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derek guy

@dieworkwear

Jul 7, 2023 • 9 tweets • 5 min read • Read on X

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A lot of ppl ask me about tailoring for queer bodies, which is not something I know much about. But an NYC tailor just told me about K Zao, a Providence, RI shop that bills itself a "queer tailoring." The work looks quite good to me.

IG: k__zao
Site: https://t.co/5OL0C0P0oFk-zao.studio

quite an impressive level of handwork evidenced in the photos. the pick stitching along the lapel is very light and gentle, which can only be done by hand, not machine. flip the lapel over, and you see dimples, which is evidence of hand pad stitching.

the in-breast pocket here is done with a technique called "sculpt facing," which gives the pocket a stronger baste to sit in. if the pocket ever rips, you can repair it without replacing the lining. this takes more work to make than the more common pocket style seen on right

this is also an unusually well done, handsewn buttonhole. most buttonholes are machine made (right). hole is sewn and *then* cut. the handmade buttonhole on left is done by cutting the hole first and *then* finely sewing the edge with a gimp & silk thread.

the process can be seen here. very unusual to see this type of work nowadays bc it's labor intensive and most customers don't care (and few are able to recognize the handwork). but when you see it, it shows the tailor did something for the sake of craft

https://t.co/HoMYX3Ht1ttuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/2012/04/asola-…

https://twitter.com/masctrologer/status/1677146577364762625

a testimonial from a customer

https://twitter.com/masctrologer/status/1677146577364762625

@tgiovanetti cutting for a cis female body is different, but such work typically goes hand in hand with making a feminine suit. second, ive heard from many trans men that they have specific fit challenges. they may be shorter or have wider hips.

@tgiovanetti such proportions require specific solutions, esp if they want to express a masculine silhouette. lastly, ive also heard many ppl say they want a tailor that understands their needs and sensitivities. so the term queer here may be a way to explicitly signal that ppl will be heard

@tgiovanetti this is not an area i know much about. i am only relying the stories ive heard from my readers regarding finding masc suits when you're a cis woman or tailoring for trans men. i hope to interview bespoke tailors who specifically provide these services to learn more.

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More from @dieworkwear

derek guy

@dieworkwear

Sep 6

https://twitter.com/LuxImperii/status/1964215549111779672

It's funny to see people imbue traditional men's tailoring with their own prejudices. They assume every man who wore a suit in the far past must be a staunch conservative like them. The truth is much more complicated. 🧵

https://twitter.com/LuxImperii/status/1964215549111779672

This bias, of course, stems out of the 1960s and 70s, from which many of our contemporary politics also spring. I don't need to belabor this point because you already know it. The framing is neatly summed up in this Mad Men scene — the rag tag hippie vs man in a suit.

Thus, people assume that men in suits must always be part of the conservative establishment. But this was not always so. The suit was once a working man's garment. When Keir Hardie, founder of the Labour Party, arrived for his first day in Parliament, he wore a suit.

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derek guy

@dieworkwear

Sep 6

Which of these two jackets do you prefer?

There's no "right" or "wrong" answer here, so feel free to go with your gut. I will then give you my views below. 🧵

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Some suit jackets have very closed quarters, such as you see on the left. In this way, the jacket forms a Y-shaped silhouette.

Other suits have open quarters, such that the front edge sweeps back on the hips, as you see on the right. This forms an X-shaped silhouette.

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derek guy

@dieworkwear

Aug 30

https://twitter.com/LinkofSunshine/status/1961619137404576034

Here are ways to dress up in the summer if you wear menswear. 🧵

https://twitter.com/LinkofSunshine/status/1961619137404576034

We will start with the most formal and work our way down, so that you can adjust things in ways that make sense for you.

The first and most obvious choice is to wear a soft-shouldered suit rendered in a material such as linen or seersucker. Seersucker can even be tonal (pic 4)

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derek guy

@dieworkwear

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https://twitter.com/MJKauz/status/1960184128071958586

I will tell you why I think the split-toe derby is the greatest dress shoe of all time. 🧵

https://twitter.com/MJKauz/status/1960184128071958586

Let's first start with some terms. The term oxford refers to a footwear style where the facings have been sewn into the vamp. By contrast, the term derby refers to a style where the facings sit on top of the vamp.

On the left, we see an oxford. On the right, we see a derby.

https://x.com/dieworkwear/status/1950404520594592035

I believe that men wore tailored clothing best from the 1930s through '80s. If you share this premise, there are certain ideas about how an outfit should be put together, such as how oxfords look best with suits, while derbies go with suits or sport coats

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derek guy

@dieworkwear

Aug 18

https://twitter.com/imkaiarhodes/status/1957238885441819036

I interviewed a clothing factory once who said he's excited to implement robotics AI. He said this will make US manufacturing more competitive against China. I asked, "And what happens when Chinese factories also implement robotics AI?" He said, "Oh, I hadn't thought of that."

https://twitter.com/imkaiarhodes/status/1957238885441819036

Chinese factories also have these machines. All you've done is deskill the worker, making it harder for their wages to grow. Your land and labor costs are still higher than China, India, or any other place where they can pay someone to do this simple manual operation.

If you want to reshore US manufacturing in apparel, you have to move up the value chain. Look at other successful countries: France, Italy, and Japan. They don't make crappy t-shirts. They make high-end leather goods, suits, and denim. Requires skills that can't be automated

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derek guy

@dieworkwear

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This is a beautiful garment.

Let me show you what makes it special. 🧵

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Bespoke means the garment was made from scratch specifically for one client. Unlike made-to-measure, which involves a block pattern, this pattern was drafted from scratch using a client's measurements. The garment was then made through a series of three fittings.