یارڑے دا سانوں ستھرچنگا بھٹھ کھیڑیاں دا رہنا
متر پیارے نوں حال مریداں دا کہنا
many are the reasons of my love for this wonderful community called Sikhs
their simple & carefree manners
hilarious Sardar jokes and the way they laugh on their own jests
simple beats & suchal vocals causing my blood to stir
and their melodious & stunningly insightful Gurbanis
Our journey, dear reader starts at Gurdwara Janam Asthan in Nankana Sahib
the site of the parental home of Guru Nanak at a place that once was known as Rai Bhoi Ki Talvandi
on-site attractions include a well that has been preserved from the days of the founding Guru
then there's a monument tree, the 'shaheedi asthan' commemorating the martyrdom of Sardar Lachman Singh along with a group of around 200 Sikhs by the hands of Mahants occupying the Gurdwara during the British Raj in Punjab
Next comes the gurdwara to commemorate the death of the founding Guru
This in fact is the first ever gurdwara built by Guru Nanak himself
Kartarpur Sahib was built on the banks of River Ravi near Narowal in Punjab in the year 1521 CE, shortly after the Fourth Udasi of Guru Nanak
Kartarpur Sahib bears two burial sites
a Muslim grave where one half of the Guru Nanak's shawl was buried in line with Muslim rites
a Smadh where the other half of the shawl was cremated as per Hindu / Sikh faith
and this, dear reader, is based on an interesting lore
بانوقدسیہ سےملاقات
ایک پرانی یاد ـ ان کی سالگرہ پر
ــــــ
۱۹۸۴میں پاکستان ٹیلیویژن کی بیسویں سالگرہ کی تقریب میں غزالہ قریشی کےسوال کےجواب میں بانوآپانےکہاتھا
’میں اب تصوف کےبھی زیادہ قریب ہوں اورقبرستان کےبھی اب مجھے اسی کےمتعلق لکھناہے‘
اس میں انہوں نے آدھی بات درست کہی تھی
بہت بعد کا ذکرہے غالباً ایک انفرادی انٹرویو میں سوال کےجواب میں ان کاکہنا تھا کہ مجھ سےدنیا کےبارےمیں سوال کریں تو جواب دوں، مرد کی ذات عارفِ مولاہےوہ آپکواللہ تک پہنچنےکاکوئ راستہ بتائےتوبتائے
ایک بظاہر سادہ لوح خاتون لکھاری سے جب وہ عارفِ دنیا ہونےکانعرہ لگارہی ہواحتیاط لازم ہے
ہمارےکمانڈنگ آفیسر لیفٹیننٹ کرنل ریٹائرڈ ارشد بھٹی کوگلہ تھاکہ میں لوگوں سےملنےکےلیےان کےمرنےکاانتظارکرتاہوں
اس سنہری دوپہرماڈل ٹاؤن کےقبرستان میں اشفاق احمدسےملاقات ادھوری رہنی تھی جب تک اشفاق احمد کوبیا اورخودکوبئے کا گھونسلا کہنےوالی بانوآپا سے داستان سرائےمیں ملاقات نہ ہوجاتی
A Short Story from Sialkot
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Kaun ho?
Musalman hun
Woh mujhey pata hey, Unit konsi hey?
Mein Pakistan ka Sipahi hun
Apna hathyar neechay daal dou aur apnay saathyon se bhi kaho hathyar daal dein
Jab tak jaan hey, Pakistan ke liey larunga!
then he sprinted and a gunshot fired
It was 0600 on 8 Sep of 1965 when Indian 1st Armoured Division had crossed the border advancing towards Bhagowal-Philoura homing on to Chawinda
At 0800, 17 Poona Horse advancing on the eastern axis met the first Pakistani elements
The soldiers of D Company of 2 Punjab Regiment
Regimental History of Poona Horse records Maj N S Cheema's conversation with the exuberant Pakistani soldier with an innate admiration
It records the location as Shadipur and the soldier as a Havildar
As he sprinted to join his mates he was promptly shot & the location shelled
Second Battalion The Sikh Regiment
Raja Litta Raja Ditta
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With Gibraltar infiltration tackled India decided to push and attack Bedori Bulge on Cease Fire Line dominating Uri Poonch road
'Raja' was a formidable height south of bulge
An attack on this ridge had already failed
Lt Col Khanna to his Brigade Commander, '2 Sikh will give you Raja'
On ni 5/6 Sep, his unit crossed Forward Assembly Area, twin trees named Bhai Bhai at 0300
Later into the day, at Bhai Bhai trees, Hav Ujagar Singh will hand over lifeless body of the Colonel to Battalion Hav Maj
Raja was a formidable height and Col Khanna decided to go three company up
Everything that could go wrong went wrong that night Time of attack delayed to almost first light
Artillery rounds at max range fell short of objective & assault engineers carried nothing to clear the wire
Heroine of the City Legend
Anarkali of Lahore
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A little down south from where The Mall leaves Lower Mall, in the backdrop of Anarkali bazar is an octagonal building with a dome
Plastered in plain white (when I visited back in 2008) it did not appear to be a Mughal era edifice
Tomb of Anarkali, "Pomegranate Bud" of Akbar's darbar within the confines of Punjab Civil Secretariat was an unexpected find
In a place cluttered with archival records there was no grave, but a marble sarcophagus tucked to a side
we, dear reader, will come back to it in a moment
I visited the place having watched Shoaib Mansoor's Supreme Ishq-2 eloquently sung by Shabnam Majeed
The building lost its Mughal grandeur when the British plastered and lime painted it white converting the place into a church
this short clip narrates these transitions overtime
*City Secret*
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Maharaja's Bloodline
A Queen's Grave on Jail Road
A Princess' Collection
and other stories
Where Jail Road meets Zafar Ali road, there in Gulberg Christian Graveyard is a tombstone in three languages
English, Urdu and Persian
A princess rests here in peace
Bamba Sofia Jindan, later Bamba Sutherland was the eldest daughter of Duleep Singh, the youngest son of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, Sher e Punjab
Outliving all her siblings, she died on Mar 10, 1957 at Lahore and was buried in Gulberg Christian Graveyard
We have more to our story
A little south west of Thetford on the fringes of County of Suffolk, in the cemetery of Elveden Estate once owned by Duleep Singh C.C.S.I. our exiled Maharaja of Lahore now rests in peace with his wife Maharanee Bamba and younger son Edward
He breathed his last on Oct 22, 1893
The Hidden Gem of Masti Gate
Maryam Zamani Mosque
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South-East of Lahore Fort a tiny street leads to Moti Bazar, here once stood Masti Gate
Kanahya Lal tells it's named after Masti Baloch, the for-life guard at the gate
Syed Latif differs, it's a used up form of Masjidi Gate
If we keep our heading, upon reaching Moti Bazar chowk just where the grand Akbari Gate of Lahore Fort appears on the right, there's an easy to miss entrance to what appears to be a mosque
This low profile entrance hides within its confines a gem
The Mother of all Mosques
A Persian inscription on the entrance tells us that the building was completed "under the auspices of His Majesty" and that "The founder of the edifice, the place of salvation, is Queen Maryam Zamani"
We also deduce the date of construction from the couplet 1023 AH i.e. 1614 CE