even in Kyoto-
hearing the cuckoo's cry-
I long for Kyoto
京にても 京なつかしや ほととぎす
-Matsuo Bashō (松尾芭蕉 1644–1694).
Around the New Year I like to complete a small pilgrimage, not particularly well known, on a mountain close to my house.
Are you interested in undertaking the Shikoku Pilgrimage (四国遍路), but find yourself without any real time to do so?🤔
Not to worry...close to our Camellia Garden Teahouse there is a way to complete the pilgrimage without ever leaving Kyōto🙌 #Kyoto#Japan#京都#四国遍路
Snaking up and down the slopes of Jyōju-san (成就山), a mountain that rises behind Ninna-ji (仁和寺), is a tiny version of the Shikoku Pilgrimage.
Kūkai (空海 774-835), founder of Shingon Buddhism (真言宗), is alleged to have first created the circuit of 88 temples on Shikoku👣
Abbot Sainin of Ninna-ji (済仁/仁和寺) created the 'Omuro 88 Temple Pilgrimage' (御室八十八ヶ所霊場) for those who could not manage the real Shikoku Pilgrimage (四国遍路).
Begun in 1829, it was completed 3 years later.
Sainin charged the temple custodian (and court physician) Hisatomi Tootōmi-no-kami Fumitsura (久富遠江守文連 1761-1846) with undertaking the Shikoku Pilgrimage in order to collect sand (四国霊場の土) from each of the 88 temples.
This sand was placed in 88 small halls on Mt Jyōju.
For a long time there weren't sufficient funds to undo the damage caused by typhoons over the years, but recently Ninna-ji is working extra hard to revitalize the route.
It may seem odd to construct a miniature Shikoku Henro (四国遍路) behind Ninna-ji (仁和寺), but the temple has a long connection with the pilgrimage.
From Edo times it became popular to pray for safety at Ninna-ji before undergoing the actual pilgrimage. #Japan#京都#Omuro
Together Ninna-ji (仁和寺), Tō-ji (東寺) & Jinkō-in (神光院) make up the 'San-Kōbō Meguri' (三弘法巡り), a pilgrimage to 3 statues of Kōbō Daishi (弘法大師), also known as 'Yakuyoke Daishi' (厄除大師 'Calamity Dispelling Master').
People pray for good luck, health and protection.
'San-Kōbō Meguri' is held on the 21st of each month (in remembrance of Kūkai's 空海 death in 835), with pilgrims journeying to the 3 temples.
A special pilgrimage called 'San-Kōbō Mōde' (三弘法詣) is held on January 3rd in order to pray for health and safety in the upcoming year.
The original 'San-Kōbō Meguri' pilgrimage began in Edo times. Abolished in the anti-Buddhist climate of 1868, it was resurrected in 2012.
Pilgrims would pray at the 3 temples before undertaking the Shikoku Pilgrimage (四国遍路).
🤕SCARS OF HISTORY⚔️
Every now and then, when wandering around the city, you can actually see historical moments captured in time.
A good example of this are the sword marks on Sanjō Bridge's balustrade caps. These were from the 'Noticeboard Incident' of September 12th 1866.
In the summer of 1866 an official signboard was erected by Sanjō Bridge, calling Chōshū Domain (長州藩) an enemy of the imperial court.
On September 10th, after anti-shōgunate rebels tore the sign down for a second time, the government ordered the Shinsengumi to guard the bridge.
At midnight on September 12th (October 20th - modern calendar), 8 men from Tosa Domain (土佐藩) arrived to destroy the noticeboard but were surprised by 34 Shinsengumi soldiers!
The Tosa ringleader, Fujisaki Kichigorō (藤崎吉五郎 1845-66), was killed, but 5 of his men escaped.
🐰🎑MOON MORSELS🥮🥰
When the Harvest Moon (お月見) and Feast of Chrysanthemums (菊の節句) arrive together, you know plates will be groaning and bellies will be full🙌
one for the dog
one for the crow...
rice cakes
犬の餅烏が餅もつかれけり
-Issa (小林一茶).
Trans. Lanoue. #京都
Nao-san tucks in to Kameya Yoshinaga's (亀屋良長 @yoshimura0303) 'hane-usagi' (はねうさぎ).
Break open the cute moon rabbit and add hot water to create delicious oshiruko (お汁粉), a sweet bean soup.
Each rabbit comes with a random kohaku (琥珀) moon. The phase of the moon-sweet determines your fortune...a full moon represents the best luck you can have.
Nao-san got...🥁...a full moon!🎉
A thread all about kohaku and other types of sweets⬇️
Just beside our Camellia Garden teahouse runs Kinukake-no-michi (きぬかけの路 the 'Silk-draped Path'), a 2km stretch of road that joins the UNESCO World Heritage sites of Kinkaku-ji (金閣寺 The Golden Pavilion), Ryōan-ji (龍安寺) and Ninnai-ji (仁和寺).
An iconic golden pavilion (restored after a novice burnt the original down in 1950), the world's most famous Zen garden, & a former imperial palace are just some of the most well-known attractions to be enjoyed along Kinukake-no-michi.
But always venture off the beaten track!😉
But what does the road have to do with draped silk?
Well, Kinukake-no-michi (きぬかけの路) winds through the foothills of Mt. Kinugasa (衣笠山), known also as Mt. Kinukake (絹笠山).
The mountain is named after an incident involving Emperor Uda (宇多天皇). #Kyoto#Japan#衣笠山
In its traditional form, mitarashi dango is made up of 5 small rice dumplings...skewered, grilled, and served with a sweet soy sauce glaze.
Legend has it that the inspiration for the snack came from a miraculous incident involving Emperor Go-Daigo (後醍醐天皇 1288-1339). #Japan
During one of Go-Daigo's outings to Shimogamo-jinja, 5 bubbles appeared in the water as he purified his hands.
Interpreted as the human body (五体 - head, arms and legs), it was taken as a fortuitous sign.
The emperor offered 5 rice dumplings (4 big & 1 small) to the shrine gods.
👣🗾SCATTERING EARTH🤏⛰️
For 25 years Kurita Kōichi (栗田宏一) has walked the length and breadth of Japan, gathering small samples of soil from each settlement (whether hamlet, village, town or city) he passes through.
At Hōnen-in (法然院) he made a dedication of his life's work.
Kurita's dedication was inspired by the temple's 'sange' (散華), a ritual offering of flowers made early each morning. 25 flowers (usually camellia) are dedicated to a statue of Amida. The flowers represent the 25 bodhisattva who help Amida take the souls of the dead to paradise.
Hōnen-in is no stranger to using earth and sand as a form of offering.
Upon entering the temple visitors pass through the 'Byakusadan' (白砂壇), 2 terraces of white sand (roughly 7m long, 3m wide and 10cm high).
Said to symbolize water, the sand purifies the body and soul. #京都