derek guy Profile picture
Apr 14 26 tweets 16 min read Read on X
This video has made the rounds on nearly every social media platform—and like others in its genre, it's led people to reduce fashion production to overly simplistic narratives.

So let’s take a look at why this bag might not be quite the same as the one you’d find at Hermès. 🧵
Most people have a very functional relationship with their wardrobe. They choose garments for their utility—warmth, comfort, protection from the elements. In this context, quality is measured by durability and function: how long a piece lasts and how well it does its job. Image
Image
Others dress with social aims in mind, such as climbing the corporate ladder, attracting a partner, gaining entry into certain circles. In these cases, luxury goods convey status, wealth, or cultural fluency. It’s still about utility—just of a more symbolic kind. Image
Image
But there’s another way to appreciate fashion—through craft. It’s not about how well something performs or what it communicates. Instead, it’s about valuing the skill, time, and intention embedded in the object itself, even if no one else cares or recognizes those qualities.
In the original TikTok video, the maker claims his bags are just like Hermès because they use the same materials. That’s like me saying my spaghetti is on par with a Michelin-starred chef’s just because we both use tomatoes and flour. In fact, skill matters more than materials. Image
Image
So what sets Hermès bags apart? A key element lies in how it’s sewn. Hermès employs a technique called the saddle stitch. The maker first pierces the leather with an awl, then threads two needles through each hole from opposite sides, arms stretching wide like a bird's wings.
This time-intensive method originates in harness making. When Thierry Hermès founded his company in 1837, it was one of many Parisian workshops producing bridles, saddles, and reins for the horse-drawn carriages. Hence why the company's logo still looks like this: Image
In this context, a saddle stitch about function. Unlike a machine-sewn lockstitch, which can unravel if a single thread breaks, a hand-sewn saddle stitch remains intact. Each pass of the needle locks the thread in place independently. When riding horses, this is about safety. Image
The arrival of automobiles in the late 19th century gradually swept horse-drawn carriages off the streets. As the need for harnesses and saddles declined, the leatherworkers who once supported that industry adapted by turning their skills toward other leather goods, such as bags. Image
In fact, Hermès is hardly the only maker using this technique. There are dozens of independent French artisans making similar things: Victor Dast, Serge Amoruso, Peter Charles, & Louis Chelli. My friend @RJdeMans, author of the brilliant book Swan Songs, uses Bertrand Montillet. Image
Image
Image
Image
That said, not all saddle-stitched goods are equal. A few years ago, this video went viral thanks to a clickbait title: “We Made a $5,000 Hermès Wallet for $70!” But IMO, the edge finishing looked gloopy, and the final product lacked the refinement you’d expect from Hermès.
For comparison, here are Hermès wallets. IMO, stitching is neater and more precise. The wallet also folds more cleanly, likely bc Hermès selected a more appropriate leather. To be clear, Corter makes solid products. I just don’t think their wallet is on the same level as Hermès. Image
Image
Image
Image
Beyond added durability, a saddle stitch also offers a visual appeal. When executed properly, there are no gaps between the stitches, creating a cleaner finish. Compare the handsewn Hermès bag and machine-sewn Symthson wallet examples below. Image
Image
There's also the finishing. The dark brown bag is from Hermès; the tan one from Glenroyal. The Hermès edge finishing makes separate layers of leather appear seamlessly fused into a single whole. In contrast, the Glenroyal’s edges are rougher with clearly visible layers. Image
Image
Image
When everything is done well, you get beautiful bags like these. When you learn about the different dimensions of craftsmanship, it's easy to tick off things like checkboxes (e.g. "is it saddle sewn?"). But I encourage you to train your eyes to look at things as a whole. Image
Image
Image
Image
For instance, the careful pattern drafting, pad stitching, and ironwork in Atelier Willow's suits translate to this beautiful shaping: curved chest, conical sleeves, and lapels that bloom out of the garment's buttoning point. It's about the total silhouette, not just each part.
Image
Image
J. Crew uses pretty nice materials (sometimes from Loro Piana!). But the difference in craftsmanship means that their garments don't have the same shaping. (Reasonable as they don't cost as much!). Image
Image
Image
Image
I saw some people here say that I'm elitist and racist bc I don't think a random dude on TikTok is making bags at the same level at Hermes. But notice that the TikTok guy isn't actually showing you the craft that goes into his bags (nor are there many customer reviews). Image
There are plenty of Asian makers who do incredible work: Hosoi (France), Saic Firenze (Italy), Ortus (Japan), Atelier Shiang (Taiwan), and Shiue Wen Jhuang (also Taiwan).

My favorite is a Vietnamese-American woman named Bellanie Salcedo, one half of Chester Mox in the US. Image
Image
Image
Image
Bellanie trained under a former Hermès craftsperson and sources leather from Hermès-owned tanneries. She does fully bespoke work and makes everything from bags to wallets to belts. My favorite item, her "dogleg card cases," start at just $75—a fraction of what Hermes charges. Image
Image
Image
Image
I think you should buy things because you'll love and use them. Ideally, they make you just as excited in year ten as day one. Hermès bags are made from full grain leathers that take on a patina, but that patina only develops if you actually love using the item! Image
Image
Image
Image
I think the whole project of buying a dupe is failed from the start because the object will always live in the shadow of the thing you actually want. You should buy things on their own terms. Is the item well-made? Does it excite you? Do you appreciate the maker's story? Image
Image
We are living in a time where product is increasingly separated from process. I have no doubt that AI could make physical copies of Japanese woodblock prints. But I don't love those just bc they decorate my walls—I love them for *how* they're made, even if others don't care.
Image
Image
Image
This video says little about craft. The appeal hinges entirely on the idea that you can get a status symbol for less money. But will you truly value and cherish something for decades if your introduction to it starts with the same sound effect used to signal a male erection?
Certainly, Hermès charges a premium. I support getting something similar from independent artisans for less. But even they won't charge just $1,000 for such labor intensive work. You are paying not only for their time, but the years it took to develop those skills. Image
I should note: a saddle stitch can also be faked. If you buy something under the presumption that it was handsewn—a mark of time, skill, and craftsmanship—but it turned out the person just ran it under a machine, would you be upset? Can you tell the difference? These are the issues at play.

