Which is something we don't talk much about, but boy howdy do we exploit.
There's internal shame, but there's also what I think of as "shame-baiting"--content that's designed specifically to invoke shame in other creatives.
Critique, advice, support, these are all connected. But they can be flavored with shame.
Shame, as an emotion, is incredibly potent. And many people turn their own internalized shame outward.
For some people it works. At least temporarily. But I don't think it's sustainable.
I've been a lifelong marketer my whole career, and click bait has warped our senses.
We're totally okay with emotional manipulation, playing to people's fears and darkest shame.
It's a dangerous game. It's damaging. It's ultimately very, very shitty.
But the truth is NO ONE HAS IT ALL TOGETHER.
There is no end state. I don't even believe in "adulthood" anymore, really. Every industry I've ever worked in has been nothing but tied together with candy floss at worst and shoe strings at best.
The people who espouse a perfect end state are truly the most insecure.
We need to be more vulnerable, more transparent. Because, friends, creatives are burning out.
Our culture and current mode of shame and consumption is smothering voices that need to be heard.
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#Velvet may bring to mind 1970s couches, or your 90s goth stage, but that's a long way from its luxurious roots.
So let's brave the Black Plague, the cold, and questionable fashion choices together, in the name of this truly royal fabric.
2 - As with many fabrics, there is debate as to where velvet began. Some say China, others say Egypt & others point to the Middle East.
What they can agree on is that it’s a pain in the ass to make and $$$$$ AF. Original velvet was silk, too.
3 - Velvet is a pile fabric, which means it relies on lots of sharp objects & a touch of violence for production.
Yup! Velvet’s pile yarn is on the warp direction & must be cut on the loom or, in face-to-face methods--slicing down the middle to create two mirror-like textiles.
2 - The word itself comes from a Vulgar Latin derivation, from the word “laceum" (a noose or a snare). And lace has ensnared many since it came upon the scene in the late 15th C.
Flemish lace, in particular, was prized for its purity, softness, & quality of the linen grown.
3 - Lace is not a fabric, per se, but what’s called a “decorate openwork web”. In this way it’s more related to crochet and knitting & arguably has its roots in net-making.
Many of these webs can be combined in a variety of designs, densities & motifs to create layers.
This fabric goes beyond musicals, creepy Victorian wallpaper & antique furniture. Let's follow the thread across the globe.
2 - Damask is a reversible figured fabric. It's also flat, yet has complex designs: this makes it versatile & ideal for catching light.
It isn't, as the name suggests (via the French), from Damascus at all: it's from China and was originally made solely of silk.
3 - Damask rose to popularity during the Sui and Tang dynasties alongside the major explosion in silk fabric making (particularly for the ruling and aristocratic classes).
Advances in loom technology are to account the appearance of damask in the first place.
This pattern probably brings to mind highlanders, private schools, & grunge music. But there's a lot more to it.
To understand tartan, we’ve got to go back further than you think. Back to Iron Age and to MUMMIES!
2 - Before mummies however, disclaimers:
I LIKE TARTAN. It makes me happy. It's beautiful.
ALSO, people have VERY STRONG FEELINGS about tartan/plaid. There is a great deal of controversy. I’m here to share what I’ve learned, and reiterate I am a fan, not an authority.
3 - Tartan is a kind of twill weave, and twill is one of the oldest woven fabrics known to man. But due to its organic nature (often plant-based), residual cloth is almost unheard of.
We knew of some examples in Halstatt people in Iron Age bogs that were tartan-like.
1 - So! Chintz. You've probably heard the term "chintzy" and you're thinking 1980s upholstery or prom dresses with puffy sleeves. And you're right. Sort of.
We have George Eliot to thank for the term, it turns out. But this fabric is far from European: it's from India.
2 - The name comes from the Hindi word "chint" -- which means "spotted" & is a kind of calico. It was produced on cotton & printed with wood blocks or sometimes painted by hand. Some early chintz even had a glaze on it to stiffen the material (ideal for upholstery).
3 - Some say that chinz rose to popularity in India due to Babur, the first Moghul emperor who was purported to love gardens, flowers, and nature. It was used in tapestries and furniture, & often featured red dye from dyer's madder (Rubia tinctorum) which is in the coffee family.
So. Codpieces are the kind of thing that, if I wrote into a fantasy novel, people would probably complain a great deal about in reviews, yet are 100% historical.
"Cod" being slang for a gentleman's dangly bits, and piece, because, obvs. See Hank 8 by Holbein Jr, below
1/?
To understand this phallic embellishment, we need to understand that trousers were hose--i.e. really long socks. Pants, as such, didn't exist.