derek guy Profile picture
Feb 8 20 tweets 12 min read Read on X
Here is a guide on how to dress like this. Image
First, some basics. It's easier to dress like this if you involve some kind of activity. I suggest going out to a nice restaurant or bar. Or going to a party or an evening show. You can also dress like this just to have fun in the city (e.g., going to the museum). Image
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Another thing: there are elements in this outfit that may be harder to pull off, such as the hair-on-hide coat. Can you try? Yes, of course, but it's more of a statement piece. Needs the right haircut/ personal vibe.

The rest, however, is pretty easy. Let's start. Image
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The heart of this outfit is the brown double-breasted suit that fits and flatters. Notice some basic points:

— Jacket bisects him halfway from collar to the floor
— No shoulder divot
— High rise trousers
— Pants don't cling to legs Image
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You can see how the material hangs very cleanly in this video. This gives him a sense of ease and elegance. A lot of tailored clothing nowadays is just too short and tight to achieve this effect, as things cling to your body. So first, pay attention to fit and drape.
Next is choosing the material. Close-up photos of Domingo's suit reveal that it is made from calvary twill, which is a tough fabric that was once used by calvary officers. You can tell this is cavalry twill because it has a "twill within a twill." Image
Twills generally hang better than plain weaves. But if you live in a very warm climate, you may find it more comfortable to wear tropical wool, which is an open-weave material made from high-twist yarns. This will feel more breathable on hot, humid days. Image
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IMO, a double-breasted has a bit of dash. But it's true that, if you wear the jacket open, you may need to sweep the fronts to the side with your hand, as Domingo is doing here. Otherwise, it can be kind of flappy. Alternatively, a single-breasted may be easier to wear. Image
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Domingo dressed this down with what looks to be a silk shirt. You can get something like this through Post Romantic for $115. Here's @urban_comp wearing one of their custom silk shirts with both tailoring and casualwear. His shirt is cream, but they can also source brown silk. Image
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Next, this outfit is entirely tonal, which means all of the pieces generally stay within the same color family. Yet, everything works because you still have contrast through texture, sheen, and shade. Image
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Hair-on-hide obviously has a much different texture than cavalry twill, which in turn reflects light differently from silk.

Creating tonal outfits like this is an easy to way to make tailoring look more modern and sophisticated. Image
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For instance, here's a basic navy suit that you may already have in your wardrobe. With a white dress shirt and dark tie, this is a business suit. But with a navy turtleneck, it suddenly becomes cocktail attire. Image
You can also apply this same concept to casualwear—a charcoal Donegal overcoat worn with a grey suit, or a black lambskin leather jacket paired with black jeans. These work becasue of the differences in sheen, fiber, shade, texture, etc. Image
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There are two other things to note about this outfit. First, the shirt is technically a popover, which refers to when the placket only come halfway down the body. The design is a bit more common in preppy/ trad outfits, but I think it looks great here. Image
IMO, when you ditch a tie in a tailored outfit, it helps to make it look intentional. Don't just wear dark worsted suits with solid white, spread-collar poplin shirts (pic 1). Choose a casual top, such as a popover, turtleneck, long-sleeve polo, etc. Helps if suit is also casual Image
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The other thing is that Domingo is wearing an ascot, which is admittedly going to be a bit more challenging for some guys to pull off without emitting "Colonel Mustard in the Library with the Candlestick" vibes. Image
I think wearing a neckerchief can look great, but it's one of those things you can just try and see. I recommend starting with a basic bandana. Looks most discrete with a sweater and with the points tucked into the garment. Image
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Finally, the shoes: these appear to be some kind of black hair-on-hide boots with an elevated heel. You can get something vaguely similar through La Botte Gardiane, which is available in the US at No Man Walks Alone. Image
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Ultimately, the main thing you need is a brown double-breasted suit. You can style is more fashion-forward or conservative ways. Consider a black Western shirt or mesh pullover for something fun. Or a shirt and tie for something conservative. Image
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Then gather some friends who like to dress up and make an evening of it. Go a nice restaurant or bar. Or go see an evening show. Or just host a fun dinner party. I also think you can dress like this whenever you want. I promise nothing bad will happen if you have fun. Image

