Good morning from @issegyptomania #OnwardsUpwards2022 first up with a keynote from Jasmine Day on the Czech Neiger Brothers’ Egyptian Revival Jewellery, which she collects. 
A tragic end for the brothers at Auchwitz - they have no grave - but as Jasmine says, their jewellery is now their memorial. It has become very popular with collectors, now much more expensive than the 1990s. #OnwardsUpwards2022
High end pieces from late Victorian/art nouveau period likely to have influenced the development of the Neiger style. Then high end designs in the art deco period from Cartier & others would have also influenced design (I’ll be talking about Cartier tomorrow). #OnwardsUpwards2022
The Neiger glass beads were designed to look old & weathered but a range of colour washes. They also used some uranium glass & materials such as coral & produced pins with metal and enamel. More ‘museum-like’ than authentically Egyptian. #OnwardsUpwards2022
Some designs framed a set of Egyptian ideas, others appeared to be inspired by museum items. Others modelled on ideas of the time about portraiture. #OnwardsUpwards2022
Quite a few of the designs were inaccurate in terms of the hieroglyphs chosen. It was at the time of the discovery of #Tutankhamun100 that the name of the pharaoh began to be copied correctly. #OnwardsUpwards2022
Different stringers seem to have used different combinations. Some generic spacer beads in between Egyptian themed ones. You can connect Neiger designs with certain types of bead design. #OnwardsUpwards2022
Jasmine notes the detail of the seated pharaoh looked to have been copied from somewhere. A Lepsius plate featured in the Illustrated London news after the discovery seems to have been the source. #OnwardsUpwards2022
Here in context at the tomb of Amenhotep recently - now very damaged. #OnwardsUpwards2022
Some designs look to be exact copies of Burton’s photographs of the ‘hero’ pieces. The standing statue even has the cloth as found before it was moved & as captured by Burton on discovery. #Tutankhamun100 #OnwardsUpwards2022
Some of the upcoming @issegyptomania events looks fabulous with @ChrisElliott8 @EllieCDobson @TessBaber @gothicbookworm @k8shep @JoyceTyldesley & others. #OnwardsUpwards2022
This afternoon’s @issegyptomania #OnwardsUpwards2022 is on Egyptian Revival & Art with a 1st talk from @lotnumber249 & a canter through Victorian Egyptomania in architecture. Connection to power/awe/fear? Use in industrial buildings. Wasn’t praised by everyone - some caricatures.
We look at Bonomi Jr, son of well known architect Bonomi Sr who also focused on Egyptian Revival designs. He was surrounded by people with an interest in Egypt especially Sir John Soane & Angelica Kauffman #OnwardsUpwards2022
Kauffman talked openly about her use of paint made from ground up mummy & its effect on her art. #onwardsupwards2022
Lots of Bonomi Jr based in experience in Egypt as well as technical methods. #onwardsupwards2022
Looking at Marshall’s Mill Leeds - based on the temple at Edfu & pillars 1,3,4,6 - close match though some artistic licence. #onwardsupwards2022
Also Crystal Palace - Bonomi described by Jones as chief architect/high priest of the EgyptianHall there. #onwardsupwards2022
Next Up Colour & Owen Jones by @maddiehewitson of @ashmoleanmuseum on his belief in Egyptian polychromy. Egyptian explorations had a connection to changing biblical narratives which began to include stories connected to sites & finds in Egypt. #onwardsupwards2022
Jones’s early work: neo-gothic biblical volumes of 1840s & Pugin’s influence. By 1860s shift to Egypt’s & Orientalist inspiration in his work. Borders were of equal importance to the imagery. Enclosed & housed scenes within. Story of Joseph & Egypt connection. #onwardsupwards2022
Others like Holman Hunt also inspired & connected art to religious/moral message. #onwardsupwards2022
There’s a papyrus in @britishmuseum with a very similar story to the brothers & Potiphar. Several painters influenced by the artefacts there to create biblical & other scenes. Poynter & Alma Tadema. Jones’s project about reconstruction & recreation of colour. #onwardsupwards2022
Joseph stays in Egypt & lives to 110 - the perfect life length according to Egyptian thinking. Owen’s Egypt-infused biblical narrative & illustrations. Bible as a historical narrative rooted in ancient world and its colours. #onwardsupwards2022
I’ll be talking a bit about Jones tomorrow & his influence on Cartier’s designs. #OnwardsUpwards2022
Next this afternoon is Anastasija Golijewskaja on Egyptomania in Belarus #onwardsupwards2022
Intriguing monument that has a high up secret chamber that might have been used in rituals. Now protected in law. #OnwardsUpwards2022
A second plastered example is from 1840 - restored 2015 thanks to anonymous donor, after it was protected by law. #onwardsupwards2022
Other examples in catholic cemeteries
Other examples in catholic cemeteries
A brick pyramid at Podgornaya - though it has been damaged by treasure hunters.
