What I learned from CFP® professional education (part 6)
PAYING FOR SCHOOL DEEP DIVE 🏫🚌✏️
Continuing this series on concepts from my professional studies for those looking to improve their finances.
Education unlocks a lifetime of earning power. It's probably the best investment we can make for ourselves and those we love.
But it's expensive. 🤑
This post describes major sources of education funding -- special accounts, grants, loans, tax credits, and the rules surrounding each.
Tons of useful info - you'll want to bookmark this one 🔖
Let's help you get every penny 🫰💰
👇🧵
I recently demonstrated a step-by-step process to calculate how much to save for college. You can use this method to quantify any future multi-year financial goal:
If you do these calculations you'll notice the total amount you need to save is likely a lot more than you thought when you consider inflation (education costs have risen faster than overall inflation). For this reason many people find they lack the resources to fully pay for college using just their savings.
💵 FINANCIAL AID
Financial aid includes different government sponsored loan and grant programs.
Loans are borrowed funds you repay
Grants do not need to be repaid
The amount of aid for which a student may be eligible is based on the Student Aid Index. SAI measures a family's income and assets to determine their overall ability to afford school. The idea is that aid should go to families who truly need it.
Higher SAI = less financial aid, and vice versa.
The SAI has four sections:
- parental income last year (22-47% included, depending on income level and other factors)
- parental assets EXCLUDING retirement accounts, primary residence, cars used for everyday transportation, and life insurance (max 5.64% included)
- student income above a certain threshold (50% included)
- student assets (20% included)
CALCULATION
parent section (22%-47% income + 5%-5.64% assets) + student section (50% income + 20% assets) = SAI
You don't need to calculate SAI, the government aid website has a tool to estimate how much aid you may qualify for:
For example, we know a lower SAI = more likelihood of receiving aid. The lowest weighted section in the SAI calculation is PARENT ASSETS.
So if the goal is to maximize college savings while still retaining the ability to qualify for aid, it makes sense to aim to title assets/accounts in the parent's name where possible. 🤓
The SAI is calculated based on information found in the Federal Application for Student Aid (FAFSA). The FAFSA helps Uncle Sam determine which students have a financial need.
There are additional requirements to receive federal student aid, including US citizenship or eligible non-citizen, high school grad (or GED/homeschool complete), enrollment in an eligible program, sufficient academic progress, registering for selective service, no drug convictions while receiving aid, cannot be in default on a federal student loan, etc.
Filling out a FAFSA is the first step in determining if you're eligible for government funds for education. Here is the link to fill it out online.
Let's look at different types of aid: loans and grants.
GRANTS 🎁
Federal grants are funded by the Department of Education and awarded based on financial need. High income earners won't qualify. The money doesn't have to be repaid - it's basically a gift. Some examples:
- Pell Grants: for undergraduate students enrolled at least half-time with a substantial financial need. The max amount you can receive for 2025-2026 school year is $7,395.
Those enrolled in an approved prison education program may be eligible as well.
- Federal Supplemental Educational Opportunity Grants: similar requirements as Pell grants including demonstrating a financial need, and undergraduate students only.
Teacher Education Assistance for College and Higher Education (TEACH) grants are available for students who agree to teach high need subjects for 4 years in low income areas after graduation. If you don't fulfill the service obligation TEACH grants convert to loans.
FEDERAL STUDENT LOANS
Loans come if four main types:
- Direct loans are dispersed to the student
- Campus based are dispersed to the school
- Subsidized loans = government pays interest while student is in school and for 6 months after graduation
- Unsubsidized = interest due 60 days after funds dispersed.
Needs-based loans will typically be subsidized.
Stafford Loans - Subsidized or unsubsidized loans available based on financial need to undergraduate students enrolled at least half-time.
Graduate students can apply for unsubsidized Stafford loans as well.
Stafford loan interest rates are based on financial markets and updated annually. The rate is set for the life of the loan. Current rates until July 2026 are 6.39% for undergraduate borrowers and 7.94% for graduate students (the rates are posted online studentaid.gov/understand-aid… ).
