Started the day walking to the centre through the "Women's Market".
The old baths is one of the mains sights, now a historical museum.
A reminder of the "thermal" past are the fountains of hot spring water, where people go to fill their bottles.
☪️ Banya Bashi Mosque is just next door to the old baths, right in the centre of the city.
Reminded me to the cute little mosques of Bosnia. Very colourful inside.
Built in 1566, it's the only remaining mosque of Sofia.
Independence sq. or "Largo" was the centre of power of the People's Republic of Bulgaria, with the main building hosting the HQ of the communist party. Still today, hosts several ministerial offices.
It's a fine example of Socialist Classicism architecture (or Stalinist style).
Mix of architectural styles in the centre of Sofia.
Last pic is the cute little "Russian Church" that was built after the liberation of Bulgaria, where a mosque used to stand. It was and is used by the Russian community of Sofia.
☦️ Alexander Nevski Cathedral, it's the largest *finished* orthodox church of the Balkans (looking at you Beograd and București 😒).
The inside is really impressive, but it was just too dark to make any good pics.
We continue the walk around the centre of Sofia.
Here a ministry that still maintains the esthetics of "previous times", with the combo of brutalist building + a full façade mural.
The Monument to the Soviet Army. It was built in 1954, and as everywhere in the former Eastern bloc, there are endless debates on what to do with it.
It's currently a popular place for young people, skaters, etc to meet.
Some more brutalist bits of Sofia.
Sofia theatre and a mural sculpture in one of many underpasses of the city.
Национален Дворец на Културата
National Palace of Culture
A brutalist block built in the early 80s.
🚋 Trams of Sofia
🚇 Metro in Sofia.
From the super new Metro Line 3, opened in 2020… to one of the still-unrefurbished old units in Line 1, with their iconic soviet look.
Although compared to other metros in Eastern Europe, Sofia Metro is pretty new, opened only in 1998.
And after dinner at a local restaurant, time to get ready for our #NightTrain 🚃🛌🌛
We're traveling to Varna on Б (fast) 3637 train. Two trains depart for Varna every night, but ours, with a slightly longer route via Karlovo, gives us 20 minutes more of sleep 😁
Just some minutes before departure of Б 3637 #NightTrain Sofia-Varna, made up of 4 seated & 2 sleeper cars
I always feel like there's a special ambience before the departure of a night train. As if it was a bit more of and adventure than a day train. Old-school, yet comfortable
Compulsory pre-departure pic 😄
The sleeping cars are very comfortable. They're fairly new, made in Turkey in 2012.
Compared to other sleeper trains, the compartments felt slightly larger.
A ticket in a solo compartment (бизнес класа) for the Sofia - Varna trip costs slightly under 25 €.
At 7:00, spot on time, we arrive at Varna station.
It's raining way too much to go out, so for the moment is time for warm freshly made баница and coffee from a machine, as we admire the railway scene.
The girl at the bakery of the station spoke really good Spanish, which surprised us a lot, although she seemed even more surprised than us, of finding two young foreign tourists at 7:10 of a Sunday in the Varna train station.
She literally asked "what are you doing here?" 😂
On another sidenote, @JoanMerinals and I agreed that the national icon of Bulgaria should be the street coffee machine. Expect a little mini thread (when I finish this one) with coffee machines in random locations.
After dealing with the local bus website in Bulgarian, we arrived to the first sight we wanted to visit in Varna.
The very impressive "Monument of the Bulgarian - Soviet Friendship" 🚩🇧🇬, built in the late 70s.
The monument is located on top of a hill, and is reached after climbing 305 steps.
The "friendship monument" shows rather well the power dynamics of the era when it was built. Fierce looking male soviet soldiers, meeting Bulgarian women.
I'd represent "friendship" differently.
It's nevertheless an impressive monument.
And from the top of the hill you get some beautiful views of the city and the Black Sea.
◾ Черно Море, Варна, България
🌊 Black Sea, Varna, Bulgaria
🌊⛱️☕ Кафе Латте by the Black Sea
🍂 Autumn in Varna
Old style, new brand.
A very 80s socialist looking shop in central Varna.
After a walk around town, the seaside, and lunch, it was time to get back to the station to continue our trip.
We had a bit of #Bahnzeit at Централна ЖП Гара Варна as we waited for our train bound to Sofia.
Ready to depart on train Б 2614 Varna - Sofia. We will be traveling up to Gorna Oryahovitsa where will connect to another train to Veliko Tarnovo.
The train is a beautiful old-school loco hauled composition, with 1 first class and 4 second class cars. All #FensterAuf obviously.
🎥🚞 Departure of train Б 2614 from Централна ЖП Гара Варна.
📸 Railway shots as we passed by Varna depot. Once again, old, old but refurbished, and new.
Ready to depart on МБВ 465 Горна Оряховица - Димитровград.
From early June to early October, this "international train" will get an extra car attached at the end, a TCDD 🇹🇷 sleeper car making the București Nord - Istanbul route.
For us it was just a domestic Международен train.
🎥🚞 Best seat view en route between Gorna Oryahovitsa and Veliko Tarnovo.
A little spoiler of the beautiful Veliko Tarnovo from the train window.
Arrival into Veliko Tarnovo, right in the #GoldenHour.
Departure of МБВ 465 from Veliko Tarnovo, as it begins its climb up the Balkan Mountains towards Dimitrovgrad.
The train is pulled by a rather old, yet very sturdy, series 44 loco, built by Škoda in 1979.
Veliko Tarnovo is known as the "City of Tsars", since it was the medieval capital of Bulgaria. For me, it was one of the surprises of the trip.
We start the visit with some panoramic views from the Monument to Assen dynasty, located right in the middle of the Yantra river bend.
Some more pics of the monument itself.
Built in 1985 to make the anniversary of the rise of this dynasty, it features similar characteristics to other "historical monuments" built during the last years of communism in Bulgaria.
Starting by the Metro. Line 1 opened in 1926 and, uniquely, it uses Iberian gauge tracks. There's even a connection to the adif/renfe network near Plaça Catalunya.
Renfe being renfe means... check-in before boarding 🤷🏻♂️
Also, Bilbao must be one the largest cities in Europe with the worst long distance rail service. Tell me about another place in Europe with a population of +1M in the metro area that only gets 4 trains per day...
Agur Bilbo 👋🏼
(These views have expiry date. The whole Abando station will soon be fully reconstructed for the arrival of high speed trains... and all platforms will be located on underground levels 😢)