Arjun Kumar Profile picture
Aug 26, 2020 18 tweets 20 min read Read on X
Been asked what fascinates me abt #Chanderi. More than the fort, baolis, tombs & mosques, Jain rock cut sites & ancient rock art, perhaps what draws me here is the fact that heritage is everywhere in Chanderi. Like this grp of lost temples at Sitamarhi ImageImageImageImage
Spotted in a field outside #Chanderi. Was this structure a shrine or was it part of a walled complex housing a now-lost shrine? It has fragments of icons kept within which probably came from another structure. ImageImageImage
Some yrs ago, while wandering through the area outside #Chanderi, bumped into a sadhu. This person didn't say a word, just kept pointing in a certain direction and off I went... Image
And what did I find? A grp of temples under a huge tree. Lost, abandoned and ruined, their idols thrown aside and damaged. They don't find a place on any protected list, not that lists means much. #Chanderi ImageImageImageImage
Kept walking on that plain outside #Chanderi, ran into another shrine - one which illustrated how temples can be saved from ruin. Perhaps the only way is to give them to the local population to worship in. Sure, they'll paint it in garish colours, but it will survive. ImageImageImageImage
Once upon a time, this was a #Jain temple. And by the size of what remains, a very large one. Today, carved remains are being swallowed by bushes. Just another day of exploration outside #Chanderi. ImageImageImageImage
Outside #Chanderi is a tiny village called #Kadwaha, sometimes written as Kadwaya. This otherwise ordinary place was a Shaivite center in the 10th century CE. 12 temples, identified only by numbers & a monastery remain. Presenting a walk through. These pics frm a twin temple site ImageImageImageImage
The hands that made this! A spectacular panel from another shrine at Kadwaha vil, outside #Chanderi. More pics of this temple tomorrow. Image
Temples in the wilderness, #Kadwaha, #Chanderi. The larger temple is identified by the ASI only by a number - akin to the identification given to prisoners. The smaller has no identity. It is just there. Incredibly, the larger one has someone conducting worship. ImageImageImageImage
More from #Kadwaha, #Chanderi: Two small shrines, ornately carved jewel boxes. In this case, painstakingly restored by the @ASIGoI. ImageImageImageImage
Another gem from #Kadwaha vil, outside #Chanderi. One of many in a landscape dotted with 10th century CE Shiva shrines. Most richly carved like this one. Glad the ASI has at least restored it to this condition. ImageImageImageImage
Last pics from #Kadwaha, #Chanderi. Some gateways are made in heaven. 10th century CE. ImageImage
Beginning a walk-through of #Thubon, another temple-filled village close to #Chanderi. Focal point a #Jain temple, the outer appearance of which has been modified with time. One good thing the community has done is to gather icons frm the region around & bring them together here. ImageImageImageImage
The loneliness of a lost temple! The heritage of #Thubon, nr #Chanderi, is a classic example of why private entities, monitored by the govt, need to play a bigger role in heritage. How long will this fragile shrine, surrounded by the rubble of its broken structure, still stand? Image
Just another day of walking around #Thubon, #Chanderi. A temple whose fragments are scattered around. Possibly 10th-11th century CE. How much more buried under the soil? ImageImageImageImage
Faces from a forgotten past! Which temple did they come from? Which deity do they represent? Another day of wandering around #Chanderi. More from this place tomorrow. Image
The faces came from a temple site at #Terahi vil, outside #Chanderi. Possibly a temple to Chamunda, locals speak of it as a site for tantric worship. Richly carved, a few examples of which I am sharing. ImageImage
A set of pictures from the temple at #Terahi vil, #Chanderi. Faces and figures from our past. Stories of lost narratives told in stone. ImageImageImageImage