Student loan interest paid during the year is tax deductible up to $2500 (phaseouts apply).
LOAN FORGIVENESS 👼
Available for those working in certain professions, including public nonprofits, teaching in low income areas, or government / military.
DELINQUENCY AND DEFAULT
Student loans cannot be discharged through bankruptcy, so you want to be sure that you'll get the degree and have sufficient future earnings to pay them off.
Loans are considered delinquent if payment is not received by the due date, and are considered in default after 270 days.
Once in default the entire balance becomes due, and the student is not eligible for other loans or grants.
SCHOLARSHIPS
Available usually based on academic merit, sponsored by all types of non-profits and other organizations.
The Dept. of Labor has a website where you can search tons of available scholarships or talk to the financial aid office at your school:
OTHER FUNDING SOURCES
Other institutions sponsoring grants and scholarships include Universities themselves, state governments, non-profits and other private organizations. Here's a master page with links to the various state government websites:
The financial aid office at most colleges can also help, and studentaid.gov has tons of information and links.
🚨 FREE RESOURCE
If you're finding this information useful, I've got a one-page, easy-to-read flowchart that walks you through the strategies discussed here and more.
Comment "college" and I'll send it to you for free (must be following) 👇👇
Moving on ...
Government sponsored aid is great but most is reserved for those with limited financial resources. If you or your parents earn a high income or have over a certain amount of wealth, you may not qualify.
The bottom line, like many things in life, you can't rely on the government to bail you out. Government programs change year-to-year. The most reliable plan is to save and invest during the years before your child starts college, thus putting the magic of compound interest on your side.
Let's finish by looking at strategies including special accounts and tax credits designed to help families save for school.
QUALIFIED TUITION PLAN A.K.A. 529 PLAN
Tax advantaged account that works much like the individual retirement account (IRA) for retirees, but instead of retirement is meant to help save for educational expenses.
2 types of 529s:
- Prepaid tuition plan: investor purchases future tuition today at a discounted rate. Only a handful of states offer prepaid tuition plans.
- College savings plans: funds can be invested into various mutual funds similar to a 401k or brokerage account (more common). Savings plans also cover more expenses besides just tuition and mandatory fees covered by prepaid tuition plans, making them more useful.
529 savings plans are investment accounts owned by a US citizen 18 or older (typically a parent, but doesn't have to be), with the child designated as a beneficiary. If you are 18 years old you can open a 529 plan for anyone, you don't need to be their parent (or even related).
You can change beneficiaries if, for example, one child opts not to go to college. But need to be careful not to trigger a taxable event.
CONTRIBUTIONS
- unlike Roth IRAs for example, there are no income limits on contributing to 529 savings plans. High income is no problem.
- typically deductible from state income tax for in-state residents using their state's 529 plan (not deductible from Federal taxes)
- present interest, qualifies for the annual gift tax exclusion (give up to $19,000 to anyone tax free in 2025).
- you can also use gift splitting between spouses to use both exclusions for the same gift (must file a joint tax return)
- 5-year front loading is another gifting strategy where you can treat a single gift as if it were made over five years, using 5x exclusions at once.
- contributions can be invested in a selection of mutual funds depending on which state plan you use.
- money grows free of income and capital gains tax
DISTRIBUTIONS
Withdrawals are tax-free as long as they’re used for “qualified higher education expenses". QHEEs are defined by the IRS and include a wide range of education related expenses like:
- tuition and enrollment fees
- books, supplies, and required equipment
- computer, internet access, necessary software (not games) and peripheral equipment (mouse etc.)
- room and board, including on or off-campus housing, and meals as long as the student is enrolled at least half-time
- if the beneficiary has special-needs, you can pay expenses necessary for them to attend school
If funds are used for expenses other than QHEEs, it's counted as taxable income of the beneficiary (remember the SAI ....) and subject to a 10% penalty.
Years K-12 you can withdraw up to $10,000 tax free for QHEEs. Amounts over $10k would be a combination of contributions and investment growth, and the growth portion would be subject to tax.
