As some may know, my family is from Vietnam. My parents fled Saigon shortly after the Tet Offensive, as bombs were falling around them and they weren't sure what was going to happen once the North Vietnamese took over the city.
When my dad left Vietnam, he wasn't able to take much with him — just some family photos of life back home, some clothes, and a 1960s Rolex Datejust he bought as a present for himself. Growing up, I always saw my dad wear this watch. It was basically part of his body.
So when he gave it to me as a birthday present many years ago, I felt it was very special. I love the watch because it reminds me of him, one of the most important people in my life.
IMO, the Rolex Datejust is a perfect accompaniment to casual tailoring and dressier casualwear.
My second watch is an Omega "Dirty Dozen."
During WWII, the British Ministry of Defense (MoD) wanted a watch that would stand up to the rigors of war. So they spec'd out a watch: black dial, luminous markers, Arabic numerals, shatterproof crystal, and stainless steel case.
The idea was that this could be easily read at all times and be durable. Companies that fulfilled the order included some famous watchmaking names, such as Jaeger-LeCoultre, Omega, and IWC. And some lesser-known names, such as Record, Timor, and Vertex.
The back of a Dirty Dozen watch will have two engravings. WWW stands for Watch, Wrist, Waterproof. The broad arrow signals this is governmental goods. My specific watch was made by Omega and features a replacement NATO dial (so no radioactive radium lume).
I like the watch because of its history in the fight against fascism. IMO, the style goes well with hoodies, flannels, chore coats, trucker jackets, and anything that can be described as rugged or workwear.
Finally, my third watch is a Patek 2551. It descends from the Patek 96. First released in 1932 with a LeCoultre movement, the 96 is generally regarded as the watch that set the template for dress watches. The round, coin-edge case and simple proportions has been endlessly copied.
The prob is that the 96 wears rather small for contemporary standards, so people like me, who enjoy the simplicity of the 96 but prefer a slightly larger size, often go for another model. Mine is the Patek 2551, a 36mm 1950s watch with a "Disco Volante" case (flying saucer).
I like it partly for its technical innovation. The 2551 is powered by Patek's 12-600, which is the company's first automatic movement. The movement was much better than any other automatic at the time, partly because of its impeccable finishing.
In this video, you can see a watchmaker take the movement apart — all the radiating stripes, "swirling" circles, and chamfered edges you see were done by hand. The 18k bi-directional gold rotor also features an engine-turned barleycorn guilloché (also done by hand).
The 12-600 features Patek's Gyromax balance wheel. Instead of having adjustable screws on the outside of the balance rim (video 1), Patek put turnable weights into recessed sections on top of the rim (pic 2).
Video via IG peterelliotglomb
According to Patek, this allows for a larger balance diameter, which increases the moment of inertia and improves stability. This also reduces air resistance (since no screws protrude), enables finer and more stable rate adjustment, and contributes to greater long-term accuracy.
For me, there's something very romantic about Patek's designs. IMO, they are the perfect dress watch. And so, they sit naturally with dressier clothes, such as dark worsteds suits and evening clothes (even if it's just a gray tweed with charcoal flannel trousers).
So here we see three reasons to like a watch:
— Personal connection
— Relation to history
— Design and technical engineering
There are certainly people who buy watches purely as a financial flex. But in my years of wearing a watch, few have commented unless they're into watches
I personally don't like smart watches because I think of them as semi-disposable. You use them for five years and that's it. As more of our world gets consumed by disposable products and AI, I think it's amazing to see a handcrafted item last 100+ years.
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Let's first establish good vs bad ways to think about style. The first pic is correct — style is a kind of social language and you have to figure out what type of person you are. The second pic is stupid bc it takes style as disconnected objects ("this is in" vs "this is out").
I should also note here that I'm only talking about style. I'm not here to argue with you about ergonomics, water bottle holders, or whether something accommodates your Dell laptop. I'm am talking about aesthetics.
Watch these two videos. Then answer these two questions:
— Which of the two men is better dressed?
— How does each come off?
I think Carney is better dressed, partly because his clothes fit better. Notice that his jacket collar always hugs his neck, while Pierre Poilievre's jacket collar never touches him.
The level of craftsmanship that goes into a lot of Japanese menswear simply doesn't exist in the United States. You can do this for many categories — suits, jeans, hats, etc.
In this thread, I will show you just one category: men's shoes 🧵
For this comparison, I will focus on Japanese bespoke shoemaking vs. US ready-to-wear. The level of bespoke craftsmanship shown here simply doesn't exist in the US, so a Japanese bespoke vs. US bespoke comparison would be unfair. US bespoke is mostly about orthopedic work.
So instead, I will focus on the best that the US has to offer: ready-to-wear Alden.
On a basic level, top-end Japanese shoes are better because they are handwelted, whereas Alden shoes are Goodyear welted. The first involves more handwork and can be resoled more often.
In 1999, a group of Haitians were tired of political disorder and dreamed of a better life in the United States. So they built a small, 23-foot boat by hand using pine trees, scrap wood, and used nails. They called the boat "Believe in God." 🧵
In a boat powered by nothing but a sail, they somehow made it from Tortuga Island to the Bahamas (about a 90 mile distance). Then from the Bahamas, they set sail again. But a few days and some hundred miles later, their makeshift boat began to sink.
The men on the boat were so dehydrated this point, one slipped in and out of consciousness, unable to stand. They were all resigned to their death.
Luckily, they were rescued at the last minute by the US Coast Guard.
After this post went viral, I called Caroline Groves, a world-class bespoke shoemaker, to discuss how women's shoes are made. I normally don't talk about womenswear, but I found the information interesting, so I thought I would share what I learned here. 🧵
Footwear is broadly broken into two categories: bespoke and ready-to-wear. In London, bespoke makers, including those for women, are largely focused on traditional styles, such as wingtip derbies and loafers. Emiko Matsuda is great for this.
In Paris, there's Massaro, a historic firm that has been operating since 1894, now owned by Chanel. Their designs are less about creating the women's equivalent of traditional men's footwear and more about things such as heels or creative styles. Aesthetic is still "traditional."
Earlier today, Roger Stone announced his partnership with a menswear company, where together they've released a collection of tailored clothing items.
Here is my review of those pieces. 🧵
The line is mostly comprised of suits and sport coats, supplemented with dress shirts and one pair of odd trousers (tailor-speak for a pair of pants made without a matching jacket). Suits start at $1,540; sport coats are $1,150. One suit is $5,400 bc it's made from Scabal fabric
Let's start with the good points. These are fully canvassed jackets, meaning a free floating canvas has been tacked onto the face fabric to give it some weight and structure. This is better than a half-canvas and fully fused construction, but requires more time and labor.