Arjun Kumar Profile picture
Dec 28, 2018 37 tweets 36 min read Read on X
Beginning #MPtrail with this pic - taken in #Chhatarpur district of Madhya Pradesh. This is at a Chandella temple site of the greatest antiquity, a site whose temples pre-date those of #Khajuraho. This pic shows the state of heritage in our country. More on this site tomorrow. Image
#MPtrail: This pic was taken from the top of a Chandella water reservoir's stone embankment. The green area on the left was once a large water body. At the far end of the reservoir is a group of temples which date to the 9th century CE. I'll take you there over the weekend. Image
#MPtrail: A fragile set of temples which, in my view, showcase two varying streams of temple architecture. In Vyas Bhadora, a small village in MP's Chhatarpur dist. Managed by the state archaeological dept. Over a dozen temples built nxt to a Chandella irrigation reservoir. Image
#MPtrail: Vyas-Bhadora has nearly a dozen temples. Among them are these Chandella temples, dated to the 9th century, making them older than the ones at #Khajuraho, which lies 55 kms south of this location. The temples were restored over a decade ago and are in a fragile state. Image
#MPtrail: Sculpted beings in the doorway of a 9th century Chandella temple at Vyas-Bhadora, #Chhatrpur. ImageImageImage
#Mptrail: The second style of temple architecture at Vyas-Bhadora is typified by this temple. Mentioned in records by the team that restored the temple as a Yogini shrine. The Yogini statues within were removed during restoration to a museum leaving only empty niches behind. ImageImage
#MPtrail: Found this Brit era building in a vil called Laxmipur, #Panna. Structure was once renovated to become an agri-science study centre but abandoned for reasons unknown. Ideal for a haunted house movie setting. ImageImage
#MPTrail: Group of temples surrounding a stepped tank called Bhim Kund, dating back to 13th-14th century CE; on a ledge of a hill in #Dhubela, #Chhatarpur dist. The temples probably predate the Bundela rule in this region. ImageImage
#MPtrail: The largest of the Yogini temples at Vyas-Bhadora. Image
#MPtrail: Gateway of a ruined #Jain temple, inside the fortified hilltop complex at Budhi #Chanderi, Ashok Nagar dist. Imagine what the complete structure would have looked like! Image
#MPtrail: The setting and iconography of the Bajramath temple at #Gyaraspur, #Vidisha dist. 10th century CE. ImageImageImageImage
#MPTrail: On World Heritage Day, my story of Vyas Bhadora now makes it to the columns of @TOIBhopalNews. Perhaps the authorities will pay a little more attn to such sites. Image
@TOIBhopalNews Ajaipal-ka-talao, inside the fort at Ajaigarh. Considered by some as a place of pilgrimage, people still come here and pick up a stone from its banks and carry it back with them. Extensive temple remains found around the talao, indicating the existence of a now-lost temple here. ImageImageImageImage
@TOIBhopalNews Distant view of the complex called Ajaigarh palace, taken from the fort at Ajaigarh. This structure may have now been acquired by a large Hotel chain. Image
@TOIBhopalNews My fav memory of Ajaigarh fort is of this massive dancing Ganesha, complete with anklets, hewn into rock. Just inside the main entrance to the fort. Image
@TOIBhopalNews #MPtrail: Ajaigarh, #Panna: Broken #Jain idols, incl one that is 9-10 ft tall. In a stone shed. Which temple did they come frm? Which period? While govt agencies expend money on lighting up monuments in large cities & politicians chase disputed sites, such sites lie vulnerable. ImageImage
@TOIBhopalNews #MPtrail: One of the best depictions of the Saptamatrikas I have seen, complete with Ganesha & (possibly) Virbhadra flanking them. Taken at the tiny (mostly open air) state arch. dept. museum in #Ashapuri, #Raisen. Dated to abt 10th century CE. Perhaps an apt pic for Chaturthi. ImageImage
@TOIBhopalNews #MPtrail: On the road to #Ashapuri, #Raisen - With the state experiencing its highest level of monsoon rain in nearly 6 decades, ponds and streams have come alive. The colours of nature in full glory. Sadly, roads made by man have ceased to exist. ImageImage
@TOIBhopalNews #MPtrail: Temple remains in #Ashapuri, #Raisen. Being swallowed by vegetation. In a country where heritage sites are fighting an existential battle, should the ltd budget be used for night illumination of some sites? A wider national debate is reqd. ImageImageImageImage