Once you hit college age, unlimited withdrawals from 529 savings plans can be made for QHEEs.
ELIGIBLE INSTITUTIONS
529 plan dollars can be used at most accredited colleges in the US and some foreign schools. You can search for accredited schools on this website maintained by the Dept. of Education:
INVESTMENT OPTIONS
529 savings plans generally offer a menu of mutual funds to choose from, similar to 401k plans. Let's look at the State of Texas plan as an example:
There are US and international stock funds, bond funds, and a "stable value" fund, which is basically a money market fund.
There are also age-based portfolios which invest in a mix of funds based on the age of the beneficiary. Younger kids have longer for the account to grow, so will be invested more aggressively (higher % in stocks) etc.
Easy choice if you don't know a lot about investments.
CESA
Coverdell Education Savings Accounts are another tax advantaged savings vehicle, but not as flexible as 529s.
- max contribution of $2,000 per year for any beneficiary, regardless the number of donors.
🚨income phaseouts at $95-$110k (Single); $190-$220k MFJ
- earnings grow tax free like a 529 savings plan, and can be withdrawn tax free for QHEEs related to K-12 and college.
- must use funds by age 30 (unless special needs) or funds distributed to beneficiary and subject to taxes and 10% penalty.
- one CESA rollover per year allowed, where you change beneficiary to another family member in order to avoid penalty.
CUSTODIAL ACCOUNTS - UTMA/UGMA
Less popular these days. Adult manages the account on behalf of child until they reach adulthood, and can invest in securities similar to a brokerage account.
Major disadvantage: at age of majority child owns the account and can access funds. No guarantee funds will be used for education.
- considered child's assets when determining financial aid eligibility (see SAI section above)
- irrevocable gift; cannot retitle account to another child if funds aren't needed
- kiddie tax applies to unearned income (won't get into this here)
SERIES EE AND I SAVINGS BONDS
- interest not taxed on redemption if taxpayer, their spouse or dependents incurs tuition, fees or other eligible expenses.
- bond purchasers must be over 24 yrs old when they bought the bonds in order to qualify, and income phaseouts apply starting at $96,800- $111,800 (Single); $145,200-175,200 MFJ in 2025
TAX CREDITS
American Opportunity Tax Credit
- Available during the first 4 years of undergrad
- 100% of first $2000 of expenses and 25% of next $2000 = $2500 max TOTAL PER STUDENT can be claimed, based on qualified expenses like tuition, fees and materials (room and board excluded)
- must be enrolled at least half time in pursuit of a degree
- qualifying child must be a dependent of the taxpayer
- subject to income phaseouts starting at $80,000 (single) and $170,000 MFJ
- no felony drug convictions
Lifetime Learning Credit
- 20% of the first $10,000 in eligible education expenses = $2000 max PER FAMILY can be claimed
- available ANY YEAR of education when the American Opportunity Tax Credit was not also claimed for the same student (can't double dip)
- no degree pursuit requirement, half-time enrollment status, or felony drug rule
- same income phaseouts as AOTC
EMPLOYER EDUCATION ASSISTANCE
- if not job-related, can provide up to $5250 in tax-free assistance per year for undergrad or graduate study. Limited to the lesser of qualifying education expenses (tuition, fees, books, supplies) or $5250.
- if job-related, no $ limit to amount of assistance that can be provided (part of ordinary business expenses)
- no phaseout
RETIREMENT ACCOUNTS
- IRA owners typically must be 59.5 years old to withdraw funds penalty free. But there is no 10% early withdrawal penalty for funds used for QHEEs (529 categories). Would still have to pay income tax on withdrawal however.
- 72t rule for "substantially equal periodic payments" allows account owner to withdraw equal amounts annually for at least five years or until age 59.5 (whichever is later) and avoid the early withdrawal penalty.
🚨BEWARE of underfunding your retirement in order to pay for children's education. Careful analysis should be used.
