Fantasy author, fashion historian, medievalist 🏳️🌈 | 👑 QUEEN OF NONE & NETHERFORD HALL OUT NOW from @solarisbooks 👑 | rep: @staceyigraham
Oct 18, 2021 • 29 tweets • 16 min read
1 - Dim the lights, grab the popcorn: #threadtalk is going to the (creepy) movies. 🎃🍿🥤
This special edition features a broad list of films that haunt, terrify & sometimes titillate--but always with style. Horror, musicals, cartoons (& odd Disney choices) we've got 'em all. 🔪
2 - NOTE: Inclusion in this list does not mean my personal approval of their director(s), creator(s), actors, producers, etc. Hollywood is nasty on a good day, & some of these films have not aged well.
These are pulled from *my* personal experience in horror films. So, YMMV.
Oct 4, 2021 • 12 tweets • 5 min read
1 - 🎃 Welcome to #ThreadTalk! It's the spookiest month & we're jumping right in with a look at ghostly garb👻!
Thrills, chills & blood-curdling horrors await as we take a trip through history & ask the question: "Okay, but what would that ghost *actually* be wearing?" 🎃
2 - We're starting in Japan. Because Japan has the best ghosts & my favorite art. Yūrei (幽霊) are closer to a Western concept of ghosts, but spirits of all kinds are common through Japanese folklore.
This one is from the incredible Bakemono no e, dating from around 1700.
Oct 4, 2021 • 5 tweets • 1 min read
It's astounding how often spicy scenes get trashed in fantasy, but I find I spend way more time working them out--especially because they have to serve a lot of purposes.
For me, it's always an emotional/character moment. The reader is going to be REALLY paying attention now.
This is especially true in a romance, where the characters are coming together for the FIRST TIME.
It's got to have that emotional punch, and a lot of complexity. Otherwise it's like a bad fight scene. Lots of equipment/weapons, and bad choreography.
Sep 13, 2021 • 35 tweets • 18 min read
1 - It's time for #threadtalk! Today's topic, the Grand Dame of Damask: Anna Maria Garthwaite.
This silk icon has quite a tale, but so does her stomping ground of Spitalfields, London.
And beyond the frippery? The horrors of 18thC England: persecution, riots & taxes🕍🔪💷
2 - Anna Maria was born in 1688 in Lincolnshire, to Rev. Ephraim Garthwaite & Rejoyce (rad name). The family was well to do & Anna Maria would have had a basic education. She showed early artistic prowess, like in this 1707 cut-paper work of a village w/remarkable detail.
Buckle up, though. There is a distinct lack of dazzle today.
We're meeting the makers & laborers of apparel history--& how they lived & died for their craft.
2 - In Asia, & China specifically, silk became one of the first real fabric blockbusters for trade during the Han Dynasty, beginning the Silk Road.
Traditionally, weaving was left to women while men farmed & sold, and this continued as trade grew.
Aug 3, 2021 • 23 tweets • 11 min read
1 - Hey folks! It's a surprise #threadtalk on the medieval theme of the moment: #TheGreenKnight! I just had to come out of hibernation to talk about what I saw in the theater.
Velvet! Crêpe! CROWNS! Pentagrams! I've got you covered. Well, at least *partially*. 📗🪓
2 - Yes, we're starting with that cloak & color choice. Keeping things spoiler-free here, Gawain is seen wearing a golden velvet cloak very early on.
It's quilted, so nice & warm. It's golden, but also a bit ochre--yellow can mean golden, but also... well, cowardice, y'know?
Aug 2, 2021 • 5 tweets • 1 min read
Do I hate Lancelot? No. I'm mostly French. I enjoy quite a bit of the French stuff. I also like that he sticks it (hahahahaha) to Arthur.
Do I hate Malory? Hate is a strong word, but I think a lot of Malory is crap and ruinous.
That said, I'm generally of a mind that nearly everyone in the Arthurian canon is terrible in one way or another.
As I said in my #GreenKnight review: it's about entropy and destruction, a golden age deteriorating toward a dystopia.
There are glimmers of joy, but it's rough.
Jun 2, 2021 • 37 tweets • 17 min read
1 - Tonight's #threadtalk is a horse of a different color: green to be exact.
We'll talk emerald🟩, verdigris & olive🫒, too. Plus the connection between wallpaper, poison☠️ & privilege.
First: some color history back to our (literal) roots. (below, Redincote, 1786 - 1789)
2 - If you peruse art history books, you'll notice: finding vibrant green dresses before the 18th century is quite a challenge.
And there is a reason for that: green it a notoriously difficult color to capture affordably & reliably.
Unless you're, you know...
Jun 1, 2021 • 4 tweets • 1 min read
This pride month, I'm particularly proud that I didn't give up and "straighten out" my writing on my search for an agent.
Even my very VERY first novel, an epic fantasy, had a queer main character. Even before I was out myself!
To be fair, I did not know that bisexuals existed because Evangelical religious trauma etc.
If I did, I'd have had a far less confusing life.
Also thought if you got married to a boy you, like, didn't "count" anymore?
💕If you're hoping for whimsy & romance, well... you probably haven't been here before.💕
For most of history, marriage has been about money & power, just like the fashion it's inspired. (Below, 1841, satin)
2 - Though anthropologists don't know exactly when marriage began, it seems to be universal.
For most of history, marriage was not about love, butensuring legitimacy of offspring, cementing family alliances, & consolidating wealth. See our ladies preparing: Greece, 5th C BCE.
May 10, 2021 • 19 tweets • 11 min read
1 - It's Monday! That means it's #threadtalk time. But today we're doing a bit of a retrospective.
Somehow, I've done 16 of these already!
So get your bookmarks ready, we're about to do a #ThreadofThreadtalk.
