derek guy Profile picture
Mar 4 25 tweets 17 min read Read on X
🇨🇦 CANADIAN SHOPPING GUIDE 🇨🇦

Want to support Canadian companies? Here are some Canadian businesses that sell high quality menswear. Some also carry womenswear. 🧵 Image
First, some caveats. What does it mean to "buy Canadian?" Does it mean buying things made in Canada? Or just from Canadian stores, which may carry imported goods? Something made in Canada will be more expensive, so price is a consideration. You decide what level is right for you. Image
Second, protectionism is bad bc it can hurt consumers. This is one of the probs with Trump's tariffs: consumers can end up paying *more* for *lower quality* goods. Just bc something is domestic doesn't mean it's quality.

As such, I'll focus on what I think are good companies. Image
Let's start with producers.

House of Blanks is the in-house label for Roopa Knitting Mills, an Ontario factory that has supplied the likes of Aime Leon Dore with quality sweats and t-shirts. Their sweats are hefty, but soft. Great value for price.

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Similarly, A Care Label makes basics—t-shirts, hoodies, sweatshirts, and summer dresses—entirely in Montreal using 100% post-consumer recycled cotton. Silhouettes tend to be somewhat cropped and boxy, which is both forgiving and comfy.

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Want sweaters that are a little more refined? Milo & Dexter carries the fisherman styles you've probably admired in movies. However, their knits are made in Canada. They also carry stuff like stout rugbys, waterproof outerwear, and leather carryalls.

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Forget Canada Goose. Kluane Mountaineering makes classic, down filled outerwear in the style of 1970s hikers (IMO the golden age of outdoor style). Since everything is custom, you have to go to their Edmonton store. They sell t-shirts online though.

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Viberg is a heritage workboot manufacture that makes shoes for menswear nerds. They use Goodyear welting with a channeled insole, so you can replace the soles when they wear down (rather than binning the shoe). Follow their "archive sales" for discounts.

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Dayton Boots recently rebranded as Wohlford. I'm recommending them with a bit of trepidation, as there have been complaints about declining quality control and service over the last 15 years. Still, handsome work boots without Viberg's prices.

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Naked & Famous makes some of the best jeans in Canada. Their focus is on raw, selvedge Japanese denim, which feels stiff at first, but breaks in beautifully and allows you to fade the material naturally over time. Wide range of fits and some fun fabrics.

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Henry's is producing interesting workwear styles in Toronto. Since these are small batch runs, owner and maker Keith Henry can take greater liberty with design. For instance, check out these cool pockets! Stuff sells out fast, so follow them for updates

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Samuelsohn is the label-behind-the-label. They produce ready-to-wear and made-to-measure tailoring for some of the best suit shops in North America. Soft tailoring with full canvas construction. Made in Canada using European materials.

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If you loved the simple, sleek basics from wings + horn (unfortunately no longer operating), check out Body of Work. They do contemporary styled basics that are designed, cut, and sewn in Canada. Not too out there, just easy to wear.

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People on menswear forums went NUTS for Dana Lee's clothing from 2007 to 2012. She took a hiatus from the fashion industry, but is now back better than before. Basic styles, but great details and unique, sustainable materials. Read "Farms & Fiber" section

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There's a certain kind of menswear guy who will talk your ear off about tea core leather and Shinki hides. Those guys are wild about Himel Brother's leather jackets because they're among the best in the world. Heavy duty, hardcore, and often repro styles.

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Rosa Rugosa is a workwear line from Matty Matheson and Ray Natale. I think Matheson is one of the most stylish men right now, so you know the line is good. Plus, four-pocket field jackets made in Canada for just $195. Impressive value.

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This one is controversial, as not all Coast Salish people consider themselves Canadian. Still, I would be remiss to not mention these beautiful hand-knit sweaters bc they're on my wish list. Made in British Columbia by indigenous knitters. I want one!

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Let's move onto Canadian companies that work with overseas factories

If you've admired what I post, but find prices expensive, check Spier & Mackay. They specialize in well-made, classic clothing at relatively affordable prices. Tailoring and casualwear

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Sleek, contemporary tailoring from Wynona. I wish I hadn't mentioned this shirt (pic 1) a few months ago bc it quickly sold out and now I want one. Great eye for fabrics, making classic feel fresh. They also offer custom tailoring at their Toronto store.

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If you've ever admired the outfits in Japanese fashion publications such as Popeye, check out Estudio Niksen. This Canadian brand works with South Korean factories to produce streetwear styles in wide fitting silhouettes. They also carry house goods.

