What do you get if you cross the ‘Minister for Access to Nature’ with his 10,000 acre private estate near Reading that the public are almost entirely excluded from? Answer: the perfect place for a sunny winter day’s trespass on the hidden estates of @RichardHRBenyon 🧵
We only recently found out that Benyon’s full title was ‘Parliamentary Under Secretary of State (Minister for Rural Affairs, access to nature and Biosecurity)’. So, we decided to visit the Englefield Estate he owns to see what access to nature means in practice
I was joined by the creme-de-la-creme of trespass: @nickhayesillus1 who literally wrote the book on it; @jm0ses who understands the politics of access so well; & @samleesong to sing us folk songs of resistance as we walked. The first gate we came to didn’t bode well for access...
So we hopped over an adjacent wall taking us through woods at the edge of a sumptuous deer park. We spied the towers of one of the biggest houses I’ve ever seen in the distance
But squeezed through railings to avoid intruding too close to the main house and disturbing the privacy of its residents. This took us to the site of a deer park that had previously been a village, cleared by a Benyon of ages past to stop poor people spoiling his view.
We came to a tranquil pond with a stunning oak next to it, with huge roots perfect for sitting in. I climbed the tree whilst we talked together & admired the nature and beauty of the place.
This did not last long. We saw a vehicle stuffed full of tweed clad shooters & this was soon followed by multiple vehicles and game keepers joining us by the tree. When the game keepers realised we would not leave without at least explaining our views...
... a fascinating conversation followed, covering land rights, ecology, conservation, connection & access to nature & the game keeper’s burning dislike of @ChrisGPackham. Whilst we clearly had different views about the countryside, there was laughter & some mutual understanding.
Towards the end, the game keeper asked why we kept bringing up history, when we should concentrate on the here & now. I replied that it was the history of who Benyon’s ancestors were compared to mine that he had the right to use force to remove me from this beautiful nature...
... but the difference now being that unlike what his ancestors did to people like my ancestors, he could no longer hang, shoot or transport me for being on his land & that it was with deep pride & love for my ancestors that I was there, doing what they could not.
Afterwards, we shook hands with the keeper & carried on our way, passing huge historic oaks and sweet chestnuts as we made our way out of the deer park, popping into the church and cutting across another private driveway to take us back to where we had begun.
Time spent with good friends out in nature is always time well spent, but especially when the location itself asks searching questions about what access to & connection with nature means without #righttoroam & how our rights are so strongly dictated by historical land ownership.
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This is the worst “strong support” I’ve ever received.
However, the malevolent uselessness of @EnvAgency is not limited to the recent incident on the Aldersbrook. Over the last 10 years I have been battling, along with hundreds of dedicated local volunteers, to protect & restore the River Roding against all the odds. The Environment Agency has not lifted a finger to help in these actions & indeed has often been a blocker to our work on the river.
Here’s some examples of the “strong support” we’ve received from the Environment Agency over the years… 🧵
The River Roding is one of the worst rubbish polluted rivers in the country. Not only does it flow through many large urban centres, but the action of the tides sucks up rubbish from across the Thames Estuary & drops it on the Roding. In some places, the rubbish is so thick it completely covered river channels like the Aldersbrook. The authorities have not removed rubbish from the river in decades. When I asked the EA if they could remove the rubbish, they said it was “too dangerous” & also forbid volunteers from doing it as well, meaning we had to trespass, climb fences & scale ladders to remove the rubbish ourselves.
Without any permission, funding or assistance from government, I have led volunteers out onto all parts of the lower river & together we have removed thousands of bags of rubbish. At least local councils helped us by taking the rubbish away, whereas the EA had done absolutely nothing, despite the fact most people would assume removing rubbish from rivers is one of its key duties.
The EA has allowed invasive species like Himalayan Balsam to spread out of control, with no plan whatsoever to even contain this damaging plant, let alone eliminate it from our river. Every year that the plant is allowed to spread, the problem gets worse & harder to solve, with the rare marshes along the river now at seriously damaged & risking destruction.
Local volunteers have stepped up to act where they have failed, organising small groups on WhatsApp to take responsibility for different sections of the river & destroy as many of the plants as possible before they set seed. Over this last summer alone, there have been dozens of events, where volunteers have walked & waded along the river to laboriously remove these plants. The EA has offered us no support whatsoever in this massive & important task.
