Want to support Canadian companies? Here are some Canadian businesses that sell high quality menswear. Some also carry womenswear. 🧵
First, some caveats. What does it mean to "buy Canadian?" Does it mean buying things made in Canada? Or just from Canadian stores, which may carry imported goods? Something made in Canada will be more expensive, so price is a consideration. You decide what level is right for you.
Second, protectionism is bad bc it can hurt consumers. This is one of the probs with Trump's tariffs: consumers can end up paying *more* for *lower quality* goods. Just bc something is domestic doesn't mean it's quality.
As such, I'll focus on what I think are good companies.
Let's start with producers.
House of Blanks is the in-house label for Roopa Knitting Mills, an Ontario factory that has supplied the likes of Aime Leon Dore with quality sweats and t-shirts. Their sweats are hefty, but soft. Great value for price.
Similarly, A Care Label makes basics—t-shirts, hoodies, sweatshirts, and summer dresses—entirely in Montreal using 100% post-consumer recycled cotton. Silhouettes tend to be somewhat cropped and boxy, which is both forgiving and comfy.
Want sweaters that are a little more refined? Milo & Dexter carries the fisherman styles you've probably admired in movies. However, their knits are made in Canada. They also carry stuff like stout rugbys, waterproof outerwear, and leather carryalls.
Forget Canada Goose. Kluane Mountaineering makes classic, down filled outerwear in the style of 1970s hikers (IMO the golden age of outdoor style). Since everything is custom, you have to go to their Edmonton store. They sell t-shirts online though.
Viberg is a heritage workboot manufacture that makes shoes for menswear nerds. They use Goodyear welting with a channeled insole, so you can replace the soles when they wear down (rather than binning the shoe). Follow their "archive sales" for discounts.
Dayton Boots recently rebranded as Wohlford. I'm recommending them with a bit of trepidation, as there have been complaints about declining quality control and service over the last 15 years. Still, handsome work boots without Viberg's prices.
Naked & Famous makes some of the best jeans in Canada. Their focus is on raw, selvedge Japanese denim, which feels stiff at first, but breaks in beautifully and allows you to fade the material naturally over time. Wide range of fits and some fun fabrics.
Henry's is producing interesting workwear styles in Toronto. Since these are small batch runs, owner and maker Keith Henry can take greater liberty with design. For instance, check out these cool pockets! Stuff sells out fast, so follow them for updates
Samuelsohn is the label-behind-the-label. They produce ready-to-wear and made-to-measure tailoring for some of the best suit shops in North America. Soft tailoring with full canvas construction. Made in Canada using European materials.
If you loved the simple, sleek basics from wings + horn (unfortunately no longer operating), check out Body of Work. They do contemporary styled basics that are designed, cut, and sewn in Canada. Not too out there, just easy to wear.
People on menswear forums went NUTS for Dana Lee's clothing from 2007 to 2012. She took a hiatus from the fashion industry, but is now back better than before. Basic styles, but great details and unique, sustainable materials. Read "Farms & Fiber" section
There's a certain kind of menswear guy who will talk your ear off about tea core leather and Shinki hides. Those guys are wild about Himel Brother's leather jackets because they're among the best in the world. Heavy duty, hardcore, and often repro styles.
Rosa Rugosa is a workwear line from Matty Matheson and Ray Natale. I think Matheson is one of the most stylish men right now, so you know the line is good. Plus, four-pocket field jackets made in Canada for just $195. Impressive value.
This one is controversial, as not all Coast Salish people consider themselves Canadian. Still, I would be remiss to not mention these beautiful hand-knit sweaters bc they're on my wish list. Made in British Columbia by indigenous knitters. I want one!
Let's move onto Canadian companies that work with overseas factories
If you've admired what I post, but find prices expensive, check Spier & Mackay. They specialize in well-made, classic clothing at relatively affordable prices. Tailoring and casualwear
Sleek, contemporary tailoring from Wynona. I wish I hadn't mentioned this shirt (pic 1) a few months ago bc it quickly sold out and now I want one. Great eye for fabrics, making classic feel fresh. They also offer custom tailoring at their Toronto store.
If you've ever admired the outfits in Japanese fashion publications such as Popeye, check out Estudio Niksen. This Canadian brand works with South Korean factories to produce streetwear styles in wide fitting silhouettes. They also carry house goods.
Finally, let's move onto stores. There are so many to name:
— Haven: Incredible techwear and streetwear.
