1 - Dim the lights, grab the popcorn: #threadtalk is going to the (creepy) movies. 🎃🍿🥤
This special edition features a broad list of films that haunt, terrify & sometimes titillate--but always with style. Horror, musicals, cartoons (& odd Disney choices) we've got 'em all. 🔪
2 - NOTE: Inclusion in this list does not mean my personal approval of their director(s), creator(s), actors, producers, etc. Hollywood is nasty on a good day, & some of these films have not aged well.
These are pulled from *my* personal experience in horror films. So, YMMV.
3 - I'm beginning with ROSEMARY'S BABY (1968). Starring Mia Farrow as the mother of a the spawn of Satan himself, I definitely saw this movie way too young (thanks, Mom!).
The poster it fantastic, but it's Farrow's innocent pastel wardrobe that makes the fashion statement.
4 - As the film progresses, Farrow's wardrobe gets frillier and flowerier & for many of the key scenes she's wearing this baby-blue nightgown.
So what, you ask? Blue is the color of the Virgin Mary & audiences at the time would have been totally aware of that intense irony.
5 - 1978's THE ROCKY HORROR PICTURE SHOW went another route. Campy, wild, and absolutely reveling in gender-bending irreverence, it was called "tasteless, plotless, & pointless" by Newsweek.
This footage from '74 shows Tim Curry behind the scenes:
6 - CLEARLY Rocky's legacy was far from pointless. And the costume! I don't have to tell you how life-changing they were for generations.
Sequins, stretch lamé, bondage, corsets, boas... space suits? Every actor owning it every second on screen. Such antici... pation!
7 - 1980 brings my personal trauma, THE WATCHER IN THE WOODS, which came from Disney of all places. Featuring one of the original women of horror herself, Bette Davis, this film had the terrifying phrase "NERAK" and a ghostly reflection of a girl in a funhouse mirror.
8 - When I tell you I lost sleep from this film, I don't mean a few hours. I mean DAYS.
The funhouse sequence and that damned pristine cotton white dress & blindfold is etched permanently into my psyche. "HELP ME!"
Trailer is here, if you missed it:
9 - You cannot tell me that RETURN TO OZ (1985) is not a horror film. (Granted our VHS was so worn from overuse that the music was completely distorted)
ALSO because of this absolute nightmare: Princess Mombi. Behold that opulence, the gold & velvet. Also spikes. Because...
10 - This bitch had a HALL OF HEADS. Beautiful gowns aside, when she felt like it, she just like... PUT ON ANOTHER HEAD. And she wanted Dorothy's. NBD.
Who needs wigs when you have ENTIRE HEADS. I remember being like, "But who were these other women?!?" Disney, WTF.
11 - Speaking of missing heads, BEETLEJUICE (1988) could take an entire thread to itself. As far as I'm concerned, it's a costume masterpiece.
But I'm here to talk about Lydia Deetz. Because, personally, when I saw her on screen as a kid, my weird self felt absolutely SEEN.
12 - Turns out, at 16, Winona Ryder collaborated directly with costume designer Aggie Guerard Rodgers on Lydia's outfits--some were Winona's own clothes.
And the famous final outfit? That was all Ryder's idea.
Dance break:
13 - THE WITCHES (1990) served up another kind of "kid-friendly" WTF.
We get the luminous and diabolical Angelica Houston as the titular witch in the adaptation of Roald Dahl's book (known to many, of course, as Morticia Addams). Her bob? Her bangs? Her velvet hat? But also...
14 - She. Peels. Off. Her. Face.
(There is so much WRONG in so many WAYS I don't have time to get into the whole thing, and then they made a whole other movie and did the whole thing again.)
15 - BRAM STOKER'S DRACULA (1992) features Winona Ryder again, but also a delicious Gary Oldman in sumptuous velvets (& muscle armor) with Eiko Ishioka's genius costuming work--for which she won an Academy Award.
I mean, this film is a costuming masterclass. I'm still in awe.
16 - Oldman has to play such a range in the film, and the costuming follows him on that journey--no matter the prosthetics, the dramatics, or the sets.
Ishioka's art & vision almost bring tears to my eyes, honestly. Rarely do you see such a complete story in fabric in film.
17 - Hot on the vampire trend, INTERVIEW WITH THE VAMPIRE (1994) brought us Cruise & Pitt.
But I was all about Claudia (Kirsten Dunst) & that TAFFETA. I'm pretty sure there was about 30 metric tons of taffeta. Sandy Powell just have had to buy in bulk.
18 - Plus we got so much court style dress in this film. Embroidery! Gold floss! Decadence! Bows! Satin!
And Antonio Banderas just *existing* in crushed red velvet like it was his job.
19 - PAN'S LABYRINTH (2006) is probably my favorite film? The costuming is a story in and of itself, hearkening to Oz, Alice in Wonderland, and beyond--all while maintaining lush, natural textures that play to the story's deep, difficult subject matter. Speaking of taffeta...
20 - For me, the film balances *real* world horror with fantasy horror & it gets me every time. The deterioration of the costumes mirrors the deterioration of Ofelia's family & whew. Emotional gut punching.