On Thursday night I looked out of my boat & knew immediately that something was wrong on the River Roding. The moon was glimmering off the water in a strange way I hadn’t seen before. I went outside to discover an oil slick streaked across the river & the smell of engine oil in the air.
Here’s what I did about it & what it says about regulatory failure & the role of river guardians 🧵
First, I needed to discover where the oil was coming from, as I knew the Environment Agency (EA) would do nothing otherwise. The trouble is, the oil could be from anywhere miles upstream or even from one of the many tributaries. I messaged our River Roding Trust local guardian groups upstream to see if they could see any oil: they couldn’t, which narrowed it down. By Saturday morning, the oil was still flowing on the main river, so I set off from Ilford to see where it was coming from. I investigated every outfall, until I found where it was coming from- a tributary called Loxford Water, just upstream from my boat.
I explored up Loxford Water, until I found an EA sluice where the oil was collecting. I rang it in to the EA pollution hotline, with an exact grid reference and then…
… nothing! I had heard nothing back by Sunday morning & with a big rain storm on the way threatening to wash even more oil into the Roding, I decided I needed to act.
I looked into buying a boom to hold back the oil, but decided that as time was of the essence, I needed to make do with what I had. So I put on my least fancy 80’s ski suit, cycled two 250 litre barrels to the river on my handlebars & created a boom out of an old bedsheet filled with local reeds.
Getting up close to where the oil was collecting behind debris caught in the sluice, I realised that the spill was more serious than I had thought. The oil was thick & black, & large amounts of it pooled around the sluice. Sure, it wasn’t the Exxon Valdez, but it also wasn’t good to have this much oil in a river a few hundred metres from a major urban centre.
With an hour to go til heavy rain, I got stuck in…
The European Eel migration is one of the most incredible natural events on earth & in Britain we are lucky that our rivers, streams, lakes and ponds are some of the eels' key destinations.
However, the eel population of Britain & Europe has crashed in the last few decades & a scheme to export millions of our precious baby eels to Russia for cash threatens to make things even worse.
Please help to stop this trade by signing the petition below & if you'd like to know more about Britain's eels, why they are in trouble & what we can do to help them, please read and share this thread 🧵
Eels are some of the most fascinating, & also under-appreciated, creatures on earth. Not only have humans never been able to successfully breed eels in captivity, but we have never actually observed their breeding in the wild.
European eels hatch in the Sargasso Sea (in the West Atlantic) and billions of tiny baby eels (called elvers) make their way across the ocean to Europe. There they make their way up estuaries across the continent, until they arrive at the upper rivers, tributaries, streams, ponds & ditches where they will spend their lives as ‘yellow eels’. After 15-20 years in these habitats, the mature eels (known as silver eels) end their life cycle by travelling all the way back down river to cross the ocean back to the Sargasso Sea, where they spawn & die.
The European Eel migration was once so huge that Eels were seen as a vast, inexhaustible resource. Eels we’re caught & eaten in massive numbers & even rents were paid in Eels in medieval times.
However, as human actions & impingement on the environment have increased, Eels have faced a perfect storm of different problems. Barriers like weirs & dams stop elvers reaching their ancestral river grounds & wetland habitats & there are now over 1 million such barriers across Europe, cutting off huge tracts of eel habitat.
Many eels live in marshes, fens & wetlands, which are particularly rich habitats for them- more than three quarters of such wetlands across Europe have now been drained. Thousands of water turbines & pumps in rivers kill & maim large amounts of eels every year. And, whilst they are more robust than other freshwater fish, water pollution & water quality issues have also contributed to eel population decline.
All of these factors have had an impact on eel populations, but there is one final factor that has contributed to their catastrophic decline…
What can you give to a river that needs everything?
This Christmas I decided to give my river the gift of life, in the form of willows trees. I headed out on the River Roding in my canoe, from sunrise to sunset on the shortest day of the year, to see if I could hand harvest & plant 100 willows in a day. Here’s how I got on…
🧵
At 8am, as the sun rose over the towers of Barking, I pushed my canoe out into the river & paddled downstream. Even in those first few minutes, out amongst the calling of the birds & silvery reflections of the sky on the river, I knew this day was as much a gift for myself as the river.
