If you like quality for quality's sake, and you mostly wear casualwear, then I think you should check out the Japanese brand 45rpm. 🧵
I fell in love with 45rpm 15 years ago after coming across their lookbooks. Their lookbooks at the time were often shot by Eric Kvatek, a talented photographer who now works for Kapital. Here are some images from more recent lookbooks (my old image files are too low res)
The thing about 45pm is that the "quality" is not always apparent to casual observers. Years ago, Antonio of 18 East—who used to run an Isaia sub-label called Eidos—broke down all the work that went into these seemingly basic navy 45rpm chinos.
The materials on these side pockets have been slightly offset, so they looked piped. The fully curtained waistband has been attached to the interior of the pants using handsewn floating bartacks.
More bar tacking on the center back seam. The interior waistband has also been finished with a chainstitch, which is a detail you see on jeans. But since this is a split-back waist, the material has been turned inward by hand. Outseam also has a chainstitch.
Even the bandanas involve a lot of craft. They're woven on old 110 cm looms, which is why these 55 cm bandanas have a selvedge on one side. Designs are hand drawn and then applied using a combination of hand silkscreening and discharge printing.
IMO, people often look for simple ways to understand quality, like durability or the price of the materials. But sometimes quality is about how much time it takes to create an item. Factories don't like stopping and restarting their line, as time is money.
Antonio said that he's never seen a 45rpm garment that one of his Italian suppliers could replicate without charging double. There's always some complicated technique that requires skilled handwork or special machinery that would slow down production.
I once asked Fred Nieddu, a bespoke tailor who made all the menswear for The Crown, if there are any ready-to-wear companies he especially admires. He said 45rpm. When he holds trunk shows in NYC or San Francisco, he tries to make time to visit one of their stores.
As usual, this is not a paid post (I don't even know anyone at 45rpm). Just sharing a brand I admire. The clothes are simple and often inspired by workwear, which may or may not be your bag. But they're cool to check out if you like thoughtful designs, unique details, and quality
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