The written history of Cambodia seems to begin in the Mekong Delta at the trading ports of Angkor Borei, Tak Eo, and its counterpart just over the Vietnamese border, Oc Eo.
Here, in the rainy season, a network of canals flood into a wide, sweet-water lagoon that strongly resembles the lagoon of Venice and which leaves the higher hills, like the early temple site of Phnom Da, as conical islands in the stream.
This lagoon became in the 1st century CE, the terminus for a trade route leading Eastwards to India, Persia & the Roman Red Sea ports & Westwards towards China. The Chinese called this area Funan; the Indians, Vyadhapura. We do not know what it was called by its own inhabitants
Chinese sources marvel at the exotic goods that were available here: "This place is famous for precious rarities from afar," wrote one Chinese trader: "Pearls, incense, drugs, elephant tusks, rhinoceros horn, tortoise shell, coral, lapis lazuli, parrots, kimgfishers & peacocks."
Excited by such descriptions, a French archaeologist named Louis Malleret set to work in the 1920s and found at Oc Eo a large town, centrally planned with a geometrical layout, and an extensive canal system dating from about the late fifth and early sixth centuries.
Malleret also found a whole museum-full of treasures to match these descriptions, and which also seemed to hold a clue as to how Indic culture, religion and languages first seaped into the region.
In the lower layers, Malleret found many Indian trade goods but no signs of Indic religions: there were shards of Indian terracotta containing writing in the Indian Brahmi script, a S Indian iron dagger and glass beads....
Then, rather later, a lingam & several small plaques with Hindu deities were found, as well as Roman coins of Antonius Pius, Achmaenid Persian effigies, statues of Poseidon & Pan, even a bronze of Maximin the Goth that seem to have arrived through the trade of Indian middlemen.
A few Han mirrors indicated connections with China, but what was fascinating was that it was the links with India- far more distant than China, geographically, proved far more common and significant.
In particular, it was on the hill of Phnom Da that were found some of the earliest Hindu and Buddhist shrines in this region.
In these shrines were Buddhas that stiffly echoed the stance of those found at Gupta Sarnath...
Other Buddhas seemed to echo those at Amaravati on the Andhra coast, and their close cousins at Anuradhapura in north west Sri Lanka.
By the 6th and 7th century, Phnom Da was also home to major shrines to Vishnu
There were also shrines to Harihara...
By the 7thC all these sculptures were being made in a new and very fine Khmer style, quite distinct from anything seen in India.
Soon a script, based on Pallava grantha, was in widespread use. So too was an origin story also based on imported Pallava myths. Funan is said to have been founded by a South Indian Brahmin named Kaudinya who arrived with a javelin given to him by Asvatthaman, son of Drona.
A local princess, the daughter of the local Naga king named Soma, paddled out to meet him and Kaundinya shot an arrow into her boat, frightening the princess into marrying him.
Before the marriage, Kaundinya gave her clothes to wear, and in exchange her father, the dragon king, “enlarged the possessions of his son-in-law by drinking up the water that covered the country. He later built them a capital, and changed the name of the country to ‘Kambuja.’
Together these two gave birth to a royal Khmer line of Funan. Later on, many Cambodian Kings would trace their ancestry to this mythical pair, who represented, among other things, a marriage between the sun and the moon, India and Cambodia.
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In 615CE, the same year sculptors in Afghanistan began work on the second Bamiyan Buddha & just as the Sui dynasty was collapsing in China, in the N Cambodian kingdom of Chenla a Shaivite monarch named Ishanavarman I began work on a capital called Ishanapura, the City of Shiva.
Ishanapura in time became by far the largest urban centre in the region. Today it is known as Sambor Prei Kuk.
The city was built on an impressive scale: the southern temple complex, one of three, measured 300 by 270 m. Sunken tanks were accessed by steps.
Today, many of the bricks temples Isanavarman constructed are now overgrown and returning to the forests that surround them
This inscription is arguably the oldest written document is the history of Southeast Asia and intriguingly, it starts with what seems to be an outrageous fib.
The inscription is one of seven carved on sacrificial Vedic yupa posts, which strongly resemble menhirs, erected by a King called Raja Rajendra Mulavarman around 400CE. Here the Mahabharat is invoked by the Raja who has made a sacrifice in the Kutei region of Borneo.
Mulavarman compares himself to Yudhistra of the Mahabharat and says he defeated his enemies and made them pay tax. He also claims to have brought many Shaivite Brahmins from India into his kingdom.
Prambanan is the 9thC royal temple complex of the Sanjayas of Mataram, situated immediately beneath the acropolis of their palace on the outskirts of modern Yogyakarta.
Its an extraordinary rich and sophisticated group of temples
Despite being overwhelmingly Shaivite in orientation,Prambanan contains one of the very earliest and most perfect representations in stone of the Ramayana, which, perhaps surprisingly, is more complete than any surviving cycle of similar date in India.
Candi Plaosan & Candi Sewu
Two exquisite complexes of mid 9thC Buddhist temples near Yogyakarta.
They were built by Sri Kahulunnan or Pramodhawarardhi, the daughter of Samaratungga, descendant of Sailendra Dynasty, and who was married to Rakai Pikatan of the Hindu Sanjaya dynasty.
The confluence of these two great Javanese dynasties produced these remarkable masterworks.
Borobudur, begun around 825, is the quite simply the largest Buddhist temple in the world. It is decorated with around 500 statues of Lord Buddha, arranged in terraces of decreasing size, as if on the sacred slopes of Mount Meru.
It was built possibly by the Sangramadha Nanjaya Sailendra dynasty of Mataram, Central Java, or maybe “charismatic religious leaders rather than kings.” For surprisingly there is no great temple or palace complex associated with it.
The only inscription associated with Borobudur dates from 842 and is from a woman who gave land to sustain it. For all the mystery, this is the climax of the ninth century golden age of Java, when so many remarkable monuments were built here, both Hindu and Buddhist.
Java’s earliest Hindu temple complex, built between 675 and 725, lies high on the Dieng Plateau, some three hours drive from Borobodur in the Highlands of Central Java.
Here, up amid the sulphur springs and occluded by plumes of sulphurous steam belching out of geysers within the rim of a still active volcano, is the sacred space known as '‘The Place of the Gods.”
The temples are all Shaivite, though on the Trimurti temple, Brahma and Vishnu are also depicted in some of the very earliest Hindu figure sculpture to survive from SE Asia.