Finally a tombstone in Pruzhany - combination of Egyptian & Christian symbols. Sheaf of wheat - life/Eucharist. Egypt an agrarian country. Nemes Headcloth. Not a sphinx or pharaoh but evident Egyptian association. Question about where influence came from. #OnwardsUpwards2022
Some fascinating connections - one in France, but also there were pyramids in Poland & Ukraine. #OnwardsUpwards2022
Some of Anastasija’s conclusions. #OnwardsUpwards2022
Next up in @issegyptomania second session this afternoon on consuming ancient Egypt is @art_egyptology on Egyptomania in medical history. Nick is based at the @OldOpTheatre where @JohnJJohnston performed a Victorian ‘mummy unrolling’ recently. #onwardsupwards2022
Nick talks about some of the Egyptianising connections with the work of apothecaries in addition to their use of mummiya. Egyptian ointment was popular & used for hundreds of years. Why is it ‘Egyptian’? Seems a tenuous connection to its colour. #onwardsupwards2022
There was also ‘Egyptian Salve’ which again gave no reason for the Egyptian connection. #OnwardsUpwards2022
It’s early 20th C when we start to see some more direct connections to Egyptian images & themes. Latest versions make connection to mystery & magic. #OnwardsUpwards2022
Next this session SJ Wolfe on the use of mummy wrappings in the making of paper in America mummymania.omeka.net & egyptologyforum.org/EMINA/ #OnwardsUpwards2022
A Newspaper in Connecticut said in print that it was made from material taken from Egyptian tombs. Similarly in Maine - a Boston rag merchant Warren bought a paper manufacturing business. The process, connected to mummy wrappings, blamed for cholera epidemics. #OnwardsUpwards2022
Mummy linen was also used for the making of paper collars. There was an industry in Alexandria where the mummies were stripped & linen removed and shipped to America. The bodies were ground up for fertiliser. #OnwardsUpwards2022
People who chewed paper were warned not to chew certain products due to their origin 😳 #OnwardsUpwards2022
Very few records remain. We need to rely on the printed word in the newspapers of the time describing their origin. #OnwardsUpwards2022
Next this afternoon is @MakeupMuseum on Egyptomania in make up. Impact of Theda Bara even before the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb. #OnwardsUpwards2022
Impact of Elizabeth Taylor’s makeup & idea of Cleopatra on make up styles.
Initially v connected to white women wanting a particular look.
Later a focus on black women reclaiming some iconic Ancient Egyptian characters & association with make up and beauty
Long association of Egypt with makeup - especially in early 20thC. Encouraging associations of women with ideas of ancient beauty & resurrection.
Early 20th C adverts & ideas translate through to now & collaboration betweenBritish Museum & cosmetic companies for instance.
Tie ins with certain moments eg film
Also connection to the idea of hidden beauty knowledge…
Association of names & colour
Also associated with creativity & artistry
Idea of creation of an idol through make up
Reconnection of ideas of make up & associations with Ancient Egypt for black communities
Lots of interesting ideas about cultural appropriation & concepts of beauty. Egypt - an enduring & continuing theme in make up. #onwardsupwards2022
Final session today on Portuguese Egyptian Reception and fashion. #OnwardsUpwards2022
Two phases - after Napoleon’s expedition and after the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb.
A canter though some of the post-Napoleonic influences in style. Description of Egypt, Belzoni’s exhibition, the Rosetta Stone, the obelisk to Paris…
Paris Exposition, Suez, Aida, 20thC advertising…
Post Napoleon - identified 3 types of Egyptian style… 1. evident presence of symbols
Scarabs, hieroglyphs
Sphinx, ‘Egyptian head’
The lotus flower & other less usual themes
Second category - affirmed presence but not specific symbolism - names or references…
Most common - Egyptian embroideries
Third type - identified by an expression but not obviously Egyptian. Belts, ribbons, position of waist etc…
From 1922 we see a similar pattern.
Then there are themes that are inspired by particular ideas or characters such as Cleopatra
Then there is colour association
Discovery of tomb of Tutankhamun is often taken as a milestone in fashion & Egyptomania but there was so much that went before that needs examining. By 1922, Egyptian-inspired fashion had already moved through various phases & it was not the only culture to inspire fashion.
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