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More from @dieworkwear

Feb 10
I don't know anything about womenswear, but I've noticed that women's tailoring is typically free of the problems I commonly see on men. I had dinner with a bespoke tailor last night who explained why this may be so. A thread for those interested. 🧵 Image
Disclosure: I don't know how the patterns were drafted for the clothes featured in this thread. That would make a big difference in how they should be judged. But for the purpose of this thread, I'll assume they're ready-to-wear or designer (i.e., adjusted off a block pattern). Image
One thing I notice is that women's tailoring typically features a high armhole. For instance, at last year's DNC, every politician who made a speech raised their hand at some point. On men, this typically resulted in their jacket lifting. But not so on women. Image
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Read 16 tweets
Feb 7
It's interesting to see how gender in aesthetics is constantly a moving target. Will explain how four outfits from today's Todd Snyder FW25 show were once considered very masculine, but now may not because men perform disinterest in clothes. 🧵
The first is straightforward: single-breasted, notch lapel suit made from grey herringbone tweed. My guess is that this model is wearing a size up for styling purposes (gives him some swagger). The cut you'll try in-store will probably be a little slimmer. Image
Of course, tweed is that prickly woolen that British men once wore while playing sport in the countryside. It used to be that men's wardrobes were strictly divided between town (London) and country, but such rules broke down over time. Hence the phrase "tweed in the city." Image
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Read 23 tweets
Feb 4
I can. In fact, the Canadian version is so great, I can't think of an American equivalent. 🧵
Before Europeans landed in North America, the Pacific Northwest was populated by the Coast Salish people, who had been here for thousands of years. During the 19th century, many made a living by selling woven blankets to traders. The blankets typically featured geometric designs. Image
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Business dried up in the late 19th century as the market was flooded with Hudson Bay Point blankets, so Coast Salish people picked up knitting needles. This was the birth of the Cowichan sweater, which combined old Coast Salish weaving practices with European knitting techniques. Image
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Read 18 tweets
Feb 2
If you're based in the US and shop a lot online, you may know that packages declared under $800 usually arrive without taxes. According to Reuters, in addition to the 25% Canada tariff, Trump is also canceling this de minimis tax exemption for Canadian imports. 🧵 Image
This will be quite expensive for guys who are into menswear. For instance, Spier & Mackay is popular among guys who are budget-conscious but want quality tailoring. Their $400 suits will now arrive with $100 tax bill. Image
Naked and Famous is also super popular because they're an easy, relatively accessible entry point into the world of raw denim. Most of their jeans are around $250, so those will arrive with a $63 tax bill. Image
Read 9 tweets
Feb 1
I don't understand why this is a good tweet. It's neither true nor funny. It's just naked prejudice and ignorance.

I will tell you about the history of hoodies—and how knowing this history can help you style them. 🧵
I'm writing this thread partly bc ideas about respectability run rampant on this platform. Often see people saying things like, "Men shouldn't wear backpacks or hoodies; they're for children." When quarter zips came up, lots of people said, "Well, at least they're not hoodies." Image
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I dislike respectability in dress bc I don't think you should judge a person's deeper, more important qualities based on their clothes. Also dislike when people base their aesthetics on aping whatever the middle class does. I think you can appreciate "high" and "low" aesthetics. Image
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Read 25 tweets
Jan 29
I disagree. I think your argument fails because it lacks something important: an understanding of the cultural history of fashion. I will show you. 🧵
First, I never comment on how regular people dress, so don't expect some scathing breakdown. This thread is not meant to critique or embarrass any of the people in these photos. I am only commenting on Max's argument.

Max argues that these two images are comparable. Image
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IMO, those images aren't comparable because dress is important to culture. The photos would read very differently if the people were dressed in basketball shorts or drag attire. Similarly, it's not the similarity in composition here I see but a difference in clothes: Image
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Read 25 tweets

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