Beginning #MPtrail with this pic - taken in #Chhatarpur district of Madhya Pradesh. This is at a Chandella temple site of the greatest antiquity, a site whose temples pre-date those of #Khajuraho. This pic shows the state of heritage in our country. More on this site tomorrow.
#MPtrail: This pic was taken from the top of a Chandella water reservoir's stone embankment. The green area on the left was once a large water body. At the far end of the reservoir is a group of temples which date to the 9th century CE. I'll take you there over the weekend.
#MPtrail: A fragile set of temples which, in my view, showcase two varying streams of temple architecture. In Vyas Bhadora, a small village in MP's Chhatarpur dist. Managed by the state archaeological dept. Over a dozen temples built nxt to a Chandella irrigation reservoir.
#MPtrail: Vyas-Bhadora has nearly a dozen temples. Among them are these Chandella temples, dated to the 9th century, making them older than the ones at #Khajuraho, which lies 55 kms south of this location. The temples were restored over a decade ago and are in a fragile state.
#MPtrail: Sculpted beings in the doorway of a 9th century Chandella temple at Vyas-Bhadora, #Chhatrpur.
#Mptrail: The second style of temple architecture at Vyas-Bhadora is typified by this temple. Mentioned in records by the team that restored the temple as a Yogini shrine. The Yogini statues within were removed during restoration to a museum leaving only empty niches behind.
#MPtrail: Found this Brit era building in a vil called Laxmipur, #Panna. Structure was once renovated to become an agri-science study centre but abandoned for reasons unknown. Ideal for a haunted house movie setting.
#MPTrail: Group of temples surrounding a stepped tank called Bhim Kund, dating back to 13th-14th century CE; on a ledge of a hill in #Dhubela, #Chhatarpur dist. The temples probably predate the Bundela rule in this region.
#MPtrail: The largest of the Yogini temples at Vyas-Bhadora.
#MPtrail: Gateway of a ruined #Jain temple, inside the fortified hilltop complex at Budhi #Chanderi, Ashok Nagar dist. Imagine what the complete structure would have looked like!
#MPtrail: The setting and iconography of the Bajramath temple at #Gyaraspur, #Vidisha dist. 10th century CE.
#MPTrail: On World Heritage Day, my story of Vyas Bhadora now makes it to the columns of @TOIBhopalNews. Perhaps the authorities will pay a little more attn to such sites.
@TOIBhopalNews Ajaipal-ka-talao, inside the fort at Ajaigarh. Considered by some as a place of pilgrimage, people still come here and pick up a stone from its banks and carry it back with them. Extensive temple remains found around the talao, indicating the existence of a now-lost temple here.
@TOIBhopalNews Distant view of the complex called Ajaigarh palace, taken from the fort at Ajaigarh. This structure may have now been acquired by a large Hotel chain.
@TOIBhopalNews My fav memory of Ajaigarh fort is of this massive dancing Ganesha, complete with anklets, hewn into rock. Just inside the main entrance to the fort.
@TOIBhopalNews#MPtrail: Ajaigarh, #Panna: Broken #Jain idols, incl one that is 9-10 ft tall. In a stone shed. Which temple did they come frm? Which period? While govt agencies expend money on lighting up monuments in large cities & politicians chase disputed sites, such sites lie vulnerable.
@TOIBhopalNews#MPtrail: One of the best depictions of the Saptamatrikas I have seen, complete with Ganesha & (possibly) Virbhadra flanking them. Taken at the tiny (mostly open air) state arch. dept. museum in #Ashapuri, #Raisen. Dated to abt 10th century CE. Perhaps an apt pic for Chaturthi.
@TOIBhopalNews#MPtrail: On the road to #Ashapuri, #Raisen - With the state experiencing its highest level of monsoon rain in nearly 6 decades, ponds and streams have come alive. The colours of nature in full glory. Sadly, roads made by man have ceased to exist.
@TOIBhopalNews#MPtrail: Temple remains in #Ashapuri, #Raisen. Being swallowed by vegetation. In a country where heritage sites are fighting an existential battle, should the ltd budget be used for night illumination of some sites? A wider national debate is reqd.
@TOIBhopalNews#MPtrail: Last pics from #Ashapuri, #Raisen, come from the tiny museum. A feature of the temple architecture here seems to have been four sided columns, each side of which depicted one of Vishnu's incarnations. Just imagine the art of the original shrine.
A yr ago, in a #Bhopal museum, was struck by the picture of a pillared structure. At first glance it looked like something from Greece. Except that the caption read 'Bihar'. A structure frm Bihar in museum in MP? Turns out, there is a village called Bihar in MP's Rajgarh dist.
Intent on finding this structure, I travelled to Bihar village. Here's a picture of the structure called the 'Solah-khamba' though it has only 14 pillars. A magnificent pavilion which was perhaps part of a temple. More abt this & other aspects of Bihar tonight.
More pics from Bihar village, #Rajgarh, #MPtrail. Of a dargah in front of the ruined pavilion. With a tree growing right through its middle. Its lower levels indicate where the building material may have come from.
