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https://twitter.com/churchofysl/status/1770569935078728140001 / I’m not joking when I say THE GAP. The quality isn’t as good as it was in the ‘90s, so I recommend thrifting an old tag — but their fabric quality and cuts are probably the best you can find on a smaller budget. Makes me curious to see what Zac Posen does with the brand.


The obvious problem is with fit. The looseness of a pre-2000 trench was much more subtle. These aren’t baggy coats by any means, but they also have a good amount of breathing room at the upper arm, the shoulder, and the waist, even when belted. 


Will say I’m focusing on unsung titles across eras&spheres instead of academic basics. If you’re looking for a foundational overview, start with Seeling’s FASHION: 150 YEARS OF COUTURIERS, DESIGNERS, LABELS, or Racinet’s COMPLETE COSTUME HISTORY.
Fashion education is still very much inside baseball, so if there’s any way I can flatten that knowledge gap for you, LMK. You can absolutely learn all this stuff for free — it’s out there if you look for it (or if you DM me, hint hint) 👀