Ready to depart along the Oregon Trail from its starting point at Independence, Missouri.
For the next two weeks, this will be the route my son and I will follow (with the exception of a short trip tomorrow up to St. Joseph, the other starting point for the Trail).
The county courthouse in Independence, Missouri - the central portion of which was built in 1836 - was the gathering point for wagon trains leaving along the Oregon Trail, which began in 1843.
Independence was the starting point for three trails - to Oregon, California, and Santa Fe, New Mexico - because it was the farthest point westward on the Missouri River that could be reached reliably by steamboat.
The Steamboat Arabia Museum in downtown Kansas City displays artifacts recovered from just such a steamboat that snagged a branch and sank a bit further up the Missouri River in 1856.
The Arabia was lost under tons of mud and forgotten as the course of the river shifted, until a local family located and recovered it in 1988.
The wooden stern of the boat remained largely intact, including the rudder.
So were the boilers and steam engine that powered the boat's massive paddle wheel.
Heck, they even found the rogue tree stump that sank that boat in the first place.
But the real treasure they discovered was the boat’s cargo: thousands of everyday items being shipped to the American frontier. Plates, bottles, metalware, hardware, tools, shoes and boots.
Clothing, almost perfectly preserved for over a century. Keys, door knobs, nails. All the commerce that connected the industrializing coast to the Western frontier.
Even 150 year old pickles still in their bottles.
Specialty items like a set of printer's type for a frontier newspaper. Bottles of writing ink for letters back home. Colorful buttons and beads for trade with the Indians. In short, everything you might stock up on when departing in your wagon on Trail west.
The amazing part is, these aren't replicas. They're actual items from the past, almost miraculously preserved. If not for the boat's accident, these articles would have followed the trails west, with the emigrants.
Meanwhile, we're following the Trail on its initial curve to the south, out of Independence.
The Trail passes right beside the Bingham-Waggoner mansion, built in 1852 by the owner of the local flour mill, and later purchased by a local artist famed for his images of the western frontier.
The flour mill itself now houses the National Frontier Trails Museum. Though it is temporarily closed due to COVID, the museum holds the largest archive of letters and diaries written by the emigrants along the Trail.
By wagon, the Oregon Trail took 5-6 months, making 10 or so miles a day. Obviously we can't afford that pace, and our initial wagon ride will only take us the first few miles.
It's worth noting that the wagons on the Oregon Trail were drawn either by oxen or mules, not by horses. We have mules today. Though these hybrids cannot reproduce, they combine the size and strength of horses with the stamina and canny intelligence of donkeys.
Some further miles south of Independence (and now in our car), we pass the Rice-Tremonti Home. Built in 1844, many emigrants reported receiving a warm welcome and fresh food there. The cabin to the right were the slave quarters, as Missouri was a slave state.
Cave Spring Park, a few miles further on, often served as the first day's campsite. When we got there this morning, we were greeted with a summer thunderstorm, so we didn't go venturing to see the spring itself.
But a few miles to the southeast, at the corner of 85th and Manchester, the grass-covered ruts of the Trail were just visible, making their way up this slope through the surrounding vegetation.
And soon, to the south of modern-day Kansas City, we reached the first river crossing, a relatively easy ford across the Blue River. From here, the wagon trains turned west, out of Missouri and into Kansas.
We, however, won't be following the route straight into Kansas, but will head north tomorrow along the Missouri River to St. Joseph, the other starting point of the Oregon Trail - as well as the starting point of the Pony Express.
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The US reported +660 new coronavirus deaths yesterday, bringing the total to 636,298. The 7-day moving average rose to 537 deaths per day,
The US reported +143,537 new confirmed cases of COVID-19 yesterday, the highest number since January 30, bringing the total to over 37.2 million. The 7-day moving average rose to 125,557 new cases per day.
New hospital admissions in the US due to COVID-19 rose +29.6% from a week ago.
We stopped today to visit the Frontier Army Museum at Fort Leavenworth, Kansas. Though the museum is open to the public, it took a bit of time to apply for a security pass to get onto what still is a very active military post.
The fort was originally founded in 1827 by Colonel Henry Leavenworth, who was ordered to secure a base on the western bank of the Missouri River to protect the Santa Fe Trail into Mexico.
Throughout the 19th Century, Fort Leavenworth served as the critical logistics base for western expansion, whether into Mexico or across to Oregon, or to support the military actions against the Indian tribes in-between.
A visit to the TWA Museum today at the airline's former corporate headquarters at Charles B. Wheeler Airport just outside of downtown Kansas City, Missouri.
The propeller of a Ford Trimotor flown by Charles Lindbergh to promote TWA in its early days in Kansas City.
A wicker chair that served as a First Class seat in a TWA Ford Trimotor. This particular chair was sat in by Amelia Earhart, hired to promote the airline to women.
Animals I have had actual encounters with in the wild:
- a tiger (did not see, but heard it growl)
- a pack of stray dogs in Greece
- a very big and scary dog in Tibet
- a very well-fed and sedate crocodile
- a rhino making noise outside my hut
- many, many monkeys over the years
also a sloth bear, though my guide was quite concerned it just sat there.
I guess the crocodile(s) weren't really wild. But they were big.
President Harry Truman's boyhood home in Independence, Missouri. Now, I believe, a private residence.
Just a few blocks away, Truman's home after he was married. And which he used as his "Summer White House" from 1945 to 1953. Sadly closed due to COVID, so we'll have to come back someday to see inside.
Inside the American Jazz Museum, Kansas City, Missouri.
Monument to jazz musician Charlie Parker, a native of Kansas City, outside the American Jazz Museum.
Inside the Negro Leagues Baseball Museum, next door to the American Jazz Museum in Kansas City, Missouri, telling the story of Black baseball stars in a segregated America.