In some churchyards you might discover these black, bulbous balls growing on trees.
They’re known as King Alfred cakes, cramp balls or coal fungus… because a king possibly burnt some buns in the 9th century, they warded off cramp and because they’re good firelighters.
The nickname King Alfred cakes comes from the legend of how, in a bid to escape the Vikings, King Alfred fled to the Somerset Levels, where a peasant woman gave him refuge.
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Unaware of his majesty, the woman tasked Alfred with keeping an eye on some buns as they baked. Alfred was a bit preoccupied, forgot about the buns… and they burnt!
🖼: King Alfred burning the cakes, Sir David Wilkie, 1806
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It’s not a far stretch to see these black botryoidal fungi as charred cakes. Tho, it’s uncertain whether there’s any truth in the burnt buns story, as the first written evidence for it dates to a hundred years after Alfred’s death.
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These fungal swellings are also known as cramp balls. In the Middle Ages, they were carried as charms to protect against cramp and fever.
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Perhaps most interesting, isthe fungus’s role in prehistory as a firelighter. An archaeological excavation of a 7,000-year-old settlement in Spain found remains of this ‘coal fungus’, which was used as kindling.
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The botanical name for these prehistoric protuberances is Daldinia concentrica. It is a saprotroph – that is, it lives off dead and decaying wood. When cut open, the silvery black interior is formed of concentric rings.
📸: björk s...
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Britain was last invaded was 1797. It was February. 1,400 French soldiers under the command of American Col. William Tate landed on the coast at Carreg Wastad, Pembrokeshire. The invaders sacked the nearby church of St Gywndaf, Llanwnda, home to a 1620s Welsh bible.
What exactly happened to the bible at that time is open to debate, but it bears evidence that it has been pulled apart with considerable force. Some believe French soldiers burned pages to keep warm, others suggest its pages were used as toilet paper…
📸: Llywelyn2000
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The Battle of Fishguard only lasted a few days. But the bible, one of the oldest in Wales, disappeared for centuries. That is, until it was discovered in the 1990s in a bin liner in the church. Its importance was realised, and it was placed in a display case in the church.
Sitting in isolation on a knoll in rolling open countryside is St Lawrence’s, Hutton Bonville. It closed in 2007 and has lain empty since then. A picture of timeless, relentless melancholy.
Last October, we took this little church into our care.
St Lawrence’s is a small medieval church that was much altered in the 18th and 19th centuries.
The story of this Yorkshire church is told in its stonework: the variety of colour, tooling, lichen, carving, joints … and of course, cracks.
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In this location, the church really only makes sense in relation to Hutton Bonville Hall, which was demolished in 1962. The only physical neighbour this church now has are the Hall’s two abandoned 18th-century gate piers, swathed in nettles and cow parsley.
Llangatwg Feibion Afel, in a little valley north-west of Monmouth, is one of Monmouthshire’s most remote churches. As you approach from a lane through fields, you might think you’ve discovered a lost medieval castle.
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But in the early medieval period, St Cadoc's was a 'mother' church or 'clas' church at the centre of a large community, and one of the most important churches in the area.
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An early charter shows that Llangatwg Feibion Afel’s daughter churches included:
Llanllwyd, Llanfaenor, St Maughan’s, St Thomas of Newcastle, and St Thomas of Panrox.
But where are these churches now? (and where on earth was 'Panrox'?)
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In splendid isolation on the Llyn Peninsula, St Mary’s, Penllech overlooks the Irish Sea. A church has been here for over 800 years, serving generations of farming communities.
Its interior, where walls and woodwork are painted light grey, radiates simple beauty.
Mentioned in the Norwich Valuation of 1254, the church is medieval in origin; however, the font is the only substantial survivor of this age. It’s a roughly hewn basin of brown stone, painted white on the inner face, and sunk into the shaft beneath.
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Most of what you see today is a rebuilding in 1840 by Samuel Jones. These rows of timber trusses, with their splayed shoulders, have an almost industrial feel. The closely spaced rafters almost resemble corrugated metal sheeting and lend a sort of warehouse vibe.
#OTD in 1913, William Manning, William Kitchen and Frank Smith were charged with playing Pitch and Toss with six halfpennies on the tow-path near Boveney church, Buckinghamshire.
The men were bored, the fish weren’t biting, and they wanted to pass the time...
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In this game, players take turns throwing a coin against a wall with the aim of landing closest to the wall. Known by many other names around Britain, incl. Pigeon Toss, Penny Up, and Nippy, it was a favourite children's game, and was even played by children in Ancient Greece. 2/
Pitch and Toss was a popular gambling game among adults too. But the three men at Boveney, who had been caught throwing their coins in a public place on a Sunday afternoon, insisted that they were simply playing to pass the time because they hadn't caught any fish.
Deep in the Black Mountains is an ancient oval churchyard. It encloses a church that has clung to the mountain for over 800 yrs. Homeless headstones form a jagged line-up outside. A sundial has told the time since 1686. Inside, an oxblood rood screen survives against the odds. 1/
This veranda-style screen dominates the interior. It was carved in the 14th century and painted with an ox’s blood. The red background is peppered with stencilled white roses.
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In the centre, a cross is picked out in bare wood. It’s the ghostly reminder of the crucifix that was lost from here during the Reformation.