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Fantasy author, #threadtalk host, medievalist, #Arthurian, #Regency nerd, liminal witch, #ADHD, queer, she/they ⚔️ QUEEN OF FURY - '22⚔️ rep: @staceyigraham
May 16 35 tweets 16 min read
1 - Ahoy! #threadtalk is sea bound--or at least a cozy room below--exploring the phenomenon of OUR FLAG MEANS DEATH & its revival of mens night-gowns, or banyans.🫖

This pinnacle of masculinity has a rich, wide, global history, full of intrigue. Away to Bonnet's banyans! #ofmd Taika Waititi and Rhys Darby as Blackbeard and Stede Bonnet. 2 - There is some disagreement about when exactly the banyan became a Western gentleman's fashion staple. We know influences from Japan & India coalesced in the late 17thC.

Between colonization & an obsession with "chinoiserie", by 1730, it was a fad. Matthew Prior (below) 1718. Matthew Prior, poet and ambassador to France, painted in a r
Mar 15 32 tweets 0 min read
Feb 11 21 tweets 9 min read
1 - Get ready, I'm ringing in a last-minute #threadtalk all about #TheRingsOfPower pictures that just dropped today.

Oh my precious, precious nerd heart.

This Galadriel fangirl is having a moment, so now that I'm fortified with lembas, let us peer into the future. 💍🧙‍♂️🧝‍♀️🌿 Galadriel (played by Morfydd Clark) -- in Elven armor, with 2 - Galadriel is front and center, and the @VanityFair article heralding her tale puts the elf in full armor with Victorian lines & High Gothic design.
The tiered chain mail, that snatched waist & that gorgeous sword! The look is familiar to fans of the films, but w/a new twist. Gray-blue visiting dress, labeled “Worth / 7. Rue de la Pa
Jan 26 12 tweets 2 min read
I don't believe in adulting. I don't think it's a thing. I think it's capitalism?

Like, stay with me here. So much "adulting" is because we are made to fend for ourselves. Because we live in a profit-focused society, where we earn our keep, so we don't have a close community. Late-state capitalism has widened this gap between fierce, isolated communities, and large, but transient communities.

Our neighborhoods are constantly shifting because people must relocate to find new jobs, better opportunities, etc.

Or we become insular.
Nov 8, 2021 24 tweets 12 min read
1 - Hello, darlings. Welcome to #Threadtalk! This edition we're taking an interstellar trip to Arrakis to review the costumes of #Dune (2021).

Like before, featuring minimal to no spoilers. A focus on fashion and its relation to fashion history, plus bit of... spice. 🪐 Rebecca Ferguson as Lady Jessica in blue sheer material and 2 - Now, I came to this film as a DUNE novice, so you can imagine my surprise when, at the very beginning, folks were talking about levels of fancy dress!

Turns out, over 10K years in the future, rich folks still gotta keep up appearances. So let's start with House Atreides. Oscar Isaac as Leto in DUNE (2021) wearing a black military
Oct 18, 2021 29 tweets 16 min read
1 - Dim the lights, grab the popcorn: #threadtalk is going to the (creepy) movies. 🎃🍿🥤

This special edition features a broad list of films that haunt, terrify & sometimes titillate--but always with style. Horror, musicals, cartoons (& odd Disney choices) we've got 'em all. 🔪 The original release poster of the 1975 cult film, "The 2 - NOTE: Inclusion in this list does not mean my personal approval of their director(s), creator(s), actors, producers, etc. Hollywood is nasty on a good day, & some of these films have not aged well.

These are pulled from *my* personal experience in horror films. So, YMMV. Photo by Raúl Nájera on Unsplash  - a sign on a background
Oct 4, 2021 12 tweets 5 min read
1 - 🎃 Welcome to #ThreadTalk! It's the spookiest month & we're jumping right in with a look at ghostly garb👻!

Thrills, chills & blood-curdling horrors await as we take a trip through history & ask the question: "Okay, but what would that ghost *actually* be wearing?" 🎃 October 3, 2021 - @nataniabarron - #ThreadTalk - Ghostly Gar 2 - We're starting in Japan. Because Japan has the best ghosts & my favorite art. Yūrei (幽霊) are closer to a Western concept of ghosts, but spirits of all kinds are common through Japanese folklore.