@TOIBhopalNews #MPtrail: More from #Ashapuri, #Raisen - a sculpted temple pillar, remains of a linga and temple detailing. ImageImageImageImage
@TOIBhopalNews #MPtrail: Last pics from #Ashapuri, #Raisen, come from the tiny museum. A feature of the temple architecture here seems to have been four sided columns, each side of which depicted one of Vishnu's incarnations. Just imagine the art of the original shrine. ImageImageImage
@TOIBhopalNews #MPtrail: Re-started the #Hiddenheritage column in @TOIBhopalNews today with this story on #Mitaoli's Yogini temple. #Morena. Image
@TOIBhopalNews #MPtrail: A story I had done on Mitaoli back in 2007, a time when the approach track had more craters than surface. With a link to today's story: timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/bhopal/ma… Image
A yr ago, in a #Bhopal museum, was struck by the picture of a pillared structure. At first glance it looked like something from Greece. Except that the caption read 'Bihar'. A structure frm Bihar in museum in MP? Turns out, there is a village called Bihar in MP's Rajgarh dist.
Intent on finding this structure, I travelled to Bihar village. Here's a picture of the structure called the 'Solah-khamba' though it has only 14 pillars. A magnificent pavilion which was perhaps part of a temple. More abt this & other aspects of Bihar tonight. ImageImage
More pics from Bihar village, #Rajgarh, #MPtrail. Of a dargah in front of the ruined pavilion. With a tree growing right through its middle. Its lower levels indicate where the building material may have come from. ImageImageImage
#MPtrail: This time last year - sharing a few pics from the Birla Museum, #Bhopal. A rare sight, a depiction of a Maheshwari Trimurti, 10th century CE, from Hinglajgarh, #Mandsaur Image
#MPtrail: This time last yr, from the Birla Museum, #Bhopal: a magnificent depiction of Chaturbhuj #Vishnu. 10th century CE, from #Ashapuri, #Raisen. Look at this and imagine the shrine it came from. ImageImage
#MPtrail: From the Birla Museum, #Bhopal: a depiction of Brahma, from Varahkhedi, Raisen. 10th-11th century CE. Varahkhedi is now called Barkheda. A site there has revealed a human skeleton dated to the 2nd millennium BCE. A new destination added to my list. Image
#MPtrail continues with a new #HiddenHeritage story in @TOIBhopalNews today. On the Sankaji hi chhatri, near #Bihar, #Rajgarh. Date estimated at 16th-17th century CE, though to me it seemed later. Inputs welcome. Image
The Sankaji ki chhatri, #Rajgarh, has over a hundred carved panels at its base. Here are four of them. ImageImageImageImage
#MPTrail: The latest #HiddenHeritage story in @TOIBhopalNews on a pillared structure in #Bihar vil, #Rajgarh. Spotted it first in a pic & was amazed at its likeness to a Greek structure. Part of a lost temple complex. In front is a dargah which completes the story. Image
Will share some pics of baolis (stepwells) seen in MP over time. These from a place called Mor Pipli, #Rajgarh dist. ImageImageImage
Wonderful to see an old stepwell equipped with modern equipment and still in use. In the fields close to Lalgarh vil, #Rajgarh dist, #MPtrail. ImageImageImage

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More from @Hiddenheritage

Aug 26, 2020
Been asked what fascinates me abt #Chanderi. More than the fort, baolis, tombs & mosques, Jain rock cut sites & ancient rock art, perhaps what draws me here is the fact that heritage is everywhere in Chanderi. Like this grp of lost temples at Sitamarhi ImageImageImageImage
Spotted in a field outside #Chanderi. Was this structure a shrine or was it part of a walled complex housing a now-lost shrine? It has fragments of icons kept within which probably came from another structure. ImageImageImage
Some yrs ago, while wandering through the area outside #Chanderi, bumped into a sadhu. This person didn't say a word, just kept pointing in a certain direction and off I went... Image
Read 18 tweets
Jun 14, 2020
Beginning a thread on some less-known temples of #Gujarat. These pics are of a grp of 7th century CE temples, Maitraka dynasty, Bhanasara vil, #Junagarh. Lie a short drive frm the coast, on the road that connects #Mangrol to #Porbandar.
