Kyiv remains in Ukrainian hands, but was shelled overnight in the Svyiatoshynsky and Shevchenkivsky districts.
Meanwhile Mariupol has been shelled from the Sea of Azov…
This invasion turns a month old tomorrow…
Mariupol is still being contested by Ukrainian and Russian military forces…
Western intel had predicted it would fall by now…
Ukrainian officials have rejected Russian calls for surrender
Zelenskyy on Mariupol: 100k “live in the city in inhuman conditions, in complete blockade, without food, without water, without medicines and under constant shelling”
Humanitarian corridors “frustrated by Russian occupiers, shelling or deliberate terror”
Everywhere we look there are massive trucks headed east, filled with aid, fuel and — I imagine —weapons.
More trucks than I have ever seen.
Some look brand new.
Over the last four weeks martial law has made it nearly impossible to get legal alcohol in Ukraine… last night this was lifted in Vinnytsia, which I was traveling through
The mood was buoyant early in the evening.
Oleg was bartending in this basement bar in the city center… three choices: Jäegermeister, a local lager or a kind of berry cider
As you can see there’s nothing on the shelves
It was wonderful to hear the laughter and the vibes of a joyful bar.
Want to get a sense of it?
Take a listen to some audio I recorded of what it sounded like:
As we sat there, some Ukrainians overheard us speaking English and asked us what we were doing in their city
Tanya grew up in Vinnytsia, but has Russian ancestry.
“My blood is Russian but my soul is Ukrainian. My friends are all in the war… in Kyiv. In Kherson. In Mykolaiv.”
This is Artyom, who also has Russian heritage.
“Our people over there are killing our people over here. And for what? For Putin? I hope that the war ends soon. The war is shit.”
People were in a good mood at first. They were clinking glasses and shouting “glory to Ukraine” amidst the sort of frenzied chatter you always hear in bars. I’ll repeat: it was so good to hear the laughter
I have still not been able to find pho in the last month but I did see a sticker here indicating at least that people who know about pho have been here
It was in this dimly lit basement bar, which smelled like whisky but had none for sale, that I learned I shared a name with Timati, a pro-Putin rapper that everyone there hated
Arytom and I spoke a little longer. His wife and child are out of the country but he has a critical IT job and isn’t allowed to leave.
A long sigh. He takes a long swig of cider. He says he doesn’t want to fight in the war.
“This war will end but my humanity won’t,” he said.
He spoke some English but for some of the more meaningful stuff we spoke through Google Translate.
Take a read:
It turns out he has already seen combat. “My skill is for sniper,” he said. With a dragunov rifle.
He began listing his friends who had been killed. His classmates.
Andrey in Donbas.
Alexey, in Kyiv.
Bogdan, in Donbas.
A deep sigh. And then a long gulp of cider made from berries.
Artyom was in Donbas. He describes seeing people without legs…
And he remembers this friend who was a teenager… 18 years old… who had his face blown off by shrapnel.
His friend was laying without his eyes…
Arytom gave him morphine after morphine dose in the initial minutes.
He is haunted by this guy saying, “am I going to be alright? I have a girlfriend.”
He started to get choked up.
“This war is shit,” he says.
He remembers an officer patting him on the back and saying “why don’t you take care of this,” and walking away.
His friend survived for two days without a face before dying at the age of 18.
We walked home in silence in the greyness of a city at war, trying to get back before curfew
Today’s dog of war is this stray pup who is sleeping in front of the WOG gas station… then marches around like he owns the place
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Kyiv remains in Ukrainian hands, but the southern port city of Mariupol is in a dire situation.
Ukrainian officials say Russia's military bombed an art school sheltering ~400 people, adding to already unbearable and deteriorating conditions in the city
This is the second bombing of a building where civilians have taken shelter as the Russians encircled the city
Thousands have died in the city, as food/water/electricity has dried up
Putin held a stadium rally last night; while Zelenskyy gave a one-on-one appeal to the camera...
Zelenskyy said 180,000 have been rescued by humanitarian corridors, including thousands from embattled Mariupol...
Mariupol is a southern city enduring widespread suffering due to encirclement, bombardment and dwindling supplies of food/water.
Zelensky said 9K people evacuated in last day.
I spoke to a soldier today from Mariupol. He hadn't spoken to his family since March 3.
Zelenskyy: 180K have been rescued fr/cities under Russian attack via humanitarian corridors (7 of which are currently active)
“The initial plan of the Russian military to seize our state failed,” he said, so they have nothing else but “cruel and erroneous tactics to exhaust us."