I stopped at a group of willows that I had planted with friends 5 years ago & found a tree that had recently fallen to harvest green willow sticks to plant. The joy of willow is that you can cut branches from existing trees (ideally 1cm to 5cm diameter), push them into wet mud along the river & they will grow into new trees.
I loaded up the canoe & headed downstream with as many willows as I could carry.
Why willow? The Roding where I live suffers from highly unnatural & artificial channel & banks. This, more than almost any other human mistreatment, is incredibly damaging to the river’s ecology. In the centre of Barking where the river is completely metal sheet piled in places, I barely see any life.
Willow hosts one of the largest number of species of any native tree. With the plentiful water & mud beside the Roding, it grows very quickly. Trees I planted with friends 5 years ago are already 20cm in diameter & over 10 metres tall. As these photos show, in some parts of Barking, trees I’ve planted formed some of the only greenery or natural parts of the river channel visible in a sea of concrete, brick & steel; all from a humble stick pushed into the mud!
Perhaps the best thing that willow does is to transform the ecology of the river around it. They catch silt & create naturalised areas in front of sheet piling. Where their branches trail into the water, they catch foliage for wildlife to eat, provide nurseries for fish & give birds like kingfishers places to perch. When I spotted the first otter seen in Barking for 50 years, it was hunting amongst the branches & roots of a willow tree, rather than the bare concrete wall that made up the riverbank nearby.
Creating one of the most remote chapels in Britain
After my recent pilgrimage to Iona, I travelled on to the Island of Gometra just across the water.
On Gometra (which is located off the Island of Ulva, off the Island of Mull), I had the same sense as on Iona that it was a place where the veil between the worlds was thin. The landscape & geography of the island is stunningly beautiful & the most similar to Iona I had seen. The two islands were just across the water from each other & there were even legends of St Columba coming to Gometra to pray. I realised that, in a different version of events, Gometra could have been the cradle of Celtic Christianity & a holy place of pilgrimage in the modern world.
I felt that this place still deserved a sacred space for people of all faiths & none. I began to dream of creating a chapel on the island & how I could make that dream a reality.
I spoke to the owner of where I was staying & they too felt that the island had a holy feel & deserved it’s own chapel. There was also an existing building- an old stone farm building- that would be perfect for it. Luckily it wasn’t being used for anything important; unluckily that meant over the years it had become the dumping place for all manner of things that are hard to get off an isolated island over the years.
Over several days, I moved, sorted, tidied, stacked & cleaned
The building began to become visible as the rubbish pile gradually reduced & I realised that it was going to be a space of simple & rustic beauty.
One of the challenges of creating a remote chapel is logistics: the island is two ferries away from the mainland & the only way in is by boat or a long walk. This meant I could only use things that were already on the island; although I some realised this would add to the creativity & fun of the challenge. As an example, I was disappointed not to find any paint, until I stumbled across the perfect amount of white masonry paint to cover the grey part of the walls at the back of a workshop. With the basics of the room done, it was time to fit it out as best I could with what I could find…
I had heard of the holy island of Iona as a sacred place where the veil between heaven & earth is said to be thin. On a visit to the Western Isles, I decided to see for myself this tiny island where St Columba founded a Celtic Christian Abbey on the edge on the edge of the known world in the year 563🧵
I arrived on the island on the last ferry of the day, carrying just one other person. I had a slight trepidation, as it was getting late, I didn’t have anywhere to stay & had no plans except to walk, be in nature and wallow in the mysticism & history of the place.
I was surprised by how visually prominent Iona Abbey was as we approached the island: in glorious isolation in its grassy setting between the blue bands of sea & sky.
At the quay I found a map of the island with a ‘hermit’s cell’ marked in the hills above the Abbey, which k immediately knew would be my sleeping place for the night. I found the circle of stones, where holy men would live in glorious isolation, laid out my sleeping mat & bag and went to sleep as the sun set.
I awoke in the morning, glad that the rain during the night had been light & walked back to the Abbey, arriving just in time to hear the bells summoning the faithful to prayer, as they have done on this exact spot for over 1,400 years.
Entering the Abbey, I was struck by a feeling of familiarity & awe that I couldn’t at first place. Then I realised why that was: I had been in many ruins of ancient abbeys before, but never one that had been reconstructed (as Iona was at the turn of the 20th century) & hosted an active religious community & services. It felt like steeping back in time before the abolition of the monasteries