And this scene, with the silk brocade? Excuse me while I go weep.
21 - BLACK SWAN (2010) scared the living crap out of me. And it's the hat trick for Winona Ryder. I did not go in expecting that a ballerina movie would haunt me for days, but there you go.
The pain of ballet is no secret, and the costumes played up that violence with angles.
22 - With a minimal color palette, the costumers instead used lighting, textures & motion to create that hectic, stifling, out of control sense of strangulation and mistrust in the film. Plus TULLE. Lots of TULLE.
Is it cliché symbolism? YUP. Still effective? Also yup.
23 - ONLY LOVERS LEFT ALIVE (2013) is Tilda Swinton and Tom Hiddleston as vampires.
That's it. That's the tweet.
24 - I would like to say something a bit more intelligent, but really.
1 - 🎃 Welcome to #ThreadTalk! It's the spookiest month & we're jumping right in with a look at ghostly garb👻!
Thrills, chills & blood-curdling horrors await as we take a trip through history & ask the question: "Okay, but what would that ghost *actually* be wearing?" 🎃
2 - We're starting in Japan. Because Japan has the best ghosts & my favorite art. Yūrei (幽霊) are closer to a Western concept of ghosts, but spirits of all kinds are common through Japanese folklore.
This one is from the incredible Bakemono no e, dating from around 1700.
3 - The Yūrei are often depicted as women with long, black hair. By the date of this print, I'd say a kosode (a kimono precursor) would be a good match.
The colors are natural, pale, haunting. You see in the embroidered closeup, too, all the sea grass & shellwork. Just wow.
It's astounding how often spicy scenes get trashed in fantasy, but I find I spend way more time working them out--especially because they have to serve a lot of purposes.
For me, it's always an emotional/character moment. The reader is going to be REALLY paying attention now.
This is especially true in a romance, where the characters are coming together for the FIRST TIME.
It's got to have that emotional punch, and a lot of complexity. Otherwise it's like a bad fight scene. Lots of equipment/weapons, and bad choreography.
Personally, for me, *how* a character initiates intimacy, with whom, and in what way, is a big glimpse into who they are.
1 - It's time for #threadtalk! Today's topic, the Grand Dame of Damask: Anna Maria Garthwaite.
This silk icon has quite a tale, but so does her stomping ground of Spitalfields, London.
And beyond the frippery? The horrors of 18thC England: persecution, riots & taxes🕍🔪💷
2 - Anna Maria was born in 1688 in Lincolnshire, to Rev. Ephraim Garthwaite & Rejoyce (rad name). The family was well to do & Anna Maria would have had a basic education. She showed early artistic prowess, like in this 1707 cut-paper work of a village w/remarkable detail.
3 - I mean, look at the incredible detail on this. Each and every tree has a different shape & leaf pattern, far beyond basic representation. The little horse and rider, the delicate horns on the deer. Painstaking work here that foreshadows the skill of an artist, to be certain.
Buckle up, though. There is a distinct lack of dazzle today.
We're meeting the makers & laborers of apparel history--& how they lived & died for their craft.
2 - In Asia, & China specifically, silk became one of the first real fabric blockbusters for trade during the Han Dynasty, beginning the Silk Road.
Traditionally, weaving was left to women while men farmed & sold, and this continued as trade grew.
3 - Francesca Bray puts it simply in "Textile Production & Gender Roles":“The growth of the textile industry involved new forms of organization of production that made men the skilled workers and marginalized women.”
This is by no means unique to China. It's the story of fabric.
1 - Hey folks! It's a surprise #threadtalk on the medieval theme of the moment: #TheGreenKnight! I just had to come out of hibernation to talk about what I saw in the theater.
Velvet! Crêpe! CROWNS! Pentagrams! I've got you covered. Well, at least *partially*. 📗🪓
2 - Yes, we're starting with that cloak & color choice. Keeping things spoiler-free here, Gawain is seen wearing a golden velvet cloak very early on.
It's quilted, so nice & warm. It's golden, but also a bit ochre--yellow can mean golden, but also... well, cowardice, y'know?
3 - Velvet is a perfect choice for the nephew of Arthur. It's HELLA expensive (as we've covered; links later). This is SILK velvet. Not polyester crap from the 70s. And it takes skilled labor beyond reasoning to make.
But it also *absorbs light*. I feel like this is essential.
Do I hate Lancelot? No. I'm mostly French. I enjoy quite a bit of the French stuff. I also like that he sticks it (hahahahaha) to Arthur.
Do I hate Malory? Hate is a strong word, but I think a lot of Malory is crap and ruinous.
That said, I'm generally of a mind that nearly everyone in the Arthurian canon is terrible in one way or another.
As I said in my #GreenKnight review: it's about entropy and destruction, a golden age deteriorating toward a dystopia.
There are glimmers of joy, but it's rough.
Love means treason; loyalty means war.
Unification means subjugation and cultural erasure.
Mordred isn't the problem. Uther begins the whole dynasty with unspeakable violence and deception. Magic is the scapegoat, but it's a weapon of war just the same.