Richard Barrow Profile picture
🇹🇭 Writer of online Thai travel guides and travel news for nearly 30 years. I tweet tips on where to go and what to do. I’m also on @ThaiTrainGuide.

Dec 25, 2022, 20 tweets

🚂 🏕️ This weekend I took the sleeper train to Khun Tan Railway Station in Lamphun in Northern Thailand. From there I hiked up to the top of the nearby mountain and slept in a tent for two nights. This is a THREAD 🧵 of that trip. [1/21]

#RailTourism #Thailand

[2] For my trip I took Special Express No.51 which left Bangkok at 10:00pm. This is my favourite Chiang Mai sleeper as the sun rises just as you arrive in the most scenic stretch of the trip. (You can also start your trip from Chiang Mai as it’s only one hour away.)

[3] No. 9 sleeper arrives at Khun Tan at 6:01am when it’s still dark. No. 13 arrives at 7:32am which is a better time. My train, No. 51, arrived at 11:00am which means I missed half a day but really it was enough time for me to hike to my choice of campsite before sunset.

[4] The approach to Khun Tan Station is up a hill. Near the top the train crosses three viaducts with stunning views. Then it goes into the longest tunnel in #Thailand which is 1,362 metres. The other side is Khun Tan which is the highest station in Thailand at 578 metres.

[5] Once you get off at the station, you will see the pathway to Doi Khun Tan National Park. It is 1,300 metres away. It’s a fairly steep climb but it only takes about 30 minutes. Don’t miss the tree in the middle of the road!

[6] The entry fee for foreigners is 100 Baht. As I was sleeping in my own tent I had to pay 30 Baht per night. At the visitor centre I was briefed on my options. He suggested I hike up to Yaw 2 and sleep the night there. Then get up at 4am to hike to the top for sunrise at Yaw 4.

[7] If you don’t have your own tent you can rent one for 160 Baht. But you must carry to the top. Sleeping bag and mattress are extra. There are also options for bungalows from only 500 baht and big tents from 225 Baht but these are only available on lower levels.

[8] From the visitor centre I followed a very winding road up to the start of the trail. Luckily there were short cuts for hikers. After 35 minutes I reached the last restaurant before the start of the trail. I ate lunch here and also ordered a packed meal for my dinner.

[9] From the restaurant it was another ten minutes to reach the start of the trail. You can actually drive to this point, but I had to walk from the station. But no more roads above here. Before you start you must sign in with contact details. He also gives you a garbage sack.

[10] Yaw 1 was only a short walk away. This belongs to the State Railway of Thailand. You cannot camp here but they do have bungalows. But you must book in advance. The German engineer who supervised the building of Khun Tan tunnel and other dignitaries sometimes stayed here.

[11] It took me another 50 minutes to climb up to Yaw 2. The campsite was up a very steep hill which took me another ten minutes to climb to the top. This is where I slept the first night. This campsite belongs to the national park.

[12] Yaw 2 has very basic facilities. Three squat toilets and very cold water that you scoop over yourself for a bath. No electricity. No lights. A weak phone signal. Also no guarantee of food or drinking water. So you should bring your own.

[13] The ranger told me I should get up at 4am in the morning to climb in the pitch dark up to Yaw 4 which is the highest point in the park at 1,373 metres. The upward path was 4km long but as I didn’t have my heavy backpack I reached the top in only one hour and twenty minutes.

[14] I was the first to arrive there but by the time the sun started to rise there were eight of us. At weekends there would be many more people. The scenery was fantastic as was the sea of mist and the sunrise. Well worth getting up early for. I would do it again.

[15] On the way down I briefly stopped at Yaw 3. If you sleep here you don’t have to get up so early as it’s only 30 minutes away from the summit. The accommodation was built by Christian Missionaries and now looked after by Payap University. You must book with them in advance.

[16] Back at Yaw 2 I found that a small restaurant had opened. They said they only operate on weekends which is why I hadn’t seen them the day before. So I ate mama noodles for breakfast and bought another bottle of water. Probably best not to rely on them being open.

[17] Back at the campsite I took a very cold shower and then went back to sleep in my tent. I woke up at 11am to the sound of pegs being hammered into the ground. I looked out of my tent and saw I was now surrounded by ten new tents and more hikers were arriving. The weekend!

[18] I decided to spend my second night down at base camp in the field next to the visitor centre. This had the advantage of having better facilities including a restaurant and electricity. It was also quieter as not so crowded.

[19] The next morning I got up and had breakfast in the restaurant by the campsite. I then packed up my tent and headed back to the railway station. I think most people only stay one night. But I stayed two nights as I wanted to visit Chiang Mai while I waited for my sleeper.

[20] These are the choices of trains back to Bangkok from Khun Tan. The first sleeper train to arrive is No. 51 at 4:45pm. Next is No. 14 at 6:18pm. The last sleeper is No. 10 at 7:16pm. All of these trains arrive in Bangkok before sunrise.

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