FUNDING BY RELATIVES
- annual gift exclusions $19k in 2025
- qualified transfer direct to institution (example: grandpa pays the school directly for tuition) avoids gift tax
- 529 plans owned by relatives not part of SAI assets, but considered student income, included at 50% for SAI
That's all for now!
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Thanks for reading!
🙏💵🙌
PS - Want to save money, crush debt, and start investing? I distilled years of financial writing into 8 simple steps to get on the path to wealth.
What I learned from CFP® professional education (part five )
HOME, AUTO and HEALTH INSURANCE
Continuing this series on concepts from my professional studies for those looking to improve their finances.
Let's be honest; insurance isn't exciting. Left to our own devices, many of us probably wouldn't buy it.
But certain types of insurance help society run more smoothly, so the government or institutions require us to carry it.
This post will discuss the types of insurance we deal with in our day-to-day lives. We'll outline the key sections of homeowner's, auto, and health insurance policies, and how to tell if you're properly covered.
NOTE: this is for educational purposes only and is not advice.
Let's dive in 👇🧵
HOMEOWNER'S INSURANCE 🏠
When you want to buy a home, the bank is willing to loan money for the purchase, charging the borrower interest and making a nice profit over 15 or 30 years as the house is paid off. If the borrower can't pay the mortgage, the bank obtains possession of the home through foreclosure, and then can sell it to someone else.
But if the house burns down the borrower could walk away and leave the lender high and dry, with no asset to repossess. This isn't a risk lenders are willing to take, so they require home buyers to purchase insurance to cover this potential loss.
Homeowner's insurance is a package policy consisting of multiple types of insurance coverage including the home itself ("dwelling"), personal property, and general liability.
3 TYPES OF COVERAGE
BASIC (rarely used)– covers damage from fire, lightning, wind, hail, riot, aircraft, vehicles, smoke, vandalism, explosion, theft, volcanic eruption
BROAD – all of Basic plus: falling objects, weight of ice/snow/sleet, water/steam discharge, AC/fire sprinkler, appliances, frozen plumbing, electrical current.
OPEN PERIL – Covers damage from ALL perils except: Earthquake, flood, neglect, war, nuclear disaster, power failure, intentional loss
Gradual degradation over time, generally not covered. Sudden, unexpected loss --> generally covered.
HO POLICY SECTIONS
Section 1 – Property loss. Excludes ordinance, earth movement, flood, inherent vice, rust, mold.
A – Dwelling + attached structures (excludes land). Determines amounts for B, C, and D.
B – Other structures (detached garage, shed). EXCLUDES land and rentals. Typically 10% of section A coverage, i.e. a $150k home coverage in section A = $15k section B coverage.
C – Personal property. Worldwide coverage, typically 50% of 'A'. Excludes animals, motor vehicles, and tenants. The $ limits here are worth noting if you have high value possessions like jewelry, etc. May need to seek additional coverage.
D – Loss of use while uninhabitable. Covers living expenses when unable to use dwelling (hotel cost, etc.). Typically 20-30% of 'A' coverage.
Section 2 – Liability loss on / off premises
E – Personal liability, bodily injury, damage to other peoples' property if liable.
F – Medical payments to others, claim expenses (no need to prove liability).
HO POLICY TYPES
HO-2: Broad Form (named perils)
HO-3: Special Form (open peril)
HO-4: Contents (renters - broad form)
HO-5: Comprehensive Form (open peril)
HO-6: Unit Owner (condos)
HO-8: Modified Form for Special Risk (historic homes, etc)
HO-15: Endorsement extends HO-3 policy to replacement cost for personal property (open peril)
What I learned from CFP® professional education (part four)
LIFE INSURANCE FUNDAMENTALS
Continuing this series on concepts from my professional studies for those looking to improve their finances.
Newsflash: it isn't fun to think about death. Especially if you're an optimist, like me and believe most things are going to work out. Why would I ever buy life insurance?
As the saying goes, "hope for the best, plan for the worst". Every day people are joining and leaving the human race. Some quick Googling suggests that, worldwide roughly 368,000 babies are born and 172,000 people die each day.
