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derek guy

@dieworkwear

Jul 7, 2023 • 9 tweets • 5 min read • Read on X

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A lot of ppl ask me about tailoring for queer bodies, which is not something I know much about. But an NYC tailor just told me about K Zao, a Providence, RI shop that bills itself a "queer tailoring." The work looks quite good to me.

IG: k__zao
Site: https://t.co/5OL0C0P0oFk-zao.studio

quite an impressive level of handwork evidenced in the photos. the pick stitching along the lapel is very light and gentle, which can only be done by hand, not machine. flip the lapel over, and you see dimples, which is evidence of hand pad stitching.

the in-breast pocket here is done with a technique called "sculpt facing," which gives the pocket a stronger baste to sit in. if the pocket ever rips, you can repair it without replacing the lining. this takes more work to make than the more common pocket style seen on right

this is also an unusually well done, handsewn buttonhole. most buttonholes are machine made (right). hole is sewn and *then* cut. the handmade buttonhole on left is done by cutting the hole first and *then* finely sewing the edge with a gimp & silk thread.

the process can be seen here. very unusual to see this type of work nowadays bc it's labor intensive and most customers don't care (and few are able to recognize the handwork). but when you see it, it shows the tailor did something for the sake of craft

https://t.co/HoMYX3Ht1ttuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/2012/04/asola-…

https://twitter.com/masctrologer/status/1677146577364762625

a testimonial from a customer

https://twitter.com/masctrologer/status/1677146577364762625

@tgiovanetti cutting for a cis female body is different, but such work typically goes hand in hand with making a feminine suit. second, ive heard from many trans men that they have specific fit challenges. they may be shorter or have wider hips.

@tgiovanetti such proportions require specific solutions, esp if they want to express a masculine silhouette. lastly, ive also heard many ppl say they want a tailor that understands their needs and sensitivities. so the term queer here may be a way to explicitly signal that ppl will be heard

@tgiovanetti this is not an area i know much about. i am only relying the stories ive heard from my readers regarding finding masc suits when you're a cis woman or tailoring for trans men. i hope to interview bespoke tailors who specifically provide these services to learn more.

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More from @dieworkwear

derek guy

@dieworkwear

Feb 16

There's a pervasive belief that we no longer produce clothes in the United States. This is not true. In this thread, I will tell you about some great made-in-USA brands — some that run their own factories, while others are US brands contracting with US factories. 🧵

I should first note this thread focuses on well-made, stylish clothes produced in ethical conditions. For me, producing in the US is not enough. It means nothing if the clothes are ugly, crappy, or produced in sweatshop conditions. My article for The Nation below.

JEANS

Gustin produces MiUSA jeans using raw Japanese denim. "Raw" means the fabric hasn't been pre-distressed, allowing it to naturally fade with use, reflecting your actual body and lifestyle. I like their fuller 1968 Vintage Straight fit. They also do lots of other stuff.

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derek guy

@dieworkwear

Feb 7

https://twitter.com/_colourmeamused/status/2019977727277953155

Your suggestions are shit ass.

Let me tell you about backpacks. 🧵

https://twitter.com/_colourmeamused/status/2019977727277953155

Let's first establish good vs bad ways to think about style. The first pic is correct — style is a kind of social language and you have to figure out what type of person you are. The second pic is stupid bc it takes style as disconnected objects ("this is in" vs "this is out").

I should also note here that I'm only talking about style. I'm not here to argue with you about ergonomics, water bottle holders, or whether something accommodates your Dell laptop. I'm am talking about aesthetics.

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derek guy

@dieworkwear

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https://twitter.com/HHyperinflation/status/2018301916598456807

It's true that Canadian Prime Minister Mark Carney has a rounded back and forward pitched shoulders. But let me show you something. 🧵

https://twitter.com/HHyperinflation/status/2018301916598456807

Watch these two videos. Then answer these two questions:

— Which of the two men is better dressed?
— How does each come off?

I think Carney is better dressed, partly because his clothes fit better. Notice that his jacket collar always hugs his neck, while Pierre Poilievre's jacket collar never touches him.

Why do Poilievre's jackets fit like this?

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derek guy

@dieworkwear

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https://twitter.com/MuichirosIover/status/2012579035574866108

The level of craftsmanship that goes into a lot of Japanese menswear simply doesn't exist in the United States. You can do this for many categories — suits, jeans, hats, etc.

In this thread, I will show you just one category: men's shoes 🧵

https://twitter.com/MuichirosIover/status/2012579035574866108

For this comparison, I will focus on Japanese bespoke shoemaking vs. US ready-to-wear. The level of bespoke craftsmanship shown here simply doesn't exist in the US, so a Japanese bespoke vs. US bespoke comparison would be unfair. US bespoke is mostly about orthopedic work.

So instead, I will focus on the best that the US has to offer: ready-to-wear Alden.

On a basic level, top-end Japanese shoes are better because they are handwelted, whereas Alden shoes are Goodyear welted. The first involves more handwork and can be resoled more often.

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derek guy

@dieworkwear

Dec 18, 2025

A story I found about Haiti:

In 1999, a group of Haitians were tired of political disorder and dreamed of a better life in the United States. So they built a small, 23-foot boat by hand using pine trees, scrap wood, and used nails. They called the boat "Believe in God." 🧵

In a boat powered by nothing but a sail, they somehow made it from Tortuga Island to the Bahamas (about a 90 mile distance). Then from the Bahamas, they set sail again. But a few days and some hundred miles later, their makeshift boat began to sink.

The men on the boat were so dehydrated this point, one slipped in and out of consciousness, unable to stand. They were all resigned to their death.

Luckily, they were rescued at the last minute by the US Coast Guard.

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derek guy

@dieworkwear

Dec 1, 2025

https://twitter.com/languidreamer/status/1993032400851648970

After this post went viral, I called Caroline Groves, a world-class bespoke shoemaker, to discuss how women's shoes are made. I normally don't talk about womenswear, but I found the information interesting, so I thought I would share what I learned here. 🧵

https://twitter.com/languidreamer/status/1993032400851648970

First, who is Caroline Groves?

Footwear is broadly broken into two categories: bespoke and ready-to-wear. In London, bespoke makers, including those for women, are largely focused on traditional styles, such as wingtip derbies and loafers. Emiko Matsuda is great for this.

In Paris, there's Massaro, a historic firm that has been operating since 1894, now owned by Chanel. Their designs are less about creating the women's equivalent of traditional men's footwear and more about things such as heels or creative styles. Aesthetic is still "traditional."