2 - First up is #chintz. You might think of it as your grandmother's cushions, but it's really a remarkable history that takes us to India and the history of print cotton.
We also get our first glimpse into sumptuary laws and MURDER.
My almost 9 year old daughter has finally finished the Avengers films.
Her resounding fury: "WHY DO THEY THROW ALL THE WOMEN OFF CLIFFS!?"
I'm proud of her, but doubly disappointed. When Black Widow died, she was already reeling from Gamora.
She sobbed in my arms for like 15 minutes because she was PISSED OFF.
We have got to do better. We have got to demand better.
May 3, 2021 • 35 tweets • 18 min read
1 - It's time for #ThreadTalk & today we're swathing ourselves in the history of the kaftan!
Don't know your kaftan from your muumuu, dashiki, or Banyan? That's okay. We'll get there.
This ancient garment became a Regency staple🎩, a 1960s essential ☮️ & a modern must-have.🧥
2 - The word itself is Persian: خفتان khaftān. In simple terms, it's a tunic or a robe, often open down the front & tied with a sash.
This kind of garment goes back as far as Mesopotamia, but rose to prominence during the Abbasid Caliphate. This bowl dates from the 10thC.
Apr 27, 2021 • 12 tweets • 7 min read
23 - I could do a whole thread on caftans, and maybe I should?
This caftan is from Turkey and dates from the 19th century, and y'all know I love gold and red. The stripes contain the floral pattern, and draw the eye up and around.
10/10 would wear right now. d
24 - So much happening here, and normally would avoid this period -- but I am such a sucker for green velvet accents that I had to share this one. It's also a lovely closeup. 1861-1863, England. And it's moiré silk. So um. Just gaze.
Apr 26, 2021 • 23 tweets • 10 min read
1 - Welcome to #ThreadTalk! This week we're talking stripes. And let me say, y'all have *opinions.*
Which is totally on brand for this pattern.
From the high seas🏴☠️ to the school yard🧑🎓, the red light district 🚨to the palace at Versailles🏰: Let's dive into the striped past.
2 - Stripes may be humankind's first fabric pattern, simply woven in as the yarn color shifted from one to another. The word "stripe" is from "a line in cloth."
And stripes show up everywhere: fabric, pottery, and jewelry. Like this Neolithic (2650 BC) pot from China. Gorgeous!
Apr 19, 2021 • 35 tweets • 20 min read
1 - Welcome to #threadtalk, the first in my icon series.
Yup. It's gonna be ruff.
It's fitting that begin with the very monarch who signed the East India Company into being: Queen Elizabeth I.
Join me as we travel back to the 16thC to one truly warped family. 👑🧵🪡
2 - No one expected the daughter of Henry VIII & Anne Boleyn would ascend the throne--but she did. Her coronation (1558) portrait shows her swathed in cloth of gold--the very same her deceased sister Mary had worn (bit creepy).
Oh, that cloth of gold? £2170 a yard in today's $$.
Apr 12, 2021 • 34 tweets • 17 min read
1 - Welcome to #ThreadTalk & gird your loins! We're talking skivvies, undies, unmentionables, lingerie🩲-- that's right: underwear.
Tonight we'll part the veil & to find what lies beneath. We've got witchcraft, weird myths & plenty of spice. 🔥 🔥 🔥
But first, mummies!
2 - Tradition says Adam & Eve used fig leaves, but the most likely first "underwear" was woven of plant materials or leather. Hence, it's hard to find extant remains.
Ötzi the Iceman, though, who's about 3500 years old, had a very well preserved one. So did the Aztecs, pictured.
Apr 5, 2021 • 32 tweets • 17 min read
1 - Greetings, everyone. It's time for #ThreadTalk!
By popular demand, everything's coming up paisley.
#Paisley is an ancient motif with a Scottish name--to learn more about it, we'll be traveling the globe🌍, visit goats 🐐 & talk shit about the East India Company 🤬.
2 - Paisley's proper name is boteh or buta, but it's also been called "persian pickles," "Welsh pears," "ham hock" pattern, or "mango" just to name a few.
Persian pickles?🥒 Right.
And it's old. You can see it on architecture in Balkh, Afghanistan dating to the 9th C.
Apr 4, 2021 • 6 tweets • 3 min read
Y’all know that the 1850s and 60s are not my jam... BUT. In terms of dresses that look like Easter?
This is late 1868, and you can totally see the 1870s coming in the lines.
Also looks like it’s made of taffy (but it’s taffeta). Met museum.
This one is similar but has more of that “fresh from the jello mold” look. I do like the pleats and the color scheme.
Mar 29, 2021 • 35 tweets • 21 min read
1 - Welcome to #ThreadTalk! Today we're tackling the venerable bead.
Don't be fooled: This. Subject. Is. Huge. 🤯
We're touring the world throug alchemy, biology, archaeology -- and learn how colonialism & slavery figures in.
Featured: Sioux (Teton) woman's dress from 1880.
2 -Like its cousin embroidery, beads are a world heritage art. Beads evolve next to humanity, it seems.
But how beads are treated, valued & traded--and what they're made of--well, that's where things get interesting.
Featured: Helmet - Fang People, late 19th C/early 20th C
Mar 28, 2021 • 4 tweets • 2 min read
Just a very friendly reminder that I am a *fantasy novelist*.
I am not an academic.
I am not a journalist.
I write stories about magic, witches, monsters, and flirting. Often in sumptuous clothing.
I ask a lot of questions and share the answers I find.
I have no control over what goes viral. I want to keep up, but between my life and job and family, I can’t always. I hate that.
I also have ADHD. And depression. And anxiety. Some days Twitter is too much.
I’m totally ok, but just so y’all remember. I do this for free.