This one is from the incredible Bakemono no e, dating from around 1700.
Oct 4, 2021 5 tweets 1 min read
It's astounding how often spicy scenes get trashed in fantasy, but I find I spend way more time working them out--especially because they have to serve a lot of purposes.

For me, it's always an emotional/character moment. The reader is going to be REALLY paying attention now. This is especially true in a romance, where the characters are coming together for the FIRST TIME.

It's got to have that emotional punch, and a lot of complexity. Otherwise it's like a bad fight scene. Lots of equipment/weapons, and bad choreography.
Sep 13, 2021 35 tweets 18 min read
1 - It's time for #threadtalk! Today's topic, the Grand Dame of Damask: Anna Maria Garthwaite.

This silk icon has quite a tale, but so does her stomping ground of Spitalfields, London.

And beyond the frippery? The horrors of 18thC England: persecution, riots & taxes🕍🔪💷 2 - Anna Maria was born in 1688 in Lincolnshire, to Rev. Ephraim Garthwaite & Rejoyce (rad name). The family was well to do & Anna Maria would have had a basic education. She showed early artistic prowess, like in this 1707 cut-paper work of a village w/remarkable detail. This cut-paper work picture shows a country house of around
Sep 6, 2021 31 tweets 17 min read
1 - Welcome to #ThreadTalk, #LaborDay edition. Our topic? Mills, Strikes & Textile Labor.

Buckle up, though. There is a distinct lack of dazzle today.

We're meeting the makers & laborers of apparel history--& how they lived & died for their craft. @nataniabarron - September ... 2 - In Asia, & China specifically, silk became one of the first real fabric blockbusters for trade during the Han Dynasty, beginning the Silk Road.
Traditionally, weaving was left to women while men farmed & sold, and this continued as trade grew. Women working silk together...
Aug 3, 2021 23 tweets 11 min read
1 - Hey folks! It's a surprise #threadtalk on the medieval theme of the moment: #TheGreenKnight! I just had to come out of hibernation to talk about what I saw in the theater.

Velvet! Crêpe! CROWNS! Pentagrams! I've got you covered. Well, at least *partially*. 📗🪓 Dev Patel as Sir Gawain in The Green Knight fro A24 Films. A 2 - Yes, we're starting with that cloak & color choice. Keeping things spoiler-free here, Gawain is seen wearing a golden velvet cloak very early on.

It's quilted, so nice & warm. It's golden, but also a bit ochre--yellow can mean golden, but also... well, cowardice, y'know? Dev Patel as Sir Gawain in The Green Knight by A24 Films in
Aug 2, 2021 5 tweets 1 min read
Do I hate Lancelot? No. I'm mostly French. I enjoy quite a bit of the French stuff. I also like that he sticks it (hahahahaha) to Arthur.

Do I hate Malory? Hate is a strong word, but I think a lot of Malory is crap and ruinous. That said, I'm generally of a mind that nearly everyone in the Arthurian canon is terrible in one way or another.

As I said in my #GreenKnight review: it's about entropy and destruction, a golden age deteriorating toward a dystopia.

There are glimmers of joy, but it's rough.
Jun 2, 2021 37 tweets 17 min read
1 - Tonight's #threadtalk is a horse of a different color: green to be exact.

We'll talk emerald🟩, verdigris & olive🫒, too. Plus the connection between wallpaper, poison☠️ & privilege.

First: some color history back to our (literal) roots. (below, Redincote, 1786 - 1789) The origin of the redingote lies in long men’s coats with 2 - If you peruse art history books, you'll notice: finding vibrant green dresses before the 18th century is quite a challenge.

And there is a reason for that: green it a notoriously difficult color to capture affordably & reliably.

Unless you're, you know... Queen Elizabeth I with a gold gown, high lace collar, and a
Jun 1, 2021 4 tweets 1 min read
This pride month, I'm particularly proud that I didn't give up and "straighten out" my writing on my search for an agent.

Even my very VERY first novel, an epic fantasy, had a queer main character. Even before I was out myself! To be fair, I did not know that bisexuals existed because Evangelical religious trauma etc.

If I did, I'd have had a far less confusing life.

Also thought if you got married to a boy you, like, didn't "count" anymore?
May 17, 2021 37 tweets 18 min read
1 - Welcome to #ThreadTalk!

