Little Ruicheng 芮城 lies north of the Yellow River, amid loess plateaux and a painfully long drive from nearest train station.
But a worthwhile trek is met by Daoist Yongle Palace 永乐宫, one of China’s most rewarding temples… 1/
Eagle eyed will tell from the gatehouse the temple is old - roof style with Chiwen dragons is classic Yuan, built shortly after Kublai’s invasion of China.
Incredibly, including gatehouse, Yonglegong has *four* buildings of this pedigree - unparalleled.
But look inside…. 2/4
…where this Daoist landmark truly blew my mind is its almost totally intact interiors.
Particularly the two main halls are smothered in frescoes (based on Tang archetypes), with fully painted caisson ceilings and sunken zaojing 藻井 inverted domes.
What more can I say? 3/4
The temple has another amazing secret - for in the late 50s it was painstakingly moved, piece by piece, from a site ~50km lower down the Yellow River valley to build the Sanxiamen reservoir.
Astonishing craftwork going into the operation is documented at an on-site museum. 4/4
PS just to south - walls of a city of the state of Wei 魏国; and a Song pagoda.
Elsewhere Ruicheng has a famed Song building dedicated to its city god 城隍庙, but closed at time of visiting; and I learn later from database @xujnx shared also a small Tang shrine.
Next time!
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With the help of an acquaintance, Mr Li, who lends his Landcruiser for the cause, we set out deep into the south Shanxi countryside on the trail of some magnificent temples with their share of spectacular secrets.
Come join for a long thread 🧵… 1/11
Our first stop is Youxian Temple 游仙寺 south of Gaoping.
Here the main ‘Pilu’ hall 毗卢殿, built in 970, gives a classic Song visage - elegant eaves supported by complex beams, with echoes of paint still flecked on the timber work. 2/11
To the east is isolated Chongming Temple 崇明寺, the oldest temple I’d set out to see with its central Buddha hall 中佛殿 built in 970.
Soaring eaves like unfolding wings, gorgeous timberwork propping them up, and a nice Ming rear hall to boot.
Xi’an - or Chang’an 长安, ‘Everlasting Peace’. One of China’s most evocative ancient cities.
Miles of pristine walls and moat stretch around ancient streets full of storied temples and pagodas deeply resonant with China’s history. 1/11
Today’s walled city (black) is a shadow of its glory as the Tang’s great 7th century capital (red).
36km of crenelated walls surrounded one of the world’s biggest cities. In north, now ruined Daming palace 大明宫 nourished famed emperors.
But this wasn’t the start... 2/11
In 200 BCE Liu Bang, the first Han Emperor, relocated the seat of his capital.
Moving from the ancient heart of Chinese civilisation - the Zhou capital near present Luoyang, Henan - he chose a new site, near the Qin Shihuang’s first unified capital, NW of present Xi’an. 3/11
At long last I made it: a trip into the remote Gansu countryside to track down the town of Liqian 骊靬, to which is attached the strangest of stories: that it was founded by the lost legionnaires of Crassus, whose descendants still till the local countryside. Thread. 1/13
After defeat at the Battle of Carrhae in 53BC and death at Parthian hands, a large chunk of the Roman triumvir Crassus’ legionaries just disappear - prisoners taken to Parthian land 2/13
References in Pliny and Horace suggest they were relocated to Merv (now Turkmenistan) as slave labour building city walls, and perhaps deployed as border guards (Parthian practice).
All well and good. Until someone spotted a reference in Chinese imperial histories... 3/13