, Latin, and Caribbean. Image
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Such immigrants gave us our cultural language. The soft-shouldered Ivy style look—popularly associated with WASPs—was formed by Jewish tailors. One of the leading shops for this look, J. Press, was founded by a Latvian immigrant who eschewed rabbinical studies to sell clothes. Image
Image
Read 25 tweets
Apr 6
It's true there's a lot of automation in garment production—and there stands to be a lot more. Let me show you some of the technologies. And what this could mean for American labor. 🧵
I want to start with this video, even though I've posted it before and you may have seen it. It forms the basis for an idea in this thread.

Long ago, before the advent of ready-to-wear, tailors made things by hand, some using a pad stitch.

YT bernadettebanner
As you can see in that video, a pad stitch is a way to pick up multiple pieces of fabric, shaping the material as you go and turning 2D cloth into 3D form. The incredible sculpted chest and lapel roll you see here was formed through a combo of pad stitching and ironwork.
Read 18 tweets
Apr 6
This is a very misinformed view of clothing manufacturing.

Tariffs can drive up prices, shrink variety, and lower quality. Let me show you how. 🧵
People often equate Chinese manufacturing with low quality, cheap, sweatshop clothes. And they assume that US manufacturing is high quality, ethically made clothes. Thus, if tariffs brings back US manufacturing, we'll all be wearing higher-quality clothes. This view is wrong. Image
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Maybe in the 1980s, you could have characterized Chinese vs US production in this way, but this has not been true for a long time. Jeffery Diduch is the Senior VP of Hickey Freeman, a leading US suit factory (now called Rochester Tailored Clothing). He said this in 2011: Image
Read 24 tweets
Apr 3
Let's look at how Trump's recent round of tariffs could impact your spending on clothing. 🧵 Image
I should note this thread makes two assumptions. First, that tariff will be fully passed down to the consumer. This may or may not be true, but is likely true in the long run. Second, that the manufacturing info I found online reflects current sourcing.
According to their public filings, 39% of Adidas shoes are made in Vietnam, including these Sambas.

Currently, they sell for $100. With the new 46% tariff, they will cost $46 more—or $146. Image
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Read 16 tweets

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