Whenever that event happens to us, it will surely be disruptive for the people we love, and who depend on us. At it's most basic level, life insurance offers piece of mind that our loved ones can process their grief without also having to worry about unpaid debts or financial issues.
Beyond that, certain types of life insurance can be used to transfer wealth tax-efficiently and achieve other planning goals.
This post will discuss different types of life insurance, how they operate, and how to estimate how much you may need.
Note: this is for educational purposes only and is not advice.
Let's dive in 👇🧵
TYPES
Term
- Guaranteed death benefit (DB) for a set period of time (e.g. 20 year term)
- Pure life insurance, does not accumulate cash value
- Premiums: annual renewal or "paid up" level term
- Employer sponsored: if employer deducts cost, benefits > $50,000 are taxable to employee
Pros: Affordable. Typically the highest death benefit for lowest premium. For those on a budget, term may be all they can afford. Good for short or intermediate term needs.
Cons: Because term insurance expires, if may not be there when you need it.
Whole Life
- Permanent insurance, intended to cover the life of the insured.
- Guaranteed, level premium and DB
- Premiums are invested in the insurer's general account, accumulating cash value (CV) which can be accessed via loan or policy surrender.
- "Participating" policies pay dividends from excess premiums beyond what's needed to pay claims. Dividends are tax-free return of principal, and reduce the policyholder's cost basis (see SURRENDER below).
Pros: Good for: Low risk tolerance and people who need guarantees. Insurance company general accounts are restricted to owning nothing more risky than investment grade fixed income. Insurer bears investment risk.
Cons: Expensive. Because it is meant to last the insured's entire life, and therefore more likely to actually be used, insurance companies price whole life much higher than term insurance.
Modified Whole Life
- Hybrid b/w Term and Whole Life
- Want permanent insurance but can't currently afford higher premiums
- Premiums begin at term insurance levels, and migrate to whole life levels over time
- Good for those anticipating higher future income.
Variable Life
- Permanent insurance, accumulates cash value (CV)
- Guaranteed death benefit (DB), fixed premium
- Unlike term and whole life, variable life insurance is an investment. CV invested in subaccounts that owner can assign to various investment strategies, including equities.
Pros: The ability to invest more aggressively than the insurer's general account offers the potential to accumulate higher CV than whole life over time. Good for those with higher risk tolerance.
Cons: The owner bears investment risk if the chosen subaccounts underperform. The cash value is not guaranteed, making it more risky than whole life.
Universal Life
- Death benefit and cash value "unbundled" and managed separately
- Adjustable DB. 2 options, A (level DB - becomes less costly as CV accumulates); B (increasing DB - more costly over time)
- Unlike whole life, universal life reprices premiums vs. cost on a regular basis. Premiums are only required if the CV dips below estimated mortality and administrative costs.
- If CV < cost, must deposit additional premiums or policy will lapse.
Pros:
- Flexibility of premium and DB mean UL may be able to satisfy changing insurance needs over time.
- Transparency. Can see what is driving cost of insurance.
-Insurer bears investment risk
Cons: DB and CV not guaranteed. Complexity.
Variable Universal Life
- Hybrid of Variable (uses subaccounts) & Universal life (unbundled structure)
- Adjustable DB, options A & B
Pros: Performance and flexibility
Cons: Owner bears investment risk
Joint Life
- First to Die: Used in business buy/sell agreements (provide funds for remaining partners to "buy out" deceased partner), or to pay off debt (surviving spouse can pay off mortgage, etc.)
- Second to Die: Estate liquidity (pay estate taxes, settle final debts, etc.)
What I learned from CFP® professional education (part three)
RISK MANAGEMENT CONCEPTS
Continuing this series on concepts from my professional studies for those looking to improve their finances. This time we'll cover risk management fundamentals, including common terms, concepts, and outline the risk management process.
Life is full of risks ranging from catastrophic to insignificant. Any of us could twist an ankle stepping out of bed, be rear-ended in traffic, or get struck by a rare disease.