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More from @Hiddenheritage

Jun 14, 2020
Beginning a thread on some less-known temples of #Gujarat. These pics are of a grp of 7th century CE temples, Maitraka dynasty, Bhanasara vil, #Junagarh. Lie a short drive frm the coast, on the road that connects #Mangrol to #Porbandar.
A giant stepwell, with four entrances, outskirts of Chobari vil, #Surendranagar, #Gujarat. But perhaps more shrine than stepwell, going by its ornate iconography, including a 12-13th century CE Shesasayi Vishnu. A story I did on this once: timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/ahmedabad…
At Miyani vil, close to #Porbandar, a medieval gateway leads to two 13th century CE temples. One of these, called the Neelkanth Mahadev, remains in worship, despite being in bad shape. #Gujarat
Read 4 tweets
May 23, 2020
Rajgir, #Bihar, once the capital of a powerful kingdom - a kingdom that grew into an empire straddling much of the subcontinent. Today, it is a second-rate town even in its state. But a town dotted with heritage, such as this stupa dated to the 4th-5th centuries BCE.
A pity that the heritage of #Ragjir, #Bihar has been allowed to gently decay sans restoration. This is the shrine of Mani Naga, dated to 4th-6th centuries CE, Gupta period. Now called Maniyar Math, its focal point is a stupa-like circular structure with a hollow core.
Structure called Jarasandh-ka-akhara, #Rajgir, #Bihar. Date unknown. A feature common to many structures here is an elevated platform. There is a site called Jarasandh-ka-teela, in Haryana, a partially excavated stupa site. Not sure of the latter's connection to Jarasandh though.
Read 7 tweets
Jan 25, 2020
#Karnatakatrail: Dusk on a Dec evening found me exploring the Bahmani tomb complex at a village called Holkonda, north of Gulbarga. Structures here being swallowed by the vegetation. ImageImageImage
#Karnatakatrail: The fort at Gulbarga, being gradually swallowed by vegetation. Rusting cannons, crumbling walls. A difficult task for the resource-strapped ASI. ImageImageImageImage
#Karnatakatrail: Unlike neighbouring #Bijapur where stepwells, pleasure pavilions have survived, Gulbarga is dotted with tombs, which are literally everywhere. Like ghosts of a forgotten past! This huge structure looms up in a residential area called Santraswadi. Image
Read 6 tweets
Jan 23, 2020
#Chanderifauna: Some yrs ago, on a cold Dec morning in #Chanderi - my fav heritage destination - I was woken by a persistent knocking on the window. It turned out to be this bird, shot through the frosted glass. Perhaps it was urging me to get up and begin exploring. Image
@MPTourism #Chanderifauna: Spotted this bird - a woodpecker I think - perched nr #Chanderi fort, lost in thought. Was black & white ever as striking as this? Image
@MPTourism #Chanderifauna: Butterflies aren't always perfect, some are frayed, like this one I spotted in the #Jain temple complex in Budhi Chanderi. Image
Read 7 tweets
Jan 7, 2020
An interesting recent addition to the collection, a book that plunges into the historical linkages of a mammoth epic. The connections are perhaps easier to make as I have visited most of the excavated sites mentioned, esp Kaushambi. Image
More recent additions, these from the world book fair, in Delhi. A massive 3-volume listing of #hiddenheritage monuments in #Odisha. Amazed that the govt's publications division was giving this set away at a throwaway price. Image
More from the book fair: the memoirs of Britain's best known WW II commander and a book on personal anecdotes from the war. Image
Read 9 tweets
Dec 31, 2019
@GetThatOut @RamapradeepM Interesting pt which needs more probing. Here's what I can add, at some length: 'Found' means that in 2016, the statue was identified for what it was and re-discovered by officials of the ASI.
@GetThatOut @RamapradeepM Further, when it was found, the locals state that it was not standing erect like in the pic but was lying inclined. Exactly how it was lying I am not aware of - face down or face up. Let me also describe the path to the Bahubali.
@GetThatOut @RamapradeepM Sharing some pics of the path to the Bahubali. The base of the hill is surrounded by woods on all sides through which a walking path was created post 2016. Accessed to the hilltop is through an opening in a set of rocks. A visitor needs to bend low and walk sideways to get in. ImageImage
Read 7 tweets

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