Real craftspeople take years to develop a reputation, sometimes on forums where discerning customers can tell the difference between small details. Encourage you to be a bit more discerning when someone seeks to capitalize off cheap cynicism.

• • •

Missing some Tweet in this thread? You can try to force a refresh
 

Keep Current with derek guy

derek guy Profile picture

Stay in touch and get notified when new unrolls are available from this author!

Read all threads

This Thread may be Removed Anytime!

PDF

Twitter may remove this content at anytime! Save it as PDF for later use!

Try unrolling a thread yourself!

how to unroll video
  1. Follow @ThreadReaderApp to mention us!

  2. From a Twitter thread mention us with a keyword "unroll"
@threadreaderapp unroll

Practice here first or read more on our help page!

More from @dieworkwear

Jun 7
I can tell you who goes to cobblers. And a bit about the trade. 🧵 Image
In the 18th century, men got shoes from two types of people. The upper classes went to cordwainers, who measured feet and made shoes from scratch. The lower working-classes went to cobblers, who cobbled together shoes using scraps from salvaged pre-owned footwear. Image
A cobbler was also someone who repaired footwear. Hence the Middle English term cobeler ("mender of shoes") deriving from an early form of cobble ("to mend roughly, patch"). In shoemaking, cordwainers and cobblers were considered distinct trades. Cobbler was lower on the ladder. Image
Image
Read 14 tweets
Jun 5
An offhand comment about how Prince Harry doesn't dress very well seems to have stirred up his fans. So here's a thread on how both Harry and William don't dress well when compared to the older men in their family — and how this represents a broader decline in taste. 🧵 Image
I should say at the outset that I don't care about the drama surrounding the Royal family. I don't care if you're Team Markle or Team Middleton or Team whatever. I am simply talking about clothes. The following is also not meant to be personal jabs; just an honest review.
The first thing to understand is that select members of royal family were incredible dressers. Most notable is Edward VIII, the Duke of Windsor. For a time, whatever he wore, others followed. He popularized cuffed trousers, belts, and a tailoring style known as the "drape cut." Image
Image
Read 24 tweets
May 31
I respectfully disagree. To me, this represents a poor financial decision. Let me show you why. 🧵
When we zoom in on the wallet, we see the label "Saint Laurent Paris," a French luxury fashion house that became popular about ten years ago when Kanye started wearing the label. This was also when Hedi Slimane was at the company's creative helm. Image
Image
For many young men at the time, Saint Laurent was their entry into designer fashion, partly because the designs were conceptually approachable (LA rocker, Hot Topic), while the Kanye co-sign made them cool and the prices signaled status (and for the uninformed, suggested quality) Image
Image
Read 18 tweets
May 24
When I was on a menswear forum, navy trousers were of great controversy. Discussions about them lasted many years, resulting in long-lasting rivalries. Sometimes people refrained from speaking about them out of fear of dredging up old debates.

Here's a thread on navy pants 🧵
First, I should state at the outset that there's no way to have this conversation without, in some way, speaking crudely about certain classes of people. I make no judgements about their worth or dignity. I am only describing the semiotics of men's dress.
Second, everything depends on your goals. Dress is not a science, so there are no overriding laws. Everything is contextual to culture. More on this later

Before we start, here are two outfits involving green sport coats. Which do you like better? Please choose before moving on. Image
Image
Read 20 tweets
May 20
I get this question a lot. I don't have strong views on how transmasc people should dress, but since I often get the question, I've thought about it a bit. Will share some thoughts in this thread. 🧵
My general feeling is that this question often approaches the idea of style from a perspective I don't share. I don't believe in approaching dress first from the perspective of body type. For instance, there are a lot of guides online that break down body types like this. Image
I disagree with this perspective because they always seem to be about forcing the person into one narrow ideal. So if you're short, they tell you how to wear certain things to give the illusion of height. Or if you're heavy, they say how you can dress to hide your weight. Image
Read 21 tweets
May 20
I don't think people such as Hegesth are intentionally choosing to dress like this to signal they're "not like the swamp." I think we're simply in a generational change in terms of taste. Will show some examples. 🧵
A hundred years ago, men's dress was governed by time, place, and occasion (TPO). If you were of a certain social position and had to do a certain thing, you were expected to wear certain outfits. If you didn't know these rules, a tailor would tell you. Image
Over the course of the 20th century, these rules loosened, partly because society became more accepting of different social groups and their lifestyles (which is a good thing). By the close of the 20th century, the rise of business casual swept tailoring out of offices Image
Read 20 tweets

Did Thread Reader help you today?

Support us! We are indie developers!


This site is made by just two indie developers on a laptop doing marketing, support and development! Read more about the story.

Become a Premium Member ($3/month or $30/year) and get exclusive features!

Become Premium

Don't want to be a Premium member but still want to support us?

Make a small donation by buying us coffee ($5) or help with server cost ($10)

Donate via Paypal

Or Donate anonymously using crypto!

Ethereum

0xfe58350B80634f60Fa6Dc149a72b4DFbc17D341E copy

Bitcoin

3ATGMxNzCUFzxpMCHL5sWSt4DVtS8UqXpi copy

Thank you for your support!

Follow Us!

:(