It's neither possible or desirable to eliminate all risks. A riskless life would not be worth living. Rock climbing, ballroom dancing, sports betting -- we all have things we enjoy that involve some level of risk.
Investors who want to pursue growth must likewise bear some amount of risk. Savings accounts, money market funds, and government securities that contain minimal market risk are available. But long term historical data shows that those vehicles fail to maintain the purchasing power of wealth - inflation overwhelms them over time. Diversified equity portfolios, in contrast, have offered long-term returns well over and above inflation, and more volatility with those returns.
We have a choice: Try to preserve purchasing power and take market risk, or try to avoid market volatility and risk losing to inflation. The more of one we choose, the less of the other we have.
Bearing risk is costly, and so is mitigating it. It's a tradeoff.
The goal of risk management is to evaluate where we're over (or under) exposed to various types of risks, and intentionally determine which ones to take (or avoid), acknowledging the inherent tradeoffs involved.
From a financial planning perspective, a big part of this process is to reduce the impact of catastrophic risks on our financial lives and those of our loved ones.
Let's dive in 👇🧵
TERMINOLOGY
Risk: Possibility of loss / negative outcome
Peril: Cause of the loss (fire, wind, etc)
Hazard: Increases likelihood of loss (driving on bald tires)
TYPES OF RISK
Static Risks: Regularly occurring events unrelated to financial markets (death, earthquakes) --> insurable
Dynamic Risks: Economic and business risks whose timing is uncertain (recession) --> not insurable).
Pure Risk = 2 outcomes: Loss or nothing (e.g. risk you become disabled)
Speculative Risk = 2 outcomes: Loss or gain (e.g. gambling)
RISK MANAGEMENT PROCESS
Establish Goals
- Identify high value property.
- How much loss can be tolerated?
- What risks are prominent? Active lifestyle --> Liability | Inactive --> Health
- How much "lifestyle" do you want to protect (understanding there is a cost for doing so)?
- Compare potential financial loss & consequences vs. probability ---> determine appropriate action
- What % of income should be used for risk mitigation (~ 10% is reasonable for young families. Varies depending on preferences and stage of life)
Gather Data
- Medical history (illness / injury)
- Inventory possessions and animals
- List hobbies, professional duties, volunteer activities
- Examine current policies (homeowner's, auto, life, etc)
- Examine personal balance sheet, assets vs. liabilities, tax return, pay stubs. What level of protection needed to meet liabilities??
Identify Risk Exposures - Which can you afford to retain/not?
- Asset related (lost use i.e. car, home)
- Contract law - liability to parties involved
- Tort law - liability resulting from activities
From here you can develop a personalized risk management plan, and look to execute it.
What I learned from CFP® professional education (part two)
SAVING FOR COLLEGE
Continuing this series on concepts gleaned from my professional studies for those looking to improve their finances.
This time we'll cover how to calculate the total funds needed TODAY to fund future multi-year goals.
We'll use education funding to illustrate the concept, but the principles are the same for estimating retirement savings needs and other multi-year goals.
Let's dive in 👇🧵
First thing to consider with future goals is the impact of inflation. We know that prices in the economy increase over time. If we're budgeting for expenses a couple months away it's probably not noticeable. But if your kid is 2 and you're planning for college 16 years from now, it must be factored in.
Using college tuition for example, we know the cost today, but we don't know what the cost will be in 16 years. We can estimate it, however, by taking today's cost and accelerating it by the rate of inflation over time.
This ties into a concept called "time value of money", which I've written about before:
EXAMPLE: Assume the annual tuition at the school you've identified is currently $30,000 per year, and inflation is 3% per year.
- Tuition next year = $30,000 x (1 + inflation) = $30,000 x (1.03) = $30,900
- Tuition in 2 years = $30,000 x (1 + inflation)(1+inflation) = $30,000 x (1.03)(1.03) = $31,827
- Tuition in 3 years = $30,000 x (1 + inflation)(1+inflation)(1+inflation) = $30,000 x (1.03)(1.03)(1.03) = $32,782
For each year into the future we project the price, we need to apply one plus the inflation rate. We can use exponents for shorthand, and continue to add years of inflation acceleration up to our goal horizon of 16 years.