— Neighbour: Sophisticated clothing for ppl who look like they collect rare architecture magazines.
— Blue Button Shop: Fun Japanese goods. A fav. I wish this was near me! 😩
— SSENSE: One of the biggest high-end fashion retailers. Every cool fashion dude shops here.
— Uncle Otis: For young guys who like heritage style. They carry Barbour, Monitaly, Orslow, and the like
— Tate + Yoko: For people who bleed indigo. One of Canada's best denim shops.
— Lost & Found: A great boutique that carries a bit of everything. Margaret Howell, Engineered Garments, and hard-to-find labels like Man-tle. Honestly top notch.
— Gravity Pope: A little more contemporary in vision, but with heritage brands.
— Dutil: Another great denim shop.
— Roden Gray: High fashion store for people who say things like Central Saint Martins. They carry CdG, Kiko Kostadinov, and Issey Miyake.
— Wallace Mercantile: Heritage-inspired brands like Blurhms, Kaptain Sunshine, and Frizmworks.
— Miloh: Another great denim and workwear shop.
There are simply too many good Canadian companies to name. Some may not even know that popular names such as Dime and JJJJound are Canadian. I've run out of room, but hopefully the above gets you started. Follow companies on Instagram & support small businesses when possible. 🇨🇦
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I interviewed a clothing factory once who said he's excited to implement robotics AI. He said this will make US manufacturing more competitive against China. I asked, "And what happens when Chinese factories also implement robotics AI?" He said, "Oh, I hadn't thought of that."
Chinese factories also have these machines. All you've done is deskill the worker, making it harder for their wages to grow. Your land and labor costs are still higher than China, India, or any other place where they can pay someone to do this simple manual operation.
If you want to reshore US manufacturing in apparel, you have to move up the value chain. Look at other successful countries: France, Italy, and Japan. They don't make crappy t-shirts. They make high-end leather goods, suits, and denim. Requires skills that can't be automated
This is a bespoke sport coat made from vintage oatmeal-colored tweed and finished with natural Loro Piana horn buttons. It's from a relatively new South Korean tailoring company called Hameen, run by a woman named Hamin Kim.
Bespoke means the garment was made from scratch specifically for one client. Unlike made-to-measure, which involves a block pattern, this pattern was drafted from scratch using a client's measurements. The garment was then made through a series of three fittings.
Have you ever noticed that people dressed better in the past? Even in the summer, when it was scorching hot?
Why is this? 🧵
I want to first dispel some myths.
Contrary to popular belief, people didn't look better because they were slimmer. We see many corpulent men in the past who dressed better than the average man today. It's not true you can look good in anything if you have an athletic body.
Dressing well was also not limited to the rich and famous. A reader sent me pics of his grandpa, born in Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe) to a working-class Chinese family. He immigrated to London and then Canada, where he worked in an auto parts store and by installing light fixtures.
Let's start with an experiment. Here are two men wearing tailored jackets with jeans.
Which do you think looks better?
If you choose the outfit on the right, then we have the same taste. But why does he look better?
The answer stems fro a basic rule of classic tailoring: the jacket needs to have a certain relationship with the trousers so as to form a harmonious whole.
On April 30th, Josh Smith of Montana Knife Company said you won't have to worry about tariffs if you buy American.
Last week, he realized his costs are going up bc he imports equipment and steel. And so do his suppliers.
IMO many people aren't aware of how much they import.
Genuinely not posting this to gloat, but hoping that people reevaluate how much of their life is connected to an international supply chain. Many small businesses, including artisans, will see their businesses shutter because of these tariffs, regardless of how they voted
Extremely long, but if you want to hear it, Josh breaks down the challenges he's facing. I hear similar stories in menswear (e.g., 3sixteen needing to import the best denim, which comes from Japan). All this now faces tariffs.
Glad I bought a Sebenza in MagnaCut before all this.
In this thread, I will tell you, definitively, whether Sydney Sweeney has great jeans.
This way, you will be more informed when shopping for your wardrobe . 🧵
I should state two things at the outset.
First, I never comment on womenswear because I don't know anything about it. This thread isn't actually about Sweeney's jeans (sorry, I lied). But in the last few days, I've seen grown men buying American Eagle jeans and I can't abide.
Second, while clothing quality matters, it's more important to develop a sense of taste. Buying clothes isn't like shopping for electronics — you don't "max out" specs. It's more like buying coffee — you sample around and identify what notes you like. Develop taste.