As some may know, my family is from Vietnam. My parents fled Saigon shortly after the Tet Offensive, as bombs were falling around them and they weren't sure what was going to happen once the North Vietnamese took over the city.
When my dad left Vietnam, he wasn't able to take much with him — just some family photos of life back home, some clothes, and a 1960s Rolex Datejust he bought as a present for himself. Growing up, I always saw my dad wear this watch. It was basically part of his body.
So when he gave it to me as a birthday present many years ago, I felt it was very special. I love the watch because it reminds me of him, one of the most important people in my life.
IMO, the Rolex Datejust is a perfect accompaniment to casual tailoring and dressier casualwear.
My second watch is an Omega "Dirty Dozen."
During WWII, the British Ministry of Defense (MoD) wanted a watch that would stand up to the rigors of war. So they spec'd out a watch: black dial, luminous markers, Arabic numerals, shatterproof crystal, and stainless steel case.
The idea was that this could be easily read at all times and be durable. Companies that fulfilled the order included some famous watchmaking names, such as Jaeger-LeCoultre, Omega, and IWC. And some lesser-known names, such as Record, Timor, and Vertex.
The back of a Dirty Dozen watch will have two engravings. WWW stands for Watch, Wrist, Waterproof. The broad arrow signals this is governmental goods. My specific watch was made by Omega and features a replacement NATO dial (so no radioactive radium lume).
I like the watch because of its history in the fight against fascism. IMO, the style goes well with hoodies, flannels, chore coats, trucker jackets, and anything that can be described as rugged or workwear.
Finally, my third watch is a Patek 2551. It descends from the Patek 96. First released in 1932 with a LeCoultre movement, the 96 is generally regarded as the watch that set the template for dress watches. The round, coin-edge case and simple proportions has been endlessly copied.
The prob is that the 96 wears rather small for contemporary standards, so people like me, who enjoy the simplicity of the 96 but prefer a slightly larger size, often go for another model. Mine is the Patek 2551, a 36mm 1950s watch with a "Disco Volante" case (flying saucer).
I like it partly for its technical innovation. The 2551 is powered by Patek's 12-600, which is the company's first automatic movement. The movement was much better than any other automatic at the time, partly because of its impeccable finishing.
In this video, you can see a watchmaker take the movement apart — all the radiating stripes, "swirling" circles, and chamfered edges you see were done by hand. The 18k bi-directional gold rotor also features an engine-turned barleycorn guilloché (also done by hand).
The 12-600 features Patek's Gyromax balance wheel. Instead of having adjustable screws on the outside of the balance rim (video 1), Patek put turnable weights into recessed sections on top of the rim (pic 2).
Video via IG peterelliotglomb
According to Patek, this allows for a larger balance diameter, which increases the moment of inertia and improves stability. This also reduces air resistance (since no screws protrude), enables finer and more stable rate adjustment, and contributes to greater long-term accuracy.
For me, there's something very romantic about Patek's designs. IMO, they are the perfect dress watch. And so, they sit naturally with dressier clothes, such as dark worsteds suits and evening clothes (even if it's just a gray tweed with charcoal flannel trousers).
So here we see three reasons to like a watch:
— Personal connection
— Relation to history
— Design and technical engineering
There are certainly people who buy watches purely as a financial flex. But in my years of wearing a watch, few have commented unless they're into watches
I personally don't like smart watches because I think of them as semi-disposable. You use them for five years and that's it. As more of our world gets consumed by disposable products and AI, I think it's amazing to see a handcrafted item last 100+ years.
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Earlier this year, it was reported that JD Vance has a tailor in Cincinnati, Ohio. It was a charming story about an Italian immigrant named Romualdo Pelle, who has worked as a tailor since he immigrated to the US in 1960.
Watch the story very closely. What do you notice?
Those familiar with tailoring will see something very peculiar:
In the 19th century, gentlemen wore black frock coats or tailcoats with a white shirt and dark waistcoat. As the frock coat gave way to the suit, the white linen shirt — a mark of respectability and propriety — remained.
For much of the 20th century, this was the standard uniform of the American male that sat at any social station above blue collar. And even then, blue collar people often wore these clothes to churches and weddings.
A couple of weeks ago, Trump struggled with a broken umbrella as he boarded Air Force One.
Let me tell you how we got to this point — and the tragic downfall of the noble umbrella. 🧵
It's hard to imagine now, but it was once controversial for a man to carry an umbrella. The modern umbrella's progenitor, of course, is the parasol, which 18th century French women carried to preserve their light-colored skin (at the time, a mark of class and status).
British men considered the accessory too French, too foreign, and most importantly, too effeminate. That was until 1756, when Jonas Hanway, an upper-class philanthropist, started to carry a waterproofed version around London to protect himself from the rain.
Fall is upon us and soon it will be time for waxed cotton jackets. Let me suggest ways to wear one.
But first, which outfit do you think is more stylish? Choose before opening this thread. 🧵
If you choose the right outfit, then we have the same taste. But why do we like it better? To understand, we must go back to the invention of this fabric itself.
In the 18th century, English sailors repurposed the linseed oil-soaked canvas they used for sails.
These "oilcloths," as they were known, repelled rain and blocked wind, so sailors made them into capes and smocks for sailing on the high sea. But the material was stiff, heavy, and prone to cracking, so the British maritime company Francis Webster & Sons refined the process.
Of these four pairs of shoes, which do you think is the lowest quality?
Make a choice before opening this thread. Then I'll tell you something about shoe quality. 🧵
When it comes to leather shoes, there are broadly two dimensions of quality.
The first and most important is the type of leather. Quality leather shoes will be made from full-grain leather, which shows the natural grain of the hide.
However, not every hide is suited for full grain leather. The animal may have picked up a lot of scars along the course of its life. In such case, the tannery will sand down the surface and apply a chemical coating to produce a consistent finish. This is called corrected grain.
Have you ever noticed that old clothes online sometimes look better than old clothes in your closet?
Why is that? 🧵
It's often said that clothes were better made in the past. This is true to some degree, although the discussion is often narrowly focused on durability.
In this thread, I'll focus on something else: how clothes age, which affects how long you enjoy wearing them.
I'll give you some examples.
A hundred years ago, denim was mostly woven on slow shuttle looms, which produced a narrow-width fabric that was finished with a self-edge (selvedge). This fabric was taken straight off the loom and given to factories.