A financial calculator makes this easy. If you don't own one, you can find free ones online like this: calculator.net/finance-calcul…
For any time value of money (TVM) calculation there are five variables we need to know:
N = number of periods (in this case the number of years)
I/Y = interest rate (inflation rate in this case)
PV = present value (cost of college today)
PMT = periodic payments (if saving a set amount per year you could put a number here, but we'll assume zero for now).
FV = future value after N number of periods (what we're looking to calculate).
Entering in the variables as shown, we see that $30k inflated at 3% grows to $48,141 after 16 years. This is our estimated annual tuition at our $30k per year school in 16 years. That's step one - INFLATE.
What I learned from the CFP® certification professional education program (part one)
CHECK YOUR GAUGES
I haven't posted online for months in order to focus on completing CFP® certification education requirements and studying for the CFP® exam. Happy to report I completed the coursework in April and passed the exam in July (whew!) and am waiting for official approval from CFP® Board to use the designation.
I learned a lot from the education coursework and wanted to share for those looking to improve their finances.
Let's dive in 👇🧵
I've written about using a #budget to take your financial pulse:
Keep it simple, track major income and spending categories, aim for a monthly cadence.
As you develop your budget, there are some helpful rules of thumb to identify potential problematic areas of your overall financial picture.
For example, are you ...
spending too much on housing?
carrying too much debt around?
prepared for a financial emergency?
Some simple rules can help you confidently answer these questions.
HOUSING COST RATIO
Add up your monthly housing costs - mortgage payment (principal + interest), taxes, homeowner's insurance, HOA, etc. and divide by your total monthly gross income.
IDEAL: 28% or less.
EXAMPLE: someone with total monthly housing costs of $3,000 and gross monthly income of $10,000 has a ratio of 3,000/10,000 = 0.3 or 30%. Little on the high side.
Thinking about moving? Want to know how much you can comfortably spend on housing? Multiply your monthly income by 0.28. Monthly income of $9,000 suggests total housing costs of $9,000*0.28 = $2,520. Look for something within that budget.
TOTAL DEBT RATIO
- Add up all monthly payments you make on various types of debt and obligatory payments - credit cards, loans (auto, student, etc), alimony, child support, etc. Include your monthly housing costs (mortgage, PITI, HOA).
- Divide that number by your total monthly gross income.
- Ideal result: 36% or less. If higher, you may have too much debt and obligations.
EXAMPLE: someone with $2900 monthly housing costs, $300 credit card bills, and a $400 car payment with gross monthly income of $10,000.
$2900 + $300 + $400 = $3600.
$3600/$10,000 = 36%. This person should avoid taking on more debt and possibly look to reduce it.
FLIP IT: Again, you can use the ratio in reverse to estimate a comfortable level of total debt and obligatory payments by multiplying monthly income by 0.36. Monthly income of $13,000 = $4,680 or less (ideally) total payments.
If you just want to look at consumer debt (credit cards, auto loans, etc.), the ideal ratio is 20% or less of monthly NET (after tax) income. $8,000 monthly net income and $700 consumer debt payments implies a consumer debt ratio of 8.75%.
The rationale of using net vs. gross income in the calculations involves the preferential tax treatment of mortgage debt vs. consumer debt. Although the recent tax law changes include limited deductibility of interest on new car loans (subject to a bunch of rules and limits).
You see a higher, better version of yourself and picturing that person is exciting. You see a problem that needs solving and know you can do it. You're driven to make it happen.
2 - Uncertainty.
Success is not a sure thing. You're operating in an unfamiliar environment and the next move is not obvious. Like climbing a mountain, you must steady yourself where you are before reaching for the next rock.
3 - Overload.
Working on projects you can't solve with the knowledge in your head today. You'll have to research or partner with experts. Daunting tasks that require more than your maximum effort.