#MPtrail: This time last year - sharing a few pics from the Birla Museum, #Bhopal. A rare sight, a depiction of a Maheshwari Trimurti, 10th century CE, from Hinglajgarh, #Mandsaur
#MPtrail: This time last yr, from the Birla Museum, #Bhopal: a magnificent depiction of Chaturbhuj #Vishnu. 10th century CE, from #Ashapuri, #Raisen. Look at this and imagine the shrine it came from.
#MPtrail: From the Birla Museum, #Bhopal: a depiction of Brahma, from Varahkhedi, Raisen. 10th-11th century CE. Varahkhedi is now called Barkheda. A site there has revealed a human skeleton dated to the 2nd millennium BCE. A new destination added to my list.
#MPtrail continues with a new #HiddenHeritage story in @TOIBhopalNews today. On the Sankaji hi chhatri, near #Bihar, #Rajgarh. Date estimated at 16th-17th century CE, though to me it seemed later. Inputs welcome.
The Sankaji ki chhatri, #Rajgarh, has over a hundred carved panels at its base. Here are four of them.
#MPTrail: The latest #HiddenHeritage story in @TOIBhopalNews on a pillared structure in #Bihar vil, #Rajgarh. Spotted it first in a pic & was amazed at its likeness to a Greek structure. Part of a lost temple complex. In front is a dargah which completes the story.
Been asked what fascinates me abt #Chanderi. More than the fort, baolis, tombs & mosques, Jain rock cut sites & ancient rock art, perhaps what draws me here is the fact that heritage is everywhere in Chanderi. Like this grp of lost temples at Sitamarhi
Spotted in a field outside #Chanderi. Was this structure a shrine or was it part of a walled complex housing a now-lost shrine? It has fragments of icons kept within which probably came from another structure.
Some yrs ago, while wandering through the area outside #Chanderi, bumped into a sadhu. This person didn't say a word, just kept pointing in a certain direction and off I went...
Beginning a thread on some less-known temples of #Gujarat. These pics are of a grp of 7th century CE temples, Maitraka dynasty, Bhanasara vil, #Junagarh. Lie a short drive frm the coast, on the road that connects #Mangrol to #Porbandar.
A giant stepwell, with four entrances, outskirts of Chobari vil, #Surendranagar, #Gujarat. But perhaps more shrine than stepwell, going by its ornate iconography, including a 12-13th century CE Shesasayi Vishnu. A story I did on this once: timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/ahmedabad…
At Miyani vil, close to #Porbandar, a medieval gateway leads to two 13th century CE temples. One of these, called the Neelkanth Mahadev, remains in worship, despite being in bad shape. #Gujarat
Rajgir, #Bihar, once the capital of a powerful kingdom - a kingdom that grew into an empire straddling much of the subcontinent. Today, it is a second-rate town even in its state. But a town dotted with heritage, such as this stupa dated to the 4th-5th centuries BCE.
A pity that the heritage of #Ragjir, #Bihar has been allowed to gently decay sans restoration. This is the shrine of Mani Naga, dated to 4th-6th centuries CE, Gupta period. Now called Maniyar Math, its focal point is a stupa-like circular structure with a hollow core.
Structure called Jarasandh-ka-akhara, #Rajgir, #Bihar. Date unknown. A feature common to many structures here is an elevated platform. There is a site called Jarasandh-ka-teela, in Haryana, a partially excavated stupa site. Not sure of the latter's connection to Jarasandh though.
#Karnatakatrail: Dusk on a Dec evening found me exploring the Bahmani tomb complex at a village called Holkonda, north of Gulbarga. Structures here being swallowed by the vegetation.
#Karnatakatrail: The fort at Gulbarga, being gradually swallowed by vegetation. Rusting cannons, crumbling walls. A difficult task for the resource-strapped ASI.
#Karnatakatrail: Unlike neighbouring #Bijapur where stepwells, pleasure pavilions have survived, Gulbarga is dotted with tombs, which are literally everywhere. Like ghosts of a forgotten past! This huge structure looms up in a residential area called Santraswadi.
#Chanderifauna: Some yrs ago, on a cold Dec morning in #Chanderi - my fav heritage destination - I was woken by a persistent knocking on the window. It turned out to be this bird, shot through the frosted glass. Perhaps it was urging me to get up and begin exploring.
@MPTourism#Chanderifauna: Spotted this bird - a woodpecker I think - perched nr #Chanderi fort, lost in thought. Was black & white ever as striking as this?
@MPTourism#Chanderifauna: Butterflies aren't always perfect, some are frayed, like this one I spotted in the #Jain temple complex in Budhi Chanderi.
An interesting recent addition to the collection, a book that plunges into the historical linkages of a mammoth epic. The connections are perhaps easier to make as I have visited most of the excavated sites mentioned, esp Kaushambi.
More recent additions, these from the world book fair, in Delhi. A massive 3-volume listing of #hiddenheritage monuments in #Odisha. Amazed that the govt's publications division was giving this set away at a throwaway price.
More from the book fair: the memoirs of Britain's best known WW II commander and a book on personal anecdotes from the war.