A giant stepwell, with four entrances, outskirts of Chobari vil, #Surendranagar, #Gujarat. But perhaps more shrine than stepwell, going by its ornate iconography, including a 12-13th century CE Shesasayi Vishnu. A story I did on this once: timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/ahmedabad…
At Miyani vil, close to #Porbandar, a medieval gateway leads to two 13th century CE temples. One of these, called the Neelkanth Mahadev, remains in worship, despite being in bad shape. #Gujarat
Read 4 tweets
May 23, 2020
Rajgir, #Bihar, once the capital of a powerful kingdom - a kingdom that grew into an empire straddling much of the subcontinent. Today, it is a second-rate town even in its state. But a town dotted with heritage, such as this stupa dated to the 4th-5th centuries BCE.
A pity that the heritage of #Ragjir, #Bihar has been allowed to gently decay sans restoration. This is the shrine of Mani Naga, dated to 4th-6th centuries CE, Gupta period. Now called Maniyar Math, its focal point is a stupa-like circular structure with a hollow core.
Structure called Jarasandh-ka-akhara, #Rajgir, #Bihar. Date unknown. A feature common to many structures here is an elevated platform. There is a site called Jarasandh-ka-teela, in Haryana, a partially excavated stupa site. Not sure of the latter's connection to Jarasandh though.
Read 7 tweets
Jan 25, 2020
#Karnatakatrail: Dusk on a Dec evening found me exploring the Bahmani tomb complex at a village called Holkonda, north of Gulbarga. Structures here being swallowed by the vegetation. ImageImageImage
#Karnatakatrail: The fort at Gulbarga, being gradually swallowed by vegetation. Rusting cannons, crumbling walls. A difficult task for the resource-strapped ASI. ImageImageImageImage
#Karnatakatrail: Unlike neighbouring #Bijapur where stepwells, pleasure pavilions have survived, Gulbarga is dotted with tombs, which are literally everywhere. Like ghosts of a forgotten past! This huge structure looms up in a residential area called Santraswadi. Image
Read 6 tweets
Jan 23, 2020
#Chanderifauna: Some yrs ago, on a cold Dec morning in #Chanderi - my fav heritage destination - I was woken by a persistent knocking on the window. It turned out to be this bird, shot through the frosted glass. Perhaps it was urging me to get up and begin exploring. Image
@MPTourism #Chanderifauna: Spotted this bird - a woodpecker I think - perched nr #Chanderi fort, lost in thought. Was black & white ever as striking as this? Image
@MPTourism #Chanderifauna: Butterflies aren't always perfect, some are frayed, like this one I spotted in the #Jain temple complex in Budhi Chanderi. Image
Read 7 tweets
Jan 7, 2020
An interesting recent addition to the collection, a book that plunges into the historical linkages of a mammoth epic. The connections are perhaps easier to make as I have visited most of the excavated sites mentioned, esp Kaushambi. Image
More recent additions, these from the world book fair, in Delhi. A massive 3-volume listing of #hiddenheritage monuments in #Odisha. Amazed that the govt's publications division was giving this set away at a throwaway price. Image
More from the book fair: the memoirs of Britain's best known WW II commander and a book on personal anecdotes from the war. Image
Read 9 tweets

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