Thread by @dieworkwear

A lot of ppl ask me about tailoring for queer bodies, which is not something I know much about. But an NYC tailor just told me about K Zao, a Providence, RI shop that bills itself a "queer tailoring." The work looks quite good to me.

IG: k__zao
Site: https://t.co/5OL0C0P0oFk-zao.studio

quite an impressive level of handwork evidenced in the photos. the pick stitching along the lapel is very light and gentle, which can only be done by hand, not machine. flip the lapel over, and you see dimples, which is evidence of hand pad stitching.

the in-breast pocket here is done with a technique called "sculpt facing," which gives the pocket a stronger baste to sit in. if the pocket ever rips, you can repair it without replacing the lining. this takes more work to make than the more common pocket style seen on right

this is also an unusually well done, handsewn buttonhole. most buttonholes are machine made (right). hole is sewn and *then* cut. the handmade buttonhole on left is done by cutting the hole first and *then* finely sewing the edge with a gimp & silk thread.

the process can be seen here. very unusual to see this type of work nowadays bc it's labor intensive and most customers don't care (and few are able to recognize the handwork). but when you see it, it shows the tailor did something for the sake of craft

https://t.co/HoMYX3Ht1ttuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/2012/04/asola-…

a testimonial from a customer

@tgiovanetti cutting for a cis female body is different, but such work typically goes hand in hand with making a feminine suit. second, ive heard from many trans men that they have specific fit challenges. they may be shorter or have wider hips.

@tgiovanetti such proportions require specific solutions, esp if they want to express a masculine silhouette. lastly, ive also heard many ppl say they want a tailor that understands their needs and sensitivities. so the term queer here may be a way to explicitly signal that ppl will be heard

@tgiovanetti this is not an area i know much about. i am only relying the stories ive heard from my readers regarding finding masc suits when you're a cis woman or tailoring for trans men. i hope to interview bespoke tailors who specifically provide these services to learn more.