Ah, mawwiage. We're going nuptial.

💕If you're hoping for whimsy & romance, well... you probably haven't been here before.💕

For most of history, marriage has been about money & power, just like the fashion it's inspired. (Below, 1841, satin) This wedding dress was worn in 1841 by an unknown but fashio 2 - Though anthropologists don't know exactly when marriage began, it seems to be universal.

For most of history, marriage was not about love, butensuring legitimacy of offspring, cementing family alliances, & consolidating wealth. See our ladies preparing: Greece, 5th C BCE. Women preparing for a wedding in a Greek relief on pottery.
May 10, 2021 19 tweets 11 min read
1 - It's Monday! That means it's #threadtalk time. But today we're doing a bit of a retrospective.

Somehow, I've done 16 of these already!

So get your bookmarks ready, we're about to do a #ThreadofThreadtalk. 2 - First up is #chintz. You might think of it as your grandmother's cushions, but it's really a remarkable history that takes us to India and the history of print cotton.

We also get our first glimpse into sumptuary laws and MURDER.

May 10, 2021 6 tweets 1 min read
My almost 9 year old daughter has finally finished the Avengers films.

Her resounding fury: "WHY DO THEY THROW ALL THE WOMEN OFF CLIFFS!?" I'm proud of her, but doubly disappointed. When Black Widow died, she was already reeling from Gamora.

She sobbed in my arms for like 15 minutes because she was PISSED OFF.

We have got to do better. We have got to demand better.
May 3, 2021 35 tweets 18 min read
1 - It's time for #ThreadTalk & today we're swathing ourselves in the history of the kaftan!

Don't know your kaftan from your muumuu, dashiki, or Banyan? That's okay. We'll get there.

This ancient garment became a Regency staple🎩, a 1960s essential ☮️ & a modern must-have.🧥 A striped and heavily embroidered kaftan style robe. The str 2 - The word itself is Persian: خفتان khaftān. In simple terms, it's a tunic or a robe, often open down the front & tied with a sash.

This kind of garment goes back as far as Mesopotamia, but rose to prominence during the Abbasid Caliphate. This bowl dates from the 10thC. A man possibly holding a weapon and wearing a helmet. Abbasi
Apr 27, 2021 12 tweets 7 min read
23 - I could do a whole thread on caftans, and maybe I should?

This caftan is from Turkey and dates from the 19th century, and y'all know I love gold and red. The stripes contain the floral pattern, and draw the eye up and around.

10/10 would wear right now. d A gold and red caftan with stripes at the edges and down the 24 - So much happening here, and normally would avoid this period -- but I am such a sucker for green velvet accents that I had to share this one. It's also a lovely closeup. 1861-1863, England. And it's moiré silk. So um. Just gaze. ©Victoria and Albert Museum, London - Evening dress of moir
Apr 26, 2021 23 tweets 10 min read
1 - Welcome to #ThreadTalk! This week we're talking stripes. And let me say, y'all have *opinions.*

Which is totally on brand for this pattern.

From the high seas🏴‍☠️ to the school yard🧑‍🎓, the red light district 🚨to the palace at Versailles🏰: Let's dive into the striped past.  Visiting dress, 1867 - French. A silk striped dress in pale 2 - Stripes may be humankind's first fabric pattern, simply woven in as the yarn color shifted from one to another. The word "stripe" is from "a line in cloth."

And stripes show up everywhere: fabric, pottery, and jewelry. Like this Neolithic (2650 BC) pot from China. Gorgeous! A Neolithic pot from what is now China, about 4500 years old
Apr 19, 2021 35 tweets 20 min read
1 - Welcome to #threadtalk, the first in my icon series.

Yup. It's gonna be ruff.

It's fitting that begin with the very monarch who signed the East India Company into being: Queen Elizabeth I.

Join me as we travel back to the 16thC to one truly warped family. 👑🧵🪡 Queen Elizabeth I with an immense, ornately decorated ruff, 2 - No one expected the daughter of Henry VIII & Anne Boleyn would ascend the throne--but she did. Her coronation (1558) portrait shows her swathed in cloth of gold--the very same her deceased sister Mary had worn (bit creepy).

Oh, that cloth of gold? £2170 a yard in today's $$. Elizabeth is wearing a dress decorated with Tudor roses and