It's the biggest request we get from clients - how can they maximize storage? In my experience, storage opportunities are often hidden in plain sight.
Here are 11 examples, all from my own work [plus a #12 that's kind of cheating but I stand by it]: 👇
1. Weird bump in a wall? Stick some cabinetry or shelving there!
This piece is in the kitchen, and is the mail/papers landing spot, dog food storage, etc - all the stuff you want near the kitchen, but not in the middle of all your cooking stuff.
[Before and after shown]
2. Upside down vanity.
Put a big drawer at the *bottom* of the sink cabinet - you still get the wide open storage area under the sink, but now you get a full sized drawer as well. [Can't put it at the top, it'll hit the sink!]
3. Thicken a wall.
This room was very narrow, and we still needed to fit closet and dresser space. By building in the bed, we saved space, and could integrate nightstand nooks, hanging storage, drawers [including under the bed], as well as high storage.
These types of closets take up a lot less room, and are a lot more efficient at storing stuff - a win-win!
4. Use the thickness of the wall framing itself.
In this bathroom, we needed to hide the machinery for the steam shower, which meant we were only left with the thickness of the 2x4 wall - no room for a cabinet. Or is there?!
Using panels that match the walls, and touch latch mechanisms to avoid handles/hardware, there is actually floor to ceiling storage that's only 4" deep - perfect for toiletries!
Here's another variation on that concept, this time next to a toilet. The lower shelf can hold extra TP, while the upper cabinet functions as an extra medicine cabinet - and as a nice aesthetic focal point in a mostly white room.
5. Steal some space under the uppers.
Bring some of the upper cabinets down to the counter, especially in a corner which would be largely dead/unusable anyway - it's very useful for hiding countertop appliances, coffee maker, etc!
6. Create "bin cabinets" [and make storage aesthetically pleasing].
In this active family space, in a house with no basement or attic, we needed somewhere to easily store bins [holiday decorations, seasonal clothes, art supplies, camping gear, etc]...so we hid it in plain sight, with these extra deep, colorful cabinets, perfectly sized to hold big plastic tubs.
7. Fill awkward corners with built-ins - in a mix of open and closed storage.
Next to the fireplace is a classic example of this kind of leftover space - might as well fill it with usable storage! Closed storage is great for board games and stuff you don't want to see; open shelves are great for photos, books, collections, etc.
Bonus move: do glass doors to show off what's on the shelves, while keeping dust out!
8. Find pockets around HVAC, plumbing, etc.
This shelf was added during construction, after we saw that there was room in between the HVAC equipment and ductwork to slip this right in.
Be ready to spot these opportunities during construction, and make sure subs are being efficient with their runs and routing, so you actually have room to do other stuff like this!
9. Safes and secret rooms!
I can't show you pictures of these...that would defeat the purpose 🙃 But we've installed safes and secret compartments in almost every project we've done - in eaves, behind cabinets, concealed under floors - you name it!
10. Custom headboard.
In a tight bedroom, we designed this custom headboard, which we then filled up w/ storage, nightstands, lights, outlets, etc. Doing something custom like this is a MUCH more efficient use of space, and isn't always more expensive than regular furniture!
11. Get inspiration from commercial spaces.
In this very tight bathroom, we built in the TP holder, and if you look closely, you can see a little flap just below that for the trashcan. This is something you don't often see in a home, but why not?! It's a fun and practical idea.
12. Get rid of your stuff!!
I know, that's kind of cheating to list it as a storage option...but it's the cheapest and most efficient approach...just have less stuff! Your stuff will expand to fill whatever space you give it...just give it a bit less :)
That's it for now....I've got so many great ones in design and/or under construction that I can't wait to show you...just have to finish them first!
- dressing rooms in small spaces
- built-in beds, dressers, makeup tables
- hidden kitchen storage
- mudrooms
So stay tuned :)
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For residential projects, you can [and should] ask for an itemized cost estimate from a GC, even on early bids.
But - the accuracy of that estimate is only as good as whatever you give them to base the estimate on.
A ranking, from least accurate to most accurate 👇
[unsurprisingly, I provide my clients with #10]
1. Google search/HGTV.
This is basically worthless, and usually waaaay underpriced.
They leave out jurisdictional requirements, regional considerations, site considerations, etc.
Don't bother.
2. Phone call with contractor.
Sure, you told them what you have in mind, but what they're really telling you is what the last few projects *they* did cost [while adding some %]. There is no way to know if this is anywhere close to the same thing *you* want.
Even if we give all GCs the same drawings/specs, we inevitably get different things back from each GC.
Especially on residential projects, it's *really* hard compare things "apples to apples."
Here are 10 things I look for/do:
Before we dive in - this is mostly referring to residential work. Commercial/larger work is a different animal - many of these principals still apply in concept, though!
And - construction is highly regional. What is normal in one place is highly unusual in another place. Understanding local construction and estimating norms is vital - you can lose a lot of money by making assumptions based on another region's construction norms.
One example: what framers will do. Where I learned construction, "rough framers" will frame up the house, and install weather barrier and windows.
In other locations, they will also install furring for rainscreens, or they won't do the windows, or they do the windows but not the skylights, etc...
You get the picture. If you make the wrong assumption here, a lot of work [and $$] can fall through the cracks.
Back when I was working construction, a plumber took me aside and said, "Marilyn, here are the 2 rules of plumbing: Blue is cold, red is hot, and sh!t don't flow uphill."
Me: "Bob that's 3 things."
Him: *winks* "I'm a plumber, not a mathematician!" 👇🧵
Let's break that down...because even though Bob was making fun of himself, he also knew his, um, sh!t.
"Blue is cold, red is hot." I think most of you probably already know this one, so no need to go too in depth on it. Fittings, pipes, drawings, etc are often coded with red/blue to help everyone keep things organized in planning and install.
Let's dig into the second part of Bob's advice: "Sh!t don't flow uphill."
1. Fall.
Well yeah, obviously. But what does that mean for construction? Firstly, it means that you have to have "fall" on any drain line [shower/tub, toilet, sink] - it has to slope to wherever you want it to go.
Overhead lighting: everyone does it, but most do it poorly!
Even with "can lights" and cheap LED pucks, there are things you can do to improve overhead lighting that don't cost much [if anything] and will make a vast improvement in your lighting.
Read on👇👇
1. Beam spread.
Every fixture has a "beam spread," or the "width" of the cone of light that is delivered. Even at the same lumens [perceived light power], a wider beam spread will not reach the floor with the same "power" as a narrower beam spread.
Look this info up [on your specific fixture], combine that with your ceiling height, and already you'll be on your way to a better design.
Most off-the-shelf "cans" or "pucks" have a beam spread of 40-60 degrees.
When we do a lighting plan [because yes, we do that on our projects!], we include a circle that shows us the extents of the beam spread, which helps with planning.
Keep in mind this isn't a hard line, it's more of a range. Placing the circles closer together will result in more light delivered, placing them further apart will result in softer light.
And remember that this circle varies according to fixture and ceiling height.
Designing and installing residential HVAC systems: 10 things you *must* do!
HVAC often gets left to the subs during install, when it should be planned ahead as part of the design.
Good subs and GCs welcome this kind of planning, bc it makes their lives easier.
Read on 🧵
First of all, this is not a comprehensive list. There are many more than 10 things you need to do to have a well-designed and well-installed HVAC system.
As usual, work with your local pros for local climate/code rules.
Ok, let's dive in:
1. Start with a well insulated and properly air-sealed home, with good windows and good detailing. If your house is poorly insulated and/or is drafty, your system will have to work that much harder.
"Build it tight, and ventilate right" as the saying goes.