derek guy Profile picture
Jul 19 19 tweets 8 min read Read on X
Twitter has a character limit, so I assume (intelligent) people will read context and know I'm talking about interior design and fashion, which today are coded as "gay interests" for men. Not painting or architecture, which carry no such stigma.

I will elaborate 🧵
IMO, it's absolutely true that American Protestants were uniquely against certain forms of ornamentation, including fashion. For instance, the Quakers deliberately shunned adornment and extravagance in dress, stressing the importance of simplicity. Image
In his book "The Suit," Christopher Breward writes about how Quakers would talk about "troubling lapses into self-fashionableness by wayward members" during meetings. However, the Quakers were small in number and often seen as unusual by their fellow non-Quaker community members Image
The Methodists had a larger following, especially among the working class. Their views on dress can be read in a 1790 book written by their leader John Wesley, simply titled "Advice to the People Called Methodists, with Regard to Dress."

It says: "Buy no velvets, no silks, ... Image
... no fine linen, no superfluities, no mere ornaments, though ever so much in fashion. Wear nothing, though you have it already, which is of a glaring colour, or which is in any kind of gay, glistering, showy; nothing made in the very height of fashion, nothing to attract ... Image
the eyes of bystanders [...] Neither do I advise men, to wear coloured waistcoats, shining stockings, glittering or costly buckles or buttons, either on their coats or on their sleeves."

The same is true for other large American Protestant groups: Presbyterians, Baptists, etc.
They all shared an anti-materialist view of the world that believed we should turn our eyes away from worldly temptations and focus on charity and God. Dress should be plain, modest, and "proper," not ostentatious or vain. Thus, we get simple, plain clothing. Image
Many will wonder how we got the suit, as to them, this is "dressing up" (read: fancy). But it's important to remember that the suit emerged as a plainer alternative to earlier dress. American colonists wore breeches, stockings, doublets, jerkins, and long coats with embroidery Image
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Thus, the suit rose partly because it was considered plainer and more "masculine." It's also worth remembering that Americans popularized the two-piece suit as business wear, dropping the waistcoat that would have been considered standard back in Britain. Now it's even plainer! Image
IMO, American Protestants have always viewed certain forms of aesthetics with suspicion, such as ornate dress and interior decor, favoring instead plain, functional interiors and simple clothing. They believed this signaled Christian ethics and democratic norms.
One only has to remember that many American colonists were English migrants (migrants!), often Puritans. Back in England, clothes carried important social and political connotations. The English Puritans wanted to rid the Church of England of Catholic influence. Image
During the English Civil War, the Puritans sided with the Parliamentarians, while the Cavaliers supported the royalists. Since the Puritans wore simple clothes and the Cavaliers wore more ornate dress, the Puritans carried their suspicion of "fancy clothes" when they landed in US Image
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This discussion started because I said it was once believed that women and gay men are born with a sense for aesthetics, like how some have a talent for singing. This is how we get things like "Queer Eye for the Straight Guy." The gay man will help you with his super powers! Image
IMO, it's not the case that women and gay men are born with certain skills. They simply don't feel pressured to reject certain areas of aesthetic life. For a long time, women were excluded from "serious" domains, such as business, government, and academia.
Thus, "frivolous" areas, such as interior design and fashion, were left to them, while men lived a "life of the mind." I also believe that many of our stereotypes for gay men came from the trial of Oscar Wilde, who was into theatre, famous for bon mots, and very fashionable. Image
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The combination of all these legacies: American Protestantism, English Civil War, gender divide in work, and the history of gay stereotypes, means that many American men are deeply uncomfortable with developing an interest in certain things, such as interior design and fashion Image
They believe being too interested in decor or fashion makes you "less of a man" by aligning with women or gay men. You only have to read the replies to the original post to see this. If a man goes shopping for lamps with his wife, he has to frown, if he goes at all. Smile = gay. Image
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In his essay "The Secret Vice," originally published in the 1970s, Tom Wolfe suggested that the average American man would be more comfortable reading Playboy in public than a clothing catalog. I think he was exaggerating ... but not by much. Image
For some reason, certain areas of aesthetic life, such as paintings and architecture, have escaped this stigma.

Twitter has character limits, so I am limited in what I'm able to cover. But I thought it was obvs I'm talking about dress and interior decor

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More from @dieworkwear

Jul 17
I believe this jacket is from Dobell, a company that produces their tailoring in Turkey. I'll show you some telltale signs of quality and where you can buy a tailored jacket made in Britain. 🧵
I don't think there's anything wrong with buying clothes made abroad (I believe in free trade). However, I think it's strange when people rail against "globalism" and free trade, while benefitting from these things. Talk is cheap; one should put their money where their mouth is. Image
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I asked Lee where he bought his jacket, but have thus far received no word. However, we can guess whether this is a high-end or low-end garment from two things.

Can you spot them? Image
Read 19 tweets
Jul 15
I disagree that this is an aesthetically pleasing photo. Tristan's outfit ruins it and I'll tell you why. 🧵 Image
I'll assume Tristan is telling the truth when he says he used Photoshop and not AI. If so, this is a very impressive Photoshop job. By removing the scaffold tarp, you reveal more of the building. By removing the other cars, you also achieve more aesthetic coherence. Image
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What is aesthetic coherence? It's the idea that things based on shared history or spirit go together. For instance, I've long said that the Cybertruck could look very cool if you wore certain outfits (futuristic techwear) and lived in a Brutalist home. Image
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Jul 14
Some people are incredulous that you can wear certain shoes without socks, such as leather loafers. Much depends on your body and climate. But I'll tell you one reason why you find this difficult to believe: you buy low quality footwear. 🧵 Image
It's absolutely possible to wear certain shoes without socks. As mentioned in an earlier thread, men have been doing this for over a hundred years. Going sockless makes sense if the outfit is semi-casual (not business clothes). Image
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In fact, if you wear socks with certain footwear styles, such as espadrilles, you will look like you don't know what you're doing. Image
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Read 16 tweets
Jul 13
Tim is right and wrong here. I'll tell you where he's right and where he's wrong. 🧵 Image
It's perfectly fine to wear slip-on shoes without socks. Those who suggest otherwise are simply ignorant and unaware about the history of men's dress.

You don't have to take my word for it. We can go back to Apparel Arts. Image
Apparel Arts was an early 20th century trade publication that taught men how to dress well. It was sent to clothiers and tailors so they could smartly advise their clients, but it later became a public-facing publication under the title "Esquire." Image
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Read 24 tweets
Jul 11
I get this sort of comment all the time, often about bespoke suits or mechanical watches. "These things are boring," "This is only for rich people," or "Who cares?"

Let me tell you a story. 🧵 Image
Before the age of ready-to-wear, men had clothes made for them, either in the home or, if they could afford one, by a tailor. Ready-made clothing was limited to simple workwear, such as what was worn by sailors or miners.

Tailoring shop, 1780: Image
In this older method, a tailor would measure you, sometimes using a string (before the invention of tailor's tape). Then they'd use those measurements to draft a pattern, cut the cloth, and produce a garment. This process is called bespoke. Image
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Read 20 tweets
Jul 11
As I've stated many times, suit jackets and sport coats are made from many layers of material, including haircloth, canvas, and padding. These layers give the garment its structure so it doesn't fall on you like a t-shirt or dress shirt. Image
For the chest and lapels, these layers can be attached to each other using a single-needle roll-padding machine, such as you see here. This is what you'll typically see on factory-made suits (this is a Strobel KA-ED machine). Happens both on the low- and high-end.
Read 7 tweets

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