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Finally, let's move onto stores. There are so many to name:

— Haven: Incredible techwear and streetwear.
— Neighbour: Sophisticated clothing for ppl who look like they collect rare architecture magazines.
— Blue Button Shop: Fun Japanese goods. A fav. I wish this was near me! 😩 Image
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— SSENSE: One of the biggest high-end fashion retailers. Every cool fashion dude shops here.
— Uncle Otis: For young guys who like heritage style. They carry Barbour, Monitaly, Orslow, and the like
— Tate + Yoko: For people who bleed indigo. One of Canada's best denim shops. Image
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— Lost & Found: A great boutique that carries a bit of everything. Margaret Howell, Engineered Garments, and hard-to-find labels like Man-tle. Honestly top notch.
— Gravity Pope: A little more contemporary in vision, but with heritage brands.
— Dutil: Another great denim shop. Image
— Roden Gray: High fashion store for people who say things like Central Saint Martins. They carry CdG, Kiko Kostadinov, and Issey Miyake.
— Wallace Mercantile: Heritage-inspired brands like Blurhms, Kaptain Sunshine, and Frizmworks.
— Miloh: Another great denim and workwear shop. Image
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There are simply too many good Canadian companies to name. Some may not even know that popular names such as Dime and JJJJound are Canadian. I've run out of room, but hopefully the above gets you started. Follow companies on Instagram & support small businesses when possible. 🇨🇦 Image
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More from @dieworkwear

Jul 19
Twitter has a character limit, so I assume (intelligent) people will read context and know I'm talking about interior design and fashion, which today are coded as "gay interests" for men. Not painting or architecture, which carry no such stigma.

I will elaborate 🧵
IMO, it's absolutely true that American Protestants were uniquely against certain forms of ornamentation, including fashion. For instance, the Quakers deliberately shunned adornment and extravagance in dress, stressing the importance of simplicity. Image
In his book "The Suit," Christopher Breward writes about how Quakers would talk about "troubling lapses into self-fashionableness by wayward members" during meetings. However, the Quakers were small in number and often seen as unusual by their fellow non-Quaker community members Image
Read 19 tweets
Jul 17
I believe this jacket is from Dobell, a company that produces their tailoring in Turkey. I'll show you some telltale signs of quality and where you can buy a tailored jacket made in Britain. 🧵
I don't think there's anything wrong with buying clothes made abroad (I believe in free trade). However, I think it's strange when people rail against "globalism" and free trade, while benefitting from these things. Talk is cheap; one should put their money where their mouth is. Image
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I asked Lee where he bought his jacket, but have thus far received no word. However, we can guess whether this is a high-end or low-end garment from two things.

Can you spot them? Image
Read 19 tweets
Jul 15
I disagree that this is an aesthetically pleasing photo. Tristan's outfit ruins it and I'll tell you why. 🧵 Image
I'll assume Tristan is telling the truth when he says he used Photoshop and not AI. If so, this is a very impressive Photoshop job. By removing the scaffold tarp, you reveal more of the building. By removing the other cars, you also achieve more aesthetic coherence. Image
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What is aesthetic coherence? It's the idea that things based on shared history or spirit go together. For instance, I've long said that the Cybertruck could look very cool if you wore certain outfits (futuristic techwear) and lived in a Brutalist home. Image
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Read 15 tweets
Jul 14
Some people are incredulous that you can wear certain shoes without socks, such as leather loafers. Much depends on your body and climate. But I'll tell you one reason why you find this difficult to believe: you buy low quality footwear. 🧵 Image
It's absolutely possible to wear certain shoes without socks. As mentioned in an earlier thread, men have been doing this for over a hundred years. Going sockless makes sense if the outfit is semi-casual (not business clothes). Image
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In fact, if you wear socks with certain footwear styles, such as espadrilles, you will look like you don't know what you're doing. Image
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Read 16 tweets
Jul 13
Tim is right and wrong here. I'll tell you where he's right and where he's wrong. 🧵 Image
It's perfectly fine to wear slip-on shoes without socks. Those who suggest otherwise are simply ignorant and unaware about the history of men's dress.

You don't have to take my word for it. We can go back to Apparel Arts. Image
Apparel Arts was an early 20th century trade publication that taught men how to dress well. It was sent to clothiers and tailors so they could smartly advise their clients, but it later became a public-facing publication under the title "Esquire." Image
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Read 24 tweets
Jul 11
I get this sort of comment all the time, often about bespoke suits or mechanical watches. "These things are boring," "This is only for rich people," or "Who cares?"

Let me tell you a story. 🧵 Image
Before the age of ready-to-wear, men had clothes made for them, either in the home or, if they could afford one, by a tailor. Ready-made clothing was limited to simple workwear, such as what was worn by sailors or miners.

Tailoring shop, 1780: Image
In this older method, a tailor would measure you, sometimes using a string (before the invention of tailor's tape). Then they'd use those measurements to draft a pattern, cut the cloth, and produce a garment. This process is called bespoke